Hubcentric wheel adaptor / spacers

[I heart the SSS]

Hey guys...

I'm looking at running soem Hubcentric spacers for my front and rear..

I really need that extra clearence due to the 17x9 inch rims..

Now, i've heard good things on Hubcentric spacers... much better and secure then cheap normal styled ones..

But, due to the wheels being 4x114, i'll need a hubcentric spacer that bolts onto a 4x100, but leaves 4x114 studs for the wheel to bolt onto.

pretty much a hubcentric spacer that also has a bigger stud pattern.

It's the same princble as a hubcentric spacer, so what do people thing about it?

Any ideas on where to get them?

Cheers

[dslt]

was just going to post up the same thing, lolz
try ebay..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4x100-25mm-Hubcentric-Wheel-Adapter-Spacer-Honda-Acura_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a1Q 7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQh ashZitem260298582585QQitemZ260298582585

[trism]

thought the rims were mutli fit?

[SHOGUNOVDDRK]

Should is the key word Matt

[mugenrr]

i dunno but maybe you can find blank ones?
then drill to 4x100...

[vinnY]

i think i've seen 4x114.3 converted to 5x114.3 but never 4x100 to 4x114.3
just remember to get good quality ones and the right nuts for the wheels, otherwise your wheels might be overtaking you shortly

[I heart the SSS]

Well i done my research and found out about a few things..

You require spacers that also have the right spigot for the application..

As the load of the tyre is placed on the center bore ring (sprigot) as well as the studs...

Here is a quote from another site which helps a lot.

http://www.planetsoarer.com/offset/studs.htm



My mate Gazza, recently had an "off" at the race track - but he's ok.

http://www.planetsoarer.com/offset/4129.jpg


The Before shot - note wheel is still on !

Gazza scored these 18 inch beauties for only $880 for all four - bargain! Multi fit inexpensive wheels are a bit heavy, relatively soft, come with 10 holes for studs (fit more cars this way) and have a large 70 mm centre hole (fit more cars see). Five of the wheel stud holes are 114.3mm and fit the Soarer - the other 5 holes are for other cars - this is called "multi-fit". "Multi-fit" is your guarantee that the wheels were not designed specifically for your car.

The Soarer, Toyota and Lexus cars come with a 60.06mm centre spigot to support the wheel - a 70 mm centre hole is big enough to go on any car - it's a "multi-fit" centre hole that slops around on the studs putting tremendous shear stress on the studs.

The wheels were fitted without a centre spigot (or is it spiggot?) ring to the wheel.



Motor vehicle manufacturers use a central location collar on the stub axle hub in order to accurately locate the wheel. The wheel collar diameter varies, depending on the make of vehicle.

Many replacement allow wheel manufacturers use an adapter (spigot ring) to vary the diameter of the locating hole. In this way, a particular wheel can, by changing the spigot ring, be used on a variety of vehicles.

The spigot is the bit in the centre of the hub that you rest the inside centre of the wheel on whilst aligning the studs and screwing back the wheel nuts. On generic after market wheels, the spigot hole inside the wheels is a lot bigger than the spigot on the car. So what you need to do in this case is fit spigot locating rings. These are just rings of aluminum or hard plastic, that fit over the spigot on your car and then have a proper fit with the spigot hole on the wheel. If you don't have the spigot taking all the weight of the car, chances are you'll break one or more studs when you drive the car hard or have to brake hard. Remember the wheel nuts are simply there to hold the wheel on, NOT support the weight of the car. Also, as there is nothing to centre the wheel, you'll notice the wheels go in and out of balance because as you drive around, they'll move around on the hub.

More information on offset and spigot rings see the offset page.

http://www.planetsoarer.com/offset/spigots.gif


Bingo! Three broken studs. The wheel vibrates, wobbles and the other studs work loose once some studs are sheared through. See the rusty ring around the middle? That is roughly where the spigot ring should go supporting the wheel on the hub. The studs cannot support the wheel force - they can only hold the wheel on the hub. Studs are one and half times weaker in shear than tension. Once a stud shears it places more load on the other studs. Usually the wheel wobbles nuts off before all the studs shear.

Once the wheel comes off first thing it does is wreck the guard, ouch!

http://www.planetsoarer.com/offset/4686.jpg

Carnage!! What a mess.

http://www.planetsoarer.com/offset/4688.jpg

With the wheel going off in the distance the car hits the deck and the brake disk grinds into the ground. When the disk hit the ground at high speed on the track it cracked as it's not designed as a wheel. Garry replaced both disks, and all studs.

http://www.planetsoarer.com/offset/5849.jpg

http://www.planetsoarer.com/offset/5851.jpg

And from the dude who posted the link.

Though that article says ...

"So what you need to do in this case is fit spigot locating rings. These are just rings of aluminum or hard plastic, that fit over the spigot on your car and then have a proper fit with the spigot hole on the wheel." ...

I would never use a plastic spigot ring on any of my cars.

The spigot ring is there both to transfer the weight of the car to the wheels via the spigot ring (instead of the studs), and also to ensure that the wheel is kept centred to the hub.

If you use a plastic spigot ring, there is the potential for play to develop (just like plastic and rubber bushes wear), whereas a metallic spigot ring of the correct grade of metal is going to be far more robust.

If I was going to use a set of multi-fit wheels on one of my cars, I'd get an engineer to machine up some high quality spigot rings - that way he can make sure all the clearances are correct, you know exactly what grade of metal has been used to make the spigot rings, and a high quality machined spigot ring which has been machined specifically for the clearances on your car is likely going to be a much better fit than an off the shelf spigot ring.

And of course with a high quality spigot ring, the wheel will be perfectly centred on the hub, which helps reduce vibration, makes sure that the only job the studs are doing is holding the wheels on (instead of the studs bearing the weight of the car) and will make everything last longer.

- Adam

[I heart the SSS]

ANOTHER QUOTE!

The studs are only designed to hold the wheel to the hub, with the hub supporting the weight of the car. The the circle cutout bit in the middle of the wheel is supposed to fit over the flange bit that sticks out in the middle of the studs.

You can see the bit I mean in this photo.
http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/5001/hubspindlevr0.jpg

Unless you can source or get a proper spacer machined up that has this bit, you are asking for trouble. Not to mention introducing bump-steering and stuffing up geometry.

Here is a proper spacer fitted. You can see how the wheel is still supported by the flange in the centre. Also the bolts aren't unnecessarily long, or too short for a proper hold on the nut. This is the way to go for a spacer.
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/1884/wheelspaceriu3.jpg


Here is the bad one. DON'T EVER DO THIS. Especially if you value your car and life. There is absolutely no support to prevent shear loading on the studs, which they weren't designed for, and WILL eventually crack and shear off. They omit the central flange and rely on the original hub, but if the spacer is too thick, you are relying on the studs alone, as seen below. Not good. On thinner spacers with large flanges, they can be used without much trouble. But once the wheel doesn't sit on the hub, it's crash city.
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/32/hubspacertn6.jpg

[vinnY]

yep always get ones that fit your hub and it should be okay
h&r make good ones but they are pricey and i don't think they do stud conversion types
i'm running h&r ones currently with extended arp studs

[SHOGUNOVDDRK]

lol Good shit Justin (on answering your own questions + adding info)

[BeEasy]

good read

[dudeling7]

good stuff yo posted man!

yeh what i did was brought my spacer to a machining shop and they measure my centre bore then machined the bore on my spacer so that it matches up.

and then get a hubcentric ring that fits your wheel to the spacer's hub.

so everything is nice and snug :)

[I heart the SSS]

:)

I willl look into these places.. How much where yours?

Cheers

[dudeling7]

i got mine from just jap, cant remember the brand but apparently they are made from 'forged' material lol.

they were about $150 for a pair.

[vinnY]

i got h&r ones, made to fit
pricey though, i got quoted $250-350/pair from the australian disty depending on which kit i wanted
tight fit though, i had some rust on the hub which i had to sand back because the spacer wouldn't fit with the rust on there :O

[dudeling7]

Yeah H&R ones are good stuff vinny

good strong material and made to fit, i was just cbf waiting for delivery and all that jazz from the states lol. but if you are willing to wait i would recommend these :)

[vinnY]

remember if you get slip on spacers, it's time to get extended studs too

arp ftw

[I heart the SSS]

;) cheers for that Vin.

I'll let you all know how I go with wheel fitment soon!