driveline question (and a valve clearance one)

[jaeyon]

Hi all, ive just been doing a full overhaul/service of my newly acquired s2k. car has currently got 137000kms on it, and i believe is still running the std clutch.

anyway im noticing there is a clunk in between gear changes coming from the diff if i dont get the changes perfect. is this normal or is the diff on the way out? ive recently changed gearbox oil and diff oil with oem fluids, however the clunk is still there (im assuming previous owners were quite hard on the 1-2 gear change). any ideas on how to fix this (new diff, reco etc?)

another question is in regards to the gearbox/clutch. now as i am still running the std clutch (which i believe to be on its way out) im finding it abit difficult to get into 2nd gear. the rest of the gears are also a bit hard to get into, but the problem is more prominent in 2nd. would a new clutch fix this or would i be looking at gearbox issues (my guess is 2nd gear synchro is on its way out).

lastly im getting a ticking noise from the engine bay, ive asked a friend who drives an s2k and he said it is the valve lifters or something. i believe i need to get valve clearances redone. anyone know any reputable workshops where i can get this carried out without putting a huge dent in my wallet? TODA etc?

thanks guys and sorry for the long post,

John

[papa_]

is it a clunk or like a click? and is it when you take of or while your driving?

[jaeyon]

its a clunk. feels like theres play in the diff, and it happens while im on the move (when changing gears).

also when im stationary, clutch fully in, foot off the brake. and i change into first gear from neutral i can feel/see the car moving forward, and also hear a slight clunk noise. stops moving once in gear

[JAP-S2K]

If it is back lash, it could be one of two things. It could be that your inner CV's are badly worn and they have already been swapped around and there on there last legs. Are you also getting a slight vibration under accelaration? It might be worn Crown and pinion wheels as your car has travelled over 100K, however backlash in the diff isn't that common, but they do break teeth. If this did happen there would be a noticable whine, all depending how many teeth are chipped or broken.
Also with the notchy gearbox, yes a worn clutch will do this but also replace the clutch master cylinder. Check to see if it is leaking by looking up under footwell (under dash), you will probably see that's it wet. Unfortunately this is a very common problem on S2000's that gets overseen.
As for your valve clearances??? Fortunately they're adjustable tappets so there easy to do! Also be a good idea to replace your valve springs. As for a reputable work shop to do the works. Bel Garage, Hanny's etc. But seriously there not hard to do. So any good workshop could easily do them. Good Luck.

[jaeyon]

If it is back lash, it could be one of two things. It could be that your inner CV's are badly worn and they have already been swapped around and there on there last legs. Are you also getting a slight vibration under accelaration? It might be worn Crown and pinion wheels as your car has travelled over 100K, however backlash in the diff isn't that common, but they do break teeth. If this did happen there would be a noticable whine, all depending how many teeth are chipped or broken.
Also with the notchy gearbox, yes a worn clutch will do this but also replace the clutch master cylinder. Check to see if it is leaking by looking up under footwell (under dash), you will probably see that's it wet. Unfortunately this is a very common problem on S2000's that gets overseen.
As for your valve clearances??? Fortunately they're adjustable tappets so there easy to do! Also be a good idea to replace your valve springs. As for a reputable work shop to do the works. Bel Garage, Hanny's etc. But seriously there not hard to do. So any good workshop could easily do them. Good Luck.

Thanks for the post! ill check out the cv joints. is there anyway i can check if their out? i tried just moving them last time i was under the car and they still seemed quite taught, though the car is getting old and these things probably do need replacing.

i guess i am getting a slight vibration under acceleration, more like a hum though. i havnt actually driven another s2k before so im not sure if its normal or not.

hmm heard good stuff about hannys. anyone have his contact details?

another thing i had a question about is whether it is normal for second gear to be very tankslappish over rough terrain. i notice this especially between the 2.5-4.5k rev range. eg im accelerating out of a roundabout in second, and the road gets rough, and i get tank slapping (for those who ride motorbikes). the revs just kinda jump up and down. i dont think its my throttle control (though it could be lol).
:wave:
john

[JAP-S2K]

There really is no way of checking the inners without pulling them apart. If there is a slight vibration or hum it could be either. Hanny's- 97255115. Hope all goes good.

[DNTBLO_S2k]

hey man ive got that same clunck in the rear, when you find out what it is let me know, ive done everthing to find out... but everyone says its normal...

[jaeyon]

hey man ive got that same clunck in the rear, when you find out what it is let me know, ive done everthing to find out... but everyone says its normal...

i think jap-52k above is right. either its cvs on their way out, or the diff. im leaning towards the diff, as when im in gear, cruising, then put my foot down i can hear the diff clunk as well.

how many kms on ur car?

[JAP-S2K]

I've broken diff(s) and driveshafts. I think it's more likely your cv's. And the backlash may seem like it's your diff however a worn/poor clutch with loose/abused dampening springs does create backlash too. The clunk is more than likely diff bushes, check them all, but rear drivers side seems to always cop a hiding. The diff itself shouldn't clunk as it's a torsion LSD(gear type), as the centre's are actually quite a good design and are quite strong, however the let down is crown and pinion wheels which are let down through poor/insufficient internal support.

[F20C]

jaeyon, i get tankslapping in first.. but it only does it after half an hour of peak hour traffic of stop starting.. it doesnt know if it wants to accelerate or not.. otherwise it never does it.. but by jumping rev's you mean going up a couple hundred then dropping down yes? not something massive like from 2k - 6k back down to 3k lol..? i always just thought it was my ecu getting confused with whats going on.. but im probably nowhere near right lol.

[jaeyon]

jaeyon, i get tankslapping in first.. but it only does it after half an hour of peak hour traffic of stop starting.. it doesnt know if it wants to accelerate or not.. otherwise it never does it.. but by jumping rev's you mean going up a couple hundred then dropping down yes? not something massive like from 2k - 6k back down to 3k lol..? i always just thought it was my ecu getting confused with whats going on.. but im probably nowhere near right lol.

yea only a couple of hundred rpms, but its quite noticeable, im starting to think its my control of the gas (or lack of over rough surfaces).

sucks man i dont knwo what to do, i think ill get hanny to check out the diff and cvs, but i have a feeling clutch needs to go and then we have the master cylinder as mentioned above.

in regards to valve springs, why shoudl they be changed and what options do i have in terms of brands and type? id like to slowly build up the car over the years.

[jaeyon]

quick question, if my diff is truly on its way out, would changing to 4.77 gears (a mod i plan on doing) fix it, or would i need new housing etc.

[JAP-S2K]

Reason for changing valve springs is seriously a sensible thing to do. Many people overlook these in high revving engines. The valve spring through time and obviously useage will lose it properties. And without getting too technical. The motor can develop valve float, this is where the valve doesn't return to being fully closed before it needs to reopen. Now the problem with this is due to minimal piston to valve clearance and the large lift and duration of our camlobes, the difference between the valve hitting the piston and it not, could be as simple as replacing your old valve springs. This is a common failure to high powered, high revving N/A motors that have seen some K's. Many a good engine builder will tell you this. There are plenty of springs to choose from, IMO i like TODA.
Also if your crown and pinion gears are worn, changing your final drive will mean you replace these. And no there would be no need to replace housing, but get the diff internals inspected and more than likely change all the bearing. Also i have seen stiffening brackets that are mounted internally, however i'm not sure whether these solve the problem, i'd assume so.

[jaeyon]

mate your a legend ^^^