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cupnoodle
08-01-2009, 08:44 AM
Hi all,

Quick question. When changing rims, is it as simple as unbolting the existing lugs, replace with new rims and bolting back on?

I want to put EP3R rims on my DC5R and wanted to know how difficult it is to DIY.

chargeR
08-01-2009, 08:59 AM
Yup is it that simple. If you can operate the stock jack and wheel brace you should be able to achieve it.

Will take a little while though since you will have to do each corner individually unless you have a bigger floor jack.

mars_panas
08-01-2009, 09:08 AM
Here's a video that can take you through the process...

http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-change-a-tyre

kinda funny too....

i know you don't have a flat tyre but its the same process lar...

enjoy

Lukey
08-01-2009, 09:14 AM
1. loosen lugs a couple of turns
2. jack up car
3. jam foot against the tyre to stop it falling off and undo the lugs
4. take wheel off
5. put new wheel on and do lugs up
6. lower car back down
7. tighten lugs fully (make sure you do one lug, then lug opposite it, then whatever order)
8. have fun

cupnoodle
08-01-2009, 09:28 AM
Thanks for your prompt responses guys

+1 rep for all

Q_ball
08-01-2009, 09:40 AM
1. loosen lugs a couple of turns
2. jack up car
3. jam foot against the tyre to stop it falling off and undo the lugs
4. take wheel off
5. put new wheel on and do lugs up
6. lower car back down
7. tighten lugs fully (make sure you do one lug, then lug opposite it, then whatever order)
8. have fun

Good response there Lukey.

cupnoodle
08-01-2009, 09:52 AM
For anyone else who's new to this, my cubical neighbour suggested that after changing the wheels, that you should go for a slow drive around the block, and tighten them once more afterwards.

Q_ball
08-01-2009, 09:55 AM
Yeh, its always good to check em again as the wheels/nuts might've shifted somewhat.

EK9
08-01-2009, 10:00 AM
For anyone else who's new to this, my cubical neighbour suggested that after changing the wheels, that you should go for a slow drive around the block, and tighten them once more afterwards.
yup, sounds like good advice... also a recommendation from STTICH... and offtopic, do the same if you're happening to be lowering your coilovers.

oh, and they say tighten the lugs in a criss-cross pattern. seems the way to do most things anyway.

Lukey
08-01-2009, 10:07 AM
oh, and they say tighten the lugs in a criss-cross pattern. seems the way to do most things anyway.

yes, do the first one, and the one opposite it next.

SIRFN2
08-01-2009, 10:10 AM
Dont forget to wheel balance and alignment after you've put the rims.

Zdster
08-01-2009, 10:24 AM
Yeh, its always good to check em again as the wheels/nuts might've shifted somewhat.

After 100km's or so I usually check them. The reason that most wheel shops torque them down so tight is that they do loosen over time. If they are put on to tight they can shear, so just be a little careful.

chargeR
08-01-2009, 10:47 AM
Dont forget to wheel balance and alignment after you've put the rims.

An alignment is not necessary if the alignment was good before the wheel change. Changing wheels will not change wheel alignment.

T-onedc2
08-01-2009, 12:11 PM
Dont forget to wheel balance and alignment after you've put the rims.
on top of what chargeR said, get the wheels balanced before you put them on the car, much easier.

power_of_dreams
08-01-2009, 12:24 PM
so I suppose you're only saving yourself the fitting price if you DIY then?

Lukey
08-01-2009, 12:37 PM
so I suppose you're only saving yourself the fitting price if you DIY then?

i guess you could say that

i enjoy taking my wheels on and off just for the hell of it

hahah

040501912
08-01-2009, 01:21 PM
dont over tight ur bolts.. or u might snap the stud.

make sure you crew the nuts in first with you fingers before you tightened it up with ratchet or the tools.

do it with you hands! as hard as possible AND remember NEVER STEP on the bar when you tightened it up.

And also make sure its 90 degree adjacent from the ratchet/bar to the nut this reduce the shear wear on the nuts.. worst is you round them up .. :)

power_of_dreams
08-01-2009, 02:02 PM
i guess you could say that

i enjoy taking my wheels on and off just for the hell of it

hahah

Well, I suppose it's better to save something than nothing..

power_of_dreams
19-02-2009, 09:53 PM
1. loosen lugs a couple of turns
2. jack up car
3. jam foot against the tyre to stop it falling off and undo the lugs
4. take wheel off
5. put new wheel on and do lugs up
6. lower car back down
7. tighten lugs fully (make sure you do one lug, then lug opposite it, then whatever order)
8. have fun

tightening with hand tools should be ok right? No chance of shearing the bolts as long as you don't step/jump on the bar?

mocchi
19-02-2009, 10:18 PM
+- 80 lbf ft
+- 110 nm
(ek)
confirm with your specific car service manual if you're scared to over-tighten.

power_of_dreams
19-02-2009, 10:34 PM
I don't have a torque wrench, I plan on using the tools in my boot.

M@lew
19-02-2009, 11:09 PM
Depends on your nuts. Get a 19mm long socket to use if you got aftermarket nuts, (you can try mine if you want) The stock tool is bad I found for anything other than stock (makes sense). It only "just" gets the after market nut, so if you slip you might start shearing your nuts. :D

Initial Drift
19-02-2009, 11:21 PM
if the stud holes for your new rims are too small you mite end up having to get the hex key style nuts and a hex key tool to go with it...just one small problem you may or may not encounter if you get aftermarket rims, should be fine with other stock honda rims..dont forget to get locknuts aswell

power_of_dreams
19-02-2009, 11:32 PM
Depends on your nuts. Get a 19mm long socket to use if you got aftermarket nuts, (you can try mine if you want) The stock tool is bad I found for anything other than stock (makes sense). It only "just" gets the after market nut, so if you slip you might start shearing your nuts. :D

Nah I am swapping honda stockies for honda stockies, so I'll be re-using the stock nuts. Seems like the ghetto boot tools should do then :thumbsup:

vinnY
20-02-2009, 12:12 PM
boot tool is fine, just don't go nuts and think you need to stamp on it with your foot to make sure it's "tight"
usually tight + half turn or so is enough

Lukey
20-02-2009, 12:55 PM
tightening with hand tools should be ok right? No chance of shearing the bolts as long as you don't step/jump on the bar?

yes, i advise not to stand or jump on the tool,

i usually tighten reasonasbly hard and then give it a quick hard shove to tighten it a bit more

Type S Tony
20-02-2009, 01:03 PM
Why has it taken 3 pages to explain how to change the wheels around on your car?

Lukey
20-02-2009, 02:20 PM
Why has it taken 3 pages to explain how to change the wheels around on your car?

i explained it on post #4

but people keep asking question

mocchi
20-02-2009, 03:08 PM
Why has it taken 3 pages to explain how to change the wheels around on your car?

because its easy. and people want to get pq points. :p
havent you realize the tendency of it already hahah

Initial Drift
22-02-2009, 01:01 AM
if u use boot tool mite need a steel pipe for leverage.....try not to snap bolts tho...i really need a point =/

trism
22-02-2009, 12:03 PM
well that post isnt gonna getr you a point

you arent gonna need a steel pipe, if the factory felt it necessary they would have supplied one

Initial Drift
22-02-2009, 11:15 PM
sometimes nuts tighten up over time, or sometimes when you get fresh tyres they over tighten the nuts. steel pipe gives you more leverage ther for less strain on the person limiting the chances of them slipping the tool off the nut and scratching the rim