Noob Guide to monthly checks for EK Civic's and the D16Y4/7/8 engine

[EK1.6LCIV]

The monthly check for EK Civics – a list for noobs :D

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!



My monthly check consists having a look in certain areas to ensure trouble free motoring.

Checklist:
Coolant level
Clutch fluid level
Brake master cylinder level
Oil level
PS level
Washer fluid level
And other misc inspections

All that is needed for these checks is:

1. A hydraulic jack, these can be bought from $50 and up, the one I am using was bought for around the $200mark
2. Anti-seize packet, super cheap sells them for $1 a pack, bargain
3. Metric socket set, you need one socket to remove your wheels, may as well buy the set as it will save you money in the future and at $13 for a new set at Super Cheap, why not, lol
4. Torque wrench, a must have, $40 for a new one at yet again super cheap get one today
5. Jack stands, you only need 2 but four is better, $20 and up per pair
6. Paper towel, for checking oil dipstick
7. Cloth, for wiping your hands during the job, gloves are optional at this point
8. Level even ground to work on
9. Solvol soap bar

Ok, time to get started; it all starts in the cabin. Now open the bonnet via the bonnet latch under the dash.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4373.jpg

Once the bonnet is open you can see the bay, start by checking the level of the brake and clutch reservoirs, all fluids should be up to the proper marking and if any are at the low or below the low point, there may be a problem and you should seek mechanical advice very soon. But if you are low, wipe off the cap(s) on the reservoir and top up ethier with Honda brake fluid to the correct level as a temp fix til you get to the workshop.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4374.jpg

Now check the power steering, it’s located near the windshield reservoir, dust off the red cap and pull the cap off, you will see the level on the indicator in the cap, if it is low, top up and find the cause of this problem.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4376.jpg

The windshield reservoir is easy to assess by removing the blue cap, the level should be up to the mark and if it’s low top up with dematerialized water that can be found at any grocery, hardware, or automotive store. If you want to refill the reserve use some Honda washer additive, costs around $3 for a small bottle that can treat a few litres of distilled water, will rejuvenate your wiper blades and clear your screen of bugs with ease :D

Also I might add to check and replace wiper blades, at the very most they will cost $9 from Honda (reuse the old metal inserts for your new blades)

Apply RainX and/or FogX for the windows (especially good coming into Winter) - this stuff is pure gold!

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4377.jpg

Now to check the oil level in the sump, by pulling up the orange dip stick pictured you can view the oil level, the first pull should be wiped off with a napkin, rag or cloth, and then put back into its holder, wait a second, then pull it up to view the level. The level should be up to the second mark, my pic has it below that mark as it was on the stands at the time and not level, it is important to do all of the checking on level ground.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4396.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4398.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4403.jpg

Then check the battery, if it’s an oem item like the ones I buy, it will have an indicator located on the top, a good battery will glow a bright green as indicated in the pic, if it changes color, get a new battery, also make sure your terminals are clean and free of build up.

If you have an older style battery that requires routine maintenance - top up the water level in each of the filler holes with demineralised water.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4405.jpg

Now check the coolant reservoir, it is located next to the radiator and should be to the max line, if it is low top it up with Honda coolant or if its below the low line, seek further mechanical advice as there could be a leak in the system.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4382.jpg

Now you can close the bonnet, now get out the torque wrench and required socket piece to loosen to finger tight level your wheel nuts, you may have (should have) wheel security locks, that will require a special socket, loosen that one first then the rest in cross fashion.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4385-1.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4390.jpg

Once you loosen both of the front wheels nuts, you can now jack up the front end, make sure the rear wheels are secure using wheel blocks, engaging gear, and the handbrake on. Locate the factory jacking point in the front and jack it up enough to put the locked jack stands into place.

Factory jacking point

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4393.jpg

Factory jack stand points for the front

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4391.jpg

Now remove the wheels from the hubs and inspect for wear and foreign objects, noting anything you may find. I use a Bob Jane tyre indicator card to indicate wear levels; it’s a good guide as to when to seek a tyre expert.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4408.jpg

Note the foreign object, remove stones from all gaps in the tyre

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4411.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4413.jpg

Just a side note, with the drivers front wheel removed, you can see the transmission fill and drain locations, fill on the left, drain on the lower right. To check the transmission level, remove the fill bolt and stick your finger in the hole, feeling below the inside thread as the fluid should be up to the thread, if its below it, top up with Honda MT fluid until it pours out a lil is the best way.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4418-1.jpg

When you put the wheels back onto the car, use some of this anti-seize on the studs, this will ensure long life to the studs as many workshops who will touch your car are overly rough and have no care in the world towards it (nor use anti-seize in the bizarre belief that It’s unsafe… ok it stops seizing and cross threading, its win to me when you properly torque wheels, been doing it for yrs, so has my Dad, and his Dad and not one of us has lost a wheel or had to replace a wheel stud…)

$1 a pack at super cheap, you’ll only need one for all the studs with heaps spare :D

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4428.jpg

Wipe your hands off after you put some on the studs

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4433.jpg

Now have a look at the cv boots for wear, as you can see this boot is in top shape still

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4435.jpg

[EK1.6LCIV]

Now put the wheel back onto the car only hand tightening the nuts, remove the jack and lower the car. Now set your torque wrench to 80 Foot Pounds, then tighten all the front wheel nuts in cross fashion til it clicks.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4454.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4438.jpg

Now time to do the rear of the vehicle, in the pic is where the rear coupe point is, roughly the same for the hatchback and sedan models. Do the same as the front wheels then jack it up and put the jack stands on the rear factory points.


http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4445.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4451.jpg

Once you’re done doing the same check as the front wheels, lower the car and check the torque of all wheels is the same.

I would also check the next time you fill up fuel (or if you have an air compressor) the tyre pressure

Tire pressure should depend on size and intended purpose.

As a rule of thumb for street use, lower profile tires should have higher pressure. 36 - 40 PSI .

OEM size 30 - 35 PSI

I check the tyres, coolant and oil levels every time I fill up for fuel :D


Now you can check the operation of the lights to check for blown bulbs, may need a friend to help with the break lights, this is the only way I knew I had a blown license plate bulb in the rear.

When I’m done if I have time I usually wash the wheels and car and use some kitten tyre shine to clean up the tyres I’ve been touching earlier. I do this check once a month with good results as its easy to find problems doing it this way than to wait til the normal service intervals :D Hope this has helped a few noobs out there, please feel free to comment, cheers.


also a beer would be nice afterwards :D

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF4460.jpg

[antO]

Great guide,
EK's monthly bible :D!

[Gio]

Yeah wd ryan.

Can you use the anti-seize to bat off with?

[EK1.6LCIV]

Yeah wd ryan.

Can you use the anti-seize to bat off with?

it stains skin to a point where Sovol has to be used, isnt waterbased, I can see you having difficulties... lol

[beeza]

Great work mate!

[EK1.6LCIV]

Cheers Brett :D

may come back to update it a bit with more common Civic info on the D16 models

[tiksie]

Where did you jack the car from ? Your bumper ? lol

[hisoka]

Where did you jack the car from ? Your bumper ? lol

read it~ it says factory jacking point ~

nice write up ryanator

[Bludger]

demineralised water is a bit overkill for the windshield imo.

[tRipitaka]

u use your torque wrench to undo lug nuts ?

[EK1.6LCIV]

has two way locking point (tightening and untightening), plus theyre only at 80 FT Lb. wont damage the equipment one bit

anything with leverage will do as some tyre shops (the ones neara me) will do them way too tight unless I tell them it do 80, lol

[EK1.6LCIV]

demineralised water is a bit overkill for the windshield imo.

well it's ethier that or get algea in the lines and have to fork out $xx for new piping, does the job and for less than $2 for a small bottle why not :D

[omgzilla]

Your washer reservoir water looks dirty! lol

I've never used demineralised water in any car at work. Always used town-water. We do use an additive sometimes (just a detergent). Its about $2 for a tiny bottle but does the whole tank. Water never goes sludgey with that stuff in it.

I have, however had people bring cars in that have filled theirs with water from their own water tank - once the heat from the engine bay gets to it (especially if its pretty old water) it gets all mould and algae in it - usually kills the washer pump and blocks the jets.

I'm not worried about using town water, but pinch a bottle of additive from work every now and then. Cleans the screen great and the water stays crystal clear!

Possible additions Ryan, could be:
* Check/Replace Wiper blades - Driving in heavy rain with buggered wipers sucks! Let alone possible damage to your screen! New blades = $20 / New screen = $100's

* Apply RainX and/or FogX for the windows (especially good coming into Winter) - this stuff is pure gold!

* Tyre Pressures, balance and rotation - People don't realise how many klms they're missing out on due to poor tyre maintenance.

* If you have an older style battery that requires routine maintenance - top up the water level in each of the filler holes with demineralised water.

[EK1.6LCIV]

excellent man :D

lol, ppl still buy batteries that arent maintenance free? dayum

good point on the wiper blades, I try to replace mine often as theyre even from the dealer $9 each, minus the metal inserts of course, lol :D good product, ppl will be hard pressed finding a better blade than oem Honda items

and that water isnt dirty btw, its orange from the Honda oem washer additive, which also rejuvenates the blades and leaves the screen visble in any kind of weather :D around $3 a small bottle that can treat 3L lol

[jks24]

good guide here ryan

[jks24]

just out of interest also, what pressure do you guys run in your tyres on your ek's?? I put 38 in the front tyres and 36 in the rears.

[EK1.6LCIV]

I run the same pressure in all my tyres, around 37 atm

[Bludger]

just out of interest also, what pressure do you guys run in your tyres on your ek's?? I put 38 in the front tyres and 36 in the rears.Tire pressure should depend on size and intended purpose.

As a rule of thumb for street use, lower profile tires should have higher pressure. 36 - 40 PSI .

OEM size 30 - 35 PSI

[EK1.6LCIV]

updated with new info from fellow members, cheers guys :D

[beeza]

I'm at 36 Front,34 Rear.

215/45/15

[Bludger]

and your point is???

you've become uncool since you've started to bag me out for no reason:(

[EK1.6LCIV]

beeza or me?


also Im going to make a thread on how to change window motors in a few weeks and an indepth guide to clutch master and slave removal :D stay tuned to DIY

[beeza]

and your point is???

you've become uncool since you've started to bag me out for no reason:(

The point is to give an idea of what tyre pressure's other's are running but I should have said my rim/tyre size...updated.

I have had plenty of reasons to speak up and say something where no one else has the balls too.I care,that's why I did.I care about Ozhonda and the attitude it projects and I care about you.Just goes to show you don't have to had met someone face to face to understand them and care about them.

[jks24]

yeh my pressure in my r17s sounds about right then

[flipfire]

Great info right here :)

Im thinking of changing the transmission oil this weekend. How much oil does it take? Also what MTF would you recommend?

[Bludger]

Great info right here :)

Im thinking of changing the transmission oil this weekend. How much oil does it take? Also what MTF would you recommend?less than 3ltr.

OEM.

[SHOGUNOVDDRK]

Someone needed a DIY thread on servicing.

Figure this could use a bump and a tag.

[Gio]

Great info right here :)

Im thinking of changing the transmission oil this weekend. How much oil does it take? Also what MTF would you recommend?

2.8ltrs

[paps02]

beeza or me?


also Im going to make a thread on how to change window motors in a few weeks and an indepth guide to clutch master and slave removal :D stay tuned to DIY

cant wait for that. just put my window back on its tracks for the ***th time. starting to piss me off

[jusybabe]

thanks for this diy..needed to know this =) will do it this wknd!

[sunnaye]

great job and great way of saving moneyy! but the greatest step in the last step ;)