CTR_EK9
04-04-2009, 03:11 PM
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!
Hey guys I've found this useful infomation on the net the other day, I thought it'll be good to share it with you guys and hope it would be helpful to every1.
AIM - Installed aftermarket intake manifold onto your VTEC motor
What you need:
It isn't always a straight swap, depending on your car you may need some extra parts sourced from other cars. If you have a B16a1, you probably needed the following parts:
B18C fuel rail
B18C, 1997-1998 CR-V or B16a2 IACV (Idle Air Control Valve)
Type R Throttle Cable Bracket. (Part number: 16411-P73-000)
Optional : PCV valve (Part Number. 17130-PM6-003)
Removing the intake manifold:
Take note of all of your vacuum lines, most of them will match straight up to your new manifold.
Remove your intake, disconnect your battery.
Remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the throttle body on, unplug the throttle position sensor and remove the throttle cable from the pulley. Remove the tb.
To remove the tb studs, tighten 2 bolts together with a wrench and spanner then twist out the stud. Do the same with the fuel rail studs later. Yu can reinstall them in the new manifold using the same method at any stage.
Remove the throttle cable bracket, sensor, and fuel rail wiring cover front the manifold and move the throttle cable aside so it is not damaged
Remove the petrol cap to let off some of the pressure and remove the 17mm fuel banjo bolt. (this is why you disconnected the battery, you don't want any sparks around fuel) Remove the 3 fuel rail bolts and the 3 plastic washers, you don't need them for the B18c fuel rail. I also swapped the fuel pressure regulator over from the stock rail since the fuel line pointed in the right direction. Also remove all the vacuum lines from the FPR, MAP sensor etc.
Remove the Coolant lines from the manifold, IACV and FITV. Some coolant will rush out so catch it in a bucket.
There are 10 manifold bolts on the head and 2 underneath. You will need to jack the car up and slide underneath to reach some of them. Be sure the car is secure on jack stands while you are underneath.
Install the new IACV on the R manifold and install the PCV back in the hole, you can see in the pic that my PCV is damaged but it still works and they are expensive to replace considering they are only a plastic valve. I bought a Hondata intake manifold which helps lower the intake temperature so I installed that on the head, then install the manifold on the head. Make sure you attach all the coolant lines before tightening all the bolts because some are difficult to reach with the manifold on.
Tighten all the bolts, connect the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) lines and re install the fuel rail. You don't need the washers on the B18c fuel rail, if you go for an aftermarket rail you'll have to sort out the fittings. Connect the fuel line to the filter.
Now its up to you if you use the FITV (Fast Idle Thermo Valve). The b16a1 has the FITV on the manifold rather than the tb and the R manifolds don't have a provision for it so if you want to use a FITV you have to use a throttle body with a FITV connected such as a B16a2.
The ITR manifold that I have has 1 less coolant line when compared to the CTR manifold (they are otherwise the same) so I would recommend getting a CTR manifold since if you dont want the FITV you can always block it off anyway. I found that my car wouldn't idle properly when cold without the FITV so I would definitely recommend using one. The car would stall so I had to give it revs until it was warmed up which got annoying.
I have an ITR manifold so to connect the FITV I used the same coolant line as the IACV, and ran the coolant through both. If you have a CTR manifold you can have a separate line for each valve.
Lastly you need to connect all of your vacuum lines. These should all match up to your stock manifold, although the R manifolds don't use as many dashpots so some of them wont be needed at all.
Below are some photos of how I connected the vacuum lines. The vacuum line you see that goes from the manifold to the intake may not be necessary. I connected this line to increase the idle because without a FITV the idle was far too low. If you have a FITV connected you probably wont need this line so you can just plug up both holes.
The other important lines to connect are the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor line, FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) and the other line at the back of the manifold as pictured.
i'll try to upload pics in the next few days.
PM me if you have any enquiries.
Hey guys I've found this useful infomation on the net the other day, I thought it'll be good to share it with you guys and hope it would be helpful to every1.
AIM - Installed aftermarket intake manifold onto your VTEC motor
What you need:
It isn't always a straight swap, depending on your car you may need some extra parts sourced from other cars. If you have a B16a1, you probably needed the following parts:
B18C fuel rail
B18C, 1997-1998 CR-V or B16a2 IACV (Idle Air Control Valve)
Type R Throttle Cable Bracket. (Part number: 16411-P73-000)
Optional : PCV valve (Part Number. 17130-PM6-003)
Removing the intake manifold:
Take note of all of your vacuum lines, most of them will match straight up to your new manifold.
Remove your intake, disconnect your battery.
Remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the throttle body on, unplug the throttle position sensor and remove the throttle cable from the pulley. Remove the tb.
To remove the tb studs, tighten 2 bolts together with a wrench and spanner then twist out the stud. Do the same with the fuel rail studs later. Yu can reinstall them in the new manifold using the same method at any stage.
Remove the throttle cable bracket, sensor, and fuel rail wiring cover front the manifold and move the throttle cable aside so it is not damaged
Remove the petrol cap to let off some of the pressure and remove the 17mm fuel banjo bolt. (this is why you disconnected the battery, you don't want any sparks around fuel) Remove the 3 fuel rail bolts and the 3 plastic washers, you don't need them for the B18c fuel rail. I also swapped the fuel pressure regulator over from the stock rail since the fuel line pointed in the right direction. Also remove all the vacuum lines from the FPR, MAP sensor etc.
Remove the Coolant lines from the manifold, IACV and FITV. Some coolant will rush out so catch it in a bucket.
There are 10 manifold bolts on the head and 2 underneath. You will need to jack the car up and slide underneath to reach some of them. Be sure the car is secure on jack stands while you are underneath.
Install the new IACV on the R manifold and install the PCV back in the hole, you can see in the pic that my PCV is damaged but it still works and they are expensive to replace considering they are only a plastic valve. I bought a Hondata intake manifold which helps lower the intake temperature so I installed that on the head, then install the manifold on the head. Make sure you attach all the coolant lines before tightening all the bolts because some are difficult to reach with the manifold on.
Tighten all the bolts, connect the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) lines and re install the fuel rail. You don't need the washers on the B18c fuel rail, if you go for an aftermarket rail you'll have to sort out the fittings. Connect the fuel line to the filter.
Now its up to you if you use the FITV (Fast Idle Thermo Valve). The b16a1 has the FITV on the manifold rather than the tb and the R manifolds don't have a provision for it so if you want to use a FITV you have to use a throttle body with a FITV connected such as a B16a2.
The ITR manifold that I have has 1 less coolant line when compared to the CTR manifold (they are otherwise the same) so I would recommend getting a CTR manifold since if you dont want the FITV you can always block it off anyway. I found that my car wouldn't idle properly when cold without the FITV so I would definitely recommend using one. The car would stall so I had to give it revs until it was warmed up which got annoying.
I have an ITR manifold so to connect the FITV I used the same coolant line as the IACV, and ran the coolant through both. If you have a CTR manifold you can have a separate line for each valve.
Lastly you need to connect all of your vacuum lines. These should all match up to your stock manifold, although the R manifolds don't use as many dashpots so some of them wont be needed at all.
Below are some photos of how I connected the vacuum lines. The vacuum line you see that goes from the manifold to the intake may not be necessary. I connected this line to increase the idle because without a FITV the idle was far too low. If you have a FITV connected you probably wont need this line so you can just plug up both holes.
The other important lines to connect are the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor line, FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) and the other line at the back of the manifold as pictured.
i'll try to upload pics in the next few days.
PM me if you have any enquiries.