Frankenstein B18b1

[TegzGsi]

Okay so I have a Integra Gsi year 2000.
B18b1 Engine is in great condition.

I have been thinking of doing a few things to the engine but was told that I'd get a much bigger gain in power from just changing the engine head to a b18c
or a b16a. I would like to know if any one (here) has actually done this and if you guys think it is worth it. Also if I change the engine head I will be changing the pistons to to b16a or b18c5 pistons.

Will also change the valve springs due to higher revs.

I also know I will most likely have to change the water pump and oil pump for incase.

Will change ECU aswell to one that suits better.

Comments will be appreciated thanks.

[geeang]

I think it would be much easier and cheaper to just do a complete swap with a B18C2 or B18C7.

[TegzGsi]

I think it would be much easier and cheaper to just do a complete swap with a B18C2 or B18C7.

The whole point of a Frankenstein is so that you get abit of both world the Torque of the non Vtec engine at low end and the top end of a Vtec.

But yes you do have a point it's alot of work for the little bit of power and torque gained in the procedure.

[GSi_PSi]

do ls.vtec b18c2 isnt that great and b18c7 is overpriced, just upgrade your gearbox to one with a with better gears as gsi box is way to long. you should have a pretty good package.
get arp rodbolts, vtec oilpump and waterpump+timingbelt, b16/18 head, ge vtec conversion kit. and maybe a tuneable computer.+ lil extra stuff your good to go

[dsp26]

also valve springs won't be neccesary as the B16/B18c head can rev safely to 8200rpm unless you get cams.

plus unless you change your rod bolts, it isn't safe for you to rev past your current rev limit anyway.

[TegzGsi]

The way things are going and more suggestions of even changing the gear box if I was to go through with this I would just do the whole job and not skip any corners.

[TegzGsi]

do ls.vtec b18c2 isnt that great and b18c7 is overpriced, just upgrade your gearbox to one with a with better gears as gsi box is way to long. you should have a pretty good package.
get arp rodbolts, vtec oilpump and waterpump+timingbelt, b16/18 head, ge vtec conversion kit. and maybe a tuneable computer.+ lil extra stuff your good to go

Sounds good on paper but with all these items being added it would cost so much in the end of the day I could sell my car and buy a type R lol.

[ZeForce]

The way things are going and more suggestions of even changing the gear box if I was to go through with this I would just do the whole job and not skip any corners.

You dont need to change your entire gearbox, just get a shorter final drive

[GSi_PSi]

Sounds good on paper but with all these items being added it would cost so much in the end of the day I could sell my car and buy a type R lol.

do some research on prices. if you knoe where to go , shouldnt end up costing a lot

[TegzGsi]

do some research on prices. if you knoe where to go , shouldnt end up costing a lot

Alrite so it's:
Engine head b18c* or b16a*
Better gear box
Vtec pistons
Ecu
water pump
oil pump
Valve springs maybe..
Bolts
GE Vtec conversion kit
Timing belt ect all the little bits
hmm all I can think of right now.. sound slike quite abit
Plus tune and so on..

[GSi_PSi]

no need for vtec pistons unless you wanna run highercomp but thats about it. if your running a vtir b18c head your comp will bump to 10:1 i think? with gsi pistons..

[TegzGsi]

no need for vtec pistons unless you wanna run highercomp but thats about it. if your running a vtir b18c head your comp will bump to 10:1 i think? with gsi pistons..

Thanks mate.
Where I got the idea of changing them is from another guy who has done this change to his engine and he says it will create more torque and well they fit aswell so I guess when your busy doing all these changes it may be worth it.

[string]

The primary reason a VTi-R will *feel* faster than a GSi is the final drive. My sister just bought a GSi and with the 4.266 final it is sloooow. Same engine in my DA9 (albeit ~100kg lighter body) with 4.4 FD and it's night and day. The Type-R is another jump up in final drive for more wheel torque at all speeds (thanks to the proportionally higher redline) aswell as majorly closening the individual gear ratios, avoiding the huge 1-2 drop that the GSi and VTi-R have.

LS/VTEC is not cheap if you are aiming to rival a B18C. A B16A head on the stock B18A block will gain torque everywhere (I can't cite evidence but I'm sure I've seen dyno graphs demonstrating this), so if you only rev to ~7200 you'll get quite decent gains, especially past 5500rpm (since torque will no longer drop off) and you won't have to outlay too much since you can keep the bottom end completely OEM.

[GSi_PSi]

on an ls/vtec you will need to change rod bolts if you want to rev past 6800rpm.

[string]

I find that hard to believe considering the OBD1 B18A/B has a STOCK rev-limit of 7200rpm.

[TegzGsi]

on an ls/vtec you will need to change rod bolts if you want to rev past 6800rpm.

I duno any more theres so many things to do that it will be a hard build to make it reliable and really worth it.

[string]

For the power, nothing will rival the reliability of a stock B18C5. You'll pay for it, but it'll give you years of trouble free motoring. Could be worth it if you think you'll stick with the car for a long time. Shame that all the motors are getting on though...

[GSi_PSi]

I find that hard to believe considering the OBD1 B18A/B has a STOCK rev-limit of 7200rpm.

sure you can push it to there but all your doing is wasting time. as it doesnt make power past that.
heres an old video of my old engine which proves how it dies after 6.8rpm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rpOxHNZ6-rc

[TegzGsi]

sure you can push it to there but all your doing is wasting time. as it doesnt make power past that.
heres an old video of my old engine which proves how it dies after 6.8rpm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rpOxHNZ6-rc

Any mods on that ?

[GSi_PSi]

yeah injen cai, jun exhaust, toda 4-2-1 headers. Went pretty good after those upgrades gave few vtirs run for their money except for one of my mates which was a freak vtir that went hard and was bone stock. Was even keepin up with ITR's.

[TegzGsi]

yeah injen cai, jun exhaust, toda 4-2-1 headers. Went pretty good after those upgrades gave few vtirs run for their money except for one of my mates which was a freak vtir that went hard and was bone stock. Was even keepin up with ITR's.

Lol nice
Well if it could keep up with a Vti-R then those few mods were worth it I would say.

[Fo55il]

i think if u gavea budget. would be easy for some good advice

[d15z1SUX]

www.crower.com ? had a look there yet?

[TegzGsi]

www.crower.com ? had a look there yet?

Yeh thanks..
I want to get the 403's due to the car still being nice to drive around on the street as a DD.
And some P3 civic pistons.
valve springs and retainers.
allready have a Cold air intake system .
will do the exhaust too and that all will cost me like harly any money.. and I will get some big gains I have seen a few Gsi's get some insane Hp gains.

Oh yes and mayb a nice Ecu or atleast a tune.

[string]

sure you can push it to there but all your doing is wasting time. as it doesnt make power past that.
heres an old video of my old engine which proves how it dies after 6.8rpm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rpOxHNZ6-rc

None of this changes the fact that from that factory, Honda has deemed the engine capable of turning at 7200rpm. Bolt a B16A head on a stock bottom end and your engine will be very happy to rev up that high.

[GSi_PSi]

None of this changes the fact that from that factory, Honda has deemed the engine capable of turning at 7200rpm. Bolt a B16A head on a stock bottom end and your engine will be very happy to rev up that high.

Ofcourse with a vtec head the engine will make power all the way to 8000rpm. Not on a stock bottom end because the rod bolts on B18a/b engine are very weak due to honda using the 1.2-1.6 litre Rod bolts from the single cam motors. Therefore you will need to change to arp bolts and if possible shotpeen the rods for piece of mind.

[string]

Revving to the 7200rpm stock limit with a VTEC head means you need nothing but head studs, head gasket, oil lines, and the actual head (and intake manifold). I doubt there's a mod you can do for more power and less money.

Unless you plan on revving above 7700rpm you can stick with the stock water pump - which is approximately the speed at which the impellor is spinning at the same rate as a B18C7 at 8900rpm. As you say, throw in a set of rod bolts and you're still under $1000 and you'll be laughing all day long at modified non-vtecs.

Edit: Forgot tuning, but you need it no matter what route you take.

[TegzGsi]

Revving to the 7200rpm stock limit with a VTEC head means you need nothing but head studs, head gasket, oil lines, and the actual head (and intake manifold). I doubt there's a mod you can do for more power and less money.

Unless you plan on revving above 7700rpm you can stick with the stock water pump - which is approximately the speed at which the impellor is spinning at the same rate as a B18C7 at 8900rpm. As you say, throw in a set of rod bolts and you're still under $1000 and you'll be laughing all day long at modified non-vtecs.

Edit: Forgot tuning, but you need it no matter what route you take.

If I was changing to Ls/Vtec I would like to go to 8000 rpm other wise there isn't much play with the vtec.

[TegzGsi]

Is it possible to remove the pistons without removing the block? (remove the sump and unbolt them and push them out through the top??)