View Full Version : Oil Type!!
chunky
25-04-2009, 05:30 PM
Yo everyone
can some tell me what type of oil to use in a dc2 vtir b18c?
is 5W-30 castrol edge ok to use??
geeang
25-04-2009, 05:41 PM
OEM Honda FEO is best.
aaronng
25-04-2009, 05:43 PM
Castrol Edge 5w-30 is ok to use.
aaronng
25-04-2009, 05:43 PM
OEM Honda FEO is best.
It is not the best, but it is good for the price and you can't go wrong with it.
chunky
25-04-2009, 05:44 PM
i cant really get OME oil right now
so 5w30 is good
ok thanks
would 10W-30 be better?
aaronng
25-04-2009, 05:46 PM
i cant really get OME oil right now
so 5w30 is good
ok thanks
would 10W-30 be better?
No, Edge 5w-30 will be better than FEO 10w-30.
If you can find Mobil1 10w-30 in a gold bottle, then that will be better than Edge 5w-30, but more expensive too.
flipfire
25-04-2009, 06:12 PM
I use castrol edge 5w-30 too, its good stuff.
chunky
25-04-2009, 11:59 PM
couldnt find anything except for valvoline 10W-30
should be ok?
slidetaker
28-04-2009, 08:52 AM
Yes Durablend 10W30 is fine.
However, depends on conditions, I generally would not run semi-syn more than 7500km.
VTECMACHINE
28-04-2009, 10:18 AM
Edge 5W-30 is great. Been using it for years. I like it. Royal Purple is best :) lol
FEO (10W-30) is OK too...
aaronng
28-04-2009, 10:36 AM
couldnt find anything except for valvoline 10W-30
should be ok?
Go to Supercheapauto/Repco/Autobarn and buy the Edge 5w-30.
The valvoline will be similar in durability to FEO. If the car is going to be driven hard, go Edge 5w-30.
bajajracing
02-05-2009, 09:06 AM
how much OEM Honda FEO ?
im using elf at the moment, but i wanna try oem next.
thanks
aaronng
02-05-2009, 09:12 AM
how much OEM Honda FEO ?
im using elf at the moment, but i wanna try oem next.
thanks
Elf is better than OEM. OEM is about $32-35. Elf can be had for $40 on 20% sale days. Don't go back.
Mr_will
02-05-2009, 09:24 AM
chunky you have been around long enough to know that this has been covered many times
bajajracing
02-05-2009, 09:29 AM
oh cool..
i'll stick with the elf then..
btw where can we get $40 for elf?
i paid $60
i'm using 5w-30 edge too, cause they're cheap , only $30 when they're on special, but recommended to change every 5000km,
aaronng
02-05-2009, 07:22 PM
oh cool..
i'll stick with the elf then..
btw where can we get $40 for elf?
i paid $60
Wait for 20% off weekend sales. I got mine from Blacktown Autobarn. It was either $40 or $45 for the Excellium GP 5w-30
aaronng
02-05-2009, 07:23 PM
i'm using 5w-30 edge too, cause they're cheap , only $30 when they're on special, but recommended to change every 5000km,
Edge 5w-30 will last at least 7000km. I've taken it to 10,000km with no problems and even gone through a trackday.
geeang
02-05-2009, 09:49 PM
oh cool..
i'll stick with the elf then..
btw where can we get $40 for elf?
i paid $60
I got my elf for $45 normal price from Shift Performance (one of the Traders) :thumbsup:
chucks
21-05-2009, 11:42 PM
how much OEM Honda FEO ?
im using elf at the moment, but i wanna try oem next.
thanks
I think its about $35 range, haven't used it in a while tho so can't remember the price. Castol edge sport 5w-30 is pretty good but 0w- 40 is better..
aaronng
22-05-2009, 08:28 AM
I think its about $35 range, haven't used it in a while tho so can't remember the price. Castol edge sport 5w-30 is pretty good but 0w- 40 is better..
Agreed. the 5w-30 is still good for street though. For track, I would prefer the 0w-40, but I have run the 5w-30 on track with no problems before. It will protect better than FEO, which many members still use on trackdays.
JohnL
22-05-2009, 09:59 AM
5w-30 is pretty good but 0w- 40 is better..
Possibly better if your engine actually needs a thicker oil...
My understanding (which may be wrong and definitely incomplete...) is that oils with a wider gap between the cold and hot viscosity numbers (e.g. 0w40 vs 5w30) will typically have more additives in order to achive the wider multi-grade range.
Since, when an oil degrades over time in use, much of the degradation is due to changes in the additives (typically the long chain polymers becoming chopped up into shorter chain molecules), it may well be that (all else being equal) a wide grade oil such as a 0w40 may need changing more often than say a narrower grade 5w30 (or any single weight oil, i.e. non multi-grade)?
I use 10w40 diesel oils in my engines. I like diesel oils because they have very strong detergent qualities and a high flash point which tends to help clean (and keep clean) the piston rings and ring grooves, which helps stop ring sticking and thus prevent ring overheating and maintain compression.
Diesel oils are made for very extreme use (ultra high compression turbo-charged engines producing very high piston and ring temps) and sold primarily to people who are performance and cost conscious (fleet managers). Many of these people will be having regular oil analysis done and be very carfully monitoring engine related costs and wear etc. Oils that don't perform very well in this very competitive market don't remain on the market long, and as a result diesel oils tend to be very good quality at a good price.
I wouldn't use diesel oils in any engine that wasn't already internally quite clean as the strong detergent action may liberate too much gunk into the oil... I'd also only use a diesel oil that was described as being suitable for 'mixed fleet' use (i.e. also suitable for petrol engines), because some diesel only oils may 'poison' the cat.
I change my oil at 10,000km, but I live in the country and do very few short trips and little driving in traffic (horror conditions for oils). If I lived in the city I'd change at 5000km.
aaronng
22-05-2009, 04:28 PM
Possibly better if your engine actually needs a thicker oil...
My understanding (which may be wrong and definitely incomplete...) is that oils with a wider gap between the cold and hot viscosity numbers (e.g. 0w40 vs 5w30) will typically have more additives in order to achive the wider multi-grade range.
That's true. In this case, Castrol's Edge 5w-30 is actually a mineral oil that has been hydrocracked (group III). It is not really a true synthetic. The Edge 0w-40 on the other hand is a true synthetic (group IV) and it is very likely that the 5w-30 hydrocracked will have more additives than the 0w-40 synthetic.
you guys got a place where I can find out more info about the numbering system.. etc and differences with synthetic semi and whateva it is?
JohnL
23-05-2009, 10:21 AM
RtN,
For more than you ever wanted to find out about oils and lubrication; bobistheoilguy.com
JohnL
23-05-2009, 10:50 AM
That's true. In this case, Castrol's Edge 5w-30 is actually a mineral oil that has been hydrocracked (group III). It is not really a true synthetic.
So that would make it a synthetic synthetic...
The Edge 0w-40 on the other hand is a true synthetic (group IV) and it is very likely that the 5w-30 hydrocracked will have more additives than the 0w-40 synthetic.
Why do Castrol (Chevron) confuse the issue by marketing two quite distictly different products under the same 'Edge' brand banner? I suspect marketing consultants trying to manipulate people into paying more for a relatively inferior product. Much the same thing happens with Mobil's '1' oil, not all '1s' are '1s'...
At any rate, my understanding is that the true synthetics are so good that they require very little additive packages to out perform mineral oils. Since moleculular alteration (in use) of additive chemicals is a major reason why engine oil requires changing, the less additives there are the more resistant to degradation the oil should tend to be.
If so then with true synthetics extended oil change intervals should be OK, though there is still the issue of contamination with combustion by-products...
aaronng
23-05-2009, 12:46 PM
Why do Castrol (Chevron) confuse the issue by marketing two quite distictly different products under the same 'Edge' brand banner? I suspect marketing consultants trying to manipulate people into paying more for a relatively inferior product. Much the same thing happens with Mobil's '1' oil, not all '1s' are '1s'...
If I remember correctly, one of the oil companies called the hydrocracked mineral a synthetic, since it was man-modified. Then another oil company which prided itself on selling only group IV synthetics sued them for misleading advertising and lost. From that case onwards, many other oil manufacturers started selling Group III and called them synthetics as well.
JohnL
23-05-2009, 04:37 PM
If I remember correctly, one of the oil companies called the hydrocracked mineral a synthetic, since it was man-modified.
If we accept that as a working definition, then just about anything other than raw crude is 'synthetic'.
In legalistic terms it's probably a reasonable position because where do we draw the line between something that is merely modified and something that is implied to be in some mysterious manner transformed from one substance into another (alchemy anyone?).
Keep in mind that even 'fully' 'synthetic' motor oil is merely modified vegetable oil. Perhaps it would be better just to describe it as 'ester based' rather than the vague and rubbery marketing-speak of 'synthetic', but unfortunately the term 'synthetic' has already been inculcated into the minds of the buying public. Let's face it, 'refined vegetble' oil doesn't sound very hi-tech...
aaronng
24-05-2009, 01:48 PM
Keep in mind that even 'fully' 'synthetic' motor oil is merely modified vegetable oil. Perhaps it would be better just to describe it as 'ester based' rather than the vague and rubbery marketing-speak of 'synthetic', but unfortunately the term 'synthetic' has already been inculcated into the minds of the buying public. Let's face it, 'refined vegetble' oil doesn't sound very hi-tech...
It's the steps to get from veggie oil to engine oil that are high tech, not the product itself. But that's only the ester ones (Group V). The cheaper Group IV are made from the lighter gaseous fractions of petroleum.
tec it
27-05-2009, 08:45 PM
Fuchs oil, best stuff around
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