new euro power

[bbell]

just wondering if the new model Euro (Cu2) is faster than the old 140kw model. Or does the power to weight ratio wipe out the extra 8kw. Peoples thoughts please

[tron07]

its heavier and got a bigger contact patch.... hence slower, imho

[bbell]

its heavier and got a bigger contact patch.... hence slower, imho

thanks for the reply. Damn i wanted to hear FASTER !!

[integral90]

just wondering if the new model Euro (Cu2) is faster than the old 140kw model. Or does the power to weight ratio wipe out the extra 8kw. Peoples thoughts please

The CU2 has MUCH nicer gear ratios, the CL9's 1st > 2nd is terrible, the CU2's is much better. I think in a straight line this would be enough for the CU2 to atleast be as quick as the CL9.

The 8kW is trivial compared to the extra weight, considering that only ends up being about a 5kW increase at the wheels.

[MiSloVic]

thanks for the reply. Damn i wanted to hear FASTER !!

ok... it will [probably] slow down FASTER.
it is still a nice car though. 1 which i am getting, when they release the mid-life facelift and after they sort out the pinging sound.

[tron07]

ok... it will [probably] slow down FASTER.
it is still a nice car though. 1 which i am getting, when they release the mid-life facelift and after they sort out the pinging sound.

does it really slows down faster? heavier = more momentum

anyone did the brake test comparision before?

I really wonder how the JDM accord is compared to the AUDM ones

http://www.honda.co.jp/ACCORD/webcatalog/spec/

[aaronng]

does it really slows down faster? heavier = more momentum

anyone did the brake test comparision before?

I really wonder how the JDM accord is compared to the AUDM ones

http://www.honda.co.jp/ACCORD/webcatalog/spec/

JDM, AUDM, UKDM and USDM CU2 are now standardised, unlike the CL9.

[Type R Positive]

just wondering if the new model Euro (Cu2) is faster than the old 140kw model. Or does the power to weight ratio wipe out the extra 8kw. Peoples thoughts please
I've had a CL9 and now I got a CU2. To be honest, they are about the same.
Shorter gear ratios and a heap more torque help the CU2.

Torque is the difference, not kw. ;)

[aaronng]

Torque is the difference, not kw. ;)
Average kW is the difference, not peak kW ;)

kW = Nm x RPM / 9.5488
So kW is a function of torque and engine RPM, they are still interrelated.

[felixd]

hmm i wonder if the CU2 engine parts could be used into the CL9 like i mean the camshafts , etc

[integral90]

hmm i wonder if the CU2 engine parts could be used into the CL9 like i mean the camshafts , etc

Won't work. The K24z has different shaped engine, the ports are spread wider apart and the camshafts are longer. It's a shame too, the CU2's intake cam is aggressive as hell!

[felixd]

damn !!! wish they were exchangable :(

[viper8548]

Won't work. The K24z has different shaped engine, the ports are spread wider apart and the camshafts are longer. It's a shame too, the CU2's intake cam is aggressive as hell!

Noob question but what determines if a cam is aggressive?

[MiSloVic]

does it really slows down faster? heavier = more momentum

it got better brakes. when i test drove the CU2, it felt comparatively better than the CL9. but, this is just a butt test.

[Accord Basic]

Is this formula only for K24A engine? Can you explain how you get the figure 9.5488?

I agree the kW, torque and Rev are related, but it also included the shaft diameter, gear size and engine performance.

am I correct? let me know if not. Thanks



Average kW is the difference, not peak kW ;)

kW = Nm x RPM / 9.5488
So kW is a function of torque and engine RPM, they are still interrelated.

[SPQR]

Average kW is the difference, not peak kW ;)

kW = Nm x RPM / 9.5488
So kW is a function of torque and engine RPM, they are still interrelated.:thumbsup:

Anyone care to discuss Brake Mean Effective Pressure? Anyone? Anyone?

[integral90]

Noob question but what determines if a cam is aggressive?

A mixture of duration and lift, which are characteristics of the shape/size of the cam lobe.

[aaronng]

Is this formula only for K24A engine? Can you explain how you get the figure 9.5488?

I agree the kW, torque and Rev are related, but it also included the shaft diameter, gear size and engine performance.

am I correct? let me know if not. Thanks
It is the basic formula to calculate power from torque at the flywheel. It applies to all engines.

You might be more familiar with the original equation, which is
hp = lbf.ft x RPM / 5252

[aaronng]

:thumbsup:

Anyone care to discuss Brake Mean Effective Pressure? Anyone? Anyone?

BMEP gives you a number to compare different engine designs to factor in how high you need to rev your engine to make peak power. An engine which makes good power at a lower RPM and smaller engine capacity gets a better BMEP rating. This also means that it favours engines that have a volumetric efficiency of above 100% (turbo and supercharger)

BMEP = kW x 1200 / litres / rpm

[boleh]

0-100 figures according to wheels:
CU2 Auto: 9.5s
CU2 Man: <forgot>
CL9 Auto: 9.2s
CL9 Man: 7.9s

the autos are damn sloww.. if u want a fast euro, the manual is the only way to go. sadly that is something not every1 can live with including myself

[aaronng]

0-100 figures according to wheels:
CU2 Auto: 9.5s
CU2 Man: <forgot>
CL9 Auto: 9.2s
CL9 Man: 7.9s

the autos are damn sloww.. if u want a fast euro, the manual is the only way to go. sadly that is something not every1 can live with including myself

Unless you have someone who can't drive manual, you should give the manual a go. Traffic jams are fine, the gearbox and clutch are lovely.

[denot]

the autos are damn sloww.. if u want a fast euro, the manual is the only way to go. sadly that is something not every1 can live with including myself

are the figures using Full Auto or Paddle Shift? or will they produce same result?

[aaronng]

are the figures using Full Auto or Paddle Shift? or will they produce same result?

Not sure about the new one, but on the old CL9, someone found that leaving it in D mode actually gave better 1/4 mile times compared to using sports shift.

[bbell]

can someone give this thread a trade rating.

[aaronng]

can someone give this thread a trade rating.

Why?.

[bbell]

Why?.

so i can get a rating and post my euro up for sale

[denot]

how do u give a trade rating to a thread? I thought its only for individuals... :S

[bbell]

how do u give a trade rating to a thread? I thought its only for individuals... :S

i'm not exactly sure,i just want to be able to post my car up for sale but i cant work out why i dont have permission to do so, i have been a member for more than 90 days. Any help would be appreciated

[aaronng]

i'm not exactly sure,i just want to be able to post my car up for sale but i cant work out why i dont have permission to do so, i have been a member for more than 90 days. Any help would be appreciated

You need a post quality point in order to sell your car. That is not a trade rating and you don't get that from starting a thread. You get it from posting up a helpful post answering someone's request for help. In this thread, all you have done is ask a question, not post something that helps other people. So you can't get a post quality point from this.

More info on post quality point system: http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31660

[primetimex]

Hey there aaronng

I've been meaning to ask what is the effect of leaving the Euro in the "S" mode? As I understand it - the S mode effectively limits the Euro to just 4th gear only and it seems to be more responsive and less lethargic in this mode than just the usual drive mode.

But of course as a result the car does higher RPMs at any speed over the D mode - does this mean worse fuel consumption overall and thus using S mode for extended period is not advisable?

[denot]

Hey there aaronng

I've been meaning to ask what is the effect of leaving the Euro in the "S" mode? As I understand it - the S mode effectively limits the Euro to just 4th gear only and it seems to be more responsive and less lethargic in this mode than just the usual drive mode.

But of course as a result the car does higher RPMs at any speed over the D mode - does this mean worse fuel consumption overall and thus using S mode for extended period is not advisable?

S mode is the Paddle Shift mode in CU2... you need to use the paddleshift to change gear and it does go to 5th gear... :confused:

[primetimex]

S mode is the Paddle Shift mode in CU2... you need to use the paddleshift to change gear and it does go to 5th gear... :confused:

Yes as I understood it from the manual and the demonstration - the S mode can still be automatic but it is only from 1st to 4th gear, to switch to the 5th gear you'd need to paddle shift that's all.

[aaronng]

Hey there aaronng

I've been meaning to ask what is the effect of leaving the Euro in the "S" mode? As I understand it - the S mode effectively limits the Euro to just 4th gear only and it seems to be more responsive and less lethargic in this mode than just the usual drive mode.

But of course as a result the car does higher RPMs at any speed over the D mode - does this mean worse fuel consumption overall and thus using S mode for extended period is not advisable?

I haven't personally tried the S mode on the CU2, but on other Hondas, the S mode lets the gearbox hold a lower gear and the RPM shift point is higher than in D mode. The higher RPM causes slightly higher fuel consumption, throttle position and engine load (lower gear = higher RPM but lower engine load). I'd say you'd get more wear as well, but nothing I would really worry about as long as you keep your engine oil and gearbox fluid replaced regularly.

[denot]

in my CU2, when I switch to S. it stays @ 1st gear up to 6000 rpm :( doesnt want to change the gear at all... This is the same on my FD2 as well...

EDIT: if you didnt press any paddle shift while on S, it will change gear on a bit higher rpm than D mode (maybe its expecting you to press a paddle shift to change the gear)

[jyh888]

In terms of power, the CU2 produces 8kw more at the flywheel compared to the CL9 but the extra weight offsets this gain. the Cl9 weights about 1300-1400kg where as the CU2 weights a hefty 1500-1600kg. This was proven by wheels australia on a review about the CU2. However, it is more stable car and has more safety features.

From experience, in normal D mode on auto, it tends to ship gears at higher rpms for example u can feel the gear shift from 1 > 2 around 3000rpm, doesnt that mean it consumes more fuel? where as in tiptronic u can shift from 1 > 2 as low as 1000-2000rpm and have more control, so id thought it consumes less? please clarify though

[denot]

From experience, in normal D mode on auto, it tends to ship gears at higher rpms for example u can feel the gear shift from 1 > 2 around 3000rpm, doesnt that mean it consumes more fuel? where as in tiptronic u can shift from 1 > 2 as low as 1000-2000rpm and have more control, so id thought it consumes less? please clarify though

I think from my personal opinion, rev high 3000-4000 rpm on 1st and 2nd and then rev low on 3rd and above. This will save more fuel on the longer gear used (3rd n 4th) rather than 1st and 2nd. Coz by rev low on 1st n 2nd, you only can max go to 50km/h on 3rd @ low rev...

[ig3o]

power to weight kw/kg i think.. so according to power to weight, the cl9 should be abit quicker.. correct me if im wrong =)

these specs are off the standard euros

cu2 - 148kw/1525kg = 0.09705
cl9 - 140kw/1375kg = 0.10182

[denot]

power to weight kw/kg i think.. so according to power to weight, the cl9 should be abit quicker.. correct me if im wrong =)

these specs are off the standard euros

cu2 - 148kw/1525kg = 0.09705
cl9 - 140kw/1375kg = 0.10182

correct :thumbsup:

and I'm still happy coz my previous car (Civic FD2) is 114kw/1295Kg = 0.0088

[ig3o]

correct :thumbsup:

hi5! :wave:

[aaronng]

kg/kW is the standard and easier to compare because you don't have to count the number of zeros.
CL9 = 1395 / 140 = 9.96 kg/kW
CU2 = 1525 / 148 = 10.30 kg/kW

[SPQR]

The leading zeros are reason enough to express it as bhp/ton; or in the metric world, kW/tonne.

The kg/kW is an Australian thing.

The calcs in countries other than Oztrailya would be:

CL9 = 140/1395 x 1000 = 100.35 kW/t
CU2 = 148/1525 x 1000 = 97.05 kW/t

[aaronng]

THere are also countries that use kg/hp (anything below 5 is fast). And UK uses kW/tonne like you said. Not sure what the US uses....

[boleh]

0-100 is still the better yardstick because its the final outcome

another car having less power:weight ratio may still outperform if it has a superior gearboks

[SPQR]

THere are also countries that use kg/hp (anything below 5 is fast). And UK uses kW/tonne like you said. Not sure what the US uses....

I think it's lb/hp. They are all just for comparison. On road performance is affected by many variables. Even the element of surprise.