GReddy EVO2 Catback dual Exhaust system anyone??

[E_Honda]

Has anyone got the GReddy EVO2 Catback dual Exhaust system installed? if so have you noticed any increased power from them?

[giant_mongrel]

i have it
installed it same time as headers, so hard to say...
sound is excellent. very smooth n deep, and not stupidly loud. just noticably loud.
def louder than fujitsubo =P
tbh prob gains is only 2-3 hp, and even then that would be at mid to high range revs
and once you hit 4k rpm, you'll only hear your intake screaming

[E_Honda]

i have it
installed it same time as headers, so hard to say...
sound is excellent. very smooth n deep, and not stupidly loud. just noticably loud.
def louder than fujitsubo =P
tbh prob gains is only 2-3 hp, and even then that would be at mid to high range revs
and once you hit 4k rpm, you'll only hear your intake screaming

so when its idling is it loud or is it fairly quiet? any chance you have a recording of it?

I haven't heard either Greddy or fujitsubo

[Crapdaz]

wait til you do headers and hi flow cat buddy prob will be louder than BC

[giant_mongrel]

lol too many uses of the word buddy in that sentence...

idling at 600rpm its not too loud, louder than stock obviously but not insane like megapower and not as loud as BC... cruising is quiet, not too much cabin noise. if you give gentle gas you'll coax out deep, deep sounds. i usually drive window down just to hear it in all its glory... and if you're WOT you won't hear sh1t all conversation with your passengers.

yes daz is right... i haven't done cat yet, prob will do in april sometime. will be louder, but its not like taking a butt plug out like changing zorst on a turbo'd car.

if i remember i'll get a recording this weekend...

[E_Honda]

wait til you do headers and hi flow cat buddy prob will be louder than BC

how much am i looking at to do the headers and hi flow cat?

louder than BC? what you mean by that?

[Crapdaz]

how much am i looking at to do the headers and hi flow cat?

louder than BC? what you mean by that?
Parts and labour or just parts?

inclusive of parts and install.
can range from $1000-$3000+

[Crapdaz]

assuming cheapest would be xforce for around $400 and cat would be around $300-400mark.

[E_Honda]

+ the exhaust however much that is, i might have to sell my soul to pay for all this lol

[E_Honda]

assuming cheapest would be xforce for around $400 and cat would be around $300-400mark.

If i do it, ill do it properly. I don't wanna go low end

[MangChi]

ill remember to remind you then...can't wait to hear it.

but as mentioned before just changing the exhaust won't add much gains until you get a freer flowing cat n some decent headers.

[giant_mongrel]

im looking at paying around $250-300 for cat

xforce is prob the cheapest... i took comptech for a little extra... and as for zorst, good luck since the AUD is so sh1t. without shipping evo2 is around 700-800 USD. ordered and paid before this bs GFC.

headers install shouldnt be crazy $, try and do it same time as a service. might save some dosh

[E_Honda]

can anyone else vouch for Comptech headers, from what i've read in the thread below ALN has got them in his setup

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=79527&highlight=performance+mods

[giant_mongrel]

tony1234 has them. we both like

[Crapdaz]

yeh pretty reputable for a lowend header.

[giant_mongrel]

ouch... i would say midrange... low is xforce topspeed dc. high is toda, feel's, j's etc. my poor headers... you've destroyed their morale daz

[Crapdaz]

alright my bad that means by car is crap cause i got dcheaders hahaha

[giant_mongrel]

yours is the princess... with a dc sports chastity belt

plus you have a e-manage sitting at home, we don't. it might not be installed but its 3 steps ahead of everyone else anyway...

[E_Honda]

talking about the e-manage system what exactly is that? i noticed from that other thread CL9-K24A3 says they are running Greddy emanage ultimate with plug and play harness and theres a big power difference

[Crapdaz]

Record your exhaust sound buddy and post it up!

[Crapdaz]

talking about the e-manage system what exactly is that? i noticed from that other thread CL9-K24A3 says they are running Greddy emanage ultimate with plug and play harness and theres a big power difference
Emanage or Emanage Ult is a piggyback tuning system other options can be like Kpro or Haltech.

Piggyback system meaning it bypasses some of the signals from the stock ECU.

Here's some info on it.


e-Manage Utimate

The GReddy e-manage Ultimate is as close to a stand-alone management system as you can get while maintaining the best features of a "piggy-back" engine management; an economical price, the usage of existing sensors, the ability to easily alter factory settings and not having to tune from scratch. But unlike the original e-manage, the Ultimate is more refined, requiring specific application usage (which we are constantly adding application updates that you can download FREE via greddy.com, Tech WebPages.) The benefit of this is, the included PC-based USB "Ultimate Support Tool" allows for even finer tuning capabilities, improved flexibility in fuel & ignition control and adds impressive data-logging qualities to make tuning quicker and easier. The increased number of input and output ports of the Ultimate, along with new built-in adapters add many new options to the unit. In addition to standard e-manage airflow-based adjustments, the Ultimate version includes new and upgraded features. The Parameter Set-up, tab menu format of the Ultimate has improved direct Map control for adding and subtracting Fuel and Ignition. The ability to switch between 2 preset tuning Maps (i.e. Street or Race program) via externally mounted toggle switches. There are Maps for Individual cylinder adjustment for both Fuel and Ignition. There are also options to convert injection and ignition systems (i.e. group or sequential injection and group or individual fire ignition.) An Airflow Output Map option even allows for airflow meter elimination. And when used with a wideband A/F Meter, the Air Fuel Target Map can self-tune an Injector base tuning Map, to speed up initial tuning. There are also built-in Boost, Rev and Speed Limiter-Cut features. To create super smooth operation, there are various fine tuning Correction Maps to adjust for Throttle Acceleration, Vehicle Speed, Water Temp, Intake Temp, Auto Trans Shift, Anti Engine Stall, and Idle. To further aid in tuning, e-manage Ultimate’s improved integrated Monitoring, Map Tracing and Datalogging features far exceed any other piggyback controller on the market. Even when not connected to the software, 8 channels of datalogging (at 20msec intervals) can be recorded and stored to be reviewed later. With the Support Tool connected, over 30 channels can be covered. Other new features include: Improved RPM recognition, Warning Settings, Password Protection for individual tuning Maps, NVCS (Nissan), VTEC (Honda), O2 Feed-back, Clean Fouled Plugs, and numerous others in future updates. Ideal for optimizing and fine-tuning for performance products like Exhaust, Air Intake, Intercoolers, Boost Controllers, and Turbochargers, the e-manage Ultimate fills the gaps between conventional piggyback and expensive stand-alone engine managements. All installation and tuning should only be made by a trained technician with proper air/fuel monitoring tools. (Some or all functions may not be compatible with some applications.)

Reference: http://www.greddy.com/products/display/?Category=electronics&SubCategory=47

[giant_mongrel]

intake, swaybar, headers, cat, zorst, coilovers, pulleys, cams, emanage, in that order. fk brakes, rims, speakers, and bodykit...

im a filthy hypocrite. i dont have half that sh1t. greddy + pulleys maybe next year

[E_Honda]

$680 USD isn't too bad i guess except for the fact the dollar is sh1t

[giant_mongrel]

'xactly. i reckon wait, or just go to muffler shop in Aus and get a custom one... will be heaps cheaper.

[E_Honda]

i was talking about the E-manage system, $680 according to the greddy website.

[giant_mongrel]

haha sorry...
but with e-manage you need a harness, then you need to tune it.
so all up prob $1500 AUD

[E_Honda]

thats cool, more noob questions but Comptech ice box and Unortodox racing pulley set what are they.

From what i briefly read pulley set gives an Average 5 to 12 HP Gain on Normally Aspirated Engines

[Crapdaz]

haha sorry...
but with e-manage you need a harness, then you need to tune it.
so all up prob $1500 AUD
$450-500 for tune; $250-300 harness; $1000 for Emanage unit since AUD sucks.

Had mine for $620.


thats cool, more noob questions but Comptech ice box and Unortodox racing pulley set what are they.

From what i briefly read pulley set gives an Average 5 to 12 HP Gain on Normally Aspirated Engines

Comptech icebox = boxed intake similiar to stock but bigger in volume and has a scoop.

UR pulley kit - underdrives the alternator,powersteering and crankshaft.
Making it lighter by aluminium (few hundred grams) and smaller in size spins for less work. (effects, less charge in battery in short drives, lighter steering feel from p/s, quicker crank speed.)

Suppose to work but not worth the money> barely noticeable in perf.

[giant_mongrel]

comptech icebox is your technically best power perfomance option for intake. basically a derestricted intake box and filter. hard to find these days... but you don't get the classy sound of a Cold Air Intake. by classy i mean loud. or SRI, even louder but too hot

UR pulleys are a lightweight set, with some underdrive but mainly getting perfomance from their lighter weight than stock. daz says its smoother... i think power difference will depend on your mods done. but you might notice some power issues around your car like lights flickering n sht cos your pulleys under drive...

[giant_mongrel]

fk posted same time

[E_Honda]

ok so basically ice box and pulley systems are not worth getting from what you guys put together in your replies then. So the main things i should be looking at getting for performance are E-manage system, headers, high flow cat converter and exhaust. With all that installed i reckon i should be gaining another 10kw or so, what you guys think?

[BusterSonic12]

i've got the toda header + metal hi flow cat with Greddy Evo2

idle isn't that loud at all. it's loud when the engine is absolutely cold like in the mornings. but other then that it's noise level isn't tooo overly loud, you can still have conversation.

awesome sound. i think it worthed every cents

[Crapdaz]

ok so basically ice box and pulley systems are not worth getting from what you guys put together in your replies then. So the main things i should be looking at getting for performance are E-manage system, headers, high flow cat converter and exhaust. With all that installed i reckon i should be gaining another 10kw or so, what you guys think?
icebox yes if you want enclosed.

pulleys not worth it.

Intake/Headers/CAT/exhaust are your basic mods you should get and yes prob 10kw extra.
+Emanage ultimate would maybe be another 10-20kw

[giant_mongrel]

ok so basically ice box and pulley systems are not worth getting from what you guys put together in your replies then. So the main things i should be looking at getting for performance are E-manage system, headers, high flow cat converter and exhaust. With all that installed i reckon i should be gaining another 10kw or so, what you guys think?

don't forget your intake

and greddy evo was def worth it ey...
bustersonic12 how much was metal cat?

[E_Honda]

ok thanks guys now just gotta do price and brand research. Can any of you guys put sound up of your exhaust?? i'm keen to hear what it sounds like

[giant_mongrel]

this weekend, youtube. be there.

[Crapdaz]

leon - how much gains you get with greddy emanage ultimate?

[E_Honda]

lol will do, can you record idling both when the motors cold and normal temp just curious to see how loud it is on different scenarios. And obviously when your reving the F$#K out of it!! :)

[Crapdaz]

btw jason - what did my car sound like during WOT?

[E_Honda]

btw jason - what did my car sound like during WOT?

sounded nice from what i can remember heaps more quiet than was it Liams? I think that was his name with the silver euro.

Only heard yours idle when you started it up, didn't really hear it on the cruise back

[BusterSonic12]

don't forget your intake

and greddy evo was def worth it ey...
bustersonic12 how much was metal cat?

i bought mine 2nd hand from a member on this forum with the header.

But to give u an idea, a metal highflow cat for dc5R is $600 from Toda.


leon - how much gains you get with greddy emanage ultimate?

Saving up to get it tuned now. No money because i just bought the toda header + cat off a guy on this forum and also oil cooler for my dc5R

[r-r-redEuro]

i've got the toda header + metal hi flow cat with Greddy Evo2

idle isn't that loud at all. it's loud when the engine is absolutely cold like in the mornings. but other then that it's noise level isn't tooo overly loud, you can still have conversation.

awesome sound. i think it worthed every cents

hey leon do you have the greddy evo2 on a euro ? or dc5r ? and what did you do with alex's todas+cat ? on the euro ? or dc5r ? :confused:

anddd how loud is the greddyevo2 compared to the HKS silent hipowered catback ? because i like the sound of the greddyevo2 but not too sure if i wanna sell the hks =P

[BusterSonic12]

hey leon do you have the greddy evo2 on a euro ? or dc5r ? and what did you do with alex's todas+cat ? on the euro ? or dc5r ? :confused:

anddd how loud is the greddyevo2 compared to the HKS silent hipowered catback ? because i like the sound of the greddyevo2 but not too sure if i wanna sell the hks =P

alex's toda header + cat on the euro. with evo2 catback

and i also have toda header + cat on the dc5r with trust ti-c catback.

it's not that loud at all with the evo2, very similar to the HKS. why change your current hks exhaust? they are fkn awesome, i used to have it and i loved it. because i think the rear muffler on the evo2 looks abit too big, i think the hks is more perfect.

just save up your money and get a set of headers, dont waste it on another exhaust which u already have and it's doing its job. :thumbsup:

[E_Honda]

with the injen CAI a lot of you guys have, the increased noise from the air being sucked into the engine is it really noticable compared to stock system?

Also read that the intake system efficiency can be lost if the intake opening for the airbox is too large. Have any of you experienced that with the Injen or is it me just being too paranoid and doing too much research? :)

[E_Honda]

Also is it recommended to do the exhaust at the same time as the headers or will you still get basically the same results with the stock exhaust system?

[Darkii_]

with the injen CAI a lot of you guys have, the increased noise from the air being sucked into the engine is it really noticable compared to stock system?

Also read that the intake system efficiency can be lost if the intake opening for the airbox is too large. Have any of you experienced that with the Injen or is it me just being too paranoid and doing too much research? :)

I have a stock airbox with K&N filter and i have removed the resonator, it's a bit louder but nothing compared to the injen at WOT. I sat in another euro with the injen and it sounds awsome lol.

[Crapdaz]

with the injen CAI a lot of you guys have, the increased noise from the air being sucked into the engine is it really noticable compared to stock system?

Also read that the intake system efficiency can be lost if the intake opening for the airbox is too large. Have any of you experienced that with the Injen or is it me just being too paranoid and doing too much research? :)
Efficiency - if the piping is too wide then you will lose some power and would lose power if the pipe is not wide enough also as it won't suck quick enough.

Stock system has a few walls which blocks the airflow and ripples in the pipe too.

So anything within the 2.75"-3" should give you pretty decent gains.


Also is it recommended to do the exhaust at the same time as the headers or will you still get basically the same results with the stock exhaust system?
it helps (couple of killerWasps) but the stock exhaust is pretty good as is.


I have a stock airbox with K&N filter and i have removed the resonator, it's a bit louder but nothing compared to the injen at WOT. I sat in another euro with the injen and it sounds awsome lol.
rofl yeh it does sounds a bit hollow sometimes htough.

[E_Honda]

Thanks for that info Darren. So basically Injen CAI does a good job. Does it come with air box and air filter or you have to buy those separate?

Is the Hi flow metalcat (http://www.metalcat.com.au/) where does this brand rate?

apparently Repco are resellers of them

[integral90]

Thanks for that info Darren. So basically Injen CAI does a good job. Does it come with air box and air filter or you have to buy those separate?

Is the Hi flow metalcat (http://www.metalcat.com.au/) where does this brand rate?

apparently Repco are resellers of them

Injen CAI is a complete replacement pipe, you get rid of your stock box and resonator and it will come with a pod filter.

The airbox replacements are your CT Icebox/Mugen/J's Racing/GruppeM ones. K24 is a very hungry engine, you can get decent gains with an intake. Mostly lower torque I'd say though, with the stock IM and header an intake isn't enough to get decent top end gains.

[Crapdaz]

Injen CAI is a complete replacement pipe, you get rid of your stock box and resonator and it will come with a pod filter.

The airbox replacements are your CT Icebox/Mugen/J's Racing/GruppeM ones. K24 is a very hungry engine, you can get decent gains with an intake. Mostly lower torque I'd say though, with the stock IM and header an intake isn't enough to get decent top end gains.
As liam has said, CAI's do not come with boxes at all.
Pod normally doesn't sit in engine bay.

CAI mainly concentrates on high end power so really if you want a good track intake it would preferably be the SRI with CAI feed.

Intakes performance gain is in response time on the time it takes for your car to pick up revs.

[E_Honda]

well for me i basically want power in all ranges i.e. low, mid and high end.

So for me i'm assuming what i need from what all you guys are saying is in order:

Injen CAI, Comptech icebox, Toda Headers, Hi flow metalcat, maybe an exhaust or keep stock, Greddy E-manage system (hopefully some time down the track) and if that turbo project goes well maybe that last :p

[giant_mongrel]

you can't get injen cai and icebox, it's one or the other. cai pipes straight onto the throttle body

i hope that you're rich...

and gl getting low end/mid range/high end. even those with RBC's are just getting top end... its quite hard to develop both with the euro, even with vtec and more aggressive cams.

[akina]

If you want power through out the whole rev range, I wouldn't pick Injen CAI or Comptech icebox.

Get GruppeM or J's Racing intake :thumsbup:

SRI with tuned box is the go! But they are pricey!

[E_Honda]

If you want power through out the whole rev range, I wouldn't pick Injen CAI or Comptech icebox.

Get GruppeM or J's Racing intake :thumsbup:

SRI with tuned box is the go! But they are pricey!

Your gonna have to dumb it down for me a bit i'm still learning, what do you mean by SRI with tuned box?

[E_Honda]

From what i read in this thread (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106118) it doesn't sound like GruppeM or J's racing is getting a good rap, so many intake options out there its tough. Theres GruppeM with the pod in the CF enclosure, J's racing uses a pod in an enclosed airbox, and injen not sure exactly.

GruppeM and J's racing dont seem to be best for performance from what i've read in other threads.

[Crapdaz]

imo having exposed sri would be the best, but won't be good for a dyno run since there is less air flow into engine bay.

whereas gruppem and j's would be good for dyno run since there is a scoop and it's enclosed.

SRi tuned box (design tested w/ dyno run results) - short ram intake with an inbuilt box such as gruppem, j's racing or comptech icebox.

[akina]

Daz pretty much has it, but wouldn't SRI be better for dyno since bonnet is up and massive blower fans are blowing directly at the engine?

[E_Honda]

what is SRI??????

[akina]

Short Ram Intake
CAI is Cold Air Intake.

SRI sits in the engine bay sucking in hot air.
CAI sits where your resonator is, on the left in front of your front left wheel sucking in cold air. But the longer the pipe, the slower your car reponses.

[Crapdaz]

Inclusive of what alex has said; There are SRI intakes where the pods have adaptors where you can put a cold air feed in it.
K&N apollo (only includes feed pipe and enclosed intake; will need to custom your own pipe) is one of those. It is a universal intake though.


Daz pretty much has it, but wouldn't SRI be better for dyno since bonnet is up and massive blower fans are blowing directly at the engine?
no because the blower isn't that strong, and bonnet isn't up unless you want it to be.
plus in an ideal situation your bonnet wouldn't be up and if it is you'll be sucking cooler air.
prob why my car didn't pull better @ toda last time because i had SRI with the blower aiming at nothing but my oil cooler and bonnet was closed.

imo - I PREFER SRI INTAKE OVER CAI ANYDAY

[power_of_dreams]

well for me i basically want power in all ranges i.e. low, mid and high end.

So for me i'm assuming what i need from what all you guys are saying is in order:

Injen CAI, Comptech icebox, Toda Headers, Hi flow metalcat, maybe an exhaust or keep stock, Greddy E-manage system (hopefully some time down the track) and if that turbo project goes well maybe that last :p

do you want to have your cake, eat it, and then have another cake as well? :p

[integral90]

In my opinion, having experienced both now, I think a well-designed cold air intake (1 continous piece) is better than any sort of airbox.

I have to disagree with you mongrel, I have RBC and combined with all my other stuff the car has more torque down low now than when it was stock. Only difference is it feels less torquey when cruising, but at WOT there's more.

Some things you need to consider:

'Response' is the time it takes from your throttle body opening and creating the extra vacuum, to the actual increase in air flow to reach the cylinders. Bad response from an intake would mean you're putting your foot down and the increase in air is taking a long time to actually get to the cylinders, giving the laggy feeling. There's the misconception that a shorter intake will definitely give better response, this isn't always true. The problem with tuned airboxes with cold air feeds is that there's a LOT of intrusion to the airflow, and that stops the air from gaining momentum. If the air has no momentum then it won't travel as fast, which means even if your intake is shorter then it will take longer to reach the IM, and when it does reach it, it will be going slower so you'll have less power again.

A good example of intake is to compare mine to EUR003act's. He has a 3" where I have a 2.75". In driving both of them you can feel his car has more power at the top where mine feels like it has a little more around the midrange. His intake can suck in more air than mine at VTEC because it is a physically bigger intake, where as mine would have less turbulence before VTEC and the really high rpm. So where I might make a bit more before VTEC, he makes more during. There is really no intake you can buy that will be the best for all. It's the same as the IM discussion of RBB vs. RBC. RBC you lose low end torque because it has big fat runners that don't guide the air but can handle a lot of it. The RBB has longer thinner runners which create speed in the air so it has a more constant flow giving you lower end torque.

There really is no solution, but if you want the best of both worlds you should be the first Euro in Australia with ITB :P

[E_Honda]

do you want to have your cake, eat it, and then have another cake as well? :p

I'm not a fan of cake, but if instead of cakes you said a double beef bacon deluxe burger from HJ i'd have to say yes! :p

[E_Honda]

In my opinion, having experienced both now, I think a well-designed cold air intake (1 continous piece) is better than any sort of airbox.

I have to disagree with you mongrel, I have RBC and combined with all my other stuff the car has more torque down low now than when it was stock. Only difference is it feels less torquey when cruising, but at WOT there's more.

Some things you need to consider:

'Response' is the time it takes from your throttle body opening and creating the extra vacuum, to the actual increase in air flow to reach the cylinders. Bad response from an intake would mean you're putting your foot down and the increase in air is taking a long time to actually get to the cylinders, giving the laggy feeling. There's the misconception that a shorter intake will definitely give better response, this isn't always true. The problem with tuned airboxes with cold air feeds is that there's a LOT of intrusion to the airflow, and that stops the air from gaining momentum. If the air has no momentum then it won't travel as fast, which means even if your intake is shorter then it will take longer to reach the IM, and when it does reach it, it will be going slower so you'll have less power again.

A good example of intake is to compare mine to EUR003act's. He has a 3" where I have a 2.75". In driving both of them you can feel his car has more power at the top where mine feels like it has a little more around the midrange. His intake can suck in more air than mine at VTEC because it is a physically bigger intake, where as mine would have less turbulence before VTEC and the really high rpm. So where I might make a bit more before VTEC, he makes more during. There is really no intake you can buy that will be the best for all. It's the same as the IM discussion of RBB vs. RBC. RBC you lose low end torque because it has big fat runners that don't guide the air but can handle a lot of it. The RBB has longer thinner runners which create speed in the air so it has a more constant flow giving you lower end torque.

There really is no solution, but if you want the best of both worlds you should be the first Euro in Australia with ITB :P

Thanks for that Liam i think i'm heading for the purchase of a CAI once i've sold my 19" wheels and gone back to stockies.

[Crapdaz]

As liam has said, it all mainly depends on your application for the car.

[BusterSonic12]

HAHA SO OFF TOPIC
exhaust now into intake

[integral90]

HAHA SO OFF TOPIC
exhaust now into intake

Solution = Run a catback system off your throttle body and an Injen CAI off your cat

[giant_mongrel]

It's the same as the IM discussion of RBB vs. RBC. RBC you lose low end torque because it has big fat runners that don't guide the air but can handle a lot of it. The RBB has longer thinner runners which create speed in the air so it has a more constant flow giving you lower end torque.


that's what i meant by having less low end torque... not that you'll have less than stock, just that power is concentrated in high range for RBC

anyhow you're the one with the RBC, you'll know better than me...

[MangChi]

wheres that youtube clip of the exhaust??

[E_Honda]

looks like i couldn't wait, bought the Injen CAI on Saturday. Went to Ben's DIY and got it installed, thanks for the help Liam.

I've been driving it with WOT a lot of the weekend lol lovin the sound i'm getting from it at higher revs

http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt193/e_h0nda/IMGP0469Large.jpg


One thing i'm slightly worried about is today i washed my car, opened the bonnet and noticed some water in the engine bay, i.e. to the right of the battery around the hole where the CAI pipe goes down into the filter (where the resonator is on stock euro). Then looked down where the filter is and only a couple drops on the top of the plastic part of the filter itself. I'm assuming the water got in from under the lights, the gap between the bottom of the lights and the front bumper. I can't remember how much gap there was before but theres about a 5mm gap between light and bumper. What you guys think? btw the bumper does look like its on properly on each corner. Would it be worth getting a hydro shield for the air filter???

[MangChi]

i have the injen cai and don't have a hydro shield. i just avoid driving through big puddles and driving hard when its pouring down. but thats just me. you can get one for precautionary purposes if you are worried

[power_of_dreams]

if you are that paranoid it's probably worth the money for a hydroshield for peice of mind.

[integral90]

How much water? Like a few drops sitting on top of the filter?

[E_Honda]

How much water? Like a few drops sitting on top of the filter?

yeah, although more than a few drops on one side of the hole where the CAI pipe feeds down to the filter

[akina]

Nah you should be fine man, when I had it I WOT in the rain all the time.

It actually takes a fair amount of water to hydro lock the engine. A drop or two should be fine.

[E_Honda]

Nah you should be fine man, when I had it I WOT in the rain all the time.

It actually takes a fair amount of water to hydro lock the engine. A drop or two should be fine.

'WOT in the rain all the time' lol that makes me feel better, i shouldn't have anything to worry about then. Anyway when i get a chance i might take off my front bumper and take my time to put it back on to make sure everything is sealed properly

[akina]

Yea, check to make sure everything is on tight properly.

I love it when it rains... I can lose traction without getting a turbo! XD

[Crapdaz]

if you are that paranoid it's probably worth the money for a hydroshield for peice of mind.
yeh hydroshield will help but since the euro blocks out alot of water no need for it.


'WOT in the rain all the time' lol that makes me feel better, i shouldn't have anything to worry about then. Anyway when i get a chance i might take off my front bumper and take my time to put it back on to make sure everything is sealed properly

yeh the 03-05 has the better protection cause it doesn't have those inlet fins within the guards.


Yea, check to make sure everything is on tight properly.

I love it when it rains... I can lose traction without getting a turbo! XD
rofl, i can't manage to lose traction with my car, might be either the tyres or the coilovers are hard.

[integral90]

Yea, check to make sure everything is on tight properly.

I love it when it rains... I can lose traction without getting a turbo! XD

As long as I'm going under about 30km/h if I have my wheels turned a bit in the rain they'll spin really hard in 1st and 2nd :D

With RBC the power sort of surges at about 4000rpm so it feels like turbo spool, lol. Going up a hill in 2nd from about 40km/h and you hit around 70km/h and they'll slowly break traction then go crazy like a turbo :p

[giant_mongrel]

just finished another draft of my research, will take videos n sound this week
timecheck 4.30am. phuc dat.

[Crapdaz]

man you have no life :p
the life of a student

[E_Honda]

Paranoid again or not......
With the Injen CAI because of the location of the air filter behind the front bumper and not being in an air box like the stock euro air filter, is it fair to say that a lot more dust and other shit will get sucked into the engine, therefore reducing the life of the engine and increasing the chance of things going wrong?

[Crapdaz]

Paranoid again or not......
With the Injen CAI because of the location of the air filter behind the front bumper and not being in an air box like the stock euro air filter, is it fair to say that a lot more dust and other shit will get sucked into the engine, therefore reducing the life of the engine and increasing the chance of things going wrong?

Yes but most of that crap would be burnt anyways once in the engine bay.
As long as your pod doesn't fall off and your sucking in large particles.

But no need to worry cause the filter should filter out alot of the crap anyways, only means that the filter would require more cleaning than one that is enclosed.

Did liam end up installing for you?

[E_Honda]

Yes but most of that crap would be burnt anyways once in the engine bay.
As long as your pod doesn't fall off and your sucking in large particles.

But no need to worry cause the filter should filter out alot of the crap anyways, only means that the filter would require more cleaning than one that is enclosed.

Did liam end up installing for you?

ah ok, so how often should i clean or replace the filter on it? cause its a pain having to take off the bumper to get to the filter?

Yeah Liam installed it for me

[Crapdaz]

ah ok, so how often should i clean or replace the filter on it? cause its a pain having to take off the bumper to get to the filter?

Yeah Liam installed it for me
Clean it maybe every service or 2nd service depending on your frequency on servicing. Assuming it's a K&N pod you have to get a recharge kit to clean it.
You don't need to take bumper off to remove filter.

Turn steering to the right, and remove the splash guard underneath and you can fit it through with a bit of fiddling around.

But yeh best to unclip the right side off though.
Cause im not too sure where it sits with the injen intake.

How you find it less torque down low?

[E_Honda]

ah ok yeah i thought it would just be really tight fit doing it that way, but its a better option than removing the whole bumper i guess.

Yeah slightly less torque in the lower rev range (I guess toda headers will correct that if i ever go ahead with it), but i'm loving the sound of it up high! haven't really noticed extra power up high though.

[Crapdaz]

not power but quicker response in revs...
unless you are going to dyno to really check if you make any power...

[E_Honda]

So on my Injen CAI if i was to convert it to a SRI by not using the 2nd pipe so then the filter would be sitting around the same area the stock one was, would that increase torque?

Obviously the air would be hotter too

[Crapdaz]

Yes it would, cause the intake arm is shorter in length and can suck more air quicker but the only downfall with doing that is because it is not enclosed.
1. you will get defected more easily
2. if your not doing much highway driving and more start/stop traffic then heatsoak is a problem.

[E_Honda]

Ok so i'm better off keeping it as is. Its not a massive amount of lost torque anyway.

An air box for the filter in the SRI situation would fix both those problems though wouldn't it?

[Crapdaz]

Yes it would fix that problem, but in application reason such as trackday or 1/4 mile i think enclosed would be restrictive.

example: Like saying if your filter is sucking air from a box that is 30cm^2 to something which is 100cm^2 alot larger and contains more air as long as you have a feeder pipe too which can supply more air.

[integral90]

Yes it would, cause the intake arm is shorter in length and can suck more air quicker but the only downfall with doing that is because it is not enclosed.
1. you will get defected more easily
2. if your not doing much highway driving and more start/stop traffic then heatsoak is a problem.

I disagree Darren. A longer intake SHOULD increase torque if it's been designed properly. I think the loss in power down low could be very relevant to the fact that it's 3", not that it's a CAI. A longer pipe should funnel the air and let it gain more speed before it hits the IM.

I think the loss is that the intake is the only mod that's been done, so right now there's no exhaust system to benefit from the increased air speed. The only thing I can say that might ease your mind, Jason, is to look at it like this.

Toda header + Injen CAI's low end torque/high end power > Toda header + Stock intake's low end torque/high end power

You just need an efficient exhaust system to help get rid of this extra air flow before you'll notice decent gains. Also do you run 98RON and VTEC semi-regularly?

Stay with it, I was so incredibly bummed after I got RBC and headers put on, the car felt slower to me... but it's all a combination-of-parts thing and it's a fun journey watching everything come together and seeing the benefits!

[Crapdaz]

imo - the diameter of the pipe plays are part to both of these but will be the same impact for both.
longer pipe increases it for top end
shorter pipe increases for low/mid.

[integral90]

imo - the diameter of the pipe plays are part to both of these but will be the same impact for both.
longer pipe increases it for top end
shorter pipe increases for low/mid.

I think the low/mid/top end discussion with intakes is mostly relevant to pipe diameter rather than design.

Not wanting to argue here, just discussing my differing opinions :o

I'm getting a dyno done today :D

[Crapdaz]

I think the low/mid/top end discussion with intakes is mostly relevant to pipe diameter rather than design.

Not wanting to argue here, just discussing my differing opinions :o

I'm getting a dyno done today :D
man i'll shut the fk up now!
But torque and throttle response both are dependent on both the pipe length, the pipe diameter.
My 2c - i prefer SRI than CAI.
Goodluck on dyno man i am guessing you'll do high 130's.
I estimate 139k ATW!!!

[E_Honda]

I disagree Darren. A longer intake SHOULD increase torque if it's been designed properly. I think the loss in power down low could be very relevant to the fact that it's 3", not that it's a CAI. A longer pipe should funnel the air and let it gain more speed before it hits the IM.

I think the loss is that the intake is the only mod that's been done, so right now there's no exhaust system to benefit from the increased air speed. The only thing I can say that might ease your mind, Jason, is to look at it like this.

Toda header + Injen CAI's low end torque/high end power > Toda header + Stock intake's low end torque/high end power

You just need an efficient exhaust system to help get rid of this extra air flow before you'll notice decent gains. Also do you run 98RON and VTEC semi-regularly?

Stay with it, I was so incredibly bummed after I got RBC and headers put on, the car felt slower to me... but it's all a combination-of-parts thing and it's a fun journey watching everything come together and seeing the benefits!

I use BP's ultimate which is 98 octane, VTEC don't use it that often, although more often now that i have the CAI :)

[integral90]

man i'll shut the fk up now!
But torque and throttle response both are dependent on both the pipe length, the pipe diameter.
My 2c - i prefer SRI than CAI.
Goodluck on dyno man i am guessing you'll do high 130's.
I estimate 139k ATW!!!

139kW!? Shiiiiit. I'm hoping (and still hesistant) that I'll make just under 135kW... we'll see! Don't give me high expectations and let my heart get broken :p

[Crapdaz]

Dnt cry!