Rallying a Honda

[s1600]

There are a few of us around who rally Honda's so I though I would share a little.

As rallying is a little miss understood I thought I might point out a few interesting points.

Basically rallying is a race over a certain distance using public roads and closed roads. Over the distance (Typically 300 - 400km) the event is divided into a number of stages and service periods.

'Touring' stages cover the open road sections, following route instructions (route book) which are taken at 'transport' speeds following all road rules and need to be completed within certain time periods. These time periods are generous, but only allow for an average speed of about 30% less than the road limit. For example if the 1st touring stage is 60km, an allowance of 1 hour may be given. Any time over this, due to any reason - mechanical, flat tyre, getting lost - is then logged as 'Late time'.

'Special Stages' are the closed road sections. Where the road is closed to the public and the object is to record the lowest possible time over the stage distance. The total time taken over all Special Stages + 'Late Time' is your overal time for the event.

An event is generally 8 - 10 special stages of around 120 - 150 km the completion of which is an exercise in good engineering, car control and endurance, with up to 6 - 8 hrs + in a hot car and 1 1/2 hours of flat out racing in an event.

More soon

[bennjamin]

it would be great to see some incar footage....

[I heart the SSS]

it would be great to see some incar footage....

Agreed.

I love in car footage, especially rally driving. It's insanely awesome.

[s1600]

To add to above.

For many years the public face of rallies was dominated by rear wheel drive cars. However now this type of car is older and can get very expensive to mantian and develop competitive HP.

For the last 20 years turbo charged four wheel drive cars have dominated rallies. They have the grip and the power. So why choose a front wheel drive honda?

Basically cost, or more importantly bang for your buck. With a fairly standard b16a civic you can get 100kw @ wheels from a 1000kg car. As a comparison a WRX or Evo (which have to run a 36 or 34mm restrictor) may get 180kww at run at 1300 - 1400 kgs. Obviously with alot more traction.

Remember motorsport is expensive. But a well run civic is 'affordable :( ' at around $5 - 10k a year. And a well run Wrx is more in the $20k +

So the civic is a great option for a quick are reasonably cheap car.

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j56/rallyspeed2/10042008042-1.jpg

[s1600]

Classic B16a rally footage. This is a Group N or standard B16a and gear box. It only has a roll cage and modified shocks and springs. Its insanely brave.

Enjoy



http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=pYUlNXwJ8fY

[s1600]

when it does not go so right....

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=Iv2xKH9FcBE&feature=related

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=8BTfXO9SH3U

[Type S Tony]

Wheres a good starting point to enter a tarmac rally, are their any websites that anyone knows of where rules and regulations on cars can be obtained? ive always wanted to get into it but have never known were to begin?

[s1600]

Tony,

Tarmac Rallies are a little thin on the ground in NSW.

The process is to join a Cams affiliated club: NSSCC, Thornleigh CC, HDSCC or any one of dozens in NSW.

Then you get a cams L2 licence. This will enable you to do club events, motor khana's, sprints etc.

From there you need to do 2 OLT's - observed licenses tests (pretty easy) to get a rally licence.

Then ensure you car is elligable for events on safety grounds and away you go.......

Tarmac rallies are - Rally Burnie in Tassie, Targa Tassie, Lake Mountain sprint in Vic, Mt Buller in Vic, QLd Challenge in QLd.

Other than that you have - Super Sprints and Hill Climbs.

[Type S Tony]

Thanks for that Info,

Ive been wanting to get into motorsports for a while now as it seems like alot of fun & good competiton.

Only bummer is like you said alot of events seem to be interstate, so would it be worth persuing if I could probably only do 2 interstate events each year?

I got some cash saved up and am waiting for some more, I was thinking of buying a dc2/4 and prep it myself or just buy one ready to go from my105.com

the other option is drag racing and track days but i like the rallies better becuase its an actual competition & the best part is that its on public roads.

I have alot of experiance in preping race cars but mainly for drag racing and mainly older fords & holdens, although did do work on some jap cars also.

Do you think it would be worth while or will it just turn out to be a money pit for a car i cant even drive on the road @ the end of the day?

[s1600]

Tony,

Always a delimma.

To me a competition car - should be just that, one only used for comp.

Mine can be be road registed, but in its current tune, driving on the road is bloody awful, hot, noisey, hard, brutal and 5000rpm at 100km/h is just horrible. but in a rally its a weapon....

I would suggest to any one starting......

Apart from buying a decent Jack.

Start with a very basic, cheaper older style car..... This would include EG's EF's Early DC's. Basically a car you can get into for reasonble money and still have enough to run it.

Order of budget
1) Safety
2) Suspension, brakes and Tyres
3) Gear Box
4) Power
5) Weight

Most people go about this the other way....

To me - a ideal first car is a EG , light, fast, big and safe. And cheap panels and chassis. Arguably quicker than a DC2r - under current regs. Certainly cheaper.

[s1600]

Buying an existing car is always cheaper. But has a small risk

Building is always more expensive. But you know what you get.

For a first car I would buy at least a half built car, if not a complete one.

[DNYALL]

bloody hell man, the ss7 footage is insane. Massive respect for the driver. Some of those bumps he hits are huge!! Very tight roads.

[markoJEK1]

^ I agree, big big props to mark higgins , awesome example of a good driver

[Type S Tony]

Buying an existing car is always cheaper. But has a small risk

Building is always more expensive. But you know what you get.

For a first car I would buy at least a half built car, if not a complete one.

Thankyou for your help, will keep this all in mind!