Funky feeling clutch pedal

[JMSBND]

My clutch is starting to feel a little weird again.

I replaced the clutch 15k ago with an Exedy Heavy duty unit. But lately it has a sticky sort of feeling again which I think might be the slave cylinder pushrod that needs to be filed smooth on the end again. I did poke my head under the dash after I looked at the fluid and it was quite dirty. I think the master cylinder is starting to leak? Would this make the shift from 1st to 2nd grind especially at high RPM occasionally? I am pretty good at heel toe and been track daying for years but the S2K box sometimes catches me out on 1st to 2nd.

Thanks

[markoJEK1]

If the cylinder is at fault it would cause gear shifting / selecting across the range not just 1st - 2nd , your synchro might be worn and getting worse.

[jaeyon]

my synchro is on its way out too :(

any idea if a usdm ap2 box will bolt on to an audm ap1? the ap2s have carbon synchros which are much stronger, and there seems to be an abundance of spares in the us.

Also any ideas if an ap2 box and motor will bolt in or is significant modification required? (due to the lhd,rhd)

[blk_shadow]

any idea if a usdm ap2 box will bolt on to an audm ap1? the ap2s have carbon synchros which are much stronger, and there seems to be an abundance of spares in the us.

Also any ideas if an ap2 box and motor will bolt in or is significant modification required? (due to the lhd,rhd)

I believe the difference between RHD and LHD is location of the brake booster and master cylinder, clutch slave and master cylinder, main fuse box and obviously battery.

engine harness needs to be lengthened or swapped over with the RHD ones.

Check the steering rack assembly compatibility

The Brake Master Cylinder will have to be repositioned and re-lined (depends on the link between the brake pedal and brake master cylinder)

All secondary accessories located on the firewall such as Blower motor, Heater core, AC duct, wires and cables will have to be re-positioned.
This depends on how the dashboard alligns with the consoles below

otherwise, just source one from Ap2 in Japan. easier and straight forward swap

[F20C]

I've got that same problem from 1st to 2nd but i've got a blown synchro and bent shift fork in 5th (i have no idea how the **** that happend but anyway) which i have to get fixed. That then leads into another gear causeing it to grind does it not? But it hardly ever does it.. But i'm just assuming its a blown synchro and a bent shift fork. If it was only a synchro i would always grind that gear? the only idea that i could come up with is a bent shift fork + blown synchro as it doesnt go into gear at all..

[blk_shadow]

I've got that same problem from 1st to 2nd but i've got a blown synchro and bent shift fork in 5th (i have no idea how the **** that happend but anyway) which i have to get fixed. That then leads into another gear causeing it to grind does it not? But it hardly ever does it.. But i'm just assuming its a blown synchro and a bent shift fork. If it was only a synchro i would always grind that gear? the only idea that i could come up with is a bent shift fork + blown synchro as it doesnt go into gear at all..

have you got it checked? and confirmed that you got a bent shift fork? have u checked the thrust bearing too?

[F20C]

havent done any of that but how would i check the thrust bearing?

[JAP-S2K]

I believe the difference between RHD and LHD is location of the brake booster and master cylinder, clutch slave and master cylinder, main fuse box and obviously battery.

engine harness needs to be lengthened or swapped over with the RHD ones.

Check the steering rack assembly compatibility

The Brake Master Cylinder will have to be repositioned and re-lined (depends on the link between the brake pedal and brake master cylinder)

All secondary accessories located on the firewall such as Blower motor, Heater core, AC duct, wires and cables will have to be re-positioned.
This depends on how the dashboard alligns with the consoles below

otherwise, just source one from Ap2 in Japan. easier and straight forward swap

Not exactly correct, Yes everything is different from LHD to RHD, but doing an engine swap to F22c in an AU s2k isn't difficult at all. As the engines are the same. Yes there is minor works required to some plugs and possibly(not sure) knock sensors could differ on an F22c. Possibly a good idea to invest in hondata ecu.

But in no way do you require to reposition the brake master cylinder, or any of the secondary accessories you listed above, as he's not planning to change his car to LHD.

[JAP-S2K]

my synchro is on its way out too :(

any idea if a usdm ap2 box will bolt on to an audm ap1? the ap2s have carbon synchros which are much stronger, and there seems to be an abundance of spares in the us.

Also any ideas if an ap2 box and motor will bolt in or is significant modification required? (due to the lhd,rhd)

Why not get the synchro's redone? the box in the s2000's are actually an easy box to rebuild, just source your syncro's and buy a mission final drive (changes your final drive ratio to 4.3:1), these parts are reasonably cheap. And buy the time you source a second hand one, there'll be a good chance it to could need a rebuild. Also with changing you final drive inside your gearbox, there's no diff whine that some final drive gears can make.

[jaeyon]

interesting point. i was mainly looking at doing a gearbox/motor swap to all f22c stuff if mine ever dies. they seem to be pretty cheap as spares in the us (though shipping might bring the price up). my gears are actually holding up ok atm, and its only the 2nd gear synchro that im a bit concerned about.

next mod is 4.77 final diff gear, but ill suss out how much an ap2 tranny will cost me first as the ap2 gear ratios are also shorter.

anyone know if a usdm ap2 tranny will bolt right up to an aussie f20c?