1987 GL hond civic

[-D15B4-]

G'day i am new to the honda world as well as this forum.
Anyway.... The wife drives the car as above and i am wondering if i could gather some info about it. I am new to hondas but have a good knowledge of cars.
Cheers
Firstly it has the D15B4 motor which has the usual black smoke warm up.
I figure the wax valve could be blocked or something, not a big deal.
Might opt for the manual choke (D14A ???)
What i was wondering mainly was the power windows.
The Front RHS MOTOR is stuffed, Switch has 12v, put 12v into the motor no load and still nothing, Broke it down, Clean and re-greased it still nothing.
I am having great difficulty in locating a motor. Can i used any 4th GEN. Motor or does it have to be ED 87.????
What models have interchangeable parts (doors, bumpers etc.)?????
I wouldnt mind even putting back a manual regulator in there???
Any ideas of thoughts would be great.
Cheers guys, and gerls

[JDT]

This a really lazy reply but redpepperracing.com in where you want to go. Contains lots of great info on the 3rd gen.

[~Sp33~]

This a really lazy reply but redpepperracing.com in where you want to go. Contains lots of great info on the 3rd gen.

That's completely useless seeing that he has a 4th gen.

The hatchback front bumper is interchangeable. There are an absolute tonne of these models in wrecking yards, so it shouldn't be hard finding a motor for the power windows.

The doors and rear bumpers aren't interchangeable with any other model apart from the sept 87-91 Civic sedan.

Black smoke on startup.. How's the idle? It won't be worth converting to a manual choke.

[JDT]

LOL, don't know how I can read 87 an miss ED right after it...

The motors are interchangable, should be able to find one fairly cheap too.

[-D15B4-]

Cheers peeps
So any 4th gen power window motor will do.
Idle is rough when cold, unless you give it a rev for abit (upto 3k) Then a 'fast idle' seems to kick in. If i let it run itself it idles rough but only for about 5min max.
Cheers again

[~Sp33~]

I think the actual motor is the same, but the mechanism the motor attaches to is different.

You might want to check for vacuum leaks for your idle problem.

[-D15B4-]

cheers
You mean the regulator???
would it be possible to adapt it to suit mine???
Is it the clog that differs???
would another 4th gen motor and regulator fit into my door??

I will also check for a vacuum leak...
i'l let ya know how i go.
Cheers

[~Sp33~]

cheers
You mean the regulator???
would it be possible to adapt it to suit mine???
Is it the clog that differs???
would another 4th gen motor and regulator fit into my door??

I will also check for a vacuum leak...
i'l let ya know how i go.
Cheers

It'd be safer just to stick with another 4dr one.

the hatchback and CRX doors are different to the 4dr, and i think the way the regulator bolts to the doors is different. Perhaps it's possible to adapt it, though i haven't tried.

[-D15B4-]

Cheers for all your help.
So if i use the motor out of a 3dr it might bolt up to my 4dr regulator.
I understand that i couldnt use the hatch back regulator because the door\window is probably bigger.

[-D15B4-]

I sourced both front and rear motor/regs in as new cond. for $200 bob.
Front one works a charm now.
Back Motor/Reg wasn't needed. but will keep the one i bought anyone as a spare.
I am trying to find a Driver side Main Switch??

As for the motor i am still having fast idle issues?????????????
Cars a bugger to start in the morn, blows black smoke unless i keep in above 2,500rpm??????
Seems to idle at 2k rpm all the time, Coolant Temp. doesnt affect idle?????
I have been reading the Concerto online PDF 1.6 dual carby is apparently the same????
Also the car seems to have a pre-ignition problem????
And will occasionally 'After run' Once I turned the car off???

Thanks for all your help so far.
Keep it coming.
Cheers

[-D15B4-]

Well after buying a new drivers side switch the Rear RHS power window still doesnt work???
I have tested the motor with a jump pack and it works fine.
Could it be the Rear RHS power window switch???
Or a fault in the loom somewhere.????
Any Ideas???

Also
The Fast Cam is stuck in a on position???
When the car is warm it was over reving heaps and would even after run sometimes???
I have dodgied up the fast cam for now but was wondering what would cause this???
The idle has been fine since I dodgied the Fast cam, but its a bit hard to start now.....No fast idle?????
Faulty thermovalve???
I have done a few vacuum line tests and everything seems to be fine????
Any takers???
Timing is also fine???

Cheers

[~Sp33~]

Id test the power outputs of your power window switch up to and after it to see where the break in your circuit is.

I'm not sure on your idle issues though sorry.

[-D15B4-]

Id test the power outputs of your power window switch up to and after it to see where the break in your circuit is.

I'm not sure on your idle issues though sorry.

Cheers

Main power window switch______check+wire______Rear RHS switch_____check+wire_____powerwindow motor.

This was wat i was planning to do.

Does this make sense????
Is this wat you were suggesting

[~Sp33~]

Yeah, check to see if those wires have power, if not, trace it backwards until the wire does have power, and replace whatever is in between.

[-D15B4-]

Cheers Buddy
I will check it out and get back to you
Cheers for all the help

[~Sp33~]

No drama, hope you find the problem.

[-D15B4-]

Power windows all sorted.
Few dodgey plugs here and there all is good now.

New problem!!!
Someone has used a random bolt with a spring over it instead of a sump plug.
Luckily my local had one for me but the sump thread must be damaged. (Still leaking abit)
Does anyone have a 88-91 CIVIC SUMP they could sell me???
Its the D15B4 1500 DUAL CARB MOTOR

Cheers

[~Sp33~]

I find that using silicone on the thread when you put the bolt in will prevent minor leaks.

[-D15B4-]

G'day All
Honda broke down on Friday.... NO SPARK.
Any way after pulling down the elec. dizzy and cleaning her up the coil had spark..... good spark.

The car ran for 45mins than dies. NO SPARK.

After looking at the condition of the cap. I thought new cap.
The rotor button on the top of the inside of the cap was seizing.

I knew I was up for abit with a electric dizzy assembly....Even second hand.

I bought a second hand dizzy assembly. $180 :(
Looking at the new dizzy it looked worst than my old one, which had spark at the coil.
So I just used the cap and she was running.

After a good 1hour of idling in the garage I took it for a drive.
Car seemed to run fine except when I gave her abit from a standing still, it would bog out like it was getting weak spark.
As soon as you backed off abit it would fire a ran.
After a good 1/2 drive I figure this bog out was faulty leads.

The missus took the car shopping all day no problems.
On the way to pick up some feed it breaks down again.
No spark at leads.
No spark at cap.
YET TO CHECK COIL....AGAIN

Do you think the coil has had it, maybe cleaning if up gave it one last go at life????

The timing was checked, and wasn't moved.
I like the dizzy setup on these. Cant go wrong with the markings etc.


Any Takers.

[-D15B4-]

Second hand dizzy went in
Problem solved.