bummy
27-02-2009, 07:30 PM
Disclaimer: The following are provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself. nor the original writer, nor Ozhonda
take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!
Asbestos (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asbestos#Health_issues) is carcinogenic, meaning can cause cancer. inhale - expect lung cancer. Asbestos is used in brake pads, and clutch discs.
In modern day asbestos is not used anymore because of its toxicity, but I dont know exactly when or which production car still use asbestos.
Prevention is much safer than treatment ? =0
Pre-requirements Conditions:
-Engine is out
-Transmission has been separated from engine block
-Common sense (e.g. not in rage or on meth)
Preparations:
-Service Manual
-High Temp Grease
-Clutch Kit ready
-Tools ready (Torque Wrench[12kgf-m] + Sockets + Breaker bar + Pliers)
-5 to 10L of degreaser (no need degreaser if don't want to clean casing)
-Safety Kit (Gloves, Gas mask, Goggles) - Asbestos is dangerous to inhale,
you wouldn't want it stuck under your nails or in your eyes. really. you don't.
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0026-1.jpg
Torque Specs: page 386-395 of Service Manual 96-98_civic.pdf (http://downloads.hondatech.info/Auto/Manuals/Civic/Ab0VE.Honda%20Civic%20%2896-98%29%20Service%20Manual.zip)
Link to Hondatech.info
Let's Begin
I used the rope method (taking out spark plugs and insert rope to block piston from rotating) to undo pressure plate bolts.
Remember to undo the bolts with criss-cross pattern to
prevent warpage, roughly 45 degrees each time.
Once this is done, you will see your flywheel.
Undo the flywheel bolts in a criss-cross pattern quarter of a turn at a time to
prevent warpage.
After the flywheel is out, you will see this: (not this clean though)
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0028.jpg
If you want it clean, this is where you need degreaser.
Goggles so when you spray it doesn't recoil back to your eyes.
Gloves so it doesn't go under your nails, and mask so you won't breathe it.
You must degrease your new flywheel and pressure plate as it will come
oiled to prevent rust. Don't use petroleum based cleaner.
Only use brake cleaner or degreaser.
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0030.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0031.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0032.jpg
Your clutch kit will also come with pilot bearing. This is like a small
ball bearing around 23mm in diameter. You will need to push this pilot
bearing down in the center of your flywheel. I use 23mm socket to push the bearing down.
23mm socket is just perfect because it will push the bearing down on its outer race, not inner.
Tap softly.
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/pilotbearing.jpg
Next, you put the flywheel back to the engine block. Torque the bolts
according to service manual hand tight first and then a quarter of a turn at a time in a
criss-cross pattern to prevent warpage. Work your way up to 118 lbf-ft / 12 kgf-m.
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/flywheel.jpg
You can now put on the clutch disc and use the alignment tool so the clutch disc sits nicely with pressure plate and flywheel.
When putting pressure plate, there are 3 notches that you must match. They're idiot proof because the distance between the notch and bolt hole varies.
Like this:
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0027.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0029.jpg
Again, torque up the pressure plate bolts hand tight then work your way up to 19 lbf-ft / 2.6 kgf-m quarter of a turn at a time.
Yeah. You need torque wrench. Seriously.
Done!
You wish. Your clutch kit will also come with release bearing. Mine does.
If you don't mind the look of this:
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0034.jpg
Then skip this pic:
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0035.jpg
Take out the clutch slave [fixed thanks myztery!] cylinder (if you haven't already when removing the engine) and remove the rubber boot.
You will see the release fork. It looks like a fork. Behind the release fork
there is a clip that you must undo using pliers.
Then wiggle out the release bearing and take out the fork.
The release fork and release bearing in pic above has been taken out.
Now grease them. Grease them good.
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0036.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0037.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0038.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0039.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0040.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0041.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0048-1.jpg
Okay, done greasing? Don't get too carried away. I know how much you like to play with them. Stop!! =0
Put the clip back on and put in the release fork. Slip the clip... it rhymes doesn't it? :D Put the thing back on the release fork!
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0042.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0044.jpg
Make sure to align the detent on release fork with the stud and put on the release bearing.
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0045.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0046.jpg
Wiggle the release bearing back and forth make sure they move smoothly. Then put everything back on. Getting lazy to type hehe :cool:
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0050-1.jpg
Ok done!
I hope I did it correctly. I followed the service manual so hmm..
Corrections are welcome yo.
take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!
Asbestos (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asbestos#Health_issues) is carcinogenic, meaning can cause cancer. inhale - expect lung cancer. Asbestos is used in brake pads, and clutch discs.
In modern day asbestos is not used anymore because of its toxicity, but I dont know exactly when or which production car still use asbestos.
Prevention is much safer than treatment ? =0
Pre-requirements Conditions:
-Engine is out
-Transmission has been separated from engine block
-Common sense (e.g. not in rage or on meth)
Preparations:
-Service Manual
-High Temp Grease
-Clutch Kit ready
-Tools ready (Torque Wrench[12kgf-m] + Sockets + Breaker bar + Pliers)
-5 to 10L of degreaser (no need degreaser if don't want to clean casing)
-Safety Kit (Gloves, Gas mask, Goggles) - Asbestos is dangerous to inhale,
you wouldn't want it stuck under your nails or in your eyes. really. you don't.
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0026-1.jpg
Torque Specs: page 386-395 of Service Manual 96-98_civic.pdf (http://downloads.hondatech.info/Auto/Manuals/Civic/Ab0VE.Honda%20Civic%20%2896-98%29%20Service%20Manual.zip)
Link to Hondatech.info
Let's Begin
I used the rope method (taking out spark plugs and insert rope to block piston from rotating) to undo pressure plate bolts.
Remember to undo the bolts with criss-cross pattern to
prevent warpage, roughly 45 degrees each time.
Once this is done, you will see your flywheel.
Undo the flywheel bolts in a criss-cross pattern quarter of a turn at a time to
prevent warpage.
After the flywheel is out, you will see this: (not this clean though)
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0028.jpg
If you want it clean, this is where you need degreaser.
Goggles so when you spray it doesn't recoil back to your eyes.
Gloves so it doesn't go under your nails, and mask so you won't breathe it.
You must degrease your new flywheel and pressure plate as it will come
oiled to prevent rust. Don't use petroleum based cleaner.
Only use brake cleaner or degreaser.
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0030.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0031.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0032.jpg
Your clutch kit will also come with pilot bearing. This is like a small
ball bearing around 23mm in diameter. You will need to push this pilot
bearing down in the center of your flywheel. I use 23mm socket to push the bearing down.
23mm socket is just perfect because it will push the bearing down on its outer race, not inner.
Tap softly.
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/pilotbearing.jpg
Next, you put the flywheel back to the engine block. Torque the bolts
according to service manual hand tight first and then a quarter of a turn at a time in a
criss-cross pattern to prevent warpage. Work your way up to 118 lbf-ft / 12 kgf-m.
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/flywheel.jpg
You can now put on the clutch disc and use the alignment tool so the clutch disc sits nicely with pressure plate and flywheel.
When putting pressure plate, there are 3 notches that you must match. They're idiot proof because the distance between the notch and bolt hole varies.
Like this:
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0027.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0029.jpg
Again, torque up the pressure plate bolts hand tight then work your way up to 19 lbf-ft / 2.6 kgf-m quarter of a turn at a time.
Yeah. You need torque wrench. Seriously.
Done!
You wish. Your clutch kit will also come with release bearing. Mine does.
If you don't mind the look of this:
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0034.jpg
Then skip this pic:
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0035.jpg
Take out the clutch slave [fixed thanks myztery!] cylinder (if you haven't already when removing the engine) and remove the rubber boot.
You will see the release fork. It looks like a fork. Behind the release fork
there is a clip that you must undo using pliers.
Then wiggle out the release bearing and take out the fork.
The release fork and release bearing in pic above has been taken out.
Now grease them. Grease them good.
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0036.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0037.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0038.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0039.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0040.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0041.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0048-1.jpg
Okay, done greasing? Don't get too carried away. I know how much you like to play with them. Stop!! =0
Put the clip back on and put in the release fork. Slip the clip... it rhymes doesn't it? :D Put the thing back on the release fork!
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0042.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0044.jpg
Make sure to align the detent on release fork with the stud and put on the release bearing.
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0045.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0046.jpg
Wiggle the release bearing back and forth make sure they move smoothly. Then put everything back on. Getting lazy to type hehe :cool:
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/IMG_0050-1.jpg
Ok done!
I hope I did it correctly. I followed the service manual so hmm..
Corrections are welcome yo.