What to do with such a big subwoofer

[bringingbackchivalry]

ive just bought a brand new

JBL W15GTi MKII 5000w 15" Car Audio Subwoofer

with specs:

* Sensitivity: 92dB @ 2.83V/1m
* Power Handling: 800W RMS, 5,000W Peak
* Impedance: 3 or 12 ohms
* Frequency Response: 16Hz ~ 1kHz
* Voice-Coil Diameter: 3" (76mm)
* Mounting Depth: 10-1/4" (260mm)
* Overall Diameter: 5-1/4" (388mm)
* Cut-Out Diameter: 13-7/8" (353mm)
* Displacement: 0.174 ft3 ( 4.93 l )

apparently its a monster of a sub..
im not sure what amp to buy now.
im running a kenwood kfc-w3011 right now.
with a soundstream 480.4 amplifier.
and i need some advice as to what amp to buy now.

[mr ©harisma]

Budget?

[Sexc86]

Id suggest a monoblock or a 2channel. Something that is also 2ohm stable, rated at atleast 1000watt RMS. Kicker, JL, Rockford fosgate. they are some pretty reputable brands in subs & Amps

[55EXX]

don't bother with a 2 channel. tho it may have the specs on paper it won't have the efficiency and true grunt of a monoblock d class amp. i'd be looking into jaycar


CAT. NO. AA0460 RRP $439.00

http://www.jaycar.com.au/products_uploaded/product_10559.jpg

RESPONSE 1000WRMS LINKABLE CAR MONOBLOCK AMPLIFIER
Monstrous, bleeding-eardrum power and high efficiency in an extremely compact chassis. It has dual MOSFET power supplies and is stable driving 1 or 2 ohm loads. In addition, you get variable bass boost, adjustable phase shift, low pass filter and master/slave operation. Optional remote bass gain controller.

• Speaker short, over current, thermal and DC protection
• 4 AWG power terminals

Specifications:
• Power output:
• 1000WRMS @ 1 ohm mono 14.4V
• 600WRMS @ 2 ohms mono 14.4V
• 1800WRMS @ 2 ohm linkable(more power if you want more), dual mono 14.4V
• Low pass filter: 30 - 250Hz
• Bass boost: 0 - 12dB
• Phase shift: 0 -180°
• Dimensions: 300(L) x 170(W) x 50(H)mm

these amps have been powering spl systems for yonks. price per wrms unbeatable!

case closed. why waste money on more expensive gear when such a big sub will prolly sound like arse sound quality wise. total power is what your after for a sub purely intended to go loud.

[amurray]

hmm.... jacar * thumbs down * my suggestion would be a DD M3 amp.. and have it turned down. there stable at 1 ohm :) fun. can take 0.25 ohm.. if ur on a budget try a Option audio 1502. that would be a good power match. if your on the goldcoast or in brisbane go down and see brad at car tunes about an atomic amp... im sure they make somthing that will do it.

but god man... please dont waste this sub by using a response amp...

[amurray]

ow and make this box for it.. it would pump hardout.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e77/amatt85/box%20specs/jmoney231.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e77/amatt85/boxes/jmoney231.jpg

[JasonGilholme]

lol i find it funny that people think the sub is the most important bit.

Yeah its a descent sub, and that Jaycar response amp is made with good gear. (i know i've pulled one apart before - Much better components then other D class amps i've opened up).

The main problem would be with your head unit. Doesn't matter if you spend 1000's of bucks on a sub + amp if you got a shit head unit you'll be sending your expensive gear a shitty signal and just making shit noise sound louder.

Send you amp + sub some quality signal and a jaycar amp will do you well.

[amurray]

of course the sub is not the most importent bit.. i find it funny people actualy think the response gear is decent... :S

[B18cEG]

Lets just start with yes jaycar amps ar very good for the price, I work with hundreds of different amps and subs everyday, Look at the sub, it has dual 6ohm coils so it can be wired to either 12 or 3ohm, 3ohm being prefered because there is no normal amps that will create a decent amount of power at 12 ohm, ok now the sub can run at 3ohm lets look at an amp, i hate when everyone says get a this or get a that because its 1ohm or .25ohm stable, all bullshit. if that amp makes 1500wrms at 1ohm its gonna be near 500wrms at 3ohm so choose wisely, that jbl sub ur talking about has a fairly high max power (only for 3 second spl burp tests) and has such a low rms rating, meaning u can only run it at 800w or maybe 1000w continious. Amp time, look for an amp 2omh stable with decent power maybe 1500wrms at 2 ohm so it will still put out decent power at 3ohm, or even the alpine pdx1.1000 since it puts out the same power at 4 or 2 ohm so thats about 1170wrms going off the birth sheets you get in the box, just a thought since u may be being led in the wrong direction by people saying get a 1ohm stable it makes 1000000wrms blah blah blah.

Sorry for all the writing,
And if u feel like getting a better louder "big" sub let me know and i can direct in the right direction, instead of this beginers big sub.
What head unit you running?

[arverson]

mr charisma summed it up nicely, without a budget we could suggest anything from a boss to a mcintosh..

[DC5TYPER]

Run a JBL Monobloc

GTO14001
1200W RMS @ 4ohm
1500W RMS @ 2ohm

At 3 ohm ull will roughly see 1350W RMS with this amp.

800W rms will barely move a Sub of that size.

If your interseted in this amp. Let me know as my shop sells JBL as a dealer.

Cheers

[55EXX]

dd subs ftw in spl.

brad at car tunes :thumbsup:
drew at northfield :thumbsup:

2 of the best in brisbane

You want power. response amps have got it at a cheap price. i hate how people diss them not even have used them etc. just rip on it cos it is a no name brand. alot of effort goes into them. pm damon on mobile electronics australia. thats damon dupriez that does all the reviews in hot 4s, autosalon etc. ask his professional opinion. just ask in a thread on there all together instead og getting a bunch of not quite in the know people to answer your question.

if it were me i'd go tru tech amp matched to a id max 12 or even 10 paired with my already existing dynaudio 3 ways eclipse cd7100 HU and audiosystem f2 500 front stage amp. won't be as loud but more tonally accurate alive and enjoyable. but hey what would i know.

[tiksie]

of course the sub is not the most importent bit.. i find it funny people actualy think the response gear is decent... :S


Response gear is bang for buck! Great quality parts with great prices!

[sneekers]

apart from the headunit and amp, have you made an enclosure for this sub?

if not i'd probably go for a sealed enclosure as a ported enclosure would take up your whole boot

JBL W15GTi-MkII
Sealed Box Volume 1.50 cubic feet
Ported Box Volume 4.00 cubic feet

[B18cEG]

apart from the headunit and amp, have you made an enclosure for this sub?

if not i'd probably go for a sealed enclosure as a ported enclosure would take up your whole boot

JBL W15GTi-MkII
Sealed Box Volume 1.50 cubic feet
Ported Box Volume 4.00 cubic feet

Dont forget these specs you see above are actually for a certain tuned frequency box which is completely change by which car u put it in, and FYI you can build a simple rectangular ported box that is 4.00 cubic feet that easily fits into the back or a eg civic hatch with full visibility and seats closed (just to give u an idea of the size), 4 cubic feet is not that big, 6cubic feet is when u start to get huge, What car btw is this going into