94 Accord EXi problems

[repeated_love]

Can anyone give any recommendations on the following list of problems for my 1994 CD5 Honda Accord Exi 4 door sedan auto or recommend a good mechanic with Honda exp in Perth, WA.

Previous history: The car had done about 207,000km when the head went and another was put in. That head went soon after as radiator wasn't checked properly. A new engine which had done 70,000km was imported from Melbourne and put in.

Recently replaced radiator with a split core. I have been told that the front brake rotor disks are 2 completely different sizes??? I rang Honda and their stock is 14inch. But the ones on now are Bendex/Bendix brand.

Recently had the lower control arm replaced as this was bent and causing car to veer ot the right. Upon having this fixed a new problem arouse with brake shudder and this may be warped disks (again!) I had recently had the Bendex ones put on but have also been told they're 2 different size brake rotors.

Did an oil change but not oil filter change as couldn't find or get to the oil filter. this explains why mechanic was only changing every 2nd visit.

I have quite a few electrical problems: globes have blown, SRS dash light is on, brake lamp light is on and so is the "!" and "P" light. Also when I turn the key to the last position before ignition few lights turn on. Not sure if this is a test to make sure they work as they soon turn off or something wrong here.

The dilemma I have here is that I have paid twice to have the error codes read at a backyardy mechanic and at a larger chain. No one came back with diffinitive answers or just reset the codes. The lights have turned on again. SRS, brake lamp and !/P are always turning on sometimes not all at once but always SRS.

If I take it to Honda they check the ECM or whatever it is called but if that is faulty then they need to install a known working ECM first and I doubt they have this. I have read posts of people taking cars to electronic diagnostics and being given run around, same for most mechanical problems too.

Got an issue with transmission fluid being dirty but also read no need for a reverse flush as that can dislodge gunk especially in the transmission and block something up. Instead just get it drained and refilled which is still expensive. This could be the reason why my auto transmission shifts harshly even at low revs it seems to get stuck and then thud into gear. Or it could be something else.

Same with power steering fluid but I have read that there is no need to flush it for the life of a vehicle. If it is dirty fix the problem of the dirt getting in and then drain and fill it up again.

Can't really afford another car so trying to keep this one going yet I have poured money into it already and can't afford to continue spending heaps on it especialy if something critical is wrong.

[Eclipsor]

Gees. Seems like you've had some pretty back luck.

First things first. Do you have any experience working on cars? Because alot of checking can be done by yourself if you know a few basic things like jacking up the car, taking the wheels off etc.

Brake issue: You can check yourself if the rotors are two different sizes. Jack the car up, take the wheels off and measure them with a ruler. Sounds pretty unlikely though. The rotors should be the same size no matter what brand they are as long as they're for the right car. I didn't think Bendix made rotors either. Are you talking about the rotors or the pads?

If you do get new pads the rotors should at least be machined, or replaced and the proper bedding in techniques should be used.

Brake shudder could also be caused by other loose connections, wheel balance.

Oil Change: You pretty much need to jack the car up on an Accord to get to the filter. It is on the back of the engine pretty much in the middle. It is fairly easy to get to if the car is jacked up.

Electrical: Brake lamp being on can be caused by low brake fluid. Check your reseviour. When you turn the key to the last position all the lights should come on breifly as a test. Not sure what the SRS one can be caused by.

If the light with the little picture of the engine is coming on this means you have a code. You can check the codes yourself fairly easily. There is a write up in the DIY section on here.

Fluids: I wouldn't worry too much about the power steering fluid as long as the steering is smooth and works well. If you want to replace it there is also a write up on here.

You can save alot of money doing work and small checks yourself. Especially just the little things as this is probably where you get ripped off the most by mechanics. Do as much reading on these forums as you can, especially in the DIY section.

[repeated_love]

Gees. Seems like you've had some pretty back luck.

Yeah what can you do, no use going to the MTA they weren't much help

First things first. Do you have any experience working on cars? Because alot of checking can be done by yourself if you know a few basic things like jacking up the car, taking the wheels off, filling up water in battery as mechanics didn't etc.

Yes I can do these basic things plus always keen to learn. I downloaded the CD5 guide and had a read through bits of that.

Brake issue: You can check yourself if the rotors are two different sizes. Jack the car up, take the wheels off and measure them with a ruler. Sounds pretty unlikely though. The rotors should be the same size no matter what brand they are as long as they're for the right car. I didn't think Bendix made rotors either. Are you talking about the rotors or the pads?

Yeah I can do that or ask a mechanic to do it when I take it in for next check up. Maybe not Bendix but it is the rotors I am on about. I had 1 rotor and a mechanic brought another rotor. After we had a falling out the next place I went to said that there were 2 sizes. Reason I haven't done it yet though is I just got a wheel alignment after getting the lower control arm replaced. I thought taking wheels off would ruin the alignment.

If you do get new pads the rotors should at least be machined, or replaced and the proper bedding in techniques should be used.

Do you have to get new rotors or shave rotors on replacing pads? Yes I have read and do this bedding in technique.

Brake shudder could also be caused by other loose connections, wheel balance.

I asked the place where I got the wheel alignment done why I wasn't informed of the shudder and they said it isn't their problem? Yet they boasted about being one of a few places which test drive cars after work is done. After getting control arm and wheel alignment done by them I took it to get new tyres and informed that mechanic not to touch alignment as it had just been done. He still tried to write it on the invoice.

Oil Change: You pretty much need to jack the car up on an Accord to get to the filter. It is on the back of the engine pretty much in the middle. It is fairly easy to get to if the car is jacked up.

My old man and I did this and couldn't see oil filter at all so just drained the oil. I didn't replace the sump plug crush washer is this very bad? The car is also leaking so need to degrease and inspect a few days after to try and pin point the leak. I will have to go to mechanic again for that. Plenty of oil leak at the sump and I read a post here that led me to think i could be the washer or maybe leaking from the gasket.

Electrical: Brake lamp being on can be caused by low brake fluid. Check your reservoir. When you turn the key to the last position all the lights should come on briefly as a test. Not sure what the SRS one can be caused by.

Pretty sure all reservoirs are easily accessed and I have checked brake fluid but will check it again. Mechanic who ran error code test said, and from what I have read that SRS could be faulty diode and brake lamp could be screw near e brake. Or as sign says SRS airbag itself. I know as well not to read to deep into stuff especially from the internet.

If the light with the little picture of the engine is coming on this means you have a code. You can check the codes yourself fairly easily. There is a write up in the DIY section on here.

It is coming on when last switch is on but not while driving. What about the ! and P in a circle. I did a Google search for "error codes honda accord ozhonda" but couldn't find any posts. I can't see a way to search the forum here. I can't find the DIY write up on here.

Fluids: I wouldn't worry too much about the power steering fluid as long as the steering is smooth and works well. If you want to replace it there is also a write up on here.

I will look for that too I was thinking of using a turkey baster to empty it and clamp tube back on again. Where are these write ups for fluid and error codes?

[Eclipsor]

Will respond to more later on if I get a chance but here are the links to the DIY's I was talking about:

Power Steering Fluid (civic but basically the same):
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15335&highlight=power+steering

ECU Check (service connector that you short may be located somewhere else under the dash):
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8218&highlight=ecu+check

You can search the forums using the link in Yellow up the top of the page. Go to advanced search and specify the DIY forum.

[repeated_love]

Thanks.

I did end up finding the search option and the links. I might check out the DIY codes guide. I read some places offer a 3 month warranty if error lights come back on.

Another recent thing that has happened is my cassette player turns on and won't turn off. It says DA on the screen and won't change. My dad and I put the multimeter to all the fuses and the light turned on so thought that's fine.

[repeated_love]

Car is running smooth just had 2 issues:

1) At lower speeds like when I take off it seems to rev high but not accelerate, I wonder is this a timing issue?

One dodgy mechanic I asked said that no Hondas do this they rev high then 'step in' to the next gear.

2) When I put my foot on the brake the brake pedal will drop further in on its own.

Does anyone know of the causes or fixes for the above issues.

Thanks

P.S. I still am unable to do the paper clip error trick but would be willing to buy someone a cartoon of beer in Perth NOR to show me how.

[xKryptx]

For the "brake lamp" check your rear parcel shelf light, this causes problems from my experience and becomes "loose" in it's housing and the car thinks its a blown bulb so it is warning you of it, also make sure wires are not bare near the brake fluid resivoir as this could be causing false readings.... The sluggish auto change, nice to know its a common problem, but not worth the 3 grand to be rebuilt once again....