Is it ok for my strut brace to push against...

[Chriskoss]

Hey dudes, just finally installed my strut brace after much confusion..

It was a real tight fit in the middle, and it is pretty much putting pressure on the engine component that due to my n00bness I do not know what its called..

Ive circled where it is hitting against and can people plz tell me if it is fine to be like that.. as there is no other way to install the brace

Fankyou!

[joyride]

what brace did you put on? OEM or aftermarket?
this may sound like a silly question but did you put it on back to front?

[Chriskoss]

Nah man, was only 1 way to fit it... ( I think)

Its aftermarket off ebay..

it fits alright just sorta pushes slightly on that little part which is next to the throttle body, am just worried it will cause damage in the long run

[geeang]

It looks like it should be fine, but it would be better if it didn't touch anything at all.

[Chriskoss]

Lookin at other pics it should be going under that little engine peice.. i might try 2 fit it under if I can its a bitch of a job tho

[vtec_jet]

thats a typical thing to happen when you fit ebay strut braces.

Its obviously a U.S brand, if the car was left hand drive it wouldnt have that scrubbing.

I had the same issue on my accord, i just had the strut brace customized to avoid rubbing.

[CRXer]

rattle rattle rattle rattle bbbbbrrrrrrrrMMMMMMMMMMMM CLUNK bbbbrrrrrrrrMMMMMMMMMMMMM CLUNK bbbbrrrrrrrrrMMMMMMMMMMMMM CLUNK............

[Chriskoss]

rattle rattle rattle rattle bbbbbrrrrrrrrMMMMMMMMMMMM CLUNK bbbbrrrrrrrrMMMMMMMMMMMMM CLUNK bbbbrrrrrrrrrMMMMMMMMMMMMM CLUNK............

Is that supposed to be a re-enactment of your birth, dude? lol


(what did you mean by this)

[aaronng]

Is that supposed to be a re-enactment of your birth, dude? lol


(what did you mean by this)

Everytime you accelerate and lift off the throttle, the strut brace is going to hit that piece.

[Chriskoss]

i took it for a drive and didnt seem to do anything.. its not interfering with the accelerator cable.. its just hittin the end of the metal thing.. so u think its ok then aaron?

[OMG.JAI xD]

Easy fix dude.
Put a couple of penny washers on the bottom of your strut brace mounting points.
Lift the brace a few mm's.
Cause by your picture it doesnt seem that far from clearing it.

[RtN]

he means the engine will move forward when you accelerate and the thing will hit it I think.

[DvSnGuYeN]

really looks like it's upside imo... tower strut sorta curves up... this one looks like it's downwards...

you got a pic of it from a little further back dude?

[aaronng]

i took it for a drive and didnt seem to do anything.. its not interfering with the accelerator cable.. its just hittin the end of the metal thing.. so u think its ok then aaron?

Hitting that metal thing is bad. Eventually the metal thing will break off.

[joyride]

Easy fix dude.
Put a couple of penny washers on the bottom of your strut brace mounting points.
Lift the brace a few mm's.
Cause by your picture it doesnt seem that far from clearing it.
it could work. be sure to use high tensile steel nuts and bolts.


really looks like it's upside imo... tower strut sorta curves up... this one looks like it's downwards...
you got a pic of it from a little further back dude?
it could be upside, but a photo of your engine bay is the best way for us to see the problem.


thats a typical thing to happen when you fit ebay strut braces.
Its obviously a U.S brand, if the car was left hand drive it wouldnt have that scrubbing.
he hasnt told us if the ebay brace is US made, but its more than likely. to the thread starter, was it purchased from USA?

[JasonGilholme]

that metal thing is a diaphram of some sort which controls your intake of fuel/air etc

If it breaks then you're ****ed. It may not hit when your engine is still, but you'll be surprised how much it will move when changing gears etc, especially with an older set of engine mounts.

Remove that piece of junk from your car and get a bar that fits properly. :thumbsup:

[Chriskoss]

Joyride, it was bought off ebay I think from hong kong or whatever...

Its sitting under that little diaphram peice

I know it is a POS but I cant afford a proper one yet they are like 500 or something lol.. Im not sure using washers will be safe though? puts more pressure on the bolts.

Im using just the original bolts from the car

Ill take a pic now of the whole engine bay

[dudeling7]

yeh jason is right, when your engine torques it will definitely touch and wear away at it. i had a cheap intake back in the day and when the engine was idling it wasn;t touching anything but when it would torque it rubbed ever so lightly against something, eventually it wore a hole in the side of the intake tube. so dont risk it man it will touch and wear away

[SiReal]

if its a cheap easy piece u can buy again, just get a dremel and ground off the infringing bits (off the strut).

im sure a few mm's of metal wont make THAT much different to the greater strut bar.

Engine components > eGay component

p.s. try the washers first.

[JasonGilholme]

A good one is not 500 bucks.

Ultra Racing Strut bars. I paid about 350 ALL UP! and got a front 2 Point and rear 2 Point. They're carbing copies. much better then ebay POS's.

[JasonGilholme]

here ya go..

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/jasongilholme/16LTR/IMG_6875.jpg

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/jasongilholme/16LTR/IMG_6877.jpg

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/jasongilholme/16LTR/IMG_6878.jpg

[/PLUG] haha

[SiReal]

woah cam cover is hot Jase!!!

Still packing on that KFC???

[JasonGilholme]

lol nah man, that time with you was one of my last. I was seriously eating years off my life!!! haha.

Although i do smell it sometimes, and the urges start to come back! hehe

[SiReal]

haha awesome. well after looking at the ultra racing bars, they seem to fit quite well. i wouldnt mind a 3 pt.

anyway, stay well my friend.

[Chriskoss]

Lol thanks for the info guys..

It already has worn away at the bar.. little dent where it is hitting..

I do realise it has moved under that little peice now almost pushing up.. so yeh I took the bar off

Was only 42 bucks from egay.. we all make mistake and have to learn from somewhere lol..

I might try the washers but not sure how safe it is cuz it elevates the bolts putting more pressure.. last thing I want are for the bolts to snap off while driving

Do they make ultra racing struts for da9's.. or are they universal? the one i got from epay it says fits crx civic integra etc

p.s i attached a pic when it was on

[joyride]

hey mate, you can go to bunnings and get longer bolts (high tensile steel - these are strong as) to accomodate for the additional washers. i wouldnt put more than 4 washers on each side but if you've taken it off you've fixed the problem.

[JasonGilholme]

I'm pretty sure you can get an ultra racing bar for a DA9. Just ask JDMYard if the EG/DC one will fit the DA.

and AFAIK the bar attaches to the strut top and the threaded bolt is apart of the shock. so i doubt you can get longer bolts to fix the problem if you use washers.

i doubt there would be extra force on those bolts anyway, the ebay bar probably flexes anyway so there would be no difference from when you didn't have one.

[DvSnGuYeN]

dude, it's upside down... try and flip it around... should still be able to close the bonnet...

[CRXer]

Is that supposed to be a re-enactment of your birth, dude? lol


(what did you mean by this)

lol....close,but no cigar
its the sound of u tryin to poke your boyfriend in the dark

post up another closeup pic of the dashpot now that its sitting on top of the bar

[Chriskoss]

I tried flipping it around.. its the same shit anyways.. It only hits by a mm or 2 but not going to file it down defeats the purpose of a steady bar.. ill enquire about an ultra racing bar then!

crxer my boyfriend didnt like what u just said.. we always do it with the lights on anyways

p.s i cant get it to sit ontop of that engine part.. the ends wont reach.. so only sits under if I squeeze it under which then puts pressure on it in engine moved etc so I canned it

dvsnugyen - It closes and fits fine when it was around the other way.. i flipped it round and still was in the same position its identicle each side.. r u saying it should be arching inwards like a '' l____l'' shape

[Chriskoss]

can any1 confirm if the eg civic front strut bars from ultra racing will fit a da9? this will help other fellow da9 owners also to steer clear of shitty ebay bars and get a good 1

[JohnL]

It already has worn away at the bar.. little dent where it is hitting..

Even if you manage to make it clear completely, you'll probably need more than a couple of mm clearance. There will be considerable force behind an engine moving in it's mounts, and they can move quite a lot (especially with soft stock mounts).

From appearances it's probably only the FITV valve, all it does it raise the cold idle speed, ditch it!


so yeh I took the bar off

Tower braces are fairly useless unless they are very rigid. Ebay ones that I've seen are very unrigid...


I might try the washers but not sure how safe it is cuz it elevates the bolts putting more pressure.. last thing I want are for the bolts to snap off while driving


It won't because the floppy Ebay brace just won't be rigid enough to load up the attachment points on the top of the towers, which are quite robust in any case. Note that it's not just the bracing tube itself that is often not rigid enough, the attachment brackets are often the weakest link in the stiffness chain.

Those 'Carbing' clone braces look to be very much better than most with regard to stiffness in the brackets, but even so that front brace would be better if the tube were straight rather than bent (alas not always possible), and unfortunately the tube has a flattened section that is weakening it in exactly the wrong plane re the tube bends (much better if it were a large OD round section tube rather than oval, or maybe a solid bar rather than a tube).

The loads passed through a brace from one tower top to the other are significantly great (though the unbraced movement is not that large), and any bend deducts substantially from compressive and tensile stiffness of a tube, so to be appropriately stiff a tube with any bends should ideally be quite a large OD with a thick wall.

[JasonGilholme]

Agree with you there JohnL. It would be better with a circular profile rather then what it actually has. I'm not sure on the wall thickness of the pipe used but it does seem to be pretty rigid. The end plating is quite good too. Welds could be better but hey, its a cheap knock off. I've seen much worse things for the same price though.

The ultra racing bar on mine, leaves minimum amount of clearance above the manifold on a b series motor. if it was any closer i'd be worried (i have solid hasport mounts though). It may be too close for stock mounts still.

These are the only strut braces i've had that i've actually been able to feel a difference from. Particularly the rear one. its pretty darn big.

[RtN]

yeh.. to be safe i'm also running the stock vti-r one at the same time.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh84/RtN89/28052009816.jpg

so yeh despite the flattened corners of the UR bar I think this should be suffice, well it feels like it anyway.

[Chriskoss]

The boys at shift said they got only a 'Cusco' front strut brace for my da9.. is the rep for these bars any good?

p.s phat teg RtN

[RtN]

haha well i dunno thought I was on topic with the other fellows. sorry for hijack.

[SHOGUNOVDDRK]

The boys at shift said they got only a 'Cusco' front strut brace for my da9.. is the rep for these bars any good?

p.s phat teg RtN

Cusco is a good product, I'd get one for my AH but can't justify the $

If you've got the cash get a Cusco :thumbsup:

[Chriskoss]

cuco is like only 60 more than the ultra racing.. 270 is a lot for a little improvement.. i might try getting a cold air intake kit first.. but its soo hard to find any proper intake kits for a da9 here in aus.. its like the forgotten honda model :(

[aaronng]

Cusco is typically made of aluminium and not as rigid than the Ultra Racing. I know someone with a curved cusco strut bar. LOL

[Chriskoss]

whats the U.R one made out of

[JasonGilholme]

yeh.. to be safe i'm also running the stock vti-r one at the same time.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh84/RtN89/28052009816.jpg

so yeh despite the flattened corners of the UR bar I think this should be suffice, well it feels like it anyway.

its a waist running the OEM bar at the same time man. The UR bar will do all the bracing before any load is even transfered into the flimsy OEM bar.

Its just taking up space and adding weight.

[aaronng]

whats the U.R one made out of

I suspect mild steel under that paint. That's why it is cheap.

[JasonGilholme]

I suspect mild steel under that paint. That's why it is cheap.

x2 i'd guess the same.

[JohnL]

its a waist running the OEM bar at the same time man. The UR bar will do all the bracing before any load is even transfered into the flimsy OEM bar.

Its just taking up space and adding weight.

Personally I'd run both, the stiffness from each brace is cumulative, and there can never be too much rigidity in a chassis.

[JohnL]

I suspect mild steel under that paint. That's why it is cheap.

There's nothing wrong with it being mild steel, and I'd be amazed if any similar products were made from a 'higher' grade, i.e. my bet is that (other than the aluminium ones) they'll all be mild steel, which is a very suitable material in this application.

Nothing will be gained from using a higher grade (or heat treated) steel because all steels (other than some rare exotic alloys) are just as stiff as each other, to within a minute and utterly insignificant difference.

The 'modulus of elasticity' is what defines stiffness, and it's very similar in just about all steels in just about all states of heat treatment. The 'elastic limit' is what defines the 'yield point' of a material (how much it can be flexed before it becomes permanently bent or breaks), and this is what differs substantially between different steels in different states of heat treatment (along with hardness).

Only if the tower brace were subjected to significant flexure would a higher grade be useful because it could be deflected more before it permanently deformed and possibly be more fatigue resistant, but a tower brace that flexes isn't a good tower brace...

[RtN]

yeh.. what johnL said abt the oem strut.. and also the corners of the UR bar are like bent flat making it weaker and yes they are cumulative so the load is spread evenly.

[Chriskoss]

So you think the U.R bar is better or the Cusco?

[RtN]

U.R coz of no pivot IMO.

[CRXer]

john,u seem to have put a lot of thought into this,but,im finding it difficult to picture where a 2point brace,whether it be front,rear,b/c pillar would be subject to a compressive(flex) load.my understanding is they are designed to tie the points together by tension.
could u describe a situation where this might be the case?

[Chriskoss]

ShiftPerformance has the ultra racing 2 point front strut bar for 200.. I think ill get this then!

[string]

The offending diaphram is a throttle damper to keep the revs up between shifts - nothing to do with cold idle (no coolant hoses) and nothing to do with fuel delivery. I've removed them on all of my B18's and didn't notice a difference.

[redefine]

john,u seem to have put a lot of thought into this,but,im finding it difficult to picture where a 2point brace,whether it be front,rear,b/c pillar would be subject to a compressive(flex) load.my understanding is they are designed to tie the points together by tension.
could u describe a situation where this might be the case?

when both the suspension pillars are compressed because of a dip or something there is a compressive force toward the middle of the car on either side at those points.

depending on the bank of a corner, it may happen there too

[JohnL]

The offending diaphram is a throttle damper to keep the revs up between shifts

Off topic but,

With some Honda engines (the Accord f22A9 being one example) the IACV is used for a similar purpose (I would suggest mis-used...). The ECU keeps the IACV open momentarily after the throttle plate has been closed (as when shifting gear), which keeps the rpm momentarily high then causes the rpm to drop more slowly than it otherwise would (should...). I think this is associated with emisions control.

This slows the speed with which smooth upshifts can be made and generally stuffs up the driveabilty. I've blanked off my IACV so that no air can flow through it into the plenum, which makes for a huge improvement, except that the AC, lights etc now causes the idle speed to drop somewhat...


- nothing to do with cold idle (no coolant hoses) and nothing to do with fuel delivery. I've removed them on all of my B18's and didn't notice a difference.

I'm not familiar with this particular engine, just that it looked like an FITV from the photo. My Accord's FITV works perfectly even though I've blocked the lines that route coolant to it (and the throttle body). Seems like ambient engine bay temp and heat soak from the plenum casting is enough heat to make it work...

[JohnL]

when both the suspension pillars are compressed because of a dip or something there is a compressive force toward the middle of the car on either side at those points.

depending on the bank of a corner, it may happen there too

Yes, but any time a significant bump loading is passed into the tower top the force will tend to push the tower top inward.

Some people seem to think that as corning forces are leveraged into the suspension linkages from the contact patch, that at the (more heavily loaded) outside suspension the lower 'wishbone' will be in compression and the upper wishbone will be in tension, and thus that the tower top on that side will be pulled outward by the upper wishbone, so a tower brace would have a tensile force applied to it.

This is actually correct, but due to the geometry of the wishbones relative to the contact patch (with the upper wishbone being so high above the lower wishbone), this outward lateral force seen at the tower top is relatively weak and of little consequence compared to the bump loadings caused by chassis roll.

By far the greatest lateral force acting upon the wishbones is acting in compressionn on the lower outside wishbone, with a relatively minor tensile force acting on the upper outside wishbone. This is why the upper ball joint can be so small compared to the much larger lower ball joint.

[redefine]

the only way i can see the top controll arm being in tension is under significant cornering, where the outside wheel will have a torque forcing the upper side of the wheel out. i cant see it happening under a general compressive load on the suspension. is there something i'm missing, like the geometry causing it? or are you talking about during cornering?

i wouldhave thought no matter what, the strut brace would always be under compression when the suspension is compressed as the suspension would put a force up at an angle through the top of the tower.

[CRXer]

With some Honda engines (the Accord f22A9 being one example) the IACV is used for a similar purpose (I would suggest mis-used...). The ECU keeps the IACV open momentarily after the throttle plate has been closed (as when shifting gear), which keeps the rpm momentarily high then causes the rpm to drop more slowly than it otherwise would (should...). I think this is associated with emisions control.



i thought its all IACV now? & dashpots got the flick when ecu's got smarter,ah...who knows...

like string said u can remove the dashpot,but u will get the emissions effect(circumstantial overrun of fuel between gears(or other throttle slam shut situations)) & also chance of engine stall at low rpms,throttle slam shut.

[JohnL]

the only way i can see the top controll arm being in tension is under significant cornering, where the outside wheel will have a torque forcing the upper side of the wheel out. i cant see it happening under a general compressive load on the suspension. is there something i'm missing, like the geometry causing it? or are you talking about during cornering?

Yes I agree. All I'm saying is that there must be multiple forces that work in different ways to place a tower brace in both tension and in compression. Any momentary tensile force will deduct from any momentary compression the brace may be in, and vice versa.

There is some opinion floating around on the net (can't recall where I saw this) that the predominant load on a tower brace is tensile due to the outward force acting upon the upper wishbone (or the top of a Mac Strut) when cornering, but IMO this ignores the affects of vertical loadings deflecting the tower top laterally inward.


i wouldhave thought no matter what, the strut brace would always be under compression when the suspension is compressed as the suspension would put a force up at an angle through the top of the tower.

I would expect (though have no data to prove) that compressive loads in tower braces are predominant, with the greatest loads occuring when a wheel hits a bump etc., largely because in this circumstance it's probably a compressive load only.

Loads on a tower brace in roll are likely to be + compressive - tensile = a generally lessened compressive load. However I suspect the load peaks might be 'spiky', i.e. in roll (ignoring loads caused by bumps) there may well be brief moments where the compressive load is fairly high, and moments when the load becomes slightly tensile... maybe.

It occurs to me that it would be relatively easy to check the direction of these tower forces by disconnecting one end of a tower brace and setting up some sort of marking system, e.g. a pencil taped to the bar and rubbing on a peice of cardboard taped to the other tower top, or something similar.

[string]

My quick take on the subject:

On either wheel, the UCA and LCA must be forces of opposite sign. For them to be both under compression, or both under tension, the contact patch force must be applied between the two arms, which is impossible since this would mean the LCA mounts the upright below the surface of the road.

During roll, at the front axle, the inside wheel is pulling the nose of the car and the outside wheel is pushing. The outside LCA is therefore under compression and the UCA under tension of a lower magnitude. The inside LCA is under tension and the UCA is under compression in similar ratios to the outside, but at much lower overall magnitude due to smaller contact patch forces thanks to lateral load transfer.

Static negative camber adds an inwards lateral force at both wheels resulting in a static tension in the UCA and thus the strut brace. During roll the effects of lateral load transfer and tyre load sensitivity means you lose more "grip" unloading the inside tyre than you gain from loading the outside tyre. Therefore you are losing more total inwards camber thrust than you are gaining during roll reducing the strut brace tension the more lateral load is transfered. As as aside, from this result it can be seen that [as long as your particular tyre agrees] static camber is always beneficial for lateral force in the direction you want, the more lateral load transfer the better your resultant camber thrust (i.e. FWD cars, which are trying to minimise front load transfer experience these benefits to a much lesser degree than a front stiff RWD).

The only totally compressive force on the strut brace is from the compressed springs levering the upper control arms inwards off the contact patch. Whether or not this counteracts all the other tensile loads would be a complete guess on my behalf and a quick thought experiment can't resolve them like a full analysis could.

In summary, I'd be inclined to agree with someone claiming that a functional strut brace is important. In addition, it should be fairly clear that having strong lower control arm bushings is very important.

[redefine]

There is some opinion floating around on the net (can't recall where I saw this) that the predominant load on a tower brace is tensile due to the outward force acting upon the upper wishbone (or the top of a Mac Strut) when cornering, but IMO this ignores the affects of vertical loadings deflecting the tower top laterally inward.


this is what i was saying, and i agree with you

i understand that. i think i just misread your post. haha my bad :thumbsup:

[Chriskoss]

Physicians please move this discussion to another thread :), and thankyou all kindly for the useful input

[Bludger]

that metal thing is a diaphram of some sort which controls your intake of fuel/air etc

If it breaks then you're ****ed. It may not hit when your engine is still, but you'll be surprised how much it will move when changing gears etc, especially with an older set of engine mounts.

Remove that piece of junk from your car and get a bar that fits properly. :thumbsup:actually, the previous owner removed that thing off my car, still idles and truns fine.

[Chriskoss]

Yeah as said it is just to up the idle speed when engine is cold.. not that vital

[CRXer]

Yeah as said it is just to up the idle speed when engine is cold.. not that vital
the only time it will affect your idle is if it is faulty or bent out of place by something like a.....ah....ummm...............oh yeh... strut brace

[Chriskoss]

uhh ok but if u read like gazillion pages before I already took the strut brace off and got an ultra-racing one. Thanks man!

[Chriskoss]

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd7/chriskoss/Image025.jpg

Happy now guys :) ?

[stevo716]

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd7/chriskoss/Image025.jpg

Happy now guys :) ?

nice thats sexy whered u get that from man, ive been meaning to change mine cuz generic ebay shit dont do shit lol

[trism]

nice thats sexy whered u get that from man, ive been meaning to change mine cuz generic ebay shit dont do shit lol

are you serious?

look at the picture, there is a ****ing URL printed on teh brace

[RtN]

lol... well you cant really buy it from their site i think.. their distributors in aus are jdm yard and project mu I think

[stevo716]

are you serious?

look at the picture, there is a ****ing URL printed on teh brace
yeh u rude fuk thats a malaysian page
geez

[Chriskoss]

Lol its from shift performance man.. havent taken the sticker off yet lol oh well

200 from shift.. cheapest on this site for sure

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd7/chriskoss/Image024.jpg

Moaarr pics

[RtN]

lol leave those stickers on =]

[Chriskoss]

Its ghettooooo

[stevo716]

kool cheers
noticeable difference??

[Chriskoss]

Yea dude. Felt no difference with egay cheap strut bar but heaps of rigidity with the ultra racing strut bar.. looks good and noticable difference.. only dwn side is that is enhances engine vibrations but not by a fully noticeable amount only minor

[stevo716]

lol fair enof i already vibrant crazily cuz of the rebuild anyway, some idle probs but yeh lol

[Chriskoss]

Theres also less steering wheel play cuz when I changed from 14's to 16's the steering wheel would get jerked hard from any bump in the road but doesnt happen as bad with the strut brace

[stevo716]

nice nice, which one did u buy to fit the da, cuz they dont make a specific one for it, did u buy the dc2 one, only prob i think bout that one is that its 3 point mounted, thatd be nice but idk if the middle mount wud bolt up

[hotdc2]

wow.. can you try again please. my head feels like it's going to explode after reading that

[RtN]

LOLOL I think he means.. which strut bar model did he buy.. was it one that was originally made for a dc2? If the 2 point fits... will the 3 point also fit from a DC2 onto a DA? But I don't know if the middle point would line up on the firewall... I think thats what hes trying to say LOL.

[Chriskoss]

Umm it says ek/eg/dc on the bar..Just ask for one to fit da9/civic eg ek and it will fit!
200 from ShiftPerformance for the 2 point which is what I got but if you want 3 point just ask for 3 point

IMO get the 3 point.. more stability then the 2pt.. the 2pt still makes a difference but im sure 3 pt would take it to another level

[stevo716]

LOLOL I think he means.. which strut bar model did he buy.. was it one that was originally made for a dc2? If the 2 point fits... will the 3 point also fit from a DC2 onto a DA? But I don't know if the middle point would line up on the firewall... I think thats what hes trying to say LOL.
yeh thats pretty much it soz i shud read over wat i write lol

[JohnL]

And your last post too please.

Do they still teach English at school...

[stevo716]

And your last post too please.

Do they still teach English at school...



whats wrong with that??
did they teach u how to read??

u bastards are gettin picky now, its a forum ffs, don't need to write all formally

[lil_foy]

whats wrong with that??
did they teach u how to read??

u bastards are gettin picky now, its a forum ffs, don't need to write all formally

You're asking for help, atleast give us a version thats semi understandable.

[stevo716]

look thats fair enof, but i dont see whats not understandable bout what i wrote

[JohnL]

It's understandable, but not without effort. It's hard to tell whether you are mispelling words deliberately (some form of grammarless 'textese', a blight on the Language), can't actually spell, or a combination of the two. I suspect a combination.

At any rate, it makes reading posts written like yours hard work, and some people just won't bother if it involves having to decipher your code...

[dns]

what car was the strut made for? not DA specific im assuming.

[whiteballade]

ebay "performance parts"............................. :S