[CU2] Black car, what to do?

[denot]

Hi All,

I've just seal the deal of 2008 CU2 Std Auto on Black colour today (delivered on the 14th) and was wondering (since this is my first black car) what do I need to do after it gets delivered.

Do I need to polish, sealant or anything just to make sure that the black colour is in pristine condition all the time? or should I just wash it normally every 2nd week or so and wait till after 1k service and start wax, etc on it?

Thanks heaps!

PS: Mods, if this thread doesnt belong to the Accord Euro forum can you move this to the car detailing forum?

Cheers

[tony1234]

Hi All,

I've just seal the deal of 2008 CU2 Std Auto on Black colour today (delivered on the 14th) and was wondering (since this is my first black car) what do I need to do after it gets delivered.

Do I need to polish, sealant or anything just to make sure that the black colour is in pristine condition all the time? or should I just wash it normally every 2nd week or so and wait till after 1k service and start wax, etc on it?

Thanks heaps!

PS: Mods, if this thread doesnt belong to the Accord Euro forum can you move this to the car detailing forum?

Cheers
Congrats.on the new car!Be prepared to wash it 1-2 times per fortnight and wax it approx.4 times a year.no extra work is needed to maintain it,it's just that black shows every scratch and mark.

[denot]

thanks tony... just want to know if its brand new should I apply anything or not... cheers :)

[Min988]

reduce swirl marks on black by using a lambswool mitt instead of a sponge when washing.

[denot]

Hmmm usualy I went to Crystal Car Wash coz I got cheap voucher for them... should I asked them about the swirl before I wash there?

[tim-e]

What Tony said. I just wash mine fortnightly and wax 4 times a year. There's an excellent car wash café next to my office at Gordon.

[buddah51au]

I would stay away from car washes altogether, get yourself a good lambswool mitt and a good quality detergent.

I will PM you with the results of a new product i am about to try.

Congrats on the new ride, you will be very happy

[denot]

^^^ thanks Buddah!!!! btw, how do you clean the lambwool after washing? mine usually stinks If I just left it hanged on the clothsline :(

[TRaNz]

I prefer using Microfiber wash mitt, then using microfiber waffleweave drying towel.
Ill wash with 3 buckets, one with the shampoo in it, one to rinse and one to wash wheels. the ones with shampoo and rinse will have warm water in it, which i get from home and bring to them DIY carwash joints. Yeah i get weird looks, little asian guy bring soo much just to wash a car. So ill do it at like 6am, when theres no one around. LOL

Id recommend that when u get to car wash, do a prerinse, so thatd be a high pressure rinse which will remove the debris, then high pressure soap, this will ensure more of the dirt on the vehicles exterior surfaces is removed. let it sit for 2 mins. The surfaces are not clean but will appear cleaner as there is less dirt on the surfaces. The washing now removes what is left on the vehicle with minimal dirt being pushed into the painted surfaces greatly reducing the chance of causing swirls (micro scratches).
then rinse off then start washing.

Umm, as for waxes, not too sure on wats the best, atm im sorta being lazy and just using Optimum Car Wax aka OCW, its pretty good, quick n easy to use. luved by the guys at FI, though theres a few alternative ones like P21S 100 Carnauba Wax, P21S Concours Wax, or SwissVax Onyx. Thers a few other Swissvax ones, but u be asking 300 bucks just for a small tub. Umm Sealants, theres Zaino Z2pro, Zaino Z5pro and Zaino Z-CS.

mm yeah....time for maccas...

[viper8548]

I prefer using Microfiber wash mitt, then using microfiber waffleweave drying towel.
Ill wash with 3 buckets, one with the shampoo in it, one to rinse and one to wash wheels. the ones with shampoo and rinse will have warm water in it, which i get from home and bring to them DIY carwash joints. Yeah i get weird looks, little asian guy bring soo much just to wash a car. So ill do it at like 6am, when theres no one around. LOL

Id recommend that when u get to car wash, do a prerinse, so thatd be a high pressure rinse which will remove the debris, then high pressure soap, this will ensure more of the dirt on the vehicles exterior surfaces is removed. let it sit for 2 mins. The surfaces are not clean but will appear cleaner as there is less dirt on the surfaces. The washing now removes what is left on the vehicle with minimal dirt being pushed into the painted surfaces greatly reducing the chance of causing swirls (micro scratches).
then rinse off then start washing.

Umm, as for waxes, not too sure on wats the best, atm im sorta being lazy and just using Optimum Car Wax aka OCW, its pretty good, quick n easy to use. luved by the guys at FI, though theres a few alternative ones like P21S 100 Carnauba Wax, P21S Concours Wax, or SwissVax Onyx. Thers a few other Swissvax ones, but u be asking 300 bucks just for a small tub. Umm Sealants, theres Zaino Z2pro, Zaino Z5pro and Zaino Z-CS.

mm yeah....time for maccas...

I do nearly exactly the same, wash with micro fibre cloth using different cloth of wash, rinse and dry. Also multiple buckets as mentioned above.

My first time owning a black car isnt as hard to maintain as i thought, not having a garage would be a totally different story tho. I was about 1-2 times a week and wax once every 1-2 months, still looks like new, I use all mequire products.

[euromax]

Hello to all black Euro owners :cool: I'm the owner of one too since 8th Jan and my pics is on the Post your euro thread.

Like every new owner, I too marvel at how shining and new the black Euro looks. I do my washes quite often (as I travel to and fro Sydney and Canberra weekly) about 1 or 2 times a week and after drying off I would apply a lite coat of Armourall Wax and Polish where I see light scratches and it would disappear and look like new again.

I love this car and the way it drives. Makes my weekly trip totally enjoyable.

[tony1234]

thanks tony... just want to know if its brand new should I apply anything or not... cheers :)
I using Megs NXT tech wax 2 at the moment(got given it for xmas)seems to be good,will know more after 6 mths.or so.Megs products are good products at a reasonable price.I'm sure there's better out there.Their ScratchX is excellent for minor scratches.

[MKI4EVA]

it's all down hill with black brother. best is to have under cover parking.........and to wash off crap from birds and bats like instantly. I noticed the paint on the thai FD's were very thin........hope it's thicker/stronger on the CU's.

[Type R Positive]

You can't go wrong with a good quality sealant. Makes washing the car very easy too.
Do you have a budget Denot?

[buddah51au]

Just carry a cloth & a bottle of quick detailer in the boot for unexpected droppings.

I never noticed a problem with paint on the FD's. What a lot of people fail to realise is that modern paints have changed so much, even compared to 5 years ago. All paints are now water based & the majority have a clear coat finish. I stand to be corrected bit my belief is their are only 3 or 4 companies worldwide that supply automotive paints.


it's all down hill with black brother. best is to have under cover parking.........and to wash off crap from birds and bats like instantly. I noticed the paint on the thai FD's were very thin........hope it's thicker/stronger on the CU's.

[Type R Positive]

Honda clear coat = soft.

[TRaNz]

Honda clear coat = soft.

LOL, yeah the one that mad me sad, when Damo from FI told me he disliked detailing Hondas coz they had soft paint.....apparently mine was a bitch....LOL.
But yeah stick with the washing process i do, that should really help minimise the swirls. For Wax/Sealants. If you want you can start of with Megs products. THey seem to be a popular pick with quite a few Euro Owners.

[denot]

You can't go wrong with a good quality sealant. Makes washing the car very easy too.
Do you have a budget Denot?

hmmm usually i spend around $30 for washing and $70 for waxing

[aaron]

first time gave my black CU2 a wash today, was pretty good to wash, but what took me long was drying the car. Anyone have any good advice on how to dry your car without leaving behind the water marks.After the wash i started off with a meguairs microfibre chamois and lifting the corners and dragging across the car. But after i thought everything was good i could see white water marks appear which i then had to go over with the damp chamois. any suggestions wud b good

[tony1234]

first time gave my black CU2 a wash today, was pretty good to wash, but what took me long was drying the car. Anyone have any good advice on how to dry your car without leaving behind the water marks.After the wash i started off with a meguairs microfibre chamois and lifting the corners and dragging across the car. But after i thought everything was good i could see white water marks appear which i then had to go over with the damp chamois. any suggestions wud b good
Take your car for a quick drive round the block straight after you've washed it,that gets rid of a fair bit of water on the car and also gets it out of places like the door and boot openings.Then chamois car in the shade.

[denot]

first time gave my black CU2 a wash today, was pretty good to wash, but what took me long was drying the car. Anyone have any good advice on how to dry your car without leaving behind the water marks.After the wash i started off with a meguairs microfibre chamois and lifting the corners and dragging across the car. But after i thought everything was good i could see white water marks appear which i then had to go over with the damp chamois. any suggestions wud b good

i feel ya mate... any other suggestion?

[aaron]

won't a quick drive round the block in a wet car make the dust stick more?

[tony1234]

won't a quick drive round the block in a wet car make the dust stick more?
No,not if you drive on a sealed road,it blows the water that's sitting on your car off.It's only a short drive round the block like 2-3 mins.I do it every time i wash my car.

[Joystick]

Just picked up my new black CU2 today.

What do you guys think of the automatic car washes at the servos? No go?

Or the brushless laser washes?

[kimnkk]

Grats on the new car!

Definitely don't visit those automated car washes, especially not with a black car. Unless of course, you like swirls galore. I don't know about those laser washes, but nothing is better than doing it yourself.

[Joystick]

Grats on the new car!

Definitely don't visit those automated car washes, especially not with a black car. Unless of course, you like swirls galore. I don't know about those laser washes, but nothing is better than doing it yourself.

Thanks Kimnkk,

I don't trust those multi function hoses at car lovers and similar places because when I washed my car there someone had used degreaser before me. There was residue still in the hose and totally stuffed my last cars paint job when I used the high pressure water hose. :(

I need a rain water tank so I can wash it at home....

[kimnkk]

You can use buckets of water to wash your car. Make sure you fill up the buckets when you're having a shower or something. :)

I've found that 4 buckets of water is enough if you're careful - 2 for the 2 bucket method (1 for rinsing the lamb's wool mit, 1 for washing liquid, 2 for rinsing off the car).

[denot]

Hi all, thanks for the recommendation... some questions I need to ask:
1. How do you wash the lamb's wool mit after the wash? It usualy smells and dirty if I just hang it on the clothesline to dry it off...
2. Unfortunately I dont have any undercover garrage to keep my black CU2. Any special treatment do i need to take?

Thanks heaps!

[Type R Positive]

Hi all, thanks for the recommendation... some questions I need to ask:
1. How do you wash the lamb's wool mit after the wash? It usualy smells and dirty if I just hang it on the clothesline to dry it off...
2. Unfortunately I dont have any undercover garrage to keep my black CU2. Any special treatment do i need to take?

Thanks heaps!
Just rinse it out good with water, leave out to dry and it's all good. Get in between the fibers when washing.
Mine is going on 5 years old come to think of it.
I will replace it with a MF one when I feel like it.

[tony1234]

Hi all, thanks for the recommendation... some questions I need to ask:
1. How do you wash the lamb's wool mit after the wash? It usualy smells and dirty if I just hang it on the clothesline to dry it off...
2. Unfortunately I dont have any undercover garrage to keep my black CU2. Any special treatment do i need to take?

Thanks heaps!
1)Get a microfibre one.All you is rinse it well and hang to dry.I chuck mine in the washing machine occasionally to get it really clean.
2)Wash your car every week and wax/polish every couple mths.That's about all you can do.:(

[TRaNz]

1)Get a microfibre one.All you is rinse it well and hang to dry.I chuck mine in the washing machine occasionally to get it really clean.
2)Wash your car every week and wax/polish every couple mths.That's about all you can do.:(

+1
Microfiber all the way man.

[kimnkk]

Check out www.chemguys.com.au (http://www.chemguys.com.au/Microfiber_Towels_And_Accessories_s/18.htm)

They seem to have insane prices on microfibre cloths and gear. And some of their washes aren't bad either. Will definitely be ordering from them next time.

[Joystick]

So do you guys take you car down to the self serve car wash bays or wash at home with buckets? Or a combination of both?

[TRaNz]

take car down to DIY and wash it my way.....just use their high pressure hoses coz its win....

[denot]

take car down to DIY and wash it my way.....just use their high pressure hoses coz its win....

wat about their soap scrubs thingy? I thought its bad for the car :(

[EGJOE]

scrubs are bad will leave swirls
As a general rule everytime I buy a new bottle of car wash I get a new sponge as well.

[TRaNz]

refer to my first post i made in this thread....actually ill quote myself....


I prefer using Microfiber wash mitt, then using microfiber waffleweave drying towel.
Ill wash with 3 buckets, one with the shampoo in it, one to rinse and one to wash wheels. the ones with shampoo and rinse will have warm water in it, which i get from home and bring to them DIY carwash joints. Yeah i get weird looks, little asian guy bring soo much just to wash a car. So ill do it at like 6am, when theres no one around. LOL

Id recommend that when u get to car wash, do a prerinse, so thatd be a high pressure rinse which will remove the debris, then high pressure soap, this will ensure more of the dirt on the vehicles exterior surfaces is removed. let it sit for 2 mins. The surfaces are not clean but will appear cleaner as there is less dirt on the surfaces. The washing now removes what is left on the vehicle with minimal dirt being pushed into the painted surfaces greatly reducing the chance of causing swirls (micro scratches).
then rinse off then start washing.

Umm, as for waxes, not too sure on wats the best, atm im sorta being lazy and just using Optimum Car Wax aka OCW, its pretty good, quick n easy to use. luved by the guys at FI, though theres a few alternative ones like P21S 100 Carnauba Wax, P21S Concours Wax, or SwissVax Onyx. Thers a few other Swissvax ones, but u be asking 300 bucks just for a small tub. Umm Sealants, theres Zaino Z2pro, Zaino Z5pro and Zaino Z-CS.

mm yeah....time for maccas...


I onli go to the DIY washes so i can use their high pressure hoses, thats it. The rest i bring of my own.

[Type R Positive]

So do you guys take you car down to the self serve car wash bays or wash at home with buckets? Or a combination of both?Combo.
With slick sealant on the car, I just use the HP soap and water at the car wash. Dirt and crap comes straight off! I do it when I CBF'ed washing at home.

MF drying towel after wards all the way! :thumbsup:

[arthhtra]

Good Luck mate, I never knew of swirl marks until i got my black Cu2. Had a silver car before which i wipe with a dirty towel. THe paint still looks like new dispite 7 years old. While the black... you'll find out soon

[buddah51au]

I agree 100%. Unless you have lots of free time & you enjoy detailing cars I dont believe they are a practicle long term proposition. But in saying that nothing looks better than a freshly detailed black car. 5 to 10 years down the track you may wish you had chosen a different colour.



Good Luck mate, I never knew of swirl marks until i got my black Cu2. Had a silver car before which i wipe with a dirty towel. THe paint still looks like new dispite 7 years old. While the black... you'll find out soon

[denot]

5 to 10 years down the track you may wish you had chosen a different colour.

hahahah no buddah! after 5-10 years, it wont be black no more... when I hand it down to my wife, it will have diff colour ;) so its a win-win for me? :p

[nickxau]

Just picked up my new black CU2 today.

What do you guys think of the automatic car washes at the servos? No go?

Or the brushless laser washes?

I used to use the Car Lovers laser car wash but that was when I had an old silver Celica. It's good in the sense that nothing touches your car during the wash and it's better than the brush-type car washes@servos but nothing beats a bit of elbow grease on a weekend.

The best bit about hand washing is the satisfaction that you get when you end up a dirt boy (or gal :p) and look back and see a shining car smiling back at you!

Knowing that you did that all on your own... PRICELESS! :cool:

[buddah51au]

so what will u do, respray it pink or something.......lol. Realistically, if you maintain it properly with the right waxes & or glaze treatments it should still be in reasonable condition, but that will take a lot of effort on your part, or find a good detailer. If you like you could contact bob jones on this forum as I believe he does detailing. At least he could lead you in the right direction. He gave me some advice & the car is 1/2 done at the moment, I will finish it tomorrow.


hahahah no buddah! after 5-10 years, it wont be black no more... when I hand it down to my wife, it will have diff colour ;) so its a win-win for me? :p

[Dilan]

Those laser washes cause streak marks and the harsh detergents means that the car will have to be waxed much more frequently. Also don't have a clue as to how good the filters are on these things but if a tiny tiny particle of dirt gets through...wouldnt want to think about the damage it would do when sprayed at high pressure at your brand new paint.

[denot]

so what will u do, respray it pink or something.......lol. Realistically, if you maintain it properly with the right waxes & or glaze treatments it should still be in reasonable condition, but that will take a lot of effort on your part, or find a good detailer. If you like you could contact bob jones on this forum as I believe he does detailing. At least he could lead you in the right direction. He gave me some advice & the car is 1/2 done at the moment, I will finish it tomorrow.

hahaha not pink for sure... :p anyway I'll have to try my best to keep the car in the best condition then... :)

[Joystick]

Just looking at the Meguiar's website...

Thinking about getting the NXT Gen Tech Wax and some car wash. Do I need anything else? Like some type of polishing product?

I've got everything else like applicators, microfibre cloths, chamois etc...

[tony1234]

Just looking at the Meguiar's website...

Thinking about getting the NXT Gen Tech Wax and some car wash. Do I need anything else? Like some type of polishing product?

I've got everything else like applicators, microfibre cloths, chamois etc...
The tech wax seems good.Also get the NXT wash it's excellent.

[Joystick]

Just found a very handy thread on the Meguiar's forum about cleaning your vehicle.

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2409

[buddah51au]

I have been using Meguiars for more years than i can count, but knowing their product has slipped since being taken over by 3M I wanted to re evaluate the products I have been using.

At the recommendation of Bob Jones on this forum I rang David from waxit.com.au. His recommendation was Pinnicle light Swirl Remover/Paint Cleaner followed by Duragloss DG111. After spending the last day and a half detailing the car as recommended I would have no hesitation at all in recommending these products to anyone.

Very easy to use, a pure reflective shine and a finish that is smoother than anything I have seen before. A perfect finish. Only time will tell how long it lasts. Regardless of car colour these products would be my recommendation and no more expensive than Meguiars.

[Type R Positive]

Just looking at the Meguiar's website...

Thinking about getting the NXT Gen Tech Wax and some car wash. Do I need anything else? Like some type of polishing product?

I've got everything else like applicators, microfibre cloths, chamois etc...paint cleaner & clay bar

[denot]

hi guys,

finally i've done my first wash n wax on the cu2...

this is what i did (note that I was in a rush today when i do it)
1. Wash using Turtle Car Wash (leftover from my civic)
2. dry with armour all camois + microfiber cloth
3. wax with Meguiars Gold Class Wax
4. wipe with microfiber cloth...

the result might not be the best, but I'm still happy ^_^

some pics: http://ozhonda.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2140876&postcount=94

[nickxau]

Take your car for a quick drive round the block straight after you've washed it,that gets rid of a fair bit of water on the car and also gets it out of places like the door and boot openings.Then chamois car in the shade.

Is there something wrong with my car or the paintwork/protectant/sealant on the car? :confused: After washing, sometimes I drive around the block (or after it has rained) but the water seems to "stick" to the bonnet? Or is it coz I don't drive fast enough? :p I've waxed the car and can see the water beading and all on the bonnet but they just don't seem to fly away? Is it just the aerodynamics of the bonnet design maybe :confused:

One more question - what's the difference b/w a sealant and wax. Is sealant just an umbrella term for something you apply to your car after washing which includes wax or are they 2 separate things all together?

[Type R Positive]

One more question - what's the difference b/w a sealant and wax. Is sealant just an umbrella term for something you apply to your car after washing which includes wax or are they 2 separate things all together?
http://www.autogeek.net/qude101.html

Sealants are synthetic waxes. :thumbsup:

[buddah51au]

Is there something wrong with my car or the paintwork/protectant/sealant on the car? :confused: After washing, sometimes I drive around the block (or after it has rained) but the water seems to "stick" to the bonnet? Or is it coz I don't drive fast enough? :p I've waxed the car and can see the water beading and all on the bonnet but they just don't seem to fly away? Is it just the aerodynamics of the bonnet design maybe :confused:

One more question - what's the difference b/w a sealant and wax. Is sealant just an umbrella term for something you apply to your car after washing which includes wax or are they 2 separate things all together?

Driving your car around the block after washing it to remove most of the water ..... that makes a lot of sense as you will pick up dust particles & some road grime. you then chamois the car so this practice will add significantly to swirl marks & other paint imperfections.

Think of a good sealant as giving you a better longer lasting finish than a wax if done correctly

[nickxau]

Driving your car around the block after washing it to remove most of the water ..... that makes a lot of sense as you will pick up dust particles & some road grime. you then chamois the car so this practice will add significantly to swirl marks & other paint imperfections.

Think of a good sealant as giving you a better longer lasting finish than a wax if done correctly

hmmm... i like Type R Positive's explanation on sealant vs. wax better, yours doesn't really make sense... :p

What would you suggest then buddah51au, to get the water outta all the little nooks and crannies?

[Type R Positive]

What would you suggest then to get the water outta all the little nooks and crannies?Microfiber cloth.

Water will stick to my car after I wash it, but most of it slides off. I just use a microfiber drying towel instead of a chamois. No swirl marks!

[buddah51au]

hmmm... i like Type R Positive's explanation on sealant vs. wax better, yours doesn't really make sense... :p

What would you suggest then buddah51au, to get the water outta all the little nooks and crannies?


I use 4 chamois, 1 for external paintwork, 1 for inside door jams & inside boot, 1 for wheels, 1 for under bonnet / engine bay.

Last 3 get washed after each use.

I just spent A weekend on my car with a clay bar, followed by a paint cleaner / swirl remover, followed by a sealant. All I will say is after using Meguiars for many years, my days of using wax are over. The Sealant recommended to me is so much better

[Type R Positive]

I just spent A weekend on my car with a clay bar, followed by a paint cleaner / swirl remover, followed by a sealant. All I will say is after using Meguiars for many years, my days of using wax are over. The Sealant recommended to me is so much better
1. You need one of these like me! http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/meguiars/dual_action_polisher
2. Wax sucks! Sealants kick arse!

[denot]

1. You need one of these like me! http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/meguiars/dual_action_polisher
2. Wax sucks! Sealants kick arse!

hahahah Type R, you are close! Buddah use some of tthe products from that website as well, and believe me it works like magic!!!! I will change/throw my Meguiars Gold Class for the product he used later on... and the price is only 1/2 of the price of the Gold Class!!!! :thumbsup:

[nickxau]

DAMN~! you guys are just trying to con me into spending money aren't ya's? :p

[tiksie]

1)Get a microfibre one.All you is rinse it well and hang to dry.I chuck mine in the washing machine occasionally to get it really clean.
2)Wash your car every week and wax/polish every couple mths.That's about all you can do.:(

You realize washing detergant contains salts ? Which will end up on your towel, which will end up on your painT!

[denot]

You realize washing detergant contains salts ? Which will end up on your towel, which will end up on your painT!

ya... never wash using washing detergent :thumbdwn:

[buddah51au]

DAMN~! you guys are just trying to con me into spending money aren't ya's? :p

Costs no more than Meguiars for a much better result .......just go to waxit.com.au & talk to David..... see if he recommends the same products to you as he did me. All I can say is 1 application & I am converted for life

[buddah51au]

1. You need one of these like me! http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/meguiars/dual_action_polisher
2. Wax sucks! Sealants kick arse!

I will stick with elbow grease as it is what I know. I would hate to use a Buffing Machine & stuff up the paintwork

[Type R Positive]

I will stick with elbow grease as it is what I know. I would hate to use a Buffing Machine & stuff up the paintwork
LOL! very hard to stuff up the paint with a random orbital! Can leave it on the one spot for ages. ;)
My results are far more stunning now then I could ever get before.
Doing the paint work now takes 1/2 the time and none of the effort! :thumbsup:

[buddah51au]

LOL! very hard to stuff up the paint with a random orbital! Can leave it on the one spot for ages. ;)
My results are far more stunning now then I could ever get before.
Doing the paint work now takes 1/2 the time and none of the effort! :thumbsup:


Maybe I am too old to change TypeR, in one sense i would love to give it a go as i know it would get rid of more of the swirl marks, but I also worry about stuffing something up. On the other hand I don't work, so it gives me something to do...... who else would be crazy enough to take wheels off & give them the full treatment......lol. At least it filled in a day.

[Type R Positive]

Maybe I am too old to change TypeR, in one sense i would love to give it a go as i know it would get rid of more of the swirl marks, but I also worry about stuffing something up. On the other hand I don't work, so it gives me something to do...... who else would be crazy enough to take wheels off & give them the full treatment......lol. At least it filled in a day.
LOL! I've been thinking seriously about tasking my wheels off and giving them the full treatment too! Coat them up good in sealant.
Must be something about car enthusiasts? :thumbsup:

[buddah51au]

I will add that the car had its first bath today since the sealant treatment, the wheels & whole car actually is so much easier to clean. Water beads much better than wax.

[Type R Positive]

I will add that the car had its first bath today since the sealant treatment, the wheels & whole car actually is so much easier to clean. Water beads much better than wax.
True that! :thumbsup:

I laugh every time it rains. My car just sparkles, while others next to it look like shit.

[denot]

True that! :thumbsup:

I laugh every time it rains. My car just sparkles, while others next to it look like shit.

oh man... i feel like I've stop next to yours then... mine look crap today... somehow the wax dust thingy now coming out and looks weird :(

[buddah51au]

oh man... i feel like I've stop next to yours then... mine look crap today... somehow the wax dust thingy now coming out and looks weird :(

Denot, without trying to upset you, you commented that you spent 1 1/2 hours applying Meguiars Gold class wax to your car. That is a top coat only of canuba wax, basically you did no preparation work before applying a wax so you can't expect a half decent result. Always remember detailing a car is like anything else....95% of the end result is achieved through preparation which sadly in your case was non existent.

To do the job properly you need to follow the right procedure (I did email you the correct way to do it) and than you will see a big difference in the end result.

[denot]

hey buddah sorry for the misleading... just found out the white dust thingy come from the tree next door. :( dunno what is it but I think I better wash it off and buy a car cover for night :(

[buddah51au]

hey buddah sorry for the misleading... just found out the white dust thingy come from the tree next door. :( dunno what is it but I think I better wash it off and buy a car cover for night :(

If your going to buy a car cover make sure it has a felt back (so it doesn't scuff the paint) & only use it on a clean car. If you have dust or dirt on the car the worst thing you can do is put a car cover on

Fits standard vehicles 4.58m to 4.88m in length Brand: Sunland Part number: CC42. That is the cover to get - Auto Barn stock them - about $200

[loki78]

Does anyone find that after waxing the car, it seems to attract a lot of dust? I've read that some of the wax or sealant may attract more dust but is there any way to reduce or prevent this? Or do you just have to wash it more frequent?

[Type R Positive]

Does anyone find that after waxing the car, it seems to attract a lot of dust? I've read that some of the wax or sealant may attract more dust but is there any way to reduce or prevent this? Or do you just have to wash it more frequent?
Mine gets pretty dusty, don't think it attracts it though...
Just seems to be more noticeable with flash paint work.
Wash more frequently, or use super slick sealant! ;)

[Muzzy]

Just a question regarding waxing/sealant and polish.

I have paint protection and Nature Guard on my car that was applied before I picked it up from the dealer. I was told that since this was applied I wouldn't need to use waxes or polish.

I've washed the car once (normal bucket wash) and it's quite shiny.

Is it correct in that I shouldn't be using wax or polish?

[denot]

Just a question regarding waxing/sealant and polish.

I have paint protection and Nature Guard on my car that was applied before I picked it up from the dealer. I was told that since this was applied I wouldn't need to use waxes or polish.

I've washed the car once (normal bucket wash) and it's quite shiny.

Is it correct in that I shouldn't be using wax or polish?

Wait for another 3-4 months and you should find out that the dealer is lying :thumbdwn:

[Muzzy]

Wait for another 3-4 months and you should find out that the dealer is lying :thumbdwn:

There is lifetime warranty for the paint protection and nature guard so if that ever happens I can always take it back to them and demand a re-coat / refund...

[denot]

There is lifetime warranty for the paint protection and nature guard so if that ever happens I can always take it back to them and demand a re-coat / refund...

Hahaha have you read the "fine print" that they told me there's none? If you've read them, you should know why I decide not to go with this option at the end (eventho my car is black)

[Muzzy]

Hahaha have you read the "fine print" that they told me there's none? If you've read them, you should know why I decide not to go with this option at the end (eventho my car is black)


1- No I didn't read the fine print and it would be good if you actually explained why rather than being a smart a$$. :thumbdwn:

2- Unless you can prove to me that the protection coating will actually die in a few months I will remain confident that it is better to have the protection than not.

[denot]

1- No I didn't read the fine print and it would be good if you actually explained why rather than being a smart a$$. :thumbdwn:

2- Unless you can prove to me that the protection coating will actually die in a few months I will remain confident that it is better to have the protection than not.

1. WOW!!!! thats offensive dude... never thought my comment to help you actually make me beinga smart ass... :( You can pm a lot of people here who has tried the nano tech, nature guard, etc and not happy with them after a while. Regarding the fine print, one of them says that you need to regularly wash the car using their car wash product (not any other product, not even top of the range product from different brand) minimum forthnightly. Another said something like eventhough inspection is not needed, but you still need to bring back the car for inspection every 6-12 months otherwise the warranty will be void... Now, perhaps we are offered 2 diff thing from 2 diff dealer, so PLEASE do not quote what I said here to the dealer as a legal action (so I wont look like a smart ass for you or other people you talked to)

2. if you that confident, then no point asking your initial question here in the forum then... just trust the dealer mate... :thumbsup:

Anyway, all in all its your car, your decision. So hope you enjoy your purchase since its a great car!!! :thumbsup:

[buddah51au]

Paint protection is no better than a medium quality wax. Dealers sell it to make money full stop.
You will find in 4 to 6 months it will need a good detail. You will know when it is required as the water will stop beading on the paint when it rains, or when you wash it.

What Denot said is correct, not a smart ass comment.

[Muzzy]

1. WOW!!!! thats offensive dude... never thought my comment to help you actually make me beinga smart ass... :( You can pm a lot of people here who has tried the nano tech, nature guard, etc and not happy with them after a while. Regarding the fine print, one of them says that you need to regularly wash the car using their car wash product (not any other product, not even top of the range product from different brand) minimum forthnightly. Another said something like eventhough inspection is not needed, but you still need to bring back the car for inspection every 6-12 months otherwise the warranty will be void... Now, perhaps we are offered 2 diff thing from 2 diff dealer, so PLEASE do not quote what I said here to the dealer as a legal action (so I wont look like a smart ass for you or other people you talked to)



Thanks buddy, that was MUCH better explanation of why you didn't choose to go for it. Whereas initially I felt I was just laughed at!

Well I've already got the protection on there so I think I will just continue to use their product. I'm willing to get it serviced at the dealer for the first few times anyway so that's no issue as well. All a first time experience so it's going to be interesting how the dealer does the servicing, so far no complaints. Got a great deal and good service.

Cheers :thumbsup:

[denot]

Thanks buddy, that was MUCH better explanation of why you didn't choose to go for it. Whereas initially I felt I was just laughed at!

Well I've already got the protection on there so I think I will just continue to use their product. I'm willing to get it serviced at the dealer for the first few times anyway so that's no issue as well. All a first time experience so it's going to be interesting how the dealer does the servicing, so far no complaints. Got a great deal and good service.

Cheers :thumbsup:

Glad we sort out our differences there Muzzy :) Anyway, let me know the what you think about the Nature Guard after a few months. keep us informed mate :thumbsup:

[buddah51au]

Count your losses, learn from the experience and get yourself a good quality paint cleaner & sealant, add some elbow grease and you will get a far better job done then you will from a dealer

[HunterZero]

I have to relate this one - Right after I signed on the line for my black CL9, they sent the 'paint protection' lady over to try and sell me a fancy expensive sealant coating. Notice how it's always a lady that the paint protection people use to peddle their wares? They definitely prey on the new car owner's emotional state towards their shiny new car at the time of sale to make a buck.

She held in her hands a binder with miraculous 'before' and 'after' shots... But the most hilarious thing was the binder's cover. One side was clean, the other looked brown, crusty and rusty! I laughed out loud when I saw that. First she offered a $2000 (!!) 'permanent' package, but when that was declined, she offered a $400 'paint protection' treatment, which I suspect was just some standard paint sealant.

As I sternly refused all her sales pitches, her parting shot was, "Well, don't complain when your car looks like this in 6 months time!", indicating the rusty side of her folder! Hadn't laughed so hard in ages, I think she was offended...

Oh... And my black car still looks as good as the day it rolled out of the factory, almost 2 years later.

Trouble with sealant is, if your car ever needs even minor paint repairs, you have to send it back for re-application of the 'protection' coat as well - although this is usually free. Reputable body shops will usually ask you if you have paint protection.

My wife had paint protectant on her previous red car - and you'd never know, the paint faded and oxidised just as fast, if not faster. Even after they re-did it, it faded again within 12 months. I had a 20 year old red Accord that looked better than her car.

Paint protection and sealant will reduce the clarity and brilliance of black paint, and you risk the dealer doing damage if you get them to apply it. You will still need a topcoat of wax for black to look its best and for metallic flakes to stand out, or it doesn't look as dark, and looks like it's wrapped in cling film. The less you do to black paint, the better it will look.

Best option for black is to garage it, and wash it carefully with good quality wash using a microfibre wash mitt, and dry with microfibre towels using a quick detailer spray to lubricate. Avoid using any pressure on the paint, just glide across it while washing. At the very least, you should wax it every few months when it needs it.

You can apply a sealant yourself that will last 6 months or so, eg Klasse All In One, then top it in wax. The metal flake might not look quite as clear/brilliant, but the shine will last a lot longer than wax alone. If you go this route, you will also need a paint cleaner/clay bar to prepare the paint when you reapply the sealant. It's essential that the paint is squeaky clean before you apply a sealant.

Keep a microfibre towel and quick detailer in the boot, for any bird dirt that hits it. Bird dirt can mess up your paint, protectant or not, but sealant does reduce the chance that it will burn into your paint, or might buy you some more time before it does so. Don't take the risk, get rid of it as soon as you see it.

If you don't have a garage, spare yourself the hours of cleaning and don't get black, or learn not to mind it looking grotty 90% of the time, for the 10% of the time when it looks brilliant.

- HZ

[denot]

Thanks for the help there HZ!!! A quick note regarding your comment here:



Best option for black is to garage it
...
...
...

If you don't have a garage, spare yourself the hours of cleaning and don't get black, or learn not to mind it looking grotty 90% of the time, for the 10% of the time when it looks brilliant.

- HZ

The purpose of this thread when I start it is coz I bought myself a black car and atm I'm staying in the place where I cant use the garrage (it full of stuff). So I want a help from ppl on how to maintain the looks of the car. Its kinda too late for "do not buy black if you dont have garage" suggestion.

But I'm happy with your suggestion regarding sealant and all, as Buddah told me (again and again) Paint protection/Sealant and top it of with a great Wax/Polish will be the best option for me... cheers!!! ^_^

[HunterZero]

Its kinda too late for "do not buy black if you dont have garage" suggestion.

Haha! Whoops.

Ah well.

Don't leave it dirty after rain for more than 1 week. Wash every 2-4 weeks as it needs it carefully to avoid fine scratches as described using the double bucket method, washing top to bottom and wash wheels/weel arches last with a separate mitt/sponge, and get some quick detailer for drying and to touch up between washes for problem spots/bugs/bird doo, and you'll be fine.

Remember every time you wash it, you'll wear a bit of sealant/wax off, and there's a small chance you'll add small scratches to the paint. If you find you are washing more often, you'll have to re-apply the sealant sooner. Don't skimp on the paint cleaner step when time comes to re-do the sealant, the paint should feel as nice as the day you bought it before applying more sealant.

Pretty soon you'll find a wash/cleaner/sealant system that you're happy with and enjoy using. It seems everyone has a personal preference. Modern clear coats are a lot more durable than uncoated paint surfaces of old.

But I will say, a clay bar is magic for removing tree sap and other crap that bonds to the paint, and restoring that nice smooth feel to the paint prior to sealant.

The "WOW!" factor just after you wash a black car is well worth it.

- HZ

[buddah51au]

Haha! Whoops.

Ah well.

Don't leave it dirty after rain for more than 1 week. Wash every 2-4 weeks as it needs it carefully to avoid fine scratches as described using the double bucket method, washing top to bottom and wash wheels/weel arches last with a separate mitt/sponge, and get some quick detailer for drying and to touch up between washes for problem spots/bugs/bird doo, and you'll be fine.

Remember every time you wash it, you'll wear a bit of sealant/wax off, and there's a small chance you'll add small scratches to the paint. If you find you are washing more often, you'll have to re-apply the sealant sooner. Don't skimp on the paint cleaner step when time comes to re-do the sealant, the paint should feel as nice as the day you bought it before applying more sealant.

Pretty soon you'll find a wash/cleaner/sealant system that you're happy with and enjoy using. It seems everyone has a personal preference. Modern clear coats are a lot more durable than uncoated paint surfaces of old.

But I will say, a clay bar is magic for removing tree sap and other crap that bonds to the paint, and restoring that nice smooth feel to the paint prior to sealant.

The "WOW!" factor just after you wash a black car is well worth it.

- HZ

I do things in reverse as recommended by most professional detailers - Wheels & wheel arches first using 2 old wash mits. That way the water isn't drying on your paint while your doing the wheels. Then start with a clean bucket to do the car top to bottom.

[denot]

I do wheel n tyres wth sponge and the body with microfibre mit... one thing I forgot is to use seperate bucket for each :(

[buddah51au]

I do wheel n tyres wth sponge and the body with microfibre mit... one thing I forgot is to use seperate bucket for each :(
Denot, try using a 1:10 solution of degreaser / water to spray your wheels & inside wheel arches before you start, makes it a lot easier. Also go to a bunnings store and get a few small round spounges on the end of a long plastic handle, great for doing inside the rims, you are able to get to the inner edge of the rim with no problem

[nickxau]

Bunnings Warehouse! Where lowest prices are just the beginning... if you happen to find a similar stocked item at a cheaper price, we'll beat it by TEN percent!

Sorry, just couldn't resist posting that. Did I just waste $6 on my MF towels at Bunnings? Saw the el-cheapo towels for $2 each and grabbed 3 but they just seem so thin? Where can I get the think plush ones for a reasonable price?

[buddah51au]

Bunnings Warehouse! Where lowest prices are just the beginning... if you happen to find a similar stocked item at a cheaper price, we'll beat it by TEN percent!

Sorry, just couldn't resist posting that. Did I just waste $6 on my MF towels at Bunnings? Saw the el-cheapo towels for $2 each and grabbed 3 but they just seem so thin? Where can I get the think plush ones for a reasonable price?


Very True....Bunnings sell crap, but our local store sells small round spounges on the end of a 6" plastic handle, great for cleaning inside wheels. Only last about 4 wash's, but @ $3 each who cares.

Cheap good quality Micro Fiber towels ..... no such thing. Go to your local Auto shop or order online @ waxit.com.au along with all your quality detailing needs. Damm ......... They are out of stock on there great glass cleaner.

[avantgarde84]

Hi there, another Euro owner reporting in. I believe this is my very first post in this forum (and in this thread), and while I have been earnestly reading nearly every thread about this fantastic car, I have never felt as compelled to post something in this thread till my car suffered a scuff on the left rear passenger door while trying to manoeuvre out of my garage this morning!!! I wont be going into the details of what happened just so that I wont seem to be hijacking this thread, but more importantly I would like to inform you guys that I ALSO OWN A BLACK EURO!!! Ok Im new here so I dont even have pics to show yet and nothing on my avatar, but I hope to be able to share the little knowledge I have got and to learn from you guys.

Anyway, I bought my Euro Lux in mid January, which was an Ex demo from a dealer in Brisbane. I went for black because it was the only Lux demo available in that colour and I also thought it looked awesomely beautiful. And as what someone mentioned here, I too was approached by a beautiful blonde who convinced me to get paint protection for my beautiful black car! No, her binder wasnt rusty this time. After telling me what good the paint protection will do for my car and the lifetime warranty, I was sold. Ended up paying something like $500+ (discounted apparently) for the paint protection and another $300+ for leather interior protection. The idea was that the car will be coated with what seems to be teflon and the paint will be as smooth as a Tefal non-stick frying pan.

Well it wasnt all bullcrap to be frank, or maybe it has only been just 2 months. The surface does feel smoother than non-paint protected surfaces, and washing and removing any dirt/poo from the surface is like lifting a sunny-side up egg from a non-stick pan. Easy and nice. As to how long it will stay on the paint surface? Only time will tell. Lifetime warranty! Yes there's the fine print of risking losing the warranty if you do not wash the car frequently enough AND if you do not use THEIR car wash solution. Oh and also, you are NOT allowed to wax your Teflon coated car. Didn't realise till I reached home and read the print. What am I using to wash my car now? It's called Sparkling Wash by this company called Poly Glaze which all of you would know is available from any Super Cheap Auto. A chamois to wash and rinse, and another Turtle Wax microfibre cloth to dry (NO streaks left behind!). Do this once a fortnight as my car is always garaged and parked in undercover parking in the hospital I work.

So there's the possibility of the 'Teflon' coating coming undone with time as some of you have said here. I could live with that and get them to redo it since its lifetime warranty. But the bigger problem I have now which I never realised is, what if the car needs paint work done?!!! The fresh area will be without paint protection isnt it? So will this void the warranty for the other protected areas? If yes do you need to add in the cost of protecting the little area that got re-sprayed? I will be taking shots of my cars left rear door which got scuffed and see what you guys say about doing it up later. Quote for fixing the little dent at the left rear door panel (the panel between the left rear door and wheel arch) plus paint work is $411. Excluding potential cost for paint protection of that area. Point is, is paint protection a scam or a real lifetime solution to tiresome waxing/sealing???

[buddah51au]

You judge that for yourself as time passes. If you have read all the threads, googled paint protection systems, you should already have a good idea. Just remember as soon as water stops beading on the paint your protection is gone.

Hopefully they do a good repair job for you.

[HunterZero]

avantgarde84, sorry to hear about your 'incident'.

To remove the scratches, at the very least they are going to have to abrasively re-buff the paint, if not respray the affected panels. For the price they've quoted, I'd imagine the scratches aren't deep and they won't need to respray, they're just going to pop the dent out and buff out the scuffs? Either way, any sealant/protectant on the surface will be gone in that area.

You'll need to check with the people who did your paint protection about re-application in that area and any associated cost, but usually they'll do it free of charge for you.

At less than 2 months, it's way to early to tell if it has made any long term difference, since even a coat of wax (which is the least durable) will last that long and should still bead water and make your car look great after a wash, especially if the car is kept undercover almost all of the time. Off-the-shelf sealants will last 6-8 months or so, and since you garage your car and keep it undercover, I'd say this will make the biggest difference, so it could be 12 months before you notice any difference with such products.

Anyway, time will tell. Best of luck!

- HZ

[denot]

Actually I did asked the dealer before regarding this... And the response...
1. If I purchase the Honda Insurance, then the paint protection is included and will be reaply when I make a claim
2. They offer me another product which will fix any small damage to the car and paint protection (cant remember the name, coz I'm not really interested at all) She show me some before and after pics of small section of cars with paint protection with scratch, etc If I purchase this "insurance" product.

Well... all the best with the fix mate...

[Type R Positive]

After telling me what good the paint protection will do for my car and the lifetime warranty, I was sold.
The chick was hot, wasn't she? They sucked you in good!!!!


Ended up paying something like $500+ (discounted apparently) for the paint protection and another $300+ for leather interior protection. Fark me dead! :eek:

[denot]

The chick was hot, wasn't she? They sucked you in good!!!!


HAHAHA, the one who offered me the product was hot as well!!! Lucky I went and sit together with my wife :p Save me another $1200!!! XD

[HunterZero]

Yeah, the $2000 I was quoted was for some complete paint, interior and rust protection package. Could not believe how much they were asking! Especially considering that improvements in clear coat technology means they are more durable so sealants/waxes are not really as necessary as they used to be on paint without clear coat, and all cars are treated for anti-corrosion at the factory.

- HZ

[tony1234]

NEVER buy that paint/leather carpet protection from the dealer.It's soooo overpriced.All they do is outsource it to companies that you and i can buy it from at about a quarter of what they charge you.If you really want that crap go to one of those places and at least you'll save some money.:thumbdwn:

[Type R Positive]

I've never heard of leather protection actually, and can't see how this could ever work?

But for the fabric protection - scotchguard - can be brought at any Woolies or Coles for like $5 a can! ;)

[avantgarde84]

Well I never actually heard of paint protection for black vehicles until the day I signed the contract to buy the Euro, so I never got the chance to even go home to think about it or do a Google search or post a thread up this forum to get some advice. It was all happening so fast on the late Saturday afternoon, and already being ecstatic about owning the car I guess I just wouldnt bear let my new baby suffer any potential damage (at least that's what the salesgirl said would happen if I didnt get the protection). The leather protection thing is basically to say that if there were any butt (yes your bum) marks or signs of wear from sitting on the seats they will somehow replace the worn leather seat. There are also few common causes of leather seat wear that this treatment protects again, and on hindsight this actually sounded more plausible than the paint protection. Well well like it or not money already paid, just gotta suck it up I guess.

Anyway back to the paint story... Yes the scuffs on my left rear door arent deep at all. After using turpentine to remove the green paint (which came from my f***ing neighbours car's bumper) from my door and rims, all I have left now are white streaks which I believe is the undercoat beneath the black paint. Then there is the dent, which I may be able to turn a blind eye as it's not really that obvious. Its the white streaks that make the dent stand out. Solution? Rang Honda to ask about the touchup paint, only had the Night Hawk Black from the CL9 but none in stock for the CU2. Ordering stock for me, arriving next Tuesday. Will try touching up the white areas and put up pics. And obviously I should be putting up the Before pics soon. It's $20+ for a 15ml touch up paint bottle btw.

[HunterZero]

The white you are seeing is most likely the scratched clear coat, unless it's obviously scratched down to metal. Clear coat turns white when it gets stressed, just like plastic does. You can test how deep the scratches are by gently running your fingernail over them. If your fingernall clicks/catches, then the scratch is deep. If it only catches barely or not at all, then it's possible the scratch hasn't broken the clear and can be buffed out. You'll probably find up to 90% of the scuff can be buffed out - or all of it if you're lucky. You can then get paintless dent removal done on the dent, cost about $60-$80 per panel.

Touch-up paint will never look as good as a proper repair, especially on a side panel where it can be easily seen. But on metallic paint, if the paint is scratched through the clear, they're going to have to strip and re-do the entire door. Not sure what is the going rate for this in your area, but in Sydney it's about $800.

Do yourself a favour, forget about trying touch-up paint until you've taken it to a reputable detailer at a body shop to see if the scratches can be machine buffed out. You'll at least minimise the amount of touch-up paint required for it.

If it needs it, and you decide to go the respray route, you'll get the best results if the paint shop uses Glasurit or PPG paint.

- HZ

[denot]

Well I never actually heard of paint protection for black vehicles until the day I signed the contract to buy the Euro, so I never got the chance to even go home to think about it or do a Google search or post a thread up this forum to get some advice. It was all happening so fast on the late Saturday afternoon, and already being ecstatic about owning the car I guess I just wouldnt bear let my new baby suffer any potential damage (at least that's what the salesgirl said would happen if I didnt get the protection)...

Hey mate, actually thats the exact same situation... late Saturday (shook hand of salesman @ 6.30PM) and then being pushed by the sales girl for the protection untill almost 8. But I asked her time to think and decide on delivery date (which she agrees) but on the date, I'm avoiding her :p

[avantgarde84]

Alright, a picture paints a thousand words, or at least i think.

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/9154/img0351a.th.jpg (http://img16.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0351a.jpg)

Doesnt really look too bad from a distance...

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/5373/img0356.th.jpg (http://img16.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0356.jpg)

Close up shot, note the band of streaks starting from the door edge. And I didnt paste the black tape at the bottom part of the door panel, was there from the start.

http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/4640/img0358.th.jpg (http://img246.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0358.jpg)

Another shot facing the front of the car...

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/5930/img0366s.th.jpg (http://img9.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0366s.jpg)

This is the ONLY shot which shows the horizontal dent. Surprisingly enough, the door is perfectly spared, only a 3cm dent across the door panel near the wheel arch (whatever you call that part).

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/6931/img0374.th.jpg (http://img24.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0374.jpg)

Another close up shot, which really doesnt give the impression of the scuffs being deep enough to be called scratches. And it really isnt deep at all when I run my fingernails across the 'scars'.

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/8015/img0378f.th.jpg (http://img12.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0378f.jpg)

And the $$$ damage...

Cant really make out what on earth the guy wrote on the quotation, but from what he told me the price includes flattening out the dent with some device which will cause the surface of the paintwork to be stripped, then getting a coat of paint back on. He mentioned that the door handle will have to come off, which make me think if it's gonna be a re-spray. Tell me what you guys think, will appreciate any input to help me solve this problem. As it is I am inclined to just get the touchup paint and cover up the white marks, and leave the dent there. $400 is too much I reckon.

[HunterZero]

Ouch. Door might be able to be saved, but the skirt looks like the paint has been knocked off on the raised corners.

That respray quote seems quite cheap. They will clear coat it? How much area are they respraying?

If they respray only the affected area, you will likely get noticeable halos in the clear afterwards where the old paint meets the new paint. This is the trouble with black paint. This is why I'm saying to do it properly they have to do entire panels, or find somewhere inconspicuous where they can 'lose' the join between the old and new paint.

Did Honda recommend the repairer? What paint system do they use? I would steer clear unless they used Glasurit or PPG paint and clearcoat to ensure a good paint match, the paint on Hondas is very high quality.

- HZ

[avantgarde84]

Yup I first went to Honda, they told me they dont do body work and recommended me to this shop which is called Paintless Dent Removal Pty Ltd. Went over to see the boss, seemed like a real nice guy and had lots of corporate fleet cars in his workshop for paintjobs. Anyway yes, the quotation was from a Honda recommended repairer. The boss told me not to worry about having patches apparently they will do a good job and no one will tell the difference. The impression I got is that the left rear door plus the rear panel (where the fuel door is) will get repainted/re-sprayed. Not sure what kind of paint though, might check that out.

But I suppose the other issue is with the paint protection re-application for that newly re-sprayed area. Might cost some money and definitely time, and is something to consider if I go with the option of doing it up professionally AND paying the $400. Would like to hear more opinions about what I should do though.

And if I seem to be hijacking this thread someone do inform me... Just thought since this thread is about the dilemmas facing black cars my situation would fit pretty aptly.

[HunterZero]

Make sure you mention the paint protection to the repairer, they might be able to sort it out for you - but check whether there will be a cost, and what the cost will be.

The dent removal process alone should not necessitate repainting if it's done right - hence Paintless Dent Removal. But the trick with getting out dents is they have to be able to get behind the dent to get it out. If they can't reasonably get behind the dent, then they may drill holes! Check if they are planning on doing this... Don't be afraid to ask the technician to explain the techniques they're planning on using.

Might be wise to get a couple of other opinions too - but it depends how fussy you are.

- HZ

[furythree]

hey ive been noticng alot of REALLLLy light scratch marks. like randomly long lines appearing on my door. obviously someone or something caused them, but theyre like in really wierd positions that look like a door cudnt have done it, and a person would have been a midget to "brush past" against it.
its a volcanic grey car. so only noiceable up close.

would waxing and stuff protect it from light scratches? wax is like a spray or something right? or something in a tub you rub on?

[Type R Positive]

hey ive been noticng alot of REALLLLy light scratch marks. like randomly long lines appearing on my door. obviously someone or something caused them, but theyre like in really wierd positions that look like a door cudnt have done it, and a person would have been a midget to "brush past" against it.
its a volcanic grey car. so only noiceable up close.

would waxing and stuff protect it from light scratches? wax is like a spray or something right? or something in a tub you rub on?
spider webs from washing perhaps.

learn to detail your car. :thumbsup:

[avantgarde84]

Just returned from the Paintless Dent Removal workshop to clarify the work for the $400 repair price tag. Apparently due to the difficult location, the dent removal cannot be done paintless. After the dent gets flattened out using a special tool (which strips the paint at the contact points where the tool would sit on the surface), the whole left rear door plus the panel where the fuel door is at will be re-sprayed. Then the shiny surface coat will be put on, inclusive for that price I was quoted.

As for paint protection, apparently the boss was advising me and other customers to only re-apply paint protection after at least 3 weeks after re-spraying the panel because it takes about that time for the paint's solvent to completely dry out and not interfere with the paint protection. Anyway to re-apply the paint protection over the left rear door and left rear panel is $50, which brings the total to $460 to get it back looking new...

Still trying to convince myself if I should/should not spend that money to do up the scuff marks. Keep looking at all sorts of angles to see if it really is that bad or noticeable that would require the repair.... Any other suggestions/comments from you guys?

[furythree]

wats detail?

[tony1234]

Just returned from the Paintless Dent Removal workshop to clarify the work for the $400 repair price tag. Apparently due to the difficult location, the dent removal cannot be done paintless. After the dent gets flattened out using a special tool (which strips the paint at the contact points where the tool would sit on the surface), the whole left rear door plus the panel where the fuel door is at will be re-sprayed. Then the shiny surface coat will be put on, inclusive for that price I was quoted.

As for paint protection, apparently the boss was advising me and other customers to only re-apply paint protection after at least 3 weeks after re-spraying the panel because it takes about that time for the paint's solvent to completely dry out and not interfere with the paint protection. Anyway to re-apply the paint protection over the left rear door and left rear panel is $50, which brings the total to $460 to get it back looking new...

Still trying to convince myself if I should/should not spend that money to do up the scuff marks. Keep looking at all sorts of angles to see if it really is that bad or noticeable that would require the repair.... Any other suggestions/comments from you guys?
Post some pics and we'll be able to give you a better idea of which way to go.

[denot]

Hey tony, press the "<" button on the bottom of the page (next to "<< First" button and you should see avantgarde84 post with pics :p

[buddah51au]

hey ive been noticng alot of REALLLLy light scratch marks. like randomly long lines appearing on my door. obviously someone or something caused them, but theyre like in really wierd positions that look like a door cudnt have done it, and a person would have been a midget to "brush past" against it.
its a volcanic grey car. so only noiceable up close.

would waxing and stuff protect it from light scratches? wax is like a spray or something right? or something in a tub you rub on?
A good detail should bring it up like new again

[tony1234]

Hey tony, press the "<" button on the bottom of the page (next to "<< First" button and you should see avantgarde84 post with pics :p
Ah ok i see them.:o
Must be blind.

[Joystick]

Just returned from the Paintless Dent Removal workshop to clarify the work for the $400 repair price tag. Apparently due to the difficult location, the dent removal cannot be done paintless. After the dent gets flattened out using a special tool (which strips the paint at the contact points where the tool would sit on the surface), the whole left rear door plus the panel where the fuel door is at will be re-sprayed. Then the shiny surface coat will be put on, inclusive for that price I was quoted.

As for paint protection, apparently the boss was advising me and other customers to only re-apply paint protection after at least 3 weeks after re-spraying the panel because it takes about that time for the paint's solvent to completely dry out and not interfere with the paint protection. Anyway to re-apply the paint protection over the left rear door and left rear panel is $50, which brings the total to $460 to get it back looking new...

Still trying to convince myself if I should/should not spend that money to do up the scuff marks. Keep looking at all sorts of angles to see if it really is that bad or noticeable that would require the repair.... Any other suggestions/comments from you guys?

I'm pretty fussy about my Euro so I would definetly pay the $460 to get it repaired like new. I guess it depends how fussy you are...

Have a crack at trying to get the paint damage repaired yourself by detailing the area, it's worth a shot first.

[avantgarde84]

Yeah, I am actually pretty inclined to get it repaired properly too, just the inconvenience of having the car left in the workshop overnight and of course the $$$ for the job. Will be getting the touchup paint this coming Tuesday, will give it a go and see if that helps divert attention from the actual dent. Just thought once the obvious scuffs are painted over the damage wont be so noticeable. But of course I hope there wont be any obvious colour tone difference. Are there any things that I should be looking out for when attempting to paint over the areas? My idea is to just give the area a good thorough wash and dry, then touch up the damage areas...

[Joystick]

Yeah, I am actually pretty inclined to get it repaired properly too, just the inconvenience of having the car left in the workshop overnight and of course the $$$ for the job. Will be getting the touchup paint this coming Tuesday, will give it a go and see if that helps divert attention from the actual dent. Just thought once the obvious scuffs are painted over the damage wont be so noticeable. But of course I hope there wont be any obvious colour tone difference. Are there any things that I should be looking out for when attempting to paint over the areas? My idea is to just give the area a good thorough wash and dry, then touch up the damage areas...

That's what I'd do.

It might be worth while posting a thread in the car/detailing section with your pics. There's a guy called Dave that is extremely knowledgeble in this area and he'll be able to give you some very sound advice.

Not to mention others that probably don't look under the Euro forums.

[HunterZero]

Wonder if any of these processes actually work of it's a hoax... Anyone even seen this before or even tried it? Still there are quite a few comments that reported success...

http://www.wisebread.com/remove-car-dents-quickly-and-cheaply

I think that you could remove most of the scratches on the door by hand with some mild scratch remover (eg Meguiars Ultimate Compound, ScratchX 2), then finish with a finer finishing polish (eg SwirlX, 205 Ultra Finishing Polish or Meguiars Speed Glaze 80). You'll at least reduce the appearance of the other scratches, but removing deeper scratches completely without a machine buffer will take forever. Then you can touch up whatever deep scratches are left if you choose.

But it's a near-new car, it's worth repairing properly IMHO.

Yes, definitely a good idea to wait a few weeks to allow repaint to cure before re-applying any wax, protectant or sealant.

- HZ

[HunterZero]

hey ive been noticng alot of REALLLLy light scratch marks. like randomly long lines appearing on my door. obviously someone or something caused them, but theyre like in really wierd positions that look like a door cudnt have done it, and a person would have been a midget to "brush past" against it.
its a volcanic grey car. so only noiceable up close.

It's likely these are microscratches from washing it improperly, or with a dirty sponge/chamois. They show up more on dark coloured cars like yours. What do you wash/dry the car with? Did you wash the car in the sun?

To prevent further scratches from appearing when washing, you need to change your wash procedure.

First, throw away any existing sponges and chamois you have.

A chamois seems good for drying a car and cleaning the paint, but they tend to pick up grit left on the surface and drag it across the paint which leaves fine scratches.

Always wash in the shade. Rinse the car thoroughly. Remove any bug bodies, eg from the front.

Get yourself a good microfibre (will last longer) or lambswool wash mitt and good car wash like Meguiars NXT wash or Mothers California Gold, and two buckets - one for soap, and one with plain water to rinse the mitt with after you take it off the car, before you go for another dunk of soap. Wash from top to bottom, and wash wheels using a SEPARATE wash mitt/sponge.

Next, get a stack of good microfibre towels, and some quick detailer spray. To dry the car, mist with the quick detailer to help lubricate the towel and wipe down the car. Keep turning the towel as you work, and swap to a new towel regularly.

When you wash microfibre, DON'T use fabric softener with it.

If the car gets really dirty, you'll feel that the paint gets 'gritty'. You'll need a clay detailing bar (google it) and/or paint cleaner to properly clean the paint of contaminants and return it to feeling smooth.


would waxing and stuff protect it from light scratches? wax is like a spray or something right? or something in a tub you rub on?

Wax has fairly minimal protection properties, it's mostly for show. Although it does offer some protection against water marks, and stops some road grime from sticking.

You can get paint cleaners and swirl removers that will lessen or remove the swirls, then you can get a paint sealant that offers a bit more protection. The sealant will typically last several months then you have to reapply.

You should ONLY apply wax or sealant after you've properly cleaned/polished/prepared the paint.

Meguiars or Mothers California Gold are good lines of products to start with, or you can get 'enthusiast' kits on the web from: http://www.waxit.com.au

Or you can pay someone to detail your car for you when it gets too scratched. ;)

Welcome to the joys of keeping a car looking nice. It can take a fair bit of work, but the results are enjoyable.

- HZ

[avantgarde84]

Wonder if any of these processes actually work of it's a hoax... Anyone even seen this before or even tried it? Still there are quite a few comments that reported success...

http://www.wisebread.com/remove-car-dents-quickly-and-cheaply

I think that you could remove most of the scratches on the door by hand with some mild scratch remover (eg Meguiars Ultimate Compound, ScratchX 2), then finish with a finer finishing polish (eg SwirlX, 205 Ultra Finishing Polish or Meguiars Speed Glaze 80). You'll at least reduce the appearance of the other scratches, but removing deeper scratches completely without a machine buffer will take forever. Then you can touch up whatever deep scratches are left if you choose.

But it's a near-new car, it's worth repairing properly IMHO.

Yes, definitely a good idea to wait a few weeks to allow repaint to cure before re-applying any wax, protectant or sealant.

- HZ

Hey thanks for your advice mate. Yea the scratches on the door arent deep at all, they appear like the tail end of a comet in the sky and I reckon using that scratch remover would help. Then there is the other bigger scuffs on the panel at the wheel arch that I will use the touchup paint to repair. Will try all the DIY possibilities before surrendering and letting the pros handle it. I could DIY the scuffs myself including polishing it myself than have the paint protection guys do the job for $50. Will put up the same pics in the detailing section for their advice. If my repair job comes good will surely put up After pics for you guys to see.... Now to Supercheap Auto for the scratch removers...

[BraXta]

my advice..

Park far FAR FARRRRR away from supermarket parking places...
keep it clean as much as you can...

Use a microfibre mit and buffin clothes... (they are the Shit)

i got myself a new Autoglym chamois and im in love =D its got holes and sucks up the water well even on the first go...

Refer to link =D
AutoGlyme Aqua Dry (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=I&Range=1)

[tony1234]

my advice..

Park far FAR FARRRRR away from supermarket parking places...
keep it clean as much as you can...

Use a microfibre mit and buffin clothes... (they are the Shit)

i got myself a new Autoglym chamois and im in love =D its got holes and sucks up the water well even on the first go...

Refer to link =D
AutoGlyme Aqua Dry (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=I&Range=1)
Where did you get the Autoglym chamois from?

[BraXta]

AUTTTOOOOOOO ONE !!!


lol... in wollongong they just started stocking them... also they finally got Mother Clay bars too =D (next on list)

[Joystick]

Hey guys, I have a couple of very fine scratches (feels smooth to touch), I'm using a pure polish applied by hand and working it in until it breaks down and cleaning it off with some car detailing spray and drying with a microfiber towel.

Only problem is it removed some of the very fine scratches but a couple still remain. Is it just a case of using a more abrasive polish or is my above method flawed?

I know applying via machine would probably increase my chances of removing the very fine scratches rate but I don't have one atm.

[Type R Positive]

i got myself a new Autoglym chamois and im in love =D its got holes and sucks up the water well even on the first go...

Refer to link =D
AutoGlyme Aqua Dry (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=I&Range=1)
NOOOOOOOOOOOOO! Scratches! :eek:

Try microfiber drying towel. They work sweet with no scratches. ;)

[buddah51au]

Hey guys, I have a couple of very fine scratches (feels smooth to touch), I'm using a pure polish applied by hand and working it in until it breaks down and cleaning it off with some car detailing spray and drying with a microfiber towel.

Only problem is it removed some of the very fine scratches but a couple still remain. Is it just a case of using a more abrasive polish or is my above method flawed?

I know applying via machine would probably increase my chances of removing the very fine scratches rate but I don't have one atm.

Try Some Meguiars Scratch X as a start, if that doesn't rectify the problem machine buffing would be the next option

[denot]

Try Some Meguiars Scratch X as a start, if that doesn't rectify the problem machine buffing would be the next option

Buddah, is using Scratch X fix swirl mark? or should I go with the paint repairer suggested by you?

[buddah51au]

I have never tried using Scratch X for removing swirl marks so I cant give a positive or negative answer

[Type R Positive]

Buddah, is using Scratch X fix swirl mark? or should I go with the paint repairer suggested by you?
I used some scratch x with my random orbital last week.
It worked pretty good. I haven't tried it by hand though.

[HunterZero]

Note that Meguiars ScratchX has been discontinued. It has been replaced with ScratchX 2, which is more abrasive than the old one. There's another new product called SwirlX, which is less aggressive than ScratchX 2, but still a bit more aggressive than ScratchX.

I have some ScratchX and it works great by hand. It's very mild.

- HZ