Car thinks drivers door is always closed - Update on my problem

[E_Honda]

Basically i was running speaker wires along the doors to the boot. Ever since, the front drivers door when opened, the door courtesy light, nor the roof light turns on and also the dash indicator when a door is left open does not recognise when its open. I think its all inter-related, i might have snagged a wire when running the speaker cables, although all the existing wires are in that conduit stuff and it all looks in tact. All fuses are find too.

Using a test light i tested for power running to the plug/button that is pushed/released when the door is opened or closed but no power seems to be running to it.

Anyone have any ideas as to what it could be??

[The X Man]

From what i recall the wire that goes to the door switch is just earthed to complete the circuit anway.

[aaronng]

The wire from that door switch to the lights is probably disconnected. Get to it and test the continuity using a multimeter. Test light only tells you which wire is powered like The X Man has pointed out.

[BE.10.WU]

Make sure the wire on the back of the door switch is still connected and hasn't been reefed off when pushing cables through.

[E_Honda]

i understand what you guys are saying about no power running through that wire. Thats the issue i'm having not knowing where to look since the wire from that door switch right along the doors is incased in that conduit stuff, so it doesn't look like its been cut into. Do you know where it leads up into the engine bay or behind the steering wheel column to where it terminates?

[E_Honda]

Make sure the wire on the back of the door switch is still connected and hasn't been reefed off when pushing cables through.

thats the first thing i checked

[xxb4xx]

Is it just the driver door? Check the wiring to the doorlock, as the driver door is usually the brains to the central locking and sending the signal to the unit to activate the dome lighting and dash...the lock can still work fine, just the signal feeder might be out of place.

[E_Honda]

Is it just the driver door? Check the wiring to the doorlock, as the driver door is usually the brains to the central locking and sending the signal to the unit to activate the dome lighting and dash...the lock can still work fine, just the signal feeder might be out of place.

yep just the drivers door. Where is the wiring to the door lock you mean inside the door itself where the actuator for the lock is located??

The drivers door is included when i lock all the doors via the key so i don't think its that. I personally think its related to the door switch.

[xxb4xx]

There should be wires running from the door solenoid back to a control module within the door or in the dash.. follow the wires back.. looks like you might have knocked out the grounding for it..

if it's the door switch, just short it out from behind and see if it makes a difference.

[E_Honda]

There should be wires running from the door solenoid back to a control module within the door or in the dash.. follow the wires back.. looks like you might have knocked out the grounding for it..

if it's the door switch, just short it out from behind and see if it makes a difference.

yeah thats what i'm having trouble finding even by looking at the workshop manual. The control module is it in the door or the dash? the lume that the door switch wires feed into go along the bottom cover of the door up under the steering wheel coloumn and then into the engine bay to the fuse box.

my mate tested the wires with a multi-meter and the wires are fine both at the switch and just before it goes up under the steering column.

[K24A]

i also just encountered a similar problem today. The interior light does go on and the car does recognise that the passenger door open but it doesn't respond to the central locking button (on drivers door) nor the "unlock" button on the key. anyone know whats wrong?

[E_Honda]

Ok for anyone thats interested, heres an update on my problem:

- I took the car to an auto electrician and he confirmed all wiring was fine, all power readings correct etc. He didn't charge me.

- Took the car to a Honda dealership and $55 later they confirmed that when they hooked up their computer equipment to my car it did not return any error codes.

- Employee from the dealership said he will contact Honda directly and see if they have come across this problem before. Obviously they had no idea and never had the problem before.

- Both the auto electrician and Honda dealership are recommending a replacement BCM (Body control module) which is the control unit located behind the fuse box in the drivers side kick panel. Auto electrician which was more helpful said that it could be a diode thats blown in the BCM or something small like that but it was out of his league if he had to pull it out and work on it. A brand new BCM from Honda i got quoted over $800. I managed to track down a used BCM in Sydney for $325 but as the autoelectrician confirmed it would still need to be re-programmed by Honda or i wont be able to start the car.

- I called back the Auto electrician and confirmed theres a place in Sydney that repairs these modules and other electronics, so this Monday i'll be dropping in my car to the Auto and be without my baby for a week as he sends my BCM up to Sydney where they will hopefully fix it.

[xxb4xx]

Whats the name of the place dude??

[E_Honda]

don't know, i'll find out Monday morning when i drop my car at the auto electricians and let you know.

[integral90]

Jason how is the car going? What mods have you done since the intake?

[E_Honda]

Jason how is the car going? What mods have you done since the intake?

Hey man, lol i've actually taken off a mod and sold the intake and gone back to stock. So only got the other mods you saw at the cruise. Going for looks rather than performance. I'm trying to source a body kit now, going for the OEM skirts and rear and EuroR front lip. EuroR front lip is turning out to be the hardest to get my hands on.

What about you? have you lowered your car yet?

[integral90]

Hey man, lol i've actually taken off a mod and sold the intake and gone back to stock. So only got the other mods you saw at the cruise. Going for looks rather than performance. I'm trying to source a body kit now, going for the OEM skirts and rear and EuroR front lip. EuroR front lip is turning out to be the hardest to get my hands on.

What about you? have you lowered your car yet?

No :( car is still in epic 4WD mode

Soon though, need to decide what takes priority of my spending :D

You should do the aesthetics of your car and then supercharge. Have a sexy cruiser that's still fast as hell!