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View Full Version : Gear Box & Clutch and Vibrations - Few new problems



Lukezen27
06-06-2009, 01:08 PM
Hey Guys

I have a few problems I can't seem to work out..

1. Bad Vibrations when I turn left and 40km and over \
I've replaced all brake pads as that's what it feels like when there gone..

Not luck..

2. When I engage the clutch up or down gears its squeals and its only just started about a week ago... plus sometimes its hard to get in to first and second but only when the cars turned on, once off its all smooth again.

Maybe I need better box fluids than the standard Honda OEM?

There's on M-factory LSD in there too if that makes a difference.

Apart for the sound the clutch engages just fine without slipping.

Thanks

Luke

beeza
06-06-2009, 01:33 PM
"Few new problems" LOL

So true.

Man,if we keep learning ourselves like this,we're a gonna be smarts soon isn't we?

:) (sorry I couldn't help Lukey)

Lukezen27
06-06-2009, 01:35 PM
"Few new problems" LOL

So true.

Man,if we keep learning ourselves like this,we're a gonna be smarts soon isn't we?

:) (sorry I couldn't help Lukey)

That's the hope beeza ;)

fatboyz39
06-06-2009, 03:12 PM
Vibrations is from driveshafts

What clutch are you running?

lookingforboost
06-06-2009, 03:17 PM
i know this my sounds silly but hey, did you make sure your wheel nuts are done up tight???

Lukezen27
06-06-2009, 03:46 PM
Vibrations is from driveshafts

What clutch are you running?

M-factory race


i know this my sounds silly but hey, did you make sure your wheel nuts are done up tight???


lol Ryan

First thing I checked :)

CRXer
06-06-2009, 06:40 PM
f'd if i know lukey,i only just learnt how to open a car bonnet today....

werent u having some probs locating or sizing diff bearings if i recall?
was the diff clearanced properly to the housing?
hop nunder the car & make sure the driveshafts are still inserted fully & the intermediate shaft is done up (tight;) )

was the release bearing changed out with the clutch?

go gather some more info & better noise descriptions

Lukezen27
06-06-2009, 06:48 PM
f'd if i know lukey,i only just learnt how to open a car bonnet today....

werent u having some probs locating or sizing diff bearings if i recall?
was the diff clearanced properly to the housing?
hop nunder the car & make sure the driveshafts are still inserted fully & the intermediate shaft is done up (tight;) )

was the release bearing changed out with the clutch?

go gather some more info & better noise descriptions

:p at Jason

Na that was my last setup... man, No problems till now with new setup..

Yeah all new bearing with the new clutch and the clutch came with its own push bearing I believe..

I don't think vibrations have anything to do with the clutch and as you've said more than likely driver shafts or something like that

Limbo
07-06-2009, 12:47 AM
bleed the clutch again for the first & second hard to get in prob.

The mfactory should be fine with OEM fluids


u always seem to be the lucky one. SOmeone should get you to do product testing u seem to always get the dog problems :)

Lukezen27
07-06-2009, 09:24 AM
bleed the clutch again for the first & second hard to get in prob.

The mfactory should be fine with OEM fluids


u always seem to be the lucky one. SOmeone should get you to do product testing u seem to always get the dog problems :)

lol yeah

I'm looking at these man

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380127129265&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280353501512&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=

fatboyz39
07-06-2009, 01:31 PM
mfactory race clutch ? never heard. Why use race products for street?

lookingforboost
07-06-2009, 03:47 PM
why not :P

Lukezen27
07-06-2009, 04:27 PM
My engine mounts were loose after the B16A conversion and I was driving round without knowing.

Right this have damaged my clutch and cause the weird vibrations?


mfactory race clutch ? never heard. Why use race products for street?

Its semi race/ HD street spec

http://www.teammfactory.com/products.php?category=Racing%20Clutch&mod=B

Middle one

Benson
08-06-2009, 12:14 PM
So it vibrates when your over 40km/hr under acceleration? or no acceleration?

Vibration in cornering?

Need more details

90LAN
08-06-2009, 12:18 PM
have you got that rubber balancer on drive shaft ?

sounds like you diff in you box is playing up

what a great motor you bought luke lol

Lukezen27
08-06-2009, 12:31 PM
So it vibrates when your over 40km/hr under acceleration? or no acceleration?

Vibration in cornering?

Need more details

OK

Vibrating when I turning left

no vibrating at any speed if I'm not in gear.

Dose not make a difference if I'm accelerating or not

Dose not vibrate if I'm driving straight accelerating or rolling


have you got that rubber balancer on drive shaft ?

sounds like you diff in you box is playing up

what a great motor you bought luke lol

Its a brand new M-Factory LSD in a recon box bro

Limbo
08-06-2009, 08:14 PM
save ur money, let me get mine on the road and i'll tell ya how my energy inserts are going. THey were alot cheaper.

P.S exchange rate is around 1:0.77 currently so not too bad


lol yeah

I'm looking at these man

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380127129265&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280353501512&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=

Lukezen27
09-06-2009, 08:29 AM
save ur money, let me get mine on the road and i'll tell ya how my energy inserts are going. THey were alot cheaper.

P.S exchange rate is around 1:0.77 currently so not too bad

Got a link to the inserts Hao?

Lukezen27
20-06-2009, 05:29 PM
Well I can't fuking believe it..........

Just picked up my car from Hannys with the new clutch installed and thirds crunching up and down gears..........

Looks like there was some damage to the syincro while driving out to Hannys as my clutch died.

Any tricks on fixing this like thicker box oil maybe?

Limbo
21-06-2009, 07:59 AM
u can try some of that oil stabiliser stuff from lucas, i used that before and it helped abit.
The other thing is also 50% auto transmission fluid, is supose to help crunching boxes.

TODA AU
21-06-2009, 08:43 AM
My engine mounts were loose after the B16A conversion and I was driving round without knowing.
:thumbsup: Nice...


Vibrating when I turning left
no vibrating at any speed if I'm not in gear.
Now that it's been apart & reassembled...
How's this issue?
Still there? or is it fixed?


Its a brand new M-Factory LSD in a recon box bro
Reconditioned or overhauled & checked?
There a huge differnce in price...
Just throwing in the LSD could be your noise if end float wasn't checked.
How much did you spend?



Just picked up my car from Hannys with the new clutch installed and thirds crunching up and down gears..........

Looks like there was some damage to the syincro while driving out to Hannys as my clutch died.

Is the issue at all rpm ranges or only high rpm?
Might also be a selector fork if you were forcing it previously....

Lukezen27
21-06-2009, 02:23 PM
:thumbsup: Nice...

Could not have said it better myself.

Now that it's been apart & reassembled...
How's this issue?
Still there? or is it fixed?

Brake Pad change and it went away two days after.

Reconditioned or overhauled & checked?
There a huge differnce in price...
Just throwing in the LSD could be your noise if end float wasn't checked.
How much did you spend?

Yeah just new bearing and check $120 parts $80 labor

Is the issue at all rpm ranges or only high rpm?
Might also be a selector fork if you were forcing it previously....

Any RPM

He's some good news and the reason I didn't notice it driving from hannys to you Adrian...

Only starts crunching after the car warms up and the box must be hot..

Drive it round the block a few times this morning without one crunch before the cars warm.

So the box needs bleeding yeah?

fatboyz39
22-06-2009, 12:54 PM
Your synros are gone.

Lukezen27
22-06-2009, 01:04 PM
Your synros are gone.

Na all good

Must have jsut been air in there as it was the first ime it had been driven after the clutch change...

No crunching anymore hot all cold :thumbsup:

Lukezen27
23-06-2009, 10:26 AM
Pete from Hannys thinks we might be able to fix my problem by putting in slightly thicker box fluid J

As it dose not crunch cold that means its crunching once the fluid heats up thinning out..

What's the OEM thickness? and whats a good thicker box fluid to use guys?

Thanks

90LAN
23-06-2009, 10:38 AM
75-90 i think

endless make a 75-125 if you want thick

lookingforboost
23-06-2009, 10:39 AM
Red line shockproof bro................ do it!!!! i would get new steel selector forks for it to :)

i dont think thicker oil will fix it man, my 33 crunched sometimes going into gear and got all the box oil changed with thin nulon smooth shift and its smick now!

Benson
23-06-2009, 10:51 AM
how the hell did your engine mounts get lose after the conversion?

Lukezen27
23-06-2009, 10:57 AM
Red line shockproof bro................ do it!!!! i would get new steel selector forks for it to :)

i dont think thicker oil will fix it man, my 33 crunched sometimes going into gear and got all the box oil changed with thin nulon smooth shift and its smick now!

What about this stuff Ryan?

http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?productName=Manual_Gearbox_and_Diff_T reatment

My mates who's an avionics engineer swears by it


how the hell did your engine mounts get lose after the conversion?

Just over looked I guess... all good now

90LAN
23-06-2009, 10:59 AM
how the hell did your engine mounts get lose after the conversion?

too much power from the turbo
and with a good cultch the power to the ground
caused the mounts to come loose

Lukezen27
23-06-2009, 12:49 PM
Anyone got a pic of where the box oil filler bolt is?

I'm sure I can find it but would be nice to see :)

CRXer
23-06-2009, 01:14 PM
its just to the left of the driver side drive shaft,u cant miss it,drain bolt below the drive shaft

90LAN
23-06-2009, 01:26 PM
luke theres a diy thread to change gb oil mate
should be what your looking for

Benson
23-06-2009, 02:18 PM
too much power from the turbo
and with a good cultch the power to the ground
caused the mounts to come loose

Thats a lame epxlanation

Obviously who ever put in the mounts didnt tighten it enough.. probably just hand tighten

90LAN
23-06-2009, 02:21 PM
Thats a lame epxlanation

Obviously who ever put in the mounts didnt tighten it enough.. probably just hand tighten

you dont have that problem
so you wouldnt understand lol

obviously

Lukezen27
23-06-2009, 02:47 PM
Thats a lame epxlanation

Obviously who ever put in the mounts didnt tighten it enough.. probably just hand tighten

Boost on stock mounts dose seem to loosen everything

Benson
23-06-2009, 04:41 PM
you dont have that problem
so you wouldnt understand lol

obviously

I guess you have the same problem?:p

Limbo
24-06-2009, 12:58 PM
lol, lock tight or gasket glue in the thread.

try just putting the lucas oil stabilizer to thicken the gearbox oil

90LAN
24-06-2009, 01:08 PM
I guess you have the same problem?:p

actually my threads are seized from hard parking

fix the problem yet luke ?

Lukezen27
27-06-2009, 08:00 PM
OK Nulon box stuff added.. lets see how it goes through the next week

If not good I might try some box fluids

Castrol Syntrans 75w85 or 75w80
Redline Shockproof light 17w90

Anyone tried these box fluids?

dvsx
27-06-2009, 10:28 PM
did u end up fixing the vibrating issue? was it your mounts?

my dc2 has the same sorta problem. when i brake going over 50 km/h, steering wheel shakes pretty violently. as soon as it drops under 50, it stops.

bennjamin
28-06-2009, 08:26 AM
did u end up fixing the vibrating issue? was it your mounts?

my dc2 has the same sorta problem. when i brake going over 50 km/h, steering wheel shakes pretty violently. as soon as it drops under 50, it stops.

Sounds like you need to machine your front discs !

Limbo
28-06-2009, 08:32 AM
Castrol Syntrans 75w85 or 75w80, it was the silver bottle
Used that before, i'd have to say pretty average though, no difference from OEM honda

Limbo
28-06-2009, 08:37 AM
he just got his brakes done so i dunno, would have thought they would have looked at the discs


Sounds like you need to machine your front discs !

Lukezen27
28-06-2009, 10:58 AM
Mine went away after a few days with new brake pads all round

Lukezen27
03-07-2009, 03:11 PM
Hey Guys

Well since putting in the nulon stuff in the gears don't grind anymore...

Just a clunk every now and then when changing into third...

CTR_EK9
07-07-2009, 06:36 PM
I know a few friends were having problems with their cars after changing new clutch (brass button clutch), car seems to be running okay at first but after awhile they were having problems with their driveshaft, wheel bearings and hard to get into gears. What causes this to happen? clutch is too strong for the gearbox to handle?

I've bought a excedy brass button clutch long time ago but havent put it in yet but at the same time im scare to have the same problem as my friends....

zropts
13-07-2009, 12:53 PM
well, 1st things first, you're friends are gay! lol... stock drive shafts are only made to handle certain hp (ie. no more than 200hp) and torque levels. If you have a car with more hp & torque (ie. bigger engine) than stock limits and suspension not adjusted correctly, you are more than likely to hurt your drive shaft. Correct me if I'm wrong.

The US has different stage (street-drag etc.) drive shafts and cost from $200-$1800US. I haven't seen any companies in Australia yet that stock such items.

I'll be getting a street-drag drive shaft next as stock drive shafts are too weak and has caused many headaches. In US, they call them Axels or something like that.:thumbsup:

Lukezen27
13-07-2009, 01:11 PM
well, 1st things first, you're friends are gay! lol... stock drive shafts are only made to handle certain hp (ie. no more than 200hp) and torque levels. If you have a car with more hp & torque (ie. bigger engine) than stock limits and suspension not adjusted correctly, you are more than likely to hurt your drive shaft. Correct me if I'm wrong.

The US has different stage (street-drag etc.) drive shafts and cost from $200-$1800US. I haven't seen any companies in Australia yet that stock such items.

I'll be getting a street-drag drive shaft next as stock drive shafts are too weak and has caused many headaches. In US, they call them Axels or something like that.:thumbsup:

Well I'm at 202HP ATW so fingers crossed :p

Limbo
15-07-2009, 03:34 PM
brass button ones put alot of pressure on the box and depending on how hard you drive it causes premature wear so, yeah things tend to get broken. i.e syncros


I know a few friends were having problems with their cars after changing new clutch (brass button clutch), car seems to be running okay at first but after awhile they were having problems with their driveshaft, wheel bearings and hard to get into gears. What causes this to happen? clutch is too strong for the gearbox to handle?

I've bought a excedy brass button clutch long time ago but havent put it in yet but at the same time im scare to have the same problem as my friends....

Lukezen27
21-07-2009, 12:28 PM
OK guys

I got some Nulon 80/80 :thumbsup:

Honda OEM oil is 80/95 and thrid only crunches once the box is very hot but not when its cold ie 80 :p