wynns stop smoke

[shitbox]

old d15b4 twin carby is blowing a fair bit of white smoke, been told its most likely the valve stems.. which would make sense its quite an old car with lots of k's apparently stop smoke swells the seal's and stops oil leaking into the cylinder. i know its not a permanant fix but im not gonna waste money on a rebuild rest of engine is running great just blowing some smoke is all. anyone used this product before?? opinions/ experiences appretiated thanks.

[Chriskoss]

Dont know if it actually works.. I know the 'stop leak' ones dont.. I think its just a waste of time and money

[dc2dc2dc2]

seriulsy dont bother.

just drive it the way it is.

until u either deceide to fix it or sell it.

no point in a bandaid solution.

[JohnL]

It works, but only somewhat, i.e. smoking may lessen but in my long past experience won't stop (despite the name). It works mostly by making the oil much thicker, so less oil leaks past guides / rings etc. It comes out of the bottle like really thick honey.

You'd probably be better off using one of the thicker oils formulated for clapped out old donks...

[Dy_]

yeah all it does it makes the oil alot thicker. after an oil change you'll have to add another bottle of 'stop smoke' in order to get that temp fix again.

no real point unless you're dodgy and want to sell the car without the buyer knowing somethings wrong lol.

[Chriskoss]

Thats most buyers dude.. Bought my integra with the description of''immaculate''... to much surprise 1 day after buying it has a massive oil leak and he goes' oh yeh oops forgot to add that''.. he prob used a bandaid solution.. sigh thats bastards for you

[shitbox]

It works, but only somewhat, i.e. smoking may lessen but in my long past experience won't stop (despite the name). It works mostly by making the oil much thicker, so less oil leaks past guides / rings etc. It comes out of the bottle like really thick honey.

You'd probably be better off using one of the thicker oils formulated for clapped out old donks...

yeah, what u say definantly makes sence. no plans on selling car atm just dont wanna draw unecessary attention with smokey exaust. ive just done an oil change used castrol magnatec 10w-40. dont know what was in there before hand but i assume it was thicker as smoke only began after oil change. if stopsmoke is cheap, i may use it to thicken oil, and next service use different oil what would u recommend?

[JohnL]

yeah, what u say definantly makes sence. no plans on selling car atm just dont wanna draw unecessary attention with smokey exaust. ive just done an oil change used castrol magnatec 10w-40. dont know what was in there before hand but i assume it was thicker as smoke only began after oil change. if stopsmoke is cheap, i may use it to thicken oil, and next service use different oil what would u recommend?

20W50 is easy to find, but there is thicker around. I think it's Penrite who (among others?) make an XW60 (X because I don't know the cold multi grade number). 60 weight would be about the thickest engine oil you can get I'd expect, though I haven't actually looked for anything so viscous recently. Choose a thicker oil (50+) that says something like "for older engines" on the bottle.

The thicker the oil the greater the oil pumping losses (increase in power required to circulate thicker oil through the engine), so in theory there would be some decrease in fuel economy and power. However, it may also help seal leaky piston rings which would improve compression, so could possibly improve economy and power (this assumes that the rings are indeed leaky and current compression is not great, if they are OK then it's fairly irrelevant).

The tighter the piston to bore clearance (like with Hondas as opposed to old V8s etc) the more likely it is that a thick oil will substantially increase oil shearing forces between the piston and bore wall, thus increasing the force required to move the piston up and down, and thus have adverse affects on economy and power.

If the smoking is bad enough then it might be worth giving it a go (since you've just changed the oil). Keep in mind that thick or thickened oil will increase loads on things like oil pump drives, especially at higher rpm. Whatever, whether using a thick oil or thickening your existing oil is only a stop gap to alleviate an irritating / embarrassing symptom of an underlying problem until you can either repair the engine or find a replacement.

Note that the oil pump is driven through the cam belt, so if thick oil causes enough increased load to say strip some teeth from the belt then it could get very ugly. Using thick (or thickened) oil I would be much more wary of using high rpm (especially before the oil is up to operating temp), more so with an engine that specs a much lighter weight oil (like Honda engines with a 10W30 spec).

Years ago I used some extra thick oil in an old Holden Blue motor (to reduce smoking and oil loss, which worked to some degree), and a few weeks later stripped the teeth off the cam drive gear, which is also the oil pump drive. I can't say the thicker oil was the culprit since the drive teeth were worn fairly thin, but it can't have helped...