CV boot

[Bludger]

In a few days i'm going to be changing the 20cm tire to wheel arch clearance back to a more reasonable height than what i made it to a fw weeks back.

I thought i may as well fix the disastrous incident with the ****ed up CV boots.......

Was reading the HAYNES manual to get an idea before i start. The manual advises to remove the whole drive shaft units from the vehicle. Is this necessary?? Can i just give the CV's a quick clean with degreaser, pack them with grease and then just slide the new boot back on???

Another thing is the boot clamps, is it again necessary to go and buy a special tool to clamp the clamps back on??

Or can i just use a generic pair of pliers and try my best to clamp it that way???

ALSO, another thing the manual says to do is measure the length of the drive shafts before tightening the clamps, again, is it necessary???



thanks very much......

I'm sure i will be asking more questions in a few days time when i run into more trouble:)

[Type S Tony]

If you want to use proper CV boot clapms then yest the tool helps out quit a bit, you can do it with pliers but it will be hard to hold tension on the clamp and set it in place at the same time!

I doubt you will be able to slide a new boot on as the hole on the smaller end isnt big enough to go over the whole hub side, unless you use another special tool.

Best bet is to remove it, bash the hub side off, make sure you dont loose the round circlip, do the repair, then hammer it back on, with the bolt attached to the hub side offcourse!

Just be warned, Grease will get everywere, so make sure you wear really old clothes!

& no its not necessary to measure the shafts before tightening~!

[Bludger]

I will disassemble the hub/knuckle from the shaft, but i don't want to take off the half shaft....... thats what i mean......

???

can i slide the boot through the hub end 1st??
I'm working on the left side, the side with the half shaft.

[Type S Tony]

http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo17/Anthony_k20a/aaaaa42282036.gif

[Bludger]

yeah, whel i did manage to **** them, it got pretty messy....
lol, was like mud wrestling, only it was grease wrestling

lmfao

[Bludger]

i don't need to repair anything, just need to change the boot.

[Type S Tony]

does this help?

In order to change the boot you going to have to dismantle at least 1 side of the cv joint!

[Type S Tony]

http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo17/Anthony_k20a/aaaaaaCV20joint.jpg

this is what the outter joint looks like, hit it with a hammer to seperate it from the shaft, be mindful not to loose the clip, replace the boot, pack it with grease, replace the pin, put the outter back on the shaft applying a little pressure, the hit it with a hammer to lock it back in place!

[Bludger]

ok, no use asking more questions till i start.

thank you for your help.:)

[Type S Tony]

ok, no use asking more questions till i start.

thank you for your help.:)

sorry i cant be more help, im pretty useless at explaining things unless i have the item in front of me to use as a guide!

[Bludger]

****, in order to replace the inboard CV boot, i have to dismantle the outboard CV .........


so i have to buy another CV boot, replace both???

when i only need to change the inner....??


cos from what you're saying, to get to the inner, have to open the outewr.

[Type S Tony]

no the boots slide on & off, & its up to you which side you want to dismantle, whatever is easier!

[Bludger]

thanks, oyu're helpful, but threads like these give me more questions than answers...lol

not your fault:)

[Type S Tony]

i know its something that you prob wanna do yourself, but i mean you can get a mech to do it for ya, in about half hour for about $100 parts & labour! your call, it is a very messy job and bearings do go everywere if you dnt really know what your doing!

[Bludger]

nah, should be ok.

use mechanics only when i really have to.

and i don't really have to in this instance

[vinnY]

the inboard joint is a plunge joint so you should be able to leave that end in the half shaft and pull the rest out further enough

take off the snap rings to remove the spiders and bearings, clean up then slide the boot on, reassemble and clean the inboard joint up and pack it with grease and you should be able to align it back up and shove the shaft back into the joint

you can use plyers to tighten up the clips but it's tricky
you should be able to just line up the boot as it was previously(should be a clean/shiney part where the boot used to go to)

[bennjamin]

bludger pm me again lol

[Bludger]

this is what I did with my crx.

the outer shaft popped out of the mid shaft:(

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/Manolo90/IMG_6946.jpg




In saying that, there was nothing holding it in. It just freely slides in and out.

Only thing holding it in was the CV boot & the whole suspension structure.

[string]

If your boot is split make sure to fully clean the joints. No point repacking the joint if you're trapping in contaminants. An ice cream container full of petrol should do the trick.

[CRXer]

all u need to do is unbolt the lca,ie pop the ball joint & remove the shock fork,also unbolt the radius rod,no need to unbolt the upper A-arm & shock tophat.
then u can pop the inner joints out of the midshaft & diff & swing the driveshafts out still attached to the hub.
then u can just replace both boots working from the inside.

btw just pop the inner joint housing u are talking about ,left in the midshaft with a large screwdriver or lever of some sort.

[string]

Have you actually done that? I can't imagine it would be fun (or effective) packing the boots from under the car.

[CRXer]

yes,did it not long ago string,
u swing the whole driveshaft out from under the car,so your hub is just inside-out,hanging off the top ball joint & tierod ball joint.

driveshaft sits nicely in a jack stand if u have one handy while your working on it.

[Bludger]

cool idea

[CRXer]

thank ben for that idea bludger,he put me on to it.

saves having to crack the bitch nut.
besides the honda manual says DO NOT disassemble the outer(birfield) joint as advised by an earlier poster.
ive always wondered why that is,considering my original shafts were split at the outer joint to make Bseries swap shafts & they went allright for a few years????

[Bludger]

yeah, the boot has been split for 6 months now.

too lazy to fix it.

fix it when new engine goes in.