CL9 As a daily driver - options....

[wanna-euro]

Hi Guys,

Noob from SA here...

First of all - great forum, I can see myself spending far too long around here :D

If i may give you guys a bit of rundown of my situation and ask a few Qs?...

Basically I'm looking for a new ride for the Missus and something i can hop into on weekeends for a bit of fun without pretending I'm Lewis Hamilton etc.

We have both always loved the CL9s - since first seeing one on the road (and the famous COG ad!) and figure it would make the perfect daily driver for the GLW and make a nice break from a Diesel Triton for me come the weekend ;)

As the GLW has about an 80km round trip to look forward too something comfy and safe was top priority so i was thinking a Euro in auto guise would fit the bill - took some for a test and i was surprised at how enjoyable a drive it was and figured it would be an OK compromise...

...until we took out a 6speed tonight :D I'm stoked coz the missus has decided she prefers it and can live with the shifting every day.

The manual felt much tighter - ratio's are great and it also felt lighter? Is there much of a weight difference?

Anyhow i just wanted to know if there is anything in particular we should be looking at/for? FWIW we want a 2005update (or newer) Luxury spec 6 speed (with black trim not beige/woodgrain :P)

Also i can see a day when we may want to tinker a little bit - how does the JTune extreme package rate round here? Any other options for CAI,exhaust, reflash? I don't really want to mess with the driveability or reliability either so looking for some reassurance here ;)

Thanks for taking the time to read - I'm sure there will be many more questions - and hopefully one day i can contribute something useful back to the forum :D

Cheers guys.

[power_of_dreams]

they are good daily cars.
very good fuel efficiency if you drive smartly, and have the potential for a bit of fun when you get the urge

[yfin]

Yeah the 6 speed is a good pick - it is lighter and is also closer ratios so accelerates better.

And personally I don't rate the Jtune products. They are good at talking about how good they are but there is no substance after 5 years of talk. All they have delivered are excuses. Even if they offered me one for free I wouldn't take that extreme kit.

[dtngo]

I got my Euro to use as a daily & family car and don't have any regrets. Great size for my small family (have a baby seat for our 1 y.o) and great features & performance from the 6 speeder.

[10KRPM]

We have an 05 Euro lux and it is quite good as a daily. There are obvious flaws in it but as a daily driver that be ignored.

We have the auto version which is a god send in peak hour traffic. I havent driven a manual version but it would add that bit of responsiveness that the auto lacks that would make the euro even better.

I think Honda australia should seriously look into a sports version of the euro....its just begging for it.

[Rob_A]

till I moved to sydney I was going close to 200kms in mine everyday and it was a pleasure to do it in compared with the TS Astra. Now that I'm living in Sydney its lucky to do 50kms in a whole week. I'm very happy with mine. Good car to travel in and can have a bit fun with it when in the mood to.

Rob

[wanna-euro]

Cool - pretty active forum this - wasn't expecting so many replies already...
...thanks to everyone for confirming what we suspected :D

I'm so stoked the missus preferred the manual - more fun for me! I'm guessing there will be a few $$$ thrown at it over the next few months/years.

I have to say I'm very impressed with the chasis balance and general handling/roadholding of the Euro (mind you current car is a 97 Verada :D and my work 'truck') BUT can definitely see suspension and brake mods on the horizon (once we have a car to start with that is) - nothing too track-worthy but I'll ask for opinions on 'sports tuning' the ride characteristics when the time comes.

I'm starting to get a feeling that the Jtune stuff may be best avoided? I've seen some negative feedback (including below)... anyone beg to differ?


Yeah the 6 speed is a good pick - it is lighter and is also closer ratios so accelerates better.

And personally I don't rate the Jtune products. They are good at talking about how good they are but there is no substance after 5 years of talk. All they have delivered are excuses. Even if they offered me one for free I wouldn't take that extreme kit.

Final Q for tonight (promise) - if not JTune are there any other Chips, Exhaust & intake mods recommended for 'decent gains' (not necessarily 160+FWKW) without messing up driveability? Any Packages or combinations that are proven to work well?

P.S. Love that Vtec scream - just wish it was a little more audible (Honda have done a brill job with cabin noise! But it's still sooo quiet with the windows down!)

Cheers again guys,

[10KRPM]

hmmm i personally dont see the value in trying to get more out of the euro to be honest. Reading through other peoples threads on their engine/car build ups, you get very little for the largish amount of money you outlay.

There is a unichip on eaby for around 500 odd dollars...if you want to start right away :P

[Phased]

hmmm i personally dont see the value in trying to get more out of the euro to be honest. Reading through other peoples threads on their engine/car build ups, you get very little for the largish amount of money you outlay.

There is a unichip on eaby for around 500 odd dollars...if you want to start right away :P

This holds true for all Honda's. Extracting extra power from naturally aspirated engines of small capacity is always going to give little "Bang for Buck". In my opinion I think the K24 gives the most Bang for Buck. I/H/E with a piggy back you can see power in the mid 140kw's to the wheels... comparing that to the stock 100-110kw, this is a very large improvement.

As for drivability, if your tuner/ECU package manages to fine tune the VTC/VTEC crossover well you will end up with very nice power gains and a very good torque curve.

If I have learned anything about modifying euro's engine wise, it would be to stay away from the RBC Intake Manifold if you want it mainly as a daily driver. Unless the results change with a tune, you loose alot of low end and mid range torque. As integral90 mentioned, this is not particulary good with euro's as they have an abnormally long second gear.

[wanna-euro]

hmmm i personally dont see the value in trying to get more out of the euro to be honest. Reading through other peoples threads on their engine/car build ups, you get very little for the largish amount of money you outlay.
There is a unichip on eaby for around 500 odd dollars...if you want to start right away :P

Thanks 10K - need the car first though;)


This holds true for all Honda's. Extracting extra power from naturally aspirated engines of small capacity is always going to give little "Bang for Buck". In my opinion I think the K24 gives the most Bang for Buck. I/H/E with a piggy back you can see power in the mid 140kw's to the wheels... comparing that to the stock 100-110kw, this is a very large improvement.

Cheers for the reply Phased & Duly noted!
Mid 140's @wheels sounds awesome, plenty for any application i can ever think of needing in this car...so long as torque down low doesn't suffer that is :D

What sort of budget would you allocate for I/H/E & Piggy back chip? Any products you can recommend? (sorry if these are FAQs! I did see TODA recommended but am loathe to spend $3kish on headers for a sub $30k ride!) Ideally i am after decent gains without too much noise/hiss (no race car here) and decent quality without being NASA spec :D



As for drivability, if your tuner/ECU package manages to fine tune the VTC/VTEC crossover well you will end up with very nice power gains and a very good torque curve.

Hmmm sounds reassuring...getting tempted.


If I have learned anything about modifying euro's engine wise, it would be to stay away from the RBC Intake Manifold if you want it mainly as a daily driver. Unless the results change with a tune, you loose alot of low end and mid range torque. As integral90 mentioned, this is not particulary good with euro's as they have an abnormally long second gear.

Happy to take that experience on board - definitely don't wanna lose low/mid torque...GLW would not be happy on her way in to work every morn!

I'm sorry who is integral90 and where did they mention second gear?
Have to agree though i did notice 2nd is long, esp in relation to first! Laughed with the missus that she could pretty much get round town just with second and fifth in the Euro ;)

Thanks again for the excellent info already everyone, esp 10k and phased so far... can't wait to get behind the wheel in our own one now!

One thing i have noticed is it seems it may be worth flying over to Melb to buy - way more available and seem significantly cheaper than SA - esp the 2nd Hand prices from the Honda dealers themselves!

[blk05gli]

forget about chasing power, take your euro 6MT through the national park to Stanwell tops or up to brooklyn on the old pacific hwy and it will bring a smile to your face everytime, even in the wet :thumbsup:

[wanna-euro]

Not too concerned about chasing power - but i always like to tinker with factory if gains are worthwhile - and with the CL9 it looks as though they would be...

Not too sure about the roads you suggest - I'm guessing there in Syd? I'm in SA but i like the point you make...pretty much the reason i am looking for a CL9 to begin with: bendy, twisty roads.

(Back to power though! I see you run a K&N Panel. Worthwhile investment? Better induction noise? Throttle response? Power? Any noticeable gain?)

[blk05gli]

yeah, induction noise is improved, though you need to remove the resonator. throttle response and power, not really :-)

[aaronng]

In the Accord Euro section, there are quite a few threads where members experimented with panel filters, pod filters, cold air intakes and even the expensive $1100+ carbon fiber enclosed intakes. The header is probably the best bang for your buck gain if you can find one at a reasonable price. Mods are not cheap, especially the quality ones.

To further improve the handling, a stiffer rear sway bar will cut down on understeer by quite a bit.

[integral90]

Thicker swaybar! Changes the whole dynamic of the car! :D

[jyh888]

Thicker swaybar! Changes the whole dynamic of the car! :D

sorry to hijack but for those who bought the whiteline sway, does it come with bushings?? thanks

[Crapdaz]

Yes it does.

[wanna-euro]

So would my best bet be to upgrade the sway bar and strut bracing first?
Seems to be a pretty popular way to go (and the titanium comptech strut brace i saw on here looks like pure SEX!) and may bring a bigger smile than chasing power?

As a fun daily driver if the $$$ went into swaybar, strut brace and maybe Icebox first, followed by headers - would this be the best approach for an enjoyable ride? Can the factory Cat back system run efficiently enough to make headers a worthwile excersise? Or is a whole new exhaust on the cards? (really want to keep the ride as 'sleeper' as poss - thus the preference for Icebox over pod intakes)...

Thanks again for the help so far guys & looks like a road trip to Melb may be on in a couple/few weeks to make the purchase - can't wait to drive back interstate in a shiny CL9 :D

[Crapdaz]

It all really up to the driver, if you like cornering alot/spirited driving then suspension setup (e.g suspension, swaybars, strutbars etc) would be better.

Whereas ppl upgrade headers and stuff first because of what the euro is lacking on stock.

[wanna-euro]

Definitely more interested than a spirited hills drive/twisty road than trying to chase down Falcadores etc in the traffic light GP...

...basically though like most people I want it all :D Or at least as many pieces of the pie as i can have. I'm guessing though that sway bars and the like will make more difference to roadholding than a basic headers upgrade will make to power/throttle response etc.

I guess ultimately I am wanting to blend chasis/handling mods with extra grunt but still keep it a 'refined' daily driver without drawing too much attention (no interest in BLING or loud exhaust notes for the sake of being loud).

Don't mind spending the $$$ but will probably have to be done progressively (which is OK coz we hope to buy a low k car and keep for a few years).

Any takers on the Factory exhaust q?

I see you have some partsFS too Crapdaz... might have to see if getting sway bar, strutbrace and headers shipped together is worthwhile...

...I have no experience with any of these products though so how does the Progress sway bar rate? (anyone?)

...and the CUSCO strut bar?

...and the DCSport headers? :D

[Phased]

Definitely more interested than a spirited hills drive/twisty road than trying to chase down Falcadores etc in the traffic light GP...

...basically though like most people I want it all :D Or at least as many pieces of the pie as i can have. I'm guessing though that sway bars and the like will make more difference to roadholding than a basic headers upgrade will make to power/throttle response etc.

I guess ultimately I am wanting to blend chasis/handling mods with extra grunt but still keep it a 'refined' daily driver without drawing too much attention (no interest in BLING or loud exhaust notes for the sake of being loud).

Don't mind spending the $$$ but will probably have to be done progressively (which is OK coz we hope to buy a low k car and keep for a few years).

Any takers on the Factory exhaust q?

I see you have some partsFS too Crapdaz... might have to see if getting sway bar, strutbrace and headers shipped together is worthwhile...

...I have no experience with any of these products though so how does the Progress sway bar rate? (anyone?)

...and the CUSCO strut bar?

...and the DCSport headers? :D

Progress is good, better than Whiteline in my opinion. Whiteline's overall quality and lack of knowledge about Japanese cars is disappointing. Cusco is considered towards the high end when it comes to suspension/chassis modifications, I still see them as second to Ultra Racing/Carbing though. Due to a few design rules some more complex than others.

DC Sport headers are VERY good bang for buck. However you won't have as linear gain nor will the peak gain be as much as TODA for example. Personally though, I would prefer crapdaz's DC Sports + $2000 in my pocket, than toda. That $2000 could get you Sways, some chassis reinforcement, full exhaust with cat quite easily. Although maximum gain is with the toda, value for money, it falls far behind.

Suspension would be the first thing I would be modifying. Most vehicles even in stock form have potential that overcomes that of its driver. The weakest point of most stock vehicles is Handling. Most are bias towards understeer for safety and have low spring/damper rates for good, subtle road manners.

I'm going to start a blog of setting my Euro up for handling in the next month or so. Most of which will be done with DIY chassis modifications and swaybars at first.

Order I would perform Handling Modifications...
- Rear Swaybar + Polyurethane Swaybar bushes
- Koni Yellow Dampers (use stock springs for time being unless suitable combo is available)
- Rear Lower Tie Bar (4 Point) from Ultra Racing/Cusco or custom...
- Springs (Custom from Eibach/Spoon/King etc.) Rates: 6/5kgmm

Then I would start looking into the engine. However, besides small subtle mods, I can never see myself touching the engine all that much. It's got a nice torque curve and produces plenty of power to satisfy me on the street :p Also most importantly. IT WORKS, without fault!

[integral90]

I guess ultimately I am wanting to blend chasis/handling mods with extra grunt but still keep it a 'refined' daily driver without drawing too much attention (no interest in BLING or loud exhaust notes for the sake of being loud).

My exact approach. From my experience, I had the Euro with just the exhaust and intake resonators removed and I know the car is capable of mid-15's. Enough to give WRXs a run (from a roll) and enough to get you into trouble (as I found).

The car is pretty damn impressive and well-rounded when stock though, don't forget that :)

EDIT: Stock catback is also pretty damn good

[tony1234]

Progress is good, better than Whiteline in my opinion. Whiteline's overall quality and lack of knowledge about Japanese cars is disappointing. Cusco is considered towards the high end when it comes to suspension/chassis modifications, I still see them as second to Ultra Racing/Carbing though. Due to a few design rules some more complex than others.

DC Sport headers are VERY good bang for buck. However you won't have as linear gain nor will the peak gain be as much as TODA for example. Personally though, I would prefer crapdaz's DC Sports + $2000 in my pocket, than toda. That $2000 could get you Sways, some chassis reinforcement, full exhaust with cat quite easily. Although maximum gain is with the toda, value for money, it falls far behind.

Suspension would be the first thing I would be modifying. Most vehicles even in stock form have potential that overcomes that of its driver. The weakest point of most stock vehicles is Handling. Most are bias towards understeer for safety and have low spring/damper rates for good, subtle road manners.

I'm going to start a blog of setting my Euro up for handling in the next month or so. Most of which will be done with DIY chassis modifications and swaybars at first.

Order I would perform Handling Modifcations...
- Rear Swaybar + Polyurethane Swaybar bushes
- Koni Yellow Dampers (use stock springs for time being unless suitable combo is available)
- Rear Lower Tie Bar (4 Point) from Ultra Racing/Cusco or custom...
- Springs (Custom from Eibach/Spoon/King etc.) Rates: 6/5kgmm

Then I would start looking into the engine. However, besides small subtle mods, I can never see myself touching the engine all that much. It's got a nice torque curve and produces plenty of power to satisfy me on the street :p Also most importantly. IT WORKS, without fault!
I mostly agree with Phased.This is what i'd do.
Handling mods i'd do 1st.
1.Rear Swaybar + Polyurethane Swaybar bushes(18mm)
2.Koni(or Bilstein)shocks and springs(H&R or Eibach).Rear camber kit.
3.Tower strut brace.
Engine mods.2nd.
1.Intake.Comptech Icebox and K&N filter.
2.Headers.Comptech or DC sports or Topspeed.
Brake upgrade.
1.Performance brake pads(front only)Endless,Bendix Ultimate,Delphi.
You wont get much change out of $5K after you've done all of that.:eek:

[integral90]

1.Rear Swaybar + Polyurethane Swaybar bushes(18mm)
2.Koni(or Bilstein)shocks and springs(H&R or Eibach).Rear camber kit.
3.Tower strut brace.
Engine mods.2nd.
1.Intake.Comptech Icebox and K&N filter.
2.Headers.Comptech or DC sports or Topspeed.


Sounds a bit like a black Euro I've tailed through the windies :p

[jyh888]

does cusco make sway bars for the cl9? and if so where is the best place to purchase cusco products??

Would you guys recommend 17inch or 18inch rims for the euro? some say 17s will give better performance? but wont 18s offer more grip?

[tony1234]

does cusco make sway bars for the cl9? and if so where is the best place to purchase cusco products??
Not that i know of.JDM Concept(a trader here)

Would you guys recommend 17inch or 18inch rims for the euro? some say 17s will give better performance? but wont 18s offer more grip?
Not that i know of.JDM Concept(a trader here)
Definitely 17s,light weight rims with some good rubber.:thumbsup:

[tony1234]

Sounds a bit like a black Euro I've tailed through the windies :p
Hahahaha.

[wanna-euro]

Thanks again for all the repliesa guys...
...really getting excited now - i can't believe that Such an awesome 'allrounder' like the Euro can be had for slushy Calais money and so much less than the 'purebred Euro's' command when it really is every bit as good a car :D



Progress is good, better than Whiteline in my opinion. Whiteline's overall quality and lack of knowledge about Japanese cars is disappointing. Cusco is considered towards the high end when it comes to suspension/chassis modifications...

Good to know - this forum is seriously GOLD (Can't beat enthusiasts when researching a product...) Sad to hear about Whiteline, I had always assumed they were a good BFYB kinda company but I am only too happy to look at sticking with higher quality parts, even if second hand.



DC Sport headers are VERY good bang for buck...Personally though, I would prefer crapdaz's DC Sports + $2000 in my pocket, than toda. That $2000 could get you Sways, some chassis reinforcement, full exhaust...

Hmmm my sentiments exactly ;) As I'm not looking to build a race car (or even a 'hottie') decent mid level parts that offer real improvement over OEM are what I think I'm after - and if a given budget buys several products that all add to overall enhancement instead of one top of the line product like TODA headers, I'll happilly take the former route.



Suspension would be the first thing I would be modifying...I'm going to start a blog of setting my Euro up for handling in the next month or so. Most of which will be done with DIY chassis modifications and swaybars at first.

I'd be very interested to follow that blog...



Order I would perform Handling Modifications...
- Rear Swaybar + Polyurethane Swaybar bushes
- Koni Yellow Dampers (use stock springs for time being unless suitable combo is available)
- Rear Lower Tie Bar (4 Point) from Ultra Racing/Cusco or custom...
- Springs (Custom from Eibach/Spoon/King etc.) Rates: 6/5kgmm

Then I would start looking into the engine. However, besides small subtle mods, I can never see myself touching the engine all that much. It's got a nice torque curve and produces plenty of power to satisfy me on the street :p Also most importantly. IT WORKS, without fault!

I think I'm sold on the concept, it's not as if the Euro is particularly lacking in the power stakes. (So where would you recommend sourcing PU bushes 4 sway bar?)

With sway and strut bars does the stock suspension improve greatly? Are Koni Dampers necessary - where does the law of diminishing returns kick in? Would Koni dampers and stock springs sacrifice much in the way of ride comfort/smoothness? And same Q?> But with King springs over factory?

Sorry about all the NOOB questions - it's a pretty steep learning curve for me at the mo' :confused:


My exact approach. From my experience, I had the Euro with just the exhaust and intake resonators removed and I know the car is capable of mid-15's. Enough to give WRXs a run (from a roll) and enough to get you into trouble (as I found).

Great minds eh? Mid 15s? Damn that's impressive from a Pseudo luxo midsizer... Certainly wasn't expecting to have a car capable of worrying WRX'z :D

So what was this trouble you found yourself in integral?



The car is pretty damn impressive and well-rounded when stock though, don't forget that :)

EDIT: Stock catback is also pretty damn good

Spot on i guess - but it's easy to get carried away in modders paradise :P
BTW are you saying performance headers will work well with the stocky cat-back?


I mostly agree with Phased.This is what i'd do.
Handling mods i'd do 1st.
1.Rear Swaybar + Polyurethane Swaybar bushes(18mm)
2.Koni(or Bilstein)shocks and springs(H&R or Eibach).Rear camber kit.
3.Tower strut brace.
Engine mods.2nd.
1.Intake.Comptech Icebox and K&N filter.
2.Headers.Comptech or DC sports or Topspeed.
Brake upgrade.
1.Performance brake pads(front only)Endless,Bendix Ultimate,Delphi.
You wont get much change out of $5K after you've done all of that.:eek:

Thanks Tony, pretty much decided handling mods are the go :D Starting with beefed up bars.

Again i will ask you, the more experienced Euro drivers, Does the Euro really need shocks and springs? How much improvement does just the Bars upgrade make to handling? Will Konis etc 'harsh up' the GLWs daily driver (which would be a no-go!)

I'm glad you think the Icebox and K&N is a worth upgrade - much happier to go this route than pods - so where is best to source the Icebox?

Will have to see if Crapdaz still has their Headers and Bars available in a couple of weeks when we have hopefully purchased a ride :D

Bendix brake pads sound worth the upgrade $$ too


Thanks again everyone ;)
You ROCK!

[Phased]

With sway and strut bars does the stock suspension improve greatly? Are Koni Dampers necessary - where does the law of diminishing returns kick in? Would Koni dampers and stock springs sacrifice much in the way of ride comfort/smoothness? And same Q?> But with King springs over factory?

Sorry about all the NOOB questions - it's a pretty steep learning curve for me at the mo' :confused:


They will, without a doubt make a noticable improvement. Keep in mind that the entire suspension system has been designed for dynamic comfort and not so much spirited driving.

LOL @ Law of Diminishing returns! Your reminding me of Uni!

In all honesty the Modifications that would make the most differance when looking at them individually not as a group. Would be the dampers and swaybar. A swaybar upgrade is a must, however stock dampers are really quite average in every aspect except for build quality/life.

Don't expect your car to handle like it's on rails with a swaybar, it's a progessive build up to a complete package!

Also another valid point, Is if I were you I would go for a spirited drive once you get it. All music off, no distractions (including the wife, telling you stories of how you don't do this, you should do that... blah blah... lol). And pick the points of the cars handling you don't like the most. Work up from there. Obviously one point is going to be the cars major bias towards understeer. However try and feel the car out. Me for instance. I like a reactive car and a rigid chassis. Of course I'm not a fan of excessive body roll. However, swaybars and polyurethane bushes/endlinks are enough to bring the car up to standards in which I feel I will have to gain some more experience in driving the car for my skills to catch up, before I further improve the cars capabilities.

I know a "un-named person" on an "un-named road". That when timed does 1:58 in a modified DC2R compared to a 2:08 in a completely stock Automatic DA9 Integra. A good example of how much driver skill/experience plays a part in the overall speed/road holding that the car sustains. So it's good that instead of getting one mod and going drawing irrashional conclusions and spending further money on more modifications. Get to know what and how the modification improved/set back the cars handling and work from there. You may buy a modification that suits my style of driving, however you may strongly dislike it.



Again i will ask you, the more experienced Euro drivers, Does the Euro really need shocks and springs? How much improvement does just the Bars upgrade make to handling? Will Konis etc 'harsh up' the GLWs daily driver (which would be a no-go!)

To really get into the high G figures and good grip. You will need to upgrade the dampers/springs. However, for a street car that is only driven on spirited drives occasionally. Swaybars and some chassis reinforcement should suffice.

Replacing dampers will show greater gains than just replacing the springs. However, of course. To upgrade both would be by far best.

As for a harsher ride, Yes they will change it. The Koni Yellow's on the lowest setting won't change too much from standard... expessially if you have stock springs. A combo would be firm on the lowest setting but as long as you researched the combo... they shouldnt be uncomfortable.

************************************************** ********************************

ALSO a major point that hasn't got too much attention. Would be tyres. Almost the single most important part that delivers handling performance... the grip. It's obviously not going to be fantastic idea getting loud tyres which have a treadwear rating of 170 and are horrible in the wet. Expessially if your wife drives it and it's going to be a daily. However, when it comes time to change them over... Opt for something that will give you a better balance than the stock RE040's or the lower range stuff.

Tyres I would personally recommend would be;
- Bridgestone Potenza RE050's for the budget concious.
- Good Year Eagle F1 GS-D3's
- Yokohama S-Drives
- Falken FK-452

They're not tyres that are going to chew up tracks and so forth, however they offer a good balance between durability, life and performance.

[Crapdaz]

Who's Crapdaz? i don't know of anyone with that name!

Sorry for the spam guise! :)

[Crapdaz]

Handling first, Performance later to fill in the gaps of whatever the euro is missing.

[tony1234]

Good point re:tyres.All the engine and suspension mods in the world are not worth much without decent tyres.You shouldn't cut corners on tyres,buy the best you can afford.

[Crapdaz]

Good point re:tyres.All the engine and suspension mods in the world are not worth much without decent tyres.You shouldn't cut corners on tyres,buy the best you can afford.
So if i only can afford nankangs? then does that mean i am going to be fuk'd? :p

[tony1234]

So if i only can afford nankangs? then does that mean i am going to be fuk'd? :p
If you can only afford Nankangs you shouldn't be driving a Euro.;)

[Accord Basic]

hi, someone mentioned a unichip engine management on ebay, Is the unichip a good item? anyone know can it work with euro? which shop can do tunning in Perth?
Thanks

[Phased]

hi, someone mentioned a unichip engine management on ebay, Is the unichip a good item? anyone know can it work with euro? which shop can do tunning in Perth?
Thanks

I haven't heard bad things about them, however I'm pretty sure they don't have VTEC/VTC control. Very few Honda owners seem to use them, the majority use equipment mainly from Apexi, Greddy or Hondata. The price is in a range that is very expensive considering you don't get a display/user programmable options. My knowledge however, is not very deep when it comes to ECU Programming... So you would be best to ask the opinion of a tuner. Eg. Ray from ART or Adrian from Toda... I think either of these people wouldn't be bias even though they don't sell Unichip products...

[tony1234]

I haven't heard bad things about them, however I'm pretty sure they don't have VTEC/VTC control. Very few Honda owners seem to use them, the majority use equipment mainly from Apexi, Greddy or Hondata. The price is in a range that is very expensive considering you don't get a display/user programmable options. My knowledge however, is not very deep when it comes to ECU Programming... So you would be best to ask the opinion of a tuner. Eg. Ray from ART or Adrian from Toda... I think either of these people wouldn't be bias even though they don't sell Unichip products...
Adrian sells Haltech.$1500 installed,tuned drive away.