Estimated Kw gains from a few mods?

[TegzGsi]

Hey there I have quite a rare honda (Integra Gsi b18b1 motor year 2000)
Well lets just get to the point. Im about to do some work on the engine pretty much all the easy work and just wanted to know what my gains could be expected to be.

Mods are:

Cold air induction kit.
Straight through exhaust cat back 2.5”
Skunk2 Intake manifold.
Skunk2 Throttle body.
Header

All the easy work for a start as I'm still on my P's and a young guy.

If you have any better ideas I would love to hear them your answers will be much appreciated.

Also please let me know if you think I have chosen the wrong forums to post in and if so I apologise.

[GSi_PSi]

lol at gsi being rare...
ummm to be honest dont expect much dude, my mate had similar mods on his gsi and got 92kw on a hub dyno (which supposedly reads much higher than normal dyno).
With the Skunk2 intake manifold, to exibit gains from it your will need a tuneable computer.

[ksl]

is also depends on your engine conditions etc. but i believe you should get 10 kw out of them IMO

[delsol9000rpms]

get a Vtec Head .. search ls/vtec on the internet

[Limbo]

you'll get some improvement, but its really hard to tell you even roughly.
Only way is if you dyno it before & after.

reasons is because we don't know the condition of your car, which parts barring the branded ones you've put on & also which dyno your gonna be testing on. Even then it would be best estimated guess

All can give you different readings of kws

[4shizz]

skunk 2 manifolds are overrated mate. if you have the oem honda manifold with varible dual intake runners, get it ported out, builds the torque and power better than most other intake manifolds. smater choice esp for price and the the added bonus of having the noise of a crossover from the varible intake runners swapping over.

also, get a B16a2 head, port it and build a ls/vtec motor.

gsi's arn't rare buddy.

[TegzGsi]

Lol guys I wasn't saying a Gsi is rare just my ones year.

Any way well the Engine is in great condition stock as a rock never been thrashed (model use to own it) lol.

Yeah well I see what you guys mean might aswell just do a frankenstein change the head to a Vtec...

[joe.teg]

or better still save the $$$ and buy a b20 and do a vtec conversion... masses of torque !!!!

[TegzGsi]

or better still save the $$$ and buy a b20 and do a vtec conversion... masses of torque !!!!

Not possible due to me being on my P's it will require a "Mod plate" which is illigal on your P's...

Atleast by just changing the engine head there is much less chance of being caught out due to the engine block still being the same and reading B18b1 on it.

[ZeForce]

Not possible due to me being on my P's it will require a "Mod plate" which is illigal on your P's...

Atleast by just changing the engine head there is much less chance of being caught out due to the engine block still being the same and reading B18b1 on it.

Yeah, stay with the B18b bottom end if it's still in good condition.... LSVTEC + I/H/E + IM/TB + tuning = 110-120kw @wheels with the right combination of parts

[GSi_PSi]

btw your engine cannot read b18b1 unless its an american imported engine lol which i highly doubt. AUDM gsi engines are b18b2

[joe.teg]

Not possible due to me being on my P's it will require a "Mod plate" which is illigal on your P's...

Atleast by just changing the engine head there is much less chance of being caught out due to the engine block still being the same and reading B18b1 on it.

depends what state you live in, in nsw i believe that if u go from a 1.8- a 2.0 it is still legal

[TegzGsi]

btw your engine cannot read b18b1 unless its an american imported engine lol which i highly doubt. AUDM gsi engines are b18b2

No Mr.Gsi_Psi I'm really not that much of a "noob" lol

On the block it is stamped B18b1 that is why I said it's rare...
And also it being a year 2000 car.. Pretty sure thats one of the last years of Gsi production.. Don't quote me on that though.

But yeah says B18b1 it has more power than the older Gsi version due to it being able to red line higher.

[GSi_PSi]

where does it say that "b18b1 has more power than the older gsi version"
i think you getting confused with a b18a from a da9

[TegzGsi]

where does it say that "b18b1 has more power than the older gsi version"
i think you getting confused with a b18a from a da9

No listen ok on the engine block it is clearly visible B18b1 and it is in my stock as a rock Gsi year 2000 ok, now on the Stock rev meter in the car it reads that it's redline is at 7,500 Rpm all Gsi's don't redline at that...

[TegzGsi]

where does it say that "b18b1 has more power than the older gsi version"
i think you getting confused with a b18a from a da9

Also says JHMDC4
B18B1 is on the block the 8 is abit hard to see but the b1 is clear as day.
dec 00 is the date

[totti]

FWIW - GSI's were also built & delivered in 2001

[TegzGsi]

FWIW - GSI's were also built & delivered in 2001

Note I said I think and also don't quote me on that so yeah like I said wasn't sure.

[GSi_PSi]

post a pic and lets see this 7500rpm rev limit. as gsi engines stop making power past 6800rpm.

[dudeling7]

wow really? gsi with 7500rpm i'd liek to see this never knew it existed?

[DC4Integra98]

me too, post us a pic

[TegzGsi]

post a pic and lets see this 7500rpm rev limit. as gsi engines stop making power past 6800rpm.

Will do guys I wanted to ask if you were that interested I can post one just give me a few hours also I have an assessment (study at tafe)

I will take a picture of the rev guage, engine, engine number, and the plate which states what year and Dc4 ect...

[TegzGsi]

C:\Documents and Settings\User\My Documents\My Pictures\SV400018.JPG

[TegzGsi]

Alrite sorry guys my mistake it's 7,000 I have only owned the car for a very short while.. any way the engine number is still a B18B1 though how do I add the photos?

[GSi_PSi]

lol your proving to be "that much of a noob" mr Tegzgsi but we all start somewhere so
do you knoe how to host images? first you need to upload it to this website
http://imageshack.us/
then use the insert image button to show on a thread.
Im very curious to your engine number as to how an b18b1 could find its way here

[TegzGsi]

Will do guys I wanted to ask if you were that interested I can post one just give me a few hours also I have an assessment (study at tafe)

I will take a picture of the rev guage, engine, engine number, and the plate which states what year and Dc4 ect...


lol your proving to be "that much of a noob" mr Tegzgsi but we all start somewhere so
do you knoe how to host images? first you need to upload it to this website
http://imageshack.us/
then use the insert image button to show on a thread.
Im very curious to your engine number as to how an b18b1 could find its way here

Lol that noob part was in relation to the B18b1 bit.. But yeah at least I did apologise I guess. Alrite if you want to see it so much I will still upload the photo's.

[TegzGsi]

http://img190.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sv400018.jpg]http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/345/sv400018.th.jpg[/URL]

[joe.teg]

I dunno why we waste our time, the b18b is a shit motor, no power, no torque and the main reason why hondas are such an enjoyable car is vtec which the b18b doesnt posses lol

[TegzGsi]

http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/345/sv400018.jpg

[TegzGsi]

Enjoy
http://img190.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=sv400016.jpg

[TegzGsi]

I dunno why we waste our time, the b18b is a shit motor, no power, no torque and the main reason why hondas are such an enjoyable car is vtec which the b18b doesnt posses lol

Actually "Joe" the B18B1 has more torque than a Vti-r if im not wrong.

Plus the engine has 107 Kw and a Vti-r has what 120 ? or 125?

[nigs]

lol it's still shit.

HORAH!

[TegzGsi]

lol it's still shit.

HORAH!

Man a I would like to see you design a better engine.

[joe.teg]

lol.
The VTI-R has 127KW at the motor with 173NM
The GSI has 107KW at the motor with 172NM
1 nm is virtually no difference but it still proves my point and the power difference is the decider.
B18C2 FTW!
plus... IMO i think that a honda without vtec should be called a hondud (dud honda)

[nigs]

2 triangle things that spin around really fast with big ports.
A T51R snail hanging off it with a 100 shot of laughing gas to spool it.

But your B18B1 would still make more torque right?
Geeze, you must do alot of hill climbs.

[TegzGsi]

lol.
The VTI-R has 127KW at the motor with 173NM
The GSI has 107KW at the motor with 172NM
1 nm is virtually no difference but it still proves my point and the power difference is the decider.
B18C2 FTW!
plus... IMO i think that a honda without vtec should be called a hondud (dud honda)

Well no it doesn't prove your point as you said that the Gsi has "no" torque but actually it's like the same man and yes the Vti-r has more Kw still doesn't make it a shit motor though.

But thats your opinion so think what you want really.

Also this Thread isn't to argue which motor is best I just wanted to ask a couple of questions man what do you expect a young guy to do all I wanted to do is learn

[nigs]

learn how to vtec.

[joe.teg]

i wasnt havin a go i was just giving you bois my opinion.

the question you asked was VERY broad coz every motor breaths differently,
2.5" straight through would be hughely loud and unbareable in the car, as for power a 2.25" would be better,
Headers, depends on wwhat headers you run and depening on your motor, id say between 7 and 10kw at the motor maybe, im very unsure... as for the manifold and throttle body, you need a tune to make these mods work, i remember reading in another thread that it is better to keep you standard throttle body and port it but that was with a vtec motor.
With the CAI id add around 10-15kw at the wheels, as with all mods you need a tuneable computer to make the best of these mods. If you get the IM & TB you NEED a tunable ecu to make thses mods work in other than a sttock way if you get my drift...

Hope this helps

[TegzGsi]

i wasnt havin a go i was just giving you bois my opinion.

the question you asked was VERY broad coz every motor breaths differently,
2.5" straight through would be hughely loud and unbareable in the car, as for power a 2.25" would be better,
Headers, depends on wwhat headers you run and depening on your motor, id say between 7 and 10kw at the motor maybe, im very unsure... as for the manifold and throttle body, you need a tune to make these mods work, i remember reading in another thread that it is better to keep you standard throttle body and port it but that was with a vtec motor.
With the CAI id add around 10-15kw at the wheels, as with all mods you need a tuneable computer to make the best of these mods. If you get the IM & TB you NEED a tunable ecu to make thses mods work in other than a sttock way if you get my drift...

Hope this helps

Thanks yea I was pretty sure I would need to change the ECU but thanks and I do notice from what every one has said that you can't really say due to so many things being involved.

[joe.teg]

yeeah
i got a 2.25 inch catback and the difference is amazing, ive got an injen cai aswell and its ****ing awsome, gonna get my IM ported soon aswell, getting headers and a tune in the near future. GL with it man

[TegzGsi]

yeeah
i got a 2.25 inch catback and the difference is amazing, ive got an injen cai aswell and its ****ing awsome, gonna get my IM ported soon aswell, getting headers and a tune in the near future. GL with it man

Why don't you just port and polish it yourself?

[joe.teg]

then nothing will be matched correctly, dads in the trade and will get it done for me for nothing haha, it will be an infinately better jod than i can do myslef and i can specify specs etc. You have a gsi so you wouldnt know what dual intake runners sound like, i cant wait !

[TegzGsi]

then nothing will be matched correctly, dads in the trade and will get it done for me for nothing haha, it will be an infinately better jod than i can do myslef and i can specify specs etc. You have a gsi so you wouldnt know what dual intake runners sound like, i cant wait !

Yeah well if your dad can do it then why wouldn't you lol
I started a new thread to see if I can get a build that will add like 30 or so Kw at the engine so I'll see what info I can get from that then I will decide what I will do..

[joe.teg]

the mods you are aiming for will give you mmore than that... fork out for a new ecu and a tune and ull get heaps more out of it :D

[TegzGsi]

the mods you are aiming for will give you mmore than that... fork out for a new ecu and a tune and ull get heaps more out of it :D

Wow I was thinking getting the head sent and and so on aswell so tell me if I have the same or more torque and the same or more Kw than a Vti-r do I stand a chance?

[Encor3]

i wasnt havin a go i was just giving you bois my opinion.

the question you asked was VERY broad coz every motor breaths differently,
2.5" straight through would be hughely loud and unbareable in the car, as for power a 2.25" would be better,
Headers, depends on wwhat headers you run and depening on your motor, id say between 7 and 10kw at the motor maybe, im very unsure... as for the manifold and throttle body, you need a tune to make these mods work, i remember reading in another thread that it is better to keep you standard throttle body and port it but that was with a vtec motor.
With the CAI id add around 10-15kw at the wheels, as with all mods you need a tuneable computer to make the best of these mods. If you get the IM & TB you NEED a tunable ecu to make thses mods work in other than a sttock way if you get my drift...

Hope this helps
I've got 2.5 inch straight through with twinloop, and its quieter then my friends stock prelude with canon muffler.


Wow I was thinking getting the head sent and and so on aswell so tell me if I have the same or more torque and the same or more Kw than a Vti-r do I stand a chance?

who cares if you have more power then a vti-r?

[TegzGsi]

I've got 2.5 inch straight through with twinloop, and its quieter then my friends stock prelude with canon muffler.



who cares if you have more power then a vti-r?

That is very true but if I did quite abit of work to the engine it would be pretty satisfying.

[hotdc2]

Guys, don't think that you will get a reasonable gain in KWatw with just these mods:

Cold air induction kit.
Straight through exhaust cat back 2.5”
Skunk2 Intake manifold.
Skunk2 Throttle body.
Header

You will see significant improvement in response etc but you won't make 30-40kw out of it. To go from an engine with around 85kwatw stock to 110-120 you'd need to do a bit more than bolt on mods. That is unless you do the vtec conversion.. you should hit it then, but don't expect not to have any problems with the police. These mods are all still illegal for P Plate drivers and are far more obvious than just a vtec conversion or motor swap. Be prepared to pay big fines if you're going to run a straight pipe on your car.
I own a Dc2 and Dc4 and i can tell you now that the difference feels outstanding. I'm on my Ps and i'm modding my Dc2 currently. I have the Injen CAI, BLox filter/velocity stack, Skunk2 IM (stock TB) on there currently and the response is much better, but i can't see there being a big difference on the dyno. Plans for Hondata s300, RMF 4-1 Header and catback exhaust and i can't wait for that, but if i make a 120+ kwatw I willbe cheering. As Yonas keeps reminding me Dyno doesn't mean shiit. Track your car up the 1/4 and that will show you what all your money, time, and effort is really worth..

If you can get that much power dude then good luck I'd love to see it, just don't get ahead of yourself..

[TegzGsi]

Guys, don't think that you will get a reasonable gain in KWatw with just these mods:

Cold air induction kit.
Straight through exhaust cat back 2.5”
Skunk2 Intake manifold.
Skunk2 Throttle body.
Header

You will see significant improvement in response etc but you won't make 30-40kw out of it. To go from an engine with around 85kwatw stock to 110-120 you'd need to do a bit more than bolt on mods. That is unless you do the vtec conversion.. you should hit it then, but don't expect not to have any problems with the police. These mods are all still illegal for P Plate drivers and are far more obvious than just a vtec conversion or motor swap. Be prepared to pay big fines if you're going to run a straight pipe on your car.
I own a Dc2 and Dc4 and i can tell you now that the difference feels outstanding. I'm on my Ps and i'm modding my Dc2 currently. I have the Injen CAI, BLox filter/velocity stack, Skunk2 IM (stock TB) on there currently and the response is much better, but i can't see there being a big difference on the dyno. Plans for Hondata s300, RMF 4-1 Header and catback exhaust and i can't wait for that, but if i make a 120+ kwatw I willbe cheering. As Yonas keeps reminding me Dyno doesn't mean shiit. Track your car up the 1/4 and that will show you what all your money, time, and effort is really worth..

If you can get that much power dude then good luck I'd love to see it, just don't get ahead of yourself..



and how is changing the engine to a whole different engine not more obvious lol the engine number will change then or do they not check the most obvious thing of them all? And yes the straight through will be but if i was to just change the Catback I think it should be fine

[hotdc2]

if you changed the engine to a b18c7 and painted the rocker cover black, that would be more subtle than a big shiny chrome intake pipe or header. You make it look stock and you wont have a problem. your average copper doesn't check the stamp on the engine on the side of the road.. they will pin you for obvious stuff like window tint, or CF bits and pieces and shiny things in the engine bay that aren't supposed to be there.

Don't fire up at me man i'm just trying to help you out and save you some pain. anything you do to your car is defectable without being engineered. If it is exhaust related then you have to have passed EPA testing as well. basically anything thats not stock, for a p-plater it will land you in trouble. whatever you decide to do though, just drive normal and safely on the streets, draw less attention to yourself and leave the hooning etc for track days and WSID street meets. This way you have less chance of getting raped by the po.

[defect]

B16a2 head ftw!

[joe.teg]

Guys, don't think that you will get a reasonable gain in KWatw with just these mods:

Cold air induction kit.
Straight through exhaust cat back 2.5”
Skunk2 Intake manifold.
Skunk2 Throttle body.
Header

You will see significant improvement in response etc but you won't make 30-40kw out of it. To go from an engine with around 85kwatw stock to 110-120 you'd need to do a bit more than bolt on mods. That is unless you do the vtec conversion.. you should hit it then, but don't expect not to have any problems with the police. These mods are all still illegal for P Plate drivers and are far more obvious than just a vtec conversion or motor swap. Be prepared to pay big fines if you're going to run a straight pipe on your car.
I own a Dc2 and Dc4 and i can tell you now that the difference feels outstanding. I'm on my Ps and i'm modding my Dc2 currently. I have the Injen CAI, BLox filter/velocity stack, Skunk2 IM (stock TB) on there currently and the response is much better, but i can't see there being a big difference on the dyno. Plans for Hondata s300, RMF 4-1 Header and catback exhaust and i can't wait for that, but if i make a 120+ kwatw I willbe cheering. As Yonas keeps reminding me Dyno doesn't mean shiit. Track your car up the 1/4 and that will show you what all your money, time, and effort is really worth..

If you can get that much power dude then good luck I'd love to see it, just don't get ahead of yourself..

With the suggested mods and a new ecu and tune he wont get 30-40kw atw but he will see close to that if not more POSSIBLY at the motor... how many kms are on it atm tegs?

[TegzGsi]

if you changed the engine to a b18c7 and painted the rocker cover black, that would be more subtle than a big shiny chrome intake pipe or header. You make it look stock and you wont have a problem. your average copper doesn't check the stamp on the engine on the side of the road.. they will pin you for obvious stuff like window tint, or CF bits and pieces and shiny things in the engine bay that aren't supposed to be there.

Don't fire up at me man i'm just trying to help you out and save you some pain. anything you do to your car is defectable without being engineered. If it is exhaust related then you have to have passed EPA testing as well. basically anything thats not stock, for a p-plater it will land you in trouble. whatever you decide to do though, just drive normal and safely on the streets, draw less attention to yourself and leave the hooning etc for track days and WSID street meets. This way you have less chance of getting raped by the po.

Lol I really wasn't going off at you I just find it strange how if you change a whole engine ect... but Im pretty sure they do check that though man cause if the plate in your engine bay says B18b1 and the engine says B18C7 then well it is a fact that you have changed it...

[TegzGsi]

With the suggested mods and a new ecu and tune he wont get 30-40kw atw but he will see close to that if not more POSSIBLY at the motor... how many kms are on it atm tegs?

130,000 Kms on the clock the car has really been driven lightly due to who it was owned by before me.

[dudeling7]

30kw atw is a massive feat man. thats hard even on a b18c7 motor to acheive without working the head at least!

ive got a gsi too man, and done most bolt on mods apart from intake manifold as i dont see its worth it, but my car made 95kw atw on a couple roller dynos and feels like a totally different car, probably give a lot of vtirs a run man.

From my experience the best mods i have done are my lightweight flywheel and if you were to change the final drive of you car. response is great and your car will feel very different and just more free.

if you were to keep your engine for the long run then i would just get high quality IHE. if you are still not satisfied but still want to keep it non vtec get some crower 404 cams, these make great power till 8k but to get the best out of it you will need to;

- bigger TB
- new intake manifold all port matched
- valvespring and retainers
- cam gears
- rod bolts
- raise compression (new pistons i.e CTR work well)
- stand alone ECU

which is pretty much building your whole motor!

[TegzGsi]

30kw atw is a massive feat man. thats hard even on a b18c7 motor to acheive without working the head at least!

ive got a gsi too man, and done most bolt on mods apart from intake manifold as i dont see its worth it, but my car made 95kw atw on a couple roller dynos and feels like a totally different car, probably give a lot of vtirs a run man.

From my experience the best mods i have done are my lightweight flywheel and if you were to change the final drive of you car. response is great and your car will feel very different and just more free.

if you were to keep your engine for the long run then i would just get high quality IHE. if you are still not satisfied but still want to keep it non vtec get some crower 404 cams, these make great power till 8k but to get the best out of it you will need to;

- bigger TB
- new intake manifold all port matched
- valvespring and retainers
- cam gears
- rod bolts
- raise compression (new pistons i.e CTR work well)
- stand alone ECU

which is pretty much building your whole motor!

And whats wrong with doing the internals ?
Okay to build a reliable Ls/Vtec you have to change the Valve springs retainers any way man and also very recommended to change pistons and you need to change water pump and oil pump and alot more things in the end of the day it's just as much or more work for an engine wich wouldn't be as reliable...

[dudeling7]

when did i say go ls/vtec???

i said its alot of work to pull 30 kw atw man, you will have to get a perfect combination of parts and spend a lot of time tuning.

plus building an lsvtec or even building a b18b is useless with its stock gearing. you would want at least a lower fd, b16 tranny, b18c2 or b18c7 tranny. im just weighing up the cost for u man because i was in the same position as you.

might as well just get a b18c7 conversion for 5-6k which will be the most reliable and go from there. If you did that thats your 30kw advantage in one go.


but if you want to be different do it. i would like to see someone stick with the old b18b and build the shit out of it! no one has really done it properly in australia to date that i can think of.....

[TegzGsi]

when did i say go ls/vtec???

i said its alot of work to pull 30 kw atw man, you will have to get a perfect combination of parts and spend a lot of time tuning.

plus building an lsvtec or even building a b18b is useless with its stock gearing. you would want at least a lower fd, b16 tranny, b18c2 or b18c7 tranny. im just weighing up the cost for u man because i was in the same position as you.

might as well just get a b18c7 conversion for 5-6k which will be the most reliable and go from there. If you did that thats your 30kw advantage in one go.


but if you want to be different do it. i would like to see someone stick with the old b18b and build the shit out of it! no one has really done it properly in australia to date that i can think of.....

Yeah I know there is alot going against me.

[hotdc2]

the fact that you're trying to shut down everyone's suggestions is the biggest thing you.ve got going against you right now..

[joe.teg]

its not worth doing that much work to a gsi... sell it and get a vtir

[TegzGsi]

the fact that you're trying to shut down everyone's suggestions is the biggest thing you.ve got going against you right now..

It is coming across that way but I really do agree with most of them so I don't think it's too bad.

[TegzGsi]

its not worth doing that much work to a gsi... sell it and get a vtir

Hahah yeah well I would have bought one if I could have found one at the time I looked really hard for one in brisbane but most had 200,000 plus kms on them and been really thrashed..

Im thinking of just saving up the extra money and buying a B18c7 for it and just make the engine bay look as stock as possible like I think it was Dc2 suggested..

[hotdc2]

i seriously don't think you will have any problems with a b18c swap
you should be fine.

[joe.teg]

no you wont... all your doing is replacing a non vtec motor with a vtec motor... you want power... save and get a k20 and you still wont have any problems with the copas...

Note to self: Next car = Boosted K20 EG hatch

[TegzGsi]

i seriously don't think you will have any problems with a b18c swap
you should be fine.

Yeah I don't think so either compared to changing a whole heap of shit or just swapping an engine making it more reliable aswell but I will need to save abit if I want the B18C7...

[TegzGsi]

no you wont... all your doing is replacing a non vtec motor with a vtec motor... you want power... save and get a k20 and you still wont have any problems with the copas...

Note to self: Next car = Boosted K20 EG hatch

Lol make up your minds what do you guys reccomend K20 or B18c7

[GSi_PSi]

trust me sydney cops are stupid as. they thought my injen cold air intake was intercooler piping. i knoe of 3 of my mates running b16a conversion, b20vtec conversion, k20 conversion all of them p platers never been hassled for their motor only defects n the usuall shit.

[hotdc2]

K20 if you have 15g

if not then stick with the b series.

[TegzGsi]

trust me sydney cops are stupid as. they thought my injen cold air intake was intercooler piping. i knoe of 3 of my mates running b16a conversion, b20vtec conversion, k20 conversion all of them p platers never been hassled for their motor only defects n the usuall shit.

I think I will just swap the engine or other wise do the Ls/Vtec.

[joe.teg]

save some moneys and get k20, more torque and responds better to mods that the b18 imo

[Tegzieboi_BAR]

With the mods u listed in the 1st post i wouldnt b expecting anything over 90kW atw even if tuned properly.

With my near bone-stock gsi i managed a WHOPPING 73kW... since adding an exhaust ive definitely noticed a pretty severe increase in power but still wouldnt b more than 5-10kw.

Afetr over a year of researching n chasin parts (and saving) im about 2 do a B18C-R swap which is probably the best option for a dc4... Altho the motor is pretty pricey u'll save urself on not havin 2 chase plenty of other parts ud need if u were doin a B20/K20/H22.

All u really need is engine, ecu, g-box, clutch/fly, n pretty much everythin else is re-usable from ur gsi (although its prolly best to chase up some parts from an ITR as they will b tougher n more reliable).

Imo... u'll spend more money tryin 2 get 100kW out of ur gsi then ud spend on doin a conv which should get u easy 110+ kW.

[TegzGsi]

With the mods u listed in the 1st post i wouldnt b expecting anything over 90kW atw even if tuned properly.

With my near bone-stock gsi i managed a WHOPPING 73kW... since adding an exhaust ive definitely noticed a pretty severe increase in power but still wouldnt b more than 5-10kw.

Afetr over a year of researching n chasin parts (and saving) im about 2 do a B18C-R swap which is probably the best option for a dc4... Altho the motor is pretty pricey u'll save urself on not havin 2 chase plenty of other parts ud need if u were doin a B20/K20/H22.

All u really need is engine, ecu, g-box, clutch/fly, n pretty much everythin else is re-usable from ur gsi (although its prolly best to chase up some parts from an ITR as they will b tougher n more reliable).

Imo... u'll spend more money tryin 2 get 100kW out of ur gsi then ud spend on doin a conv which should get u easy 110+ kW.

Uhm yeah I allready know this many people have said this and uhm yeh it is easy possible to get a Gsi to 100kw for 6 grand... but it would be better to just have a B18c-R in there instead.

[GSi_PSi]

chuck in something with more displacement, b20 vtec swaps arent as pricey as you think. If you want to go quicker in a honda dont go chasing kw gains as they mean jack shit and honda just lack big numbers unless your talking turbo, taking your car to the 1/4 or tracks is where the shit happens. If you want noticeble gains Swap your gearbox with a shorter ratio one, get a lighter flywheel (this mod you will notice your revs become very free, very noticeble) heavy duty clutch, coilovers or springs/with proper shocks.

[TegzGsi]

chuck in something with more displacement, b20 vtec swaps arent as pricey as you think. If you want to go quicker in a honda dont go chasing kw gains as they mean jack shit and honda just lack big numbers unless your talking turbo, taking your car to the 1/4 or tracks is where the shit happens. If you want noticeble gains Swap your gearbox with a shorter ratio one, get a lighter flywheel (this mod you will notice your revs become very free, very noticeble) heavy duty clutch, coilovers or springs/with proper shocks.


The Gsi gear box isn't actually that bad and it's not that often when you race that you end up in 5th gear which is the only gear with a real difference...
But yeah fly wheel and clutch make it abit of a btch to drive.

[GSi_PSi]

lol do u knoe from experience?. There is a world of difference in accelleration with a gsi box compared to a b16a/ITR box. Actually flywheel and clutch you will learn to appreciate it when after you step into a car with a heavy flywheel and softclutch.

[TegzGsi]

lol do u knoe from experience?. There is a world of difference in accelleration with a gsi box compared to a b16a/ITR box. Actually flywheel and clutch you will learn to appreciate it when after you step into a car with a heavy flywheel and softclutch.

I have only seen the specs of the B18c Gear box and it isn't that much differen't from the b18b although the ITR is alot better yes.

Im not sure what you said about the flywheel/clutch do you mean you like lightweigt fly wheel and a heavy duty clutch more than a normal setup for drive comfort?( I don't mean about whats better for racing just drive comfort)

[dudeling7]

there is a huge difference between the gsi box compared to vtir box and then even more to a type r box.

changing the FD of the car has a massive impact on acceleration.

when in a gsi redlining and changing gears 1 to 2 you will drop around to 4 maybe 4.5k rpm and it just bogs, if you put a vtir gearbox on a b18b i guarantee you will be much quicker than a stock gsi. good noticeable mod to do.

lightened flywheel is also a must, its just a great mod, would hate to put my stock flywheel back into my car and the sacrifice you make for ease of driving is nothing in comparison to the gains you experience.

[hotdc2]

I don't know why you guys bother, this guy thinks he knows best anyway. Let him talk, when we see him throw his money into a shiit build then we can have the final laugh.

[dudeling7]

lol....i think true....i think the OP needs to do a lot of research on everything.

start reading man, look up what people have done in the states, the honda scene there is leaps ahead and people have tried everything, you will get answers there.

[TegzGsi]

lol....i think true....i think the OP needs to do a lot of research on everything.

start reading man, look up what people have done in the states, the honda scene there is leaps ahead and people have tried everything, you will get answers there.

Gsi:
1st gear Ratio 3.25
2nd gear Ratio 2.052
3rd gear Ratio 1.416
4th gear Ratio 1.103
5th gear Ratio 0.87
Final Drive Ratio 4.133

Vti-r
1st gear Ratio 3.23
2nd gear Ratio 1.9
3rd gear Ratio 1.36
4th gear Ratio 1.034
5th gear Ratio 0.787
Final Drive Ratio 4.4

The actuall ratios don't look all that different mainly the final drive isn't it?
And honestly these forums are only here to talk about things if you guys don't feel like it then don't.

[TegzGsi]

I don't know why you guys bother, this guy thinks he knows best anyway. Let him talk, when we see him throw his money into a shiit build then we can have the final laugh.

I wans't even arguing that the gear box is differen't or not I only said but it isn't all that different which you can see on the actual ratios although people still say thats a big ammount which I didn't know.

Plus really whats it to you man there's no need for you to come on here saying im going to make a shit build and all that, pretty much all I'm doing here is learning not harrasing any one and yet you come on here with comments like that.

[string]

Final drive makes the difference. The 1-2 drop sucks with non b16a/b18cr gearing but only if you are drag racing.

Drive a DA9 LS then drive a DC4 GSi - it's night and day; the only difference is the final drive.

When ultimately modified, you're spending so much money it doesn't really matter what engine you start with as long as it has a VTEC head. If you are looking to match the stock power of a B18C2/7 then the best, long-run-cheapest, most reliable and simplest option is to simply swap that motor in and enjoy it stock.

[TegzGsi]

Final drive makes the difference. The 1-2 drop sucks with non b16a/b18cr gearing but only if you are drag racing.

Drive a DA9 LS then drive a DC4 GSi - it's night and day; the only difference is the final drive.

When ultimately modified, you're spending so much money it doesn't really matter what engine you start with as long as it has a VTEC head. If you are looking to match the stock power of a B18C2/7 then the best, long-run-cheapest, most reliable and simplest option is to simply swap that motor in and enjoy it stock.

Thanks.

[sw1fty]

www.honda-tech.com

have fun

[TegzGsi]

www.honda-tech.com

have fun

Whats this for?

[tinkerbell]

Whats this for?

for the win

[Jon_51]

lol, I must've had a slow day at work to have read this entire thread. and now i'm going to put forth my opinion

you want a fast car, you've already got a nice one, it is manual right?
Just chill out for a bit.
A GSI is not going to be a fast car, unless you have a lot more dollars then sense.

do yourself a favour, get some koni yellows, springs, camber kits and call it a day, lurk long enough you'll probably find an old jdm itr header, change your filter and remove your intake resonator.

i've got a da9 with a panel air filter (zOMGs) and zeal coilovers, it never wins anything in a straight line, but cuts a 15second quarter, corners comparatively well, doesn't break down (often) and it's 16 years old. I still find it enjoyable to drive and don't take shit from anyone about having a hairdressers car.

Getting the suspension right has been enough of a hobby to keep me entertained. If I ever have the time I'll be interested to see what I can get around QR in.

[TegzGsi]

lol, I must've had a slow day at work to have read this entire thread. and now i'm going to put forth my opinion

you want a fast car, you've already got a nice one, it is manual right?
Just chill out for a bit.
A GSI is not going to be a fast car, unless you have a lot more dollars then sense.

do yourself a favour, get some koni yellows, springs, camber kits and call it a day, lurk long enough you'll probably find an old jdm itr header, change your filter and remove your intake resonator.

i've got a da9 with a panel air filter (zOMGs) and zeal coilovers, it never wins anything in a straight line, but cuts a 15second quarter, corners comparatively well, doesn't break down (often) and it's 16 years old. I still find it enjoyable to drive and don't take shit from anyone about having a hairdressers car.

Getting the suspension right has been enough of a hobby to keep me entertained. If I ever have the time I'll be interested to see what I can get around QR in.

Yeah I guess I just like to work on the car and pretty much made this thread to hear opinions and learn...
Thanks for your advice though I will be looking into some suspension some time.