Help with brakes, Sussy and power stearing yooo

[schuebyTeG]

hey pplz
Im a noob and im wrecking my old 93 dc2
I searched and couldnt find much..

I plan on selling the car with engine in it and so i just want to get some major parts of it for indiviual sale :) I want to get the suspention out and the brakes off.

The brakes... Talking about the rear- Would you remove it as a whole package? Would you keep everthing on the control arm ? and it would it look somthing like this when you take it all out ?

http://s1d3.turboimagehost.com/t/1018991_DA9Integra_TrailingArm.jpg (http://www.turboimagehost.com/p/1018991/DA9Integra_TrailingArm.jpg.html)

Is it easy to do ?

For the front brakes, Would you take it out looking like this ?
http://s1d3.turboimagehost.com/t/1019003_front_brakes.jpg (http://www.turboimagehost.com/p/1019003/front_brakes.jpg.html)
So you have both control arms,disk,caliber and hub ? The hub being what the disk and arms are attached to ?

i think i might be abit stuffed. The tree hit the front left you see. The brake disk is broken, bottom control arm is bent and the ball joint ( back of the hub? ) is busted.
http://s1d3.turboimagehost.com/t/1018990_IMG_5794.jpg (http://www.turboimagehost.com/p/1018990/IMG_5794.jpg.html)
Is this front brake any good? The caliper and upper control arm are still good.I think its the hub that is broken.Would there be a market for these parts? cos selling only one front brake is useless :P

Another question :P

Getting the suspention out...
Are the Springs and shocks going to be one unit ? Front and back?Will i be able to get them out myself?

Cos i know if the car is sitting on the spring ( not a mcpherson strut), u cant release it youself or the presure will send the spring though you...

sorry about the rambling

Thanks alot :)

[Paul1985]

Yes you would do it like the above...

With the rear:
-handbrake cables disconnected from inside the car and the 10mm bolts removed that hold it to the car body.
-brake lines removed from the brake hose and the brake hose removed from the mounting point (remove the clip)
-1 x bolt holding it to the control arm
-2 x bolts holding the upper arm to the body
-2 x bolts holding the whole trailing arm to the body
-1 x bolt holding another arm to the body

All you need to do is be sure not to drop it all.. It's reasonably heavy. Make sure you have a lifting aid or someone to help hold it.

In the pic of the front brakes it includes:
-knuckle (aka spindle), this has the hub included with it
-upper control arm
-lower control arm
-disc
-caliper

[Paul1985]

You should have the car on stands to remove all this gear and have it somewhere you can access it with whatever you plan on removing the scrap body with as it wont be mobile after the sussy/brakes are out...

Remove the shocks/springs together.
They are easy to remove.. Just dont touch the middle nut on the top of the shocks...

Rear:
-remove the bolt from the shock -> LCA
-remove the 2 x 14mm nuts off from in the boot (may need to remove some carpet/cover)

Front:
-remove the brake lines mounting braket on the shocker.
-Remove the 14mm bolt from the fork (lower shock), i usually put a jack underneath the LCA just incase it has a little movement although it prob wont.
-Remove the 2 x 14mm nuts on the top of the shock tower in the eng. bay.

Its quiet simple.

[Paul1985]

Ok with that all said. You should download the helms manual off hondatech.com.au
You will need to sign up. There are other places on the web you can download them off too if you search.. It will go through step-by-step how to remove all these components correctly.

Many people ask questions which are easily covered in workshop manuals.

[jdm_b16a]

My advice is to get someone who knows what they are doing to help you. This is straightforward stuff but to someone who has never wrecked a car it is best to learn the first time - after that you'll be OK. What Paul says is right but it looks easy when written down. To do it, is another thing. You need the right tools, and it would be better if you had power tools.

Just my opinion of course. Good luck with it. If you were in Sydney I'd give you a hand but you're in BrisVegas! :(

Peter

[schuebyTeG]

Thanks alot Paul and Peter :D
You guys are great :P and it sure is a pitty you are in syd Peter :P

It sounds easy enough. Ive got a mechanic mate that can help me.

Just afew questions
By ' LCA ' u mean left control arm ?
Also what a helms manual ? :P

Ive got the PDF dc2 manual of hondatech, im sure there are some good drawings in that...

Also getting out the master brake cylinder and the booster ? they are needed to right ?
I read that a rear brake upgrade dosnt rly need an up graded master and booster as the back dosnt do much breaking ?

The master and booster looks pretty easy to get out....

I got another question for you guys :)
I want to get the power stearing rack and pump out....
If i was to take the rack and pump out , what would happen to my stearing ? ( as i only need 2 guide it onto and off a trailer )

Will the front wheels just become 'sloppy' and ill just physicaly kick them into line ?


thanks alot for your help. much appreciated ay

[Sir_vtec]

All this wont be easy to remove. Be sure to have all the tools required. 17mm, 14mm, 12mm, 10mm sockets and wrenches, knuckle separators ( looks like a pitch fork with two teeth i guess), hammer, grease, needle nose pliers. GET FLARE NUT WRENCHES. brake lines are fragile and WILL strip if not carefull with open end.

Also u ll need a friend to step on the brakes while u undo the axel nut. Undo do the notch on the bolt with a flat head screw driver and hammer in hand. To get the axel nut off u ll need a 2 foot breaker bar at least with a slip over pole for balance and leverage. All this needs to be done before the whole front assembley can be taken off.

Nice Paul. I cant rep you since i have already recently :(

[Paul1985]

LCA = Lower Control Arm.
Helms would be the Workshop Manual you downloaded. It is a US version of a haynes/gregorys manual with much more detail.

You do realise that once you remove the front and rear brakes/suspension you will have nowhere to mount wheels on your car?? So moving it will be very difficult. If its a complete bare shell it would be lighter making it a little less effort.

With the steering rack out you cant turn the wheels with the steering wheel at all, you could jack up the car a little or use some force to turn the front wheels, i've seen people pull the car to aid it in turning with a trolley jack under the rear end. If you do this, DO NOT be anywhere under the car at all, it could quiet easily slip off the jack.

Sounds as if it will be 100x easier if you do have a mate help you out. You will learn quiet a bit off stripping these parts.

Brake Booster and Master Cylinder: Remove the 2 x brake lines (with appropriate 10mm pipe wrench as Sir_vtec mentioned above), remove the cotter pin and brake pin from the brake pedal in the car and then remove the 4 x 12mm nuts from the inside firewall which hold the BB in. Now its as simple as removing it in the engine bay.

[Sir_vtec]

12mm deep sockets are required to remove the brake booster from the firewall inside the cabin.

[schuebyTeG]

Thanks guys.

Ill let you in on my plan and you can tell me if im crazy or not :P

I have the wreck under my house atm.

I would like to sell the engine and loom still in the car
1. it would be very hard to remove the engine ( hard to get a hoist ect in there)
2. I just want the shell gone ( dad wants it gone :P )

I assume the person when wants the engine wants it for a convertion and thus dosnt want the brakes ( they might ), suspension,sway bars,power stearing,shift linkage and possably not the gear box ( as it has a crack in it )

I plan on getting these items off it before it leaves my house. But obviously it cant be moved ( rolled onto and off a trailer ) without the suspension and control arms ( hope 2 remove with the brakes).

Hopfully i can find someone who is after mainly the engine and loom. I will move the car to their place and hopfully that afternoon remove the brakes and suspension ( at their place ) and leave it on stands for them :P

What ya think ? lol

atm im just finding out of the engine buyer will want the broken gear box or i will sell it to somone who wants to use it for a rebuld.

wish me luck? lol

thanks again for your advice

[90LAN]

why dont u just strip everything out of shell
and then call up tow truck that take shells away for free
it doesnt matter if it hasnt got wheels on it they just winch it up

[Paul1985]

why dont you try sell the engine now. for the right price and if someone wanted it bad enough im sure they would come around and remove it. I know i would if i wanted/needed one and it was a good price.

[string]

Don't let the shell go for free, if someone doesn't offer you cash for it, ring someone else. There's a reason people are so willing to come take it away, because it's free money.

[schuebyTeG]

update people.
Ive got a buyer for everything in the engine bay and the loom, they will take delivery of it all in the shell. ( will get it onto a car trailer, just like how we got it in )

I didnt rly want to try and get the motor out here. It is sitting under my house on uneven ground , hard to get hoist in and motor out.

The entire interior is striped and ill be attempting to remove the control arms and suspension tomoro at his place :)

thanks 4 ur input guys, wish me luck :)