Engine start problem!

[xcwizit]

Hey guys just recently or should I say ytday, my CD5 would not start. Turn the key all the way, I can hear the fuel pump but no crank over. I hear a tick noise. Yes one single ticking noise with the key at the last position of the ignition barrel.

Then 10 minutes later, after moving the steering column higher a little bit, car started fine again. Very weird I say, Im not sensing its the starter motor but maybe something within the ignition barrel, as I have the steering column all the way down, could this have any problem with the barrel and igniting??

Then just few hrs ago, had same problem again..Car would not start, no crank over. So I moved the steering column around higher and lower and turned engine on and started as per usual but this time, cranked few times first then failed. Then second time around straight after it started normal!

Very weird to me I say, Im usually a guru with car problems but this one seems a little ordinary to me! Is this a CD5 thing or just out of the blue wear and tear sort of thing?

[Paul1985]

I was gonna say starter motor but by the sounds of things it could be an issue with your ignition switch. Maybe a loose connection especially in the soldered joints. You said the fuel pump primes each time you click it to on/start so i doubt it would be an issue with the main relay.

I'd be tipping ignition switch or starter motor.

[xcwizit]

Yea thanks Paul, its definately not the fuel pump or starter motor. The problem is happening more often now and every morning since the weekend. But what I do is move the steering wheel column up and down and the car starts fine after the column re-positioning. At first it will crank over but not with the same power as it would the second time round that I do it, so basically at first it will crank over but not enought to turn engine on and then the second time round it start sweet no problems.

How much are brand new and/or second hand ignition switches usually?

[Paul1985]

I bought a ingnition switch for my DA9 a year or so ago as it died. It cost me about $110 new from the dealer. It may be worth trying a working one or simply getting one from the wrecking yard for cheap. It may not be your problem, so you may not wanna spend alot on a new one incase.

It is a simple thing to swap. 2 plugs into it and the switch is screwed into the barrell.

I recommend pulling the covers around the steering wheel off and getting some light in there and inspecting the wiring... lift the wheel up and down and see if anything is being pulled on.

Pull the ignition switch out and visually inspect it. Theres even some tests in the workshop manuals you can perform on the switch to check its condition.

This will only take you a little bit of time and you only really need some screwdrivers.

If you do decide to pull it out and check it, be sure to disconnect the battery when you are removing the switch as i accidentally shorted the switch out with the screwdriver and popped a fuse.

Its definately worth looking at IMO as it seems there is an issue around this area as you moving the wheel changes things.

[Paul1985]

Also, hows the battery on your car???

Sounds like your battery could be on the way out from the comments above.

[xcwizit]

I bought a ingnition switch for my DA9 a year or so ago as it died. It cost me about $110 new from the dealer. It may be worth trying a working one or simply getting one from the wrecking yard for cheap. It may not be your problem, so you may not wanna spend alot on a new one incase.
It is a simple thing to swap. 2 plugs into it and the switch is screwed into the barrell.
I recommend pulling the covers around the steering wheel off and getting some light in there and inspecting the wiring... lift the wheel up and down and see if anything is being pulled on.
Pull the ignition switch out and visually inspect it. Theres even some tests in the workshop manuals you can perform on the switch to check its condition.
This will only take you a little bit of time and you only really need some screwdrivers.
If you do decide to pull it out and check it, be sure to disconnect the battery when you are removing the switch as i accidentally shorted the switch out with the screwdriver and popped a fuse.
Its definately worth looking at IMO as it seems there is an issue around this area as you moving the wheel changes things.

Also, hows the battery on your car??? Sounds like your battery could be on the way out from the comments above.

Thanks for the reply mate, much appreciated help, I will try this weekend will let u know of outcome. in regards to the battery, Ive tested the volts and all seems to be normal!
You know today it happened again and i did the same thing with moving the steering column up and down and noticed that whenever I pushed it downwards it would making a ticking/stuck noise like as if something is moving/getting stuck within the steering wheel/ignition wires maybe ?? I dont know will have a proper look on the weekend!

[Paul1985]

Yeah.
Have a good inspection of each of the wires running up the center of the steering column.

There could be a wire which has stripped out of its cover and is shorting on the column or something....

Check for anything thats been modified at some stage under there, its quiet common for people to tap into ignition wires for connecting up accessories like stereos, alarms, killswitch's etc.

Something might pop out at you if your lucky.

[zillacles]

Hey, how did you end up with this? This is the exact same problem I'm having with my CD5, but I've yet to check the wiring on it. At first I thought it was my alarm being a bitch but after seeing your thread I realised it could be that ignition switch too L/

[FAT VTI]

I dunno if its any help but its a common problem on cd5's. It is not the ignition barrel, but it is the module behind it which lines up the terminals to produce power.
I just had my one replace, basically what was happening was i turned the car to on and the lights and everything went off and car did not start. then i tried again and it would work.
If not, could be ur starter motor or battery i spose.

[Nepolian]

From description, sounded like a sticky solenoid in your starter motor.

Autoelec could verify your problem!

[Paul1985]

From description, sounded like a sticky solenoid in your starter motor.

Autoelec could verify your problem!

It seems strange how moving the steering column makes it possible to start the car though. You never know though.

FAT VTI: What you are mentioning is part of the ignition switch. It a couple of plugs and the switch which mounts in the barrell.

[zillacles]

Yeah well I've replaced the battery, starter cables and most of the grounds in the engine bay, so it wasn't any of them. I'll have a look at the ignition switch later and see if everything is alright in there because it's an intermittent problem.. happens like once every couple weeks (so doubt it's the starter ?)

[Dursty]

probably irrelevant but is it a auto or manual?
Cause ive had problems like this when i leave the stick in drive in my auto.
It flusters it apparently.
After a while though, starts up fine, and i dont have problems again
unless i leave it accidentally in gear again.

[Riviera]

problem fixed yet???

get that ignition switch off and pull it apart, theyre a bit tricky they got a spring
and 2 layers of contacts inside, i got pics if ur interested...

i had this same problem sept i never moved the steering column to get it working
i had to give the ignition barrel a tap

when i pulled the ignition barrel off my dad pulled it apart to frind the connection
to "start/ignition" wasnt contacting properly fixed it for the meantime but then it failed again

so i got a new ignition switch it connects to the end of the keybarrel
theyre 2 separate pieces switch screws onto the end of the barrel...

[zillacles]

Mine's manual. Still haven't looked at it yet, been too busy installing the sound system. Could please you post up those pics you have?

[Riviera]

heres a couple images of the ignition switch

sorry about the blurry side of life....

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/Riviera001/290620081260.jpg

And Pulled Apart - note the contacts are all worn and what not...
i got onto them with a dremel rotisary tool with the wire wheel
and cleaned them up lasted about a week and it was back to it again lol

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u148/Riviera001/290620081257.jpg

[xcwizit]

hey guys thanks heaps for the replies. problem is stil there but starts good half the time. I have anther problem now. today when I got into the car to go home, car started to crank and then died out so I gave it abit of revs and got started. But it started up with a different noise, was very noisey during idle and on the way home. when I got home, took the key out but car stil didnt want to turn off, was still cranking.. I put the key back in, put it in the ON position though I didnt pull the key all the way and car started as normal. But this is weird because I didnt push the key all the way to ignite the engine, it had already ignited when I had it in the ON position.
Also, the ABS and PARK BRAKE lights stayed on during the drive home even though my park brake was down.
Anyway help guys please.

[xcwizit]

i pulled the cover off, couldnt find any loose wires touching earth or loose, because I thought it might be a loose wire touching earth somewhere. Iv taken some photos just incase I missed out on something so need your help guys look at the photos and tell me if you see something suspiscious. I started the car again and started up fine, no weird noise, no struggles and on she went!

http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/3886/ignition01.jpg

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/9541/ignition02.jpg

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/9541/ignition02.jpg

[xcwizit]

SCHWEEEEEEEEEEEEEt i fixed the problem. It was the FKUING starter motor. apparently the rod that sparks stayed out when it was supposed to go back in after igniting therefore after you let go of the key when you start the car. This caused that yucky noise and smoking under the hood!

[FAT VTI]

I just had that ignition module changed in my accord.... :P

its just those connections get burnt after a while, and dont meet at a nice connection.

I reckon you could prob refurbish them pretty easy by cleaning up the terminals.

[zillacles]

I've gotten around to looking at mine today and am up to here:

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/7158/dsc01721i.jpg

Now how do you guys get the assembly off without drilling these two bolts (the ones at the top)?:

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/4900/dsc01723k.jpg


Anyone?