Things to look out for when buying a used car

[chunky]

Found a pretty useful link for new used car byers
http://cars.uk.msn.com/Buyers_Guide/article.aspx?cp-documentid=474660

I'm probably going to purchase a car in the next year or so, so anyone got anything else to add?
Btw i see alot of cars for sale that dont have a road worthy certificate. What is it? Is it necessary?

[eg5civic]

Found a pretty useful link for new used car byers
http://cars.uk.msn.com/Buyers_Guide/article.aspx?cp-documentid=474660

I'm probably going to purchase a car in the next year or so, so anyone got anything else to add?
Btw i see alot of cars for sale that dont have a road worthy certificate. What is it? Is it necessary?

Thats the biggest load of bullshit

I'll post up one that was in autosalon or another mag when i find the article

as for road worthy cert

its a certificate to state the cars road worthy obviously.... without it you wont get it rego'd

cars are meant to be sold with em nowadays

Edit found the article

For used cars: They recommend the basics : ie brush up on the models available and different trim specs ect and whats usually wrong with them

Paint and Panel:Check for fading on roof/bonnet/bootlid, Chekc for any overspray anywher eon the car (accident repairs) make sure all panels line up

Rust:Occassionaly shows on lower of doors, door sills and guards. Check floor underbody beneath bonnet ect
Check Dodgy panels with a magnet, if its been in an accident/rusted badly and they have cut and fibreglassed the magnet wont stick

Interior:Look under seat covers as they may hide rips/tears/burns.
Check dash for fading/cracks as this means car was left int he sun alot. Check every buttona nd knob make sure it all works. make sure a/c and heater works. ensure seatbelts arent frayed/damaged

Electricals: Make sure all lightbulbs internal and external work. Turn on rear demister and place hand on rear glass. you should feel warmth

Engine:Look for signs of leak on lower block, gearbox and diff. Remove engine and tranny dipsticks look for dirty/burnt oil
Check condition of all engine wiring. Frayed = potential danger
Inspect fuel system for leaks at all joints - start at carby/injectors right back to fuel pump/tank
When engine is cold pull off rad cap and check condition of coolant, Should be greeny/reddish with a rusty tinge
Look for coolant seepage where head meets block. Also check for rough idling when you start the car if its EFI
Check Brake Master cylinder fluid levels as well as brake lines and calipers/drums for leaks
Depress the brake pedal and hold it... if it slowly goes down there may be a hydraulic system problem
Check all exhaust piping to see if its got holes in it or if its brittle... (do it before you start the car for gods sake)

Start the Engine: Start it while its cold.
Does it start immediately?
Is there a blast of smoke from the exhaust on cold start
Listen for loud rattling noises during first few seconds
Watch engine oil pressure light make sure it goes off after starting (few seconds after starting)

Tyres: Check for uneven tyre wear, may be an alignment problem
check for gutter rash, may lead to alignment problems

Steering: If the steering wheel is not in a central position while the wheels are straight ahead it may mean there is wear in the steering/suspension. (or misaligned)
Turn the wheel and see how much play before wheels move 2-3cms is normal
If possible jack car up and wiggle wheels, little play is ok, too much may mean sussy worn

Suspension: Push down hard on body and let it rise again. repeat to get a bouncing action then stop. Car should level out almost straightaway. If it continues to bounce shocks may be worn

Test Drive: They say spend at leats a half hour behind the wheel (bit long imo but eh)
- Noises: Listen for noises from engine, tranny, exhaust, diff, sussy as well as rattles and squeaks from doors or body

-Manual Gearbox:Gear shift should be smooth and quiet. On fast downshift listen for crunching or feeling of stickyness as this indicates worn synchro's
Usually third to second is the first to give the most trouble

-Clutch: Drive at steady speed, depress clutch and the release the pedal quickly- should feel like it grips again quickly with a real thump. If the cars slow to pick up speed clutch might be slipping (or u need to get a faster car :p)

-Auto Gearbox: Should swap gears smoothly and quietly, with changes going near unnoticed - should not be hunting up and down for gears

- Brakes: When braking hard no wheel should lock up before another (ie both front or both rears should lock) If it has abs press the brake hard and you should feel the pedal pulse and the wheels should lock but for no more than a few seconds

-Suspension: Too much bodyroll while cornering indicates the shocks are worn and need renewing

After the Drive:
Keep the engine running and listen for noises such as exhaust leaks ect Look for underbonnet smoek from oil fliier cap
Also inspect for any water oil and brake fluid leaks
Turn off engine, make sure it doesnt run or rattle
Sniff around for any petrol leaks and make sure engine isnt overheating

And thats about it.... That took ages to type... and it was note form lol

[cymax]

Don't think that applies to NSW. I know that Melbourne requires RWC. NSW requires pinkslip or blueslip depending on your condition.

[FASN8U]

one way to see if it hasnt been in a major accident , open the door and close it with minimal force it should go in smoothly and relatively easy. when your lookin at the car sus out the seller what kind of driver is he? is he braggin how quick it is blah blah

[eg5civic]

Yeah old ladies cars who ahve been first owners are usually best

and when u open and close the dorr as FASN8U said... my door drops ever so slightlky and makes a little clunk when shutting.. cause it was hit on the front guard/front of door

[mohdmanutd]

Yeah, just do some knocking, and if its a hollow sound, it may have been in an accident.

Also when taking the rad cap off, turn the car on, take it off, and rev the car up, and redline it for a bit, and see if any bubbles come up, if so, head gasket is going.

Look at the steering wheel, steering wheels with like, marks and a lot of wear and tear means the car has been through a lot, and if that doesn't match with how many kilometers is being said, then you know something fishy is up. Try looking for a car with clean exterior, interior and engine. If the interior is thrashed, car most likely wouldn't have been taken care of, and so engine probably in bad condition.

Check the brakes, if they are sink, spark plugs probably need replacing.

Logbooks and service reciepts are good.

If you are going to buy an EG, nearly 20 years old now, you should be looking for a car regulary serviced (thats when checking reciepts and logbooks to see if it has been). Other wise, you risk buying a lemon! and forking out a lot getting it fixed and buying parts to replace old parts.

IMO look for a clean car, don't rush. If you rush and buy a car for the sake of it, you will regret it badly! especially if your getting an old car. TAKE YOUR TIME, so i would say, start looking a few months before you actually have money to get it or whatever. That way you know whats on the market and can compare what you can get when you have got everything ready.


Wells that all i can think of atm, but yeah, will come back if anything comes up.

wooo PQ point

[Q_ball]

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47671&highlight=buying+guide

Search is your friend.

[chunky]

-___-
lol i tried searching but nothing
add that thread to the sticky
would have come in handy

[eg5civic]

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47671&highlight=buying+guide

Search is your friend.

I swear i just could of saved myself a half hour by linking that :(

Your fault Chunky!

[Q_ball]

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1960103#post1960103

Sticky updated.

If you feel theres a need to reopen this thread, let me know.
Otherwise, feel free to discuss the topic further in the first link that i provided.