Getting a B18C R Bored

[Barge Ass]

What are the pro's con's cost's and changes I need to make to stock of getting a B18C bored to 2L?

[DLO01]

You can't simply get it bored to 2ltr, not enough meat in the walls. To do it properly and safely you will need a stroker kit.

*edit*
Have a look here:
http://www.crower.com/cat/import/honda/stroker/stroker.shtml

:thumbsup:

[hisoka]

yes as dlooi said you need stroker kit.

jun auto parts makes a kit for the b series engine. costs about 5 grand if i can remeber~

[IEVAQ8]

whats wrong with b18cr in stock form?????????

if u want more NA power, build it.......

higher comp pistons and bigger cams...........rods and all the rest of it

[FastFwd]

You should be able to push a heap of power out of it without the stroker kit.

[AE092]

ITB's/ECU/exhaust/porting not enough?

[FastFwd]

i forgot what i feels like to drive a nicely tuned NA b series. good times

[Barge Ass]

I read on team integra that boring (and obv sleeving) was preferred and less expensive than stroking.

[FastFwd]

'Barge Ass' have you ever seen the inside of a B series bore? its floating so when DLO01 said theres not enough meat in the walls he means exactly that. google some pics of a floating bore and you will see what he means.

[Barge Ass]

Please excuse my naivety. I have a Mugen Intake, ATS FD and an exedy clutch/fly and after I/H/E want to build it up a little and just don't know whether increasing displacement is a good option. I love the torquey feel. If I want to go with cams and a mild build later is it wise to leave the tune for after?

[tinkerbell]

I read on team integra that boring (and obv sleeving) was preferred and less expensive than stroking.

yes, no-one posting above realises you are obviously talking about re-sleeving.

go for it!

pros = massive power gain if you are able to goto 86mm bore (but 85mm is probably the best, e.g with Darton or GE)

cons = cost of all the work and forged internals (go for 12.5:1 ratio with massive cams)

you *could* even stroke it to 89mm ore even crazier 95mm prelude crank!!!

but stock B18CR crank is excellent to work from.

[tinkerbell]

If I want to go with cams and a mild build later is it wise to leave the tune for after?

no. get the ECU now, tune whatever you have.

cams = you MUST have tunable ECU anyways...

[DLO01]

Yeh, you did not mention anything about sleaving.

[Barge Ass]

Sorry Deano forgive my noobness.

[tinkerbell]

Yeh, you did not mention anything about sleaving.

maybe re-read post #8 (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2070452&postcount=8)

[DLO01]

No probs man.


Please excuse my naivety. I have a Mugen Intake, ATS FD and an exedy clutch/fly and after I/H/E want to build it up a little and just don't know whether increasing displacement is a good option. I love the torquey feel. If I want to go with cams and a mild build later is it wise to leave the tune for after?

Have you any idea on how much sleaving cost's? I know its one of your questions but its quite pricey. You've mentioned above a "mild build". As said there are other things you can do. Your stock sleaves are fine for just about anything NA. You'll only need sleaves on a hard core setup.

[DLO01]

maybe re-read post #8 (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2070452&postcount=8)

Yeh, 'after' my post #2. :p

[tinkerbell]

yes, well, post #2 could have read:


You can't simply get it bored to 2ltr, not enough meat in the walls. To do it properly and safely you will need a stroker kit or a full block re-sleeve.

[DLO01]

Yes I could have, but I didn't, because the OP asked.....


What are the pro's con's cost's and changes I need to make to stock of getting a B18C bored to 2L?

[Barge Ass]

Yes pretty aware that it will leave a huge hole in my pocket but its cheaper than buying a new car. Maybe I'll leave the disp and just build it a bit. I'm wanting to be safely and efficiently running about Toda B's in the future.

[tinkerbell]

B18CR + I/H/E + Toda B's + ecu tuning = fun fun fun...