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View Full Version : Best way to get the hub spinning freely again?



beeza
25-12-2008, 08:19 AM
I've got my Integra Front Brake Upgrade ready to go in my Civic.I was cleaning them up yesterday and noticed when I give them a spin,one spins well and the other not very well at all.

What the best way to clean/lube/grease it up to get them moving freely again?

Cheers guys.

thepope1986
25-12-2008, 10:04 AM
does the bearing feel notchy at all? (does it rotate smoothly) cos if it doesnt the bearing may be nearing the end

beeza
25-12-2008, 10:18 AM
Thanks mate.It dosen't feel notchy but just grips more than the other one.If I spin it it only spins around 1 and a bit times,the other one about 3...

New bearings would be good.I may aswell do that.First time I've done this...Are they called front hub bearing?

Redlinemotorsport
25-12-2008, 10:22 AM
hey beez,
the bearings arent too expensive its just a bit of a b*tch to get the old ones off if u dont have the right tools.

beeza
25-12-2008, 10:27 AM
Ah I see.I know a fella at my local muffler shop that's real good with car's,he should be able to do it.He's cheap too.He owned the fasted V8 in Australia at one stage.

Thanks beez :)

beeza
20-08-2009, 04:46 PM
What is the name of that bearing?

ECU-MAN
20-08-2009, 05:08 PM
take the brake caliper off and try again.

Id me more concered about the one that spins more.

new(er) bearings wont spin freely like that. older more well used bearings will spin freely like that

beeza
20-08-2009, 05:26 PM
Oh!

Maybe I should just replace them both then.

What's the mane of the bearing John?

vinnY
21-08-2009, 01:18 AM
it's just a wheel/hub bearing
just get one for the car where you got your brakes from and you should be right

na-118
21-08-2009, 01:36 AM
don't worry about taking it to the shops, just replace all wheel bearings to be safe cheap anyways, find a right socket
put it on the bench or someone hold it and smash it out

vinnY
21-08-2009, 01:38 AM
how do you plan on getting the race off that usually comes off with the hub?

na-118
21-08-2009, 01:44 AM
have you got a photo or something, that's what i done when i changed the wheel studs, needed to smash the wheel bearing out,,

vinnY
21-08-2009, 01:52 AM
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/7036/longstudsvf5.jpg
the race is the large bit thats still attached to the hub
the bearings roll on this

people say you can dremel in a lot then cold chisel it off, others say you can do it carefully with a screw driver

dunno how you managed to change the bearing without even seeing the race

ECU-MAN
21-08-2009, 08:54 AM
a press is the best way to do it :)

vinnY
21-08-2009, 09:07 AM
yep press + correct attachments will get it off
just take it to a shop and get it done
not worth the trouble if you don't have a press

na-118
21-08-2009, 12:03 PM
no need for press if you know how to do it man

SHOGUNOVDDRK
21-08-2009, 12:17 PM
Brett, Darryl can press these for you.

beeza
23-08-2009, 11:11 AM
Thanks SHO,Vin,John,na-118!!

JohnL
23-08-2009, 06:29 PM
So the hub is tighter on one side with both calipers removed, or at least with the pads removed from the calipers? What makes you so sure the problem is in the wheel bearings, and not in the differential?

beeza
23-08-2009, 07:31 PM
Thanks John!

What the differential?

Here's a pic of them:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_0442.jpg

If you just take off that centre part of the caliper and grab the rotor and give it a spin,1 spins good and one dosen't.

I can put up a short vid,if needed,no probs!

JohnL
24-08-2009, 08:38 AM
What the differential?

We are talking about the front brakes?

The 'differential' is that part of the drive train (gearbox etc) that the two drive shafts come out of (inside the gearbox housing), and is the mechanism that permits the two driving wheels to rotate at differing speeds (rpm) in order to account for the different distances that each wheel has to travel when turning corners.

It's conceivable that there might be a bearing issue within the differential that could cause one drive shaft to rotate with more resistance than the other drive shaft.

It's also possible that there might be a bearing issue associated with the intermediate shaft of the left side drive shaft (the right side drive shaft doesn't have an intermediate shaft).

The left side drive shaft is made up of two shafts, the outer one being more or less identical to the right side drive shaft and incorporating the two CV joints. The second shaft is the 'intermediate' shaft and is that part of the left side drive shaft that is attached at it's inner end to the differential, and attached it's outer end (with a bearing) to the front / bottom of the engine block and the inner end of the outer drive shaft.

Clear as mud? If the bearing (by which the intermediate shaft is attached to the engine block) is not running freely then you could have a 'tight' drive shaft on the left side.

It's not impossible that one of the CVs is resistant to turning.

So, it's posssible that the problem could be in the differential, in the intermediate shaft bearing, in a CV, or in the hub bearing.

beeza
24-08-2009, 09:32 AM
Thank U John!!

Clear as mud mate haha,Crystal Clear!! :)

Sorry the pic didn't work...but as you can now see they are the front brakes are off the car.They are off an integra,a front brake upgrade for my EK1.

vinnY
24-08-2009, 09:55 AM
just some light reading if you can be bothered
symptoms of a worn wheel hub bearing (http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/cgi-bin/ryderfp/technicalbulletins/WheelHubBearing.jsp)

ek4-guy
24-08-2009, 10:00 AM
Brett, Darryl can press these for you.

:o hahahahaha :wave:

beeza
24-08-2009, 10:20 AM
Thanks Vin!

haha Daz!

:)

JohnL
24-08-2009, 06:21 PM
Thank U John!!

Clear as mud mate haha,Crystal Clear!! :)

Sorry the pic didn't work...but as you can now see they are the front brakes are off the car.They are off an integra,a front brake upgrade for my EK1.

It makes more sense now that we're on the same page. I didn't understand that the drive shafts weren't involved.

In this case I'm tending to agree with whoever it was who said they'd be more worried about the more free spinning hub bearing. The bearing will most probably have neoprene (or 'nitrile', or whatever) dust shields that rub on the inner race and create some friction that prevents the bearing spinning very freely, unless the dust shields are worn and no longer contacting the inner race, in which case the bearing may spin and spin.

If there is any doubt about either of the bearings (even if they spin nicely and don't wobble / grind etc) then I'd be very inclined to replace them while the hub isn't on the car, save potential hassle later. The only thing that might stop me from doing this would be if the bearings were quite expensive (and some are).

beeza
25-08-2009, 10:11 AM
Thanks John,cheers mate.I will do that!