B18C2 engine problem.

[John18c]

hey guys,
Recently just rebuilt top half of my 1996 teggy Vti-r, and I'm having some problems.
The engine doesn't idle smoothly, and I believe cylinder 1 (1st on the right isn't working).

Things I have done.
- Shaved and sandblasted head.
- replaced timing belt, fuel filter, tensioner, water pump and oil filter with OEM parts.
- new head gasket and vrs kit, new spark plugs, and new belts.
- drain and Flushed the coolant and oil, replaced with new coolant and oil.

The reason why i think the cylinder isn't working is because after trying to letting the engine run the exhaust (headers) on that isn't as nearly as hot as the rest.

So I took out the spark plug to see if it has ignited anything and it was clear.
Checked that all the spark plugs leads are making sparks by taking them out and holding it near the body, which they all do excepted one,
so I replaced the lead and and tried again, took it out and looked at it again and it has ignited.

However the exhaust (headers) isn't hot still. I thought maybe it was faulty spark plug so i swapped them around and its still the same cylinder that is having the problems.

Also when removing the spark plug lead steam comes out and smells like petrol.

Any ideas what is wrong? or what I should try now?

[Sp00ny]

hey guys,
Recently just rebuilt top half of my 1996 teggy Vti-r, and I'm having some problems.
The engine doesn't idle smoothly, and I believe cylinder 1 (1st on the right isn't working).

Things I have done.
- Shaved and sandblasted head.
- replaced timing belt, fuel filter, tensioner, water pump and oil filter with OEM parts.
- new head gasket and vrs kit, new spark plugs, and new belts.
- drain and Flushed the coolant and oil, replaced with new coolant and oil.

The reason why i think the cylinder isn't working is because after trying to letting the engine run the exhaust (headers) on that isn't as nearly as hot as the rest.

So I took out the spark plug to see if it has ignited anything and it was clear.
Checked that all the spark plugs leads are making sparks by taking them out and holding it near the body, which they all do excepted one,
so I replaced the lead and and tried again, took it out and looked at it again and it has ignited.

However the exhaust (headers) isn't hot still. I thought maybe it was faulty spark plug so i swapped them around and its still the same cylinder that is having the problems.

Also when removing the spark plug lead steam comes out and smells like petrol.

Any ideas what is wrong? or what I should try now?

Hey,

Things I would troubleshoot. If you can smell petrol then it most likely isnt an injector problem, well at least not a completely unfunctioning one. It is most likely an electrical problem or possibly a leak.

- Check the Distributor Cap/Rotor for contact pitch and proper operation. The knuckle on the cap may be excessivly worn or broke off.
- Check the Ignition leads again and again :p
- Faulty connection at Distributor Cap

Also are you using OEM Spark plug leads? Although the NGK and "Top Gun" aftermarket options are supposed to outperform standard I've had alot of experience with them not producing spark at all or good enough compared to the OEM counterpart. (mostly on non-honda motors though ie. ford, nissan).

[TODA AU]

Compression test to comfirm low comp
Then Check / adjust valve clearances to be sure.
If valve clearances are out, after sorting that out, close it up & try again.

[A-man]

yeh toda right..

this will explain ur bad idle....

[John18c]

thanks for the quick replies.

Forgot to mention,
Had the injectors cleaned (ultrasound).
I had 2 sets of leads not sure if they are oem.
ran a multimeter on them and used the ones with less ohms (resistances) they were about 10 ohms.
Also I have pulled off the distrubutor cap and checked the connections on that.
Did some light sanding.

By leak do you mean in the headgasket? I hope not.... lol.

Okay I'll get a compression test done and check the valve clearances out.


yeh toda right..

this will explain ur bad idle....

... It was a constructive suggestion, considering I rebuilt top half of my engine.
As I haven't done neither of those.

[ECU-MAN]

thats very bad, shaving the head, removing cams and not redoing the tappets.

Im with Toda, sounds like your valve lash is out.

you can also swap the injectors around as a test

[John18c]

thats very bad, shaving the head, removing cams and not redoing the tappets.

Im with Toda, sounds like your valve lash is out.

you can also swap the injectors around as a test

sorry forgot to mention that the place we serviced the head at said they did the tappets and valve springs.
maybe they screwed up I guess i should of checked

its hard to keep track of everything when you gotta remember where all the screws go and etc.

[TODA AU]

Valve clearances are adjusted last, just before you close it up.
The cams are out to put the head on & most of the time the head shop recives the head without the cams, cam caps or rocker gear.
It's a big ask to expect the head shop to do that on the bench.

Re keeping track of everything...
If you pull all of the rocker arms appart... Don't worry,
They all go back together in sets of 3 for each cyl.
They'r not matched sets so there will be no negative side effect if you muddle them up.
If they were matched, there wouldn't be an adjustment screw... :)
Anyway, the manual is easy to download also if you get stuck.

[John18c]

Valve clearances are adjusted last, just before you close it up.
The cams are out to put the head on & most of the time the head shop recives the head without the cams, cam caps or rocker gear.
It's a big ask to expect the head shop to do that on the bench.

Re keeping track of everything...
If you pull all of the rocker arms appart... Don't worry,
They all go back together in sets of 3 for each cyl.
They'r not matched sets so there will be no negative side effect if you muddle them up.
If they were matched, there wouldn't be an adjustment screw... :)
Anyway, the manual is easy to download also if you get stuck.

phewwwww thats a relief, was worried i might have to pull everything apart. again....... I put the cams and timing belt in PERFECTLY and forgot to put the plastic cover that goes behind the cams on..... Had to pull it apart and put it back together again lol

Just to confirm isn't it 2 sets of 3 for the rocket arms per valve?
its dohc

[ECU-MAN]

search the DIY section, there is a DIY on adjusting tappets for SOCH, its the same method for DOHC

[John18c]

Compression test to comfirm low comp
Then Check / adjust valve clearances to be sure.
If valve clearances are out, after sorting that out, close it up & try again.

This fixed the problem!. thanks a lot Toda! :wave::thumbsup:


search the DIY section, there is a DIY on adjusting tappets for SOCH, its the same method for DOHC

This gave me a very good idea on how to adjust valves! thanks a lot ECU-Man! :wave::thumbsup:

[OMG.JAI xD]

ozhonda ftw?


this should be stickied.
1 page with full of info.
:thumbsup:

[John18c]

ozhonda ftw?


this should be stickied.
1 page with full of info.
:thumbsup:

maybe a rebuild check list would be better?
(in order)

[tm143]

i have a wrx and cant remove the spark leads can anyone help they seem to have a lock how do i de-activate?

[TODA AU]

i have a wrx and cant remove the spark leads can anyone help they seem to have a lock how do i de-activate?
Well it isn't a Honda & it's off topic, but what the hey...
What model?
97~00 GC8?
You need really strong fingers...;)

Happy New Year! :thumbsup: