ASR Sub Frame Reinforcement Brace Install on EK

[kriZy]

Hey all,

I finally have the ASR kit with all the endlink, bushings, D brackets etc and 22mm EK9 CTR Rear Sway Bar.

I just had some questions I needed to clarify before installing this on my 96' EK4.

According to the Instructions on the ASR website
eksubframe.pdf (http://www.asrparts.com/instructions/eksubframe.pdf)

Says i need the following...

Basic Tools
- Metric Socket Set
- Metric Combination Wrench set
- Metric Allen-head set
- Rag or shop towel

Safety Tools
- Safety Goggles

That i'll need to get from supercheap auto cause i have limited tools. Any other tools needed?

1. Do I need Grease too?
if so, what kind? and what/where do I grease up at?

2. It says "Install the backing plate and use the 45mm center flange bolt. Do not tighten until both sides are installed. Tighten to 20ft/lbs
What does 20ft/lbs mean?

3. Any clearance issues installing with a X-Force Twinloop muffler?

4. How long this take to install for you?

5. Any other tips or anything I should be aware of during installation?

Any help/tips/comments appreciated.

Thanks,

kriZy. (abit of a n00b)

[akira]

1. you may want to grease up the bushings as its new...there are many out there that will do the job. e.g WD40

2. 20ft/lbs is the pressure point when tightening the bolt. you have to use a power wrench and set it to 20ft/lbs... its only a recommendation.

3. The X-Force Twinloop muffler wouldnt be an issue. cant remember if ek4s come with a rear sway bar or not...someone can confirm??
if you do have one and it has no interference with your exhaust then it will be fine...its just a matter of uninstalling your current swaybar and installing your new ek9 one... the asr brace should be easy to install...

4. the length of time it will take you depends on if you know how to install it...if you have the right tools and understand what to do then it will take about 1/2 - 1 hour... if you're new at it then it may take a while longer...say 2hours??

5. it will be much safer if you have car stands to hold the rear of your ek4 up...if you can, put one of your wheels under the rear-middle section of the car just in case something happens...

gl

[kriZy]

hey akira,

thanks man!

so this guy here lubed up the D (black) bushing under the (gold) D bracket
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/6775/asritr025thvi9.jpg

LOOK properly.. he lubed the bar up too so he can slide the D bracket side to side. - This OK to do aswell?
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/2245/asritr027thps2.jpg


This is where I should be Lubing up all around correct? (in red)

http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/8164/bushingsyq4.jpg

Then put the D Brackets on top of them and screw on.

[Limbo]

clears twin loop no probs, i had it with a twinloop before in my ek4.
If you'v never done it before about 2-3hrs.
The hardest part is the main bolt for the chassis

[kriZy]

which bolt would that be Limbo?
is it visible in that picture above?

[beeza]

Don't put too much grease cause dirt will stick to it.

I ended up taking mine to a mate that had a torque wrench.You should really torque it down to spec for piece of mind.It's beats the guessing game.

Any mates with a torque wrench?

[kriZy]

tbh i dont even know what the hell that is.

is that the thing you adjust on the back of it and you can keep spinning it one direction even if you pull it back?

[trism]

no thats a ratchet

easiest way to explainit

is just read this

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_wrench

[kriZy]

thanks trism.
looks expensive.

[Limbo]

which bolt would that be Limbo?
is it visible in that picture above?


main bolt x2, the longest one there

[Dy_]

thanks trism.
looks expensive.

yeah torque wrench lets you tighten bolts to a specific amount of torque that is recommended for certain bolts. as more or less maybe unsafe. but alot of the time diy mechanics just guess it and tighten it to whatever they can.

it will come in handy if you plan on doing alot of diy stuff at home.

[bennjamin]

but alot of the time diy mechanics just guess it and tighten it to whatever they can.

alot of the time many professional mechanics do the exact same lol.

[Dy_]

also for the main bolt might come in handy to have a rubber mallet as well cause it'll help get the bolt though.

[Dy_]

alot of the time many professional mechanics do the exact same lol.

ahaha yeah so i've heard that alot of mechanics can use their arms are torque wrenches and get it right. if only i could do that...save myself 50$!

[JasonGilholme]

I'm a DIY mech. I torque everything important down to spec.

Installing these things is easy. Just follow the instructions. and make sure you buy descent tools. Don't cheap out. They're made to last if you buy a good set. You'll also prevent damage to bolts and yourself if you have half descent tools.

Also, i wouldn't suggest using WD40 as a lub for the bushes. WD40 will dry them out and squeeck after a while. WD40 is only a temporary lubricant. Get a propper grease for the job. should be able to find something at autobarn/supercheap. just don't use WD40. you will regret it.

[kriZy]

Dy__, you talk like you've done this before. have you man? i know where you live =P..

Thanks for the tip Jason, I was contemplating on WD40 cause I didn't even think it was a lubricant to begin with, cause what kind of lubricant minimizes rust?

alright thanks all again for the replies, i will be heading out to buy tools on saturday and DIY myself. i'll post up pics if im successful :o

Dy__
correct me if im wrong but, your talking about this aye?

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/8676/rubbermaletparthh6.jpg

[JasonGilholme]

good luck man.

Make sure you have a jack and jack stands too. Don't get under the car wthout them.

also, you'll be working under the rear of the car so put it in reverse (or park if you're an auto) and pop some bricks in front of the front tyres so she doesn't roll forward when you jack her up.

Not sure if you know that already but just thought it might be helpful. :thumbsup: Good to see someone else getting into DIY.

[bennjamin]

I'm a DIY mech. I torque everything important down to spec.

Installing these things is easy. Just follow the instructions. and make sure you buy descent tools. Don't cheap out. They're made to last if you buy a good set. You'll also prevent damage to bolts and yourself if you have half descent tools.

Also, i wouldn't suggest using WD40 as a lub for the bushes. WD40 will dry them out and squeeck after a while. WD40 is only a temporary lubricant. Get a propper grease for the job. should be able to find something at autobarn/supercheap. just don't use WD40. you will regret it.


I too am a DIY mech and use a proper torque wrench for 80% of jobs , mostly just wheel nuts , engine mounts and clutch installs. You NEED to be accurate with the latter !

anyway ,, do not use WD40 on any object that is rubber or comes in contact with rubber as it can eventually wear prematurely.
Use WD40 for loosening nuts and bolts only. For bushes use a general purpose grease or lithium grease. Ive used general purpose grease from castrol for years on probably 80 or so swaybar installs and never an issue. Only whiteline products with the stiffer poly bushes seem to squeak after X amount of time.

[JasonGilholme]

+rep ben. Good info on the bushing lube.

100% agree with everything you said there. :thumbsup:

[Dy_]

I too am a DIY mech and use a proper torque wrench for 80% of jobs , mostly just wheel nuts , engine mounts and clutch installs. You NEED to be accurate with the latter !

anyway ,, do not use WD40 on any object that is rubber or comes in contact with rubber as it can eventually wear prematurely.
Use WD40 for loosening nuts and bolts only. For bushes use a general purpose grease or lithium grease. Ive used general purpose grease from castrol for years on probably 80 or so swaybar installs and never an issue. Only whiteline products with the stiffer poly bushes seem to squeak after X amount of time.

thats pretty much the only reason why i use wd40...best for getting old and rusted bolts and nuts!

[Dy_]

Dy__, you talk like you've done this before. have you man? i know where you live =P..

Dy__
correct me if im wrong but, your talking about this aye?

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/8676/rubbermaletparthh6.jpg

nuh i was talking about the one that connects your lca to your subframe. its the longest bolt.

[Limbo]

the longest is the hardest to get in

[kriZy]

oh..
they are saying to put that in first.

[Dy_]

oh..
they are saying to put that in first.

yeah it takes some time to get that in lol. prepare to get sweaty and dirty

[bennjamin]

remember to apply all bolts in FINGER TIGHT initally , so the ASR and the backing plates all line up correctly.

If you tighten one side or both , you may pull the ASR out of alignment with the other holes that require a bolt.

[vinnY]

yep finger tight with car in the air, drop the car then torque up the bolts to proper torque settings otherwise your bushes will wear prematurely

if you can't reach them with the car dropped on the ground sit it on a few phonebooks to do it

[kongfu]

any noticable difference after installation?

[kriZy]

UM...
i havn't installed it yet but i will on Saturday, will let you know then.

I did however install the ASR Brace but paused when getting up to the rear sway bar.

so the hard part's out of the way Dy__ :)

also guys, when you say "FINGER TIGHT"
some bolts dont screw in finger tight to hold (using thumb and index finger). You need to use a tool to screw it in so it easier to screw in but before the point where you start using to hands to tighten it.

that's what you mean by finger tight right?

[Limbo]

yeah tighten with hands first until all things r tightened.
Then go over all bolts twice just to make sure they are all tightened.
Usually its a good idea to have a look after a week or two to check that all the bolts are still tightened

[RtN]

the twinloop muffler itself does not matter but the axle back piping does as it could hit the sway bar. Just gotta install ur sway bar on first to see if it can fit. happened to two of my friends.

[JasonGilholme]

finger tight just means not torqued down. If you have to put the socket on and turn the socket to get the most of the way in thats fine. As long as you don't torque them down.

Another method is to jack up the hub so its got roughly the same amount of compression as when its actually lowered. Then torque them all and finish putting it on the ground.

[vinnY]

^ yep i personally use this technique since we usually bin all our phone books and i don't trust it to hold bricks

[kriZy]

hey all.
finally installed this all on saturday. didn't get time to take pics and upload etc.

will do this when i have time. thanks for all the help.

[bennjamin]

fantastic :)

remember to check it all out after 100 or so kms. Just to make sure everything is still tight.

[kriZy]

INSTALLED!

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/5482/img3149yi6.jpg

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/2002/img3154mc8.jpg

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/7514/img3158ef9.jpg

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/9662/yehzg1.jpg

http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/5615/yeh2wh9.jpg

Thanks for all the tips/advice all.

Car definately handles better in a way. Body roll has minimised alot.

[bennjamin]

dont take this the wrong way... but your swaybar is installed up side down.

If you have an aftermarket muffler or over-axle piping , probably dont bother redoing.
BUT i recommend you redo the swaybar the way it is designed to work.

[kriZy]

you sure dude?
cause that's the way that the old rear sway bar was in...
and besides that it will it fit into the LCA if its upside down?

[RtN]

yeh mate benn knows best,
here's mine and I put it on the way the stock was on..

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh84/RtN89/30112008461.jpg

and also look at the guys one in post #3.

and yes it can be in the LCA if its upside down.

[Limbo]

doesn't make too much difference i had to put mine upside down cos i couldn't fit the muffler under it otherwise

[kriZy]

Alright, i guess i'll change it.
i'll do it when i have free time.

[kriZy]

UPDATE!
i've changed it back and looked at the picture 10 million times to make sure lol.
all good now. i gotta say it sits really really close to the twin loop muffler, luckily it just makes it. Now i know why Limbo puts it on upside down.

There wasn't any difference with it being upside down but atleast i know its on right.
Kinda feels like it works better upside down imo lol.

cheers.

[JasonGilholme]

right way up > upside down.

well done man.

[Alvis]

reviving an old thread but it's a goodie - thanks for all the info guys :)

Good work kriZy!

Can I ask you what the main difference in handling is - and did you have any other suspension mods when you did it?

Basically what I'm saying is - is it worth it or not? And did you do front sway bars too>?

[Bludger]

alot of the time diy mechanics just guess it and tighten it to whatever they can.


alot of the time many professional mechanics do the exact same lol.
A lot of the time it is totally unnecessary to use a torque wrench and a competent mechanic be it pro or DIY will be able to re-tighten the fastener to the correct figure or close enough!!

LOL:p

[IV73CI]

old thread but good stuff

ill be tackling this on the weekend... ASR, Cusco RSB 25mm, Hardrace D bushings & Endlinks ..

hope all goes well with the twinloop muffler in the way ...

could i use Moly grease for the D bushings?

[stndrd]

If you are fitting the Cusco RSB it should theoretically come with bushing grease, otherwise you should be able to just go down to repco and buy some white bushing grease

[IV73CI]

If you are fitting the Cusco RSB it should theoretically come with bushing grease, otherwise you should be able to just go down to repco and buy some white bushing grease

white bushing grease eh? Black Moly grease no good? or too thick?

[stndrd]

Personally, I don't use Moly products. Super pro have white or grey bushing grease and thats what I use (I have an abundance of it at work)