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View Full Version : DIY: CB Accord Rotor over Hub Conversion/282mm Rotor Upgrade



Eclipsor
03-05-2009, 11:21 PM
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!


Aim: CB and CD Accords came with a wierd front brake setup where the hub sits in front of the rotor. This makes changing or upgrading the rotors difficult and time consuming. This DIY will demonstrate how to swap the hub over rotor setup to a more common rotor over hub using all OEM parts on a 92 CB Accord. We will also upgrade the rotors and calipers to 282mm prelude items.

There are alot of variations to this using original sized rotors or just upgrading your rotors without the ROH conversion so if you have any questions just ask and I can try and point you in the right direction.

Required: Parts:
- New or re-use CB Accord front wheel bearings. (If re-using your old ones they need to be pressed out from the hub)
- 98 Acura CL 2.3 front wheel hubs (pressed onto bearings)
- 94 Prelude VTIR 282mm front brake rotors
- 23T Prelude caliper brackets
- 97 Prelude calipers/92 Accord wagon calipers with brake pads to match

Steps:

1. Jack up the car safely and remove the front wheels.

2. Remove the axle nut and push the drive shaft back through as far as it will go. You need this clearance to get the bolts off that hold the bearing onto the knuckle.

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/2726/dscf5001w.jpg (http://img9.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf5001w.jpg)

3. Remove the 12 point bolts holding the bearing to the knuckle from behind the knuckle. You'll probably need to use a ring spanner because its pretty tight in there.

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/1134/dscf5002.jpg (http://img9.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf5002.jpg)

4. Ideally you would now use a slide hammer to get the bearing off the knuckle. It isn't pressed in but it is pretty tight. We just used a big screw driver and bashed it in between to wedge it out. Once loose remove it from the knuckle.

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/2790/dscf5003.jpg (http://img13.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf5003.jpg)

http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/6840/dscf5004.jpg (http://img11.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf5004.jpg)

Old vs New bearing pressed into new hub.

http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/6214/dscf5005j.jpg (http://img11.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf5005j.jpg)

5. Fit the new bearing and hub to the knuckle and screw the bolts in from behind the knuckle again. The bearing will be tight again so use the bolts to tighten it in, in a criss-cross pattern.

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/4053/dscf5006.jpg (http://img9.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf5006.jpg)

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/4166/dscf5009.jpg (http://img9.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf5009.jpg)

6. Slide the new rotor on over the hub and tighten the set screws.

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/2678/dscf5010.jpg (http://img15.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf5010.jpg)

Old Vs New

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/6878/dscf5011q.jpg (http://img15.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf5011q.jpg)

7. Fit the new caliper bracket, pads and caliper.

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/3958/dscf5012e.jpg (http://img13.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf5012e.jpg)

Finished. (Ignore the writing the calipers are from a BB6 Prelude)

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/8491/dscf5013.jpg (http://img13.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf5013.jpg)

8. Fit the brake line to the new caliper and bleed the system.

Other comments

Thanks for the help dave

Sir_vtec
03-05-2009, 11:27 PM
Sexy.. nice work

Ksports :thumbsup:

CB7_OWNER
04-05-2009, 12:10 AM
WoW!!.. maybe i shall attempt this...

hey eclipsor
where did you source the : 98 Acura CL 2.3 front wheel hubs (pressed onto bearings)

Eclipsor
04-05-2009, 04:54 PM
I got the hubs shipped from these guys in the USA: http://oemacuraparts.com/

They were really quick and shipping was calculated automatically. The biggest downside of this conversion is the cost though. The hubs are expensive and so are the bearings if you get brand new.

I just got a mate to press the bearings onto the hubs at his work. Any mechanic should be able to do it.

SiReal
04-05-2009, 05:06 PM
98 accord parts don't work?

Eclipsor
04-05-2009, 08:44 PM
Not sure. There are two different types of Acura CL's. The 2.3 and the V6. You can only use the 2.3 for this swap. I'm not sure what equivalent models we have over here. If someone wants to give it a go I'd be very interested to see. You might be able to save some money and get 2nd hand ones from the wreckers. If buying new parts the prices are probably similar to what you'd pay from the USA. I actually bought the bearings from over there too because they were cheaper.

turtleEK1
10-05-2009, 07:31 AM
DIY looks good man! Had fun giving you a hand!

It sounded like sourcing the parts was the hardest thing to do. Because doing the swap was so easy! Plus a massive difference in size!

joyride
11-05-2009, 02:52 PM
2.3L is the F23A engine. its the 98-00 model accord (non-v6 obviously).

CB7_OWNER
14-05-2009, 10:59 AM
Hey cam, how much are we looking at in terms off AUD$ ?? for all the parts of this upgrade.


And to clarify : The 98 -02 Accord hubs will NOT work for this swap

Eclipsor
14-05-2009, 12:48 PM
It's been a while since I bought the parts but I'll try and remember.

- 2 new Acura hubs bit over $200
- 2 new Honda bearings bit over $200
- 2 2nd hand calipers/brackets $55
- 2 new RDA Prelude rotors $220
- front set of new prelude QFM A1rm brake pads $110

I'm not 100% sure about the 98-02 accord hubs. The issue with some of the hubs that nearly fit are the spline size/counts being different. Possibly the VTI-L F23A would work. Are they 4 x 114.3?

Would definitely be cheaper if you could get those hubs from a wrecker. Use 2nd hand bearings. (which I can give you for cheap if you want). Use slightly cheaper pads and rotors.

If you wanted to just do the ROH without the rotor/caliper upgrad you could use a cheaper brand rotor from the same car that you get the hub from (which are 260mm) then just use your old calipers/pads.

Or if you want to do just the rotor/caliper upgrade without ROH you can use parts from the CB9 accord wagon. These are still hub over rotor but have the 282mm rotor and the same calipers as the prelude vtir.

Chris_F
14-05-2009, 04:38 PM
awesome work cam...

a big upgrade at a reasonable price

CB7_OWNER
14-05-2009, 08:24 PM
Cam, you reckon the $700 odd bucks you spent was worth every cent for the upgrade? has the car seen the road yet since you put these on? or yet to try?

Eclipsor
14-05-2009, 10:54 PM
Still haven't had the car on the road and it won't be for a while yet. Alot of people on cb7tuner love it which was what I was going by. Sorry I can't be much more help atm. I know its a fair bit of money. I reackon if you're not sure about it maybe just wait until you need new rotors anyway. Then check prices on the 98 accord hubs from some wreckers. If they're cheap enough to just get and try if they work do that. Then as a first step just reuse your old bearings and get some new blank 98 accord rotors for cheap and reuse your old calipers and pads. Then its easy as to upgrade to the prelude stuff at a later date.

CB7_OWNER
17-05-2009, 06:36 PM
nah 98 accord hubs wont work, i read on one of the threads on cb7tuner...the centre bore and width and wot not are all different spec to acura 2.3

egSi
23-05-2009, 03:59 PM
hell yeah cam :thumbsup:

vinnY
13-07-2009, 12:50 AM
out of curiosity what size screws were used to hold down the rotors? m6?
been having some trouble finding some metric countersunk screws strangely enough

Eclipsor
13-07-2009, 12:54 AM
Not sure. I just got them off other hondas at the wreckers.

elemental_funk
20-07-2009, 10:34 PM
Could you please clarify something for me, i have found lots of cheap acura hubs all titled "acura wheel bearing hub", but the picture is that of the kinda squished square peice with the bearing in the middle. Is this the bit i am after, or is it the one with green stuff on the back of it with hub studs attached. If this isnt clear let me know, i was just about to order parts and got confused.
part number 1 or 2?:
http://www.oemacuraparts.com/schematics/mechanical/F616060.gif

Eclipsor
21-07-2009, 09:03 AM
Part number 1. 2 is the wheel bearing. :) Just make sure you get the right hub from the 2.3CL not the 3L.

joyride
27-07-2009, 03:22 PM
question: when you installed the new calipers, did you clamp off the brake hose prior to swapping? i'm about to do a brake upgrade but i'm a bit lost with this part as i dont want to get air bubbles in the braking system.

vinnY
27-07-2009, 03:27 PM
if you got rubber lines it's probably a good idea to clamp it otherwise take the caliper off and tie it somewhere safe with the line still attached and do it last so you get minimal fluid loss

joyride
27-07-2009, 03:43 PM
thanks for the reply. the part i'm worried about is that when i clamp my hose (yes its rubber), a little bit will drip out and some air will enter the hose.. when i plug the hose onto the new caliper, there will be a bit of air bubbles in the system... how do i get that out? open the bleeder valve and pump the brakes until i see brake fluid coming out? i think i'd need another person to tighten the bleeder valve while the fluid is still draining..?

vinnY
27-07-2009, 03:48 PM
well fluid will just go with gravity
air won't get in unless you suck it in
when it drips out of the hose, it'll just empty the reservoir then start to drain the lines but it'll take a while before that happens with gravity alone
when you whack on the new calipers you can always let it gravity bleed and keep the brake reservoir topped up or you can just do the normal method of bleeding brakes with a helper

joyride
27-07-2009, 04:03 PM
well fluid will just go with gravity
air won't get in unless you suck it in
when it drips out of the hose, it'll just empty the reservoir then start to drain the lines but it'll take a while before that happens with gravity alone
when you whack on the new calipers you can always let it gravity bleed and keep the brake reservoir topped up or you can just do the normal method of bleeding brakes with a helper
thanks for your help mate. i think i got this now

elemental_funk
28-07-2009, 03:40 PM
Hey just wondering where you got your calipers and brackets from so cheap? I called up honbits but they want 280 for these + disks (that i still need to get machined). Can anyone reccommend cheaper places to get this stuff? Thanks

Eclipsor
28-07-2009, 05:01 PM
Boss Wrecking in Brisbane. Not sure if they ship. Might cost more if they have to take them off aswell. cb7_owner is selling some calipers atm with cb9 brackets that I got at the same time as spares.