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View Full Version : standard or sequential box?



stndrd
08-06-2009, 11:52 AM
Just wondering what peoples thoughts are on the s2000 box when you start tracking them with a worked motor? do they stand up to the power and abuse? or would it be better to put something like a holinger sequential behind the f20c1 if the motor has been re-built and worked?

Ferrari
08-06-2009, 06:28 PM
I think anyone who had 25 k spare for a box would consider it as an option, no one on Ozhonda though.

chunky
08-06-2009, 06:37 PM
holy shit
25k for a sequential?

trism
08-06-2009, 08:34 PM
yep, thats about the going rate for a holinger sequential box

chunky
08-06-2009, 08:40 PM
i thought it was like 500 bucks
get fked sequential
for noobs anyway
standard gear box ftw

JMSBND
08-06-2009, 08:53 PM
Standard gearbox is fine.

Really depends who is driving. Respect it, dont rush it or jump on the clutch like a trampoline and it is more than adequate.

JAP-S2K
08-06-2009, 10:20 PM
I can't see anything wrong with the factory box if you plan to keep it N/A and have engine work. The weakness in them are synchro's, and they should will be fine providing you bleed your system frequently and use a good fluid. And monitor if clutch master is leaking. If your heading down the path of forced induction, then it's a bit like asking how long is a piece of string??? Depends on how serious, how much power, and generally how hard you physically are on gear changes. Can i ask why would you consider sequential? These gearboxes are terrible if you plan to keep your car as a street/circuit car.

Age_S2000
08-06-2009, 11:40 PM
look at clips on You Tube all s2ks turbod or s/c are running stock boxes
they are a fine piece of engenieering ;)

WhiteAP1
09-06-2009, 12:26 AM
The box is fine and you dont need to change it.

If Elias can run a ten second pass, launching at 9k rpm on the standard H gate, im pretty sure the box can handle a "worked motor"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-kZM_IDEx4

vyets
09-06-2009, 08:51 AM
lol 500 for holinger barginn!!
a sequential box will shift before you can say the word shift :P

jaeyon
09-06-2009, 04:15 PM
The box is fine and you dont need to change it.

If Elias can run a ten second pass, launching at 9k rpm on the standard H gate, im pretty sure the box can handle a "worked motor"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-kZM_IDEx4

i believe this guy has broken his gearbox before. it was on a clip of the review of his car.

do you want it for drag work or for track work? manual gearboxes suck for drags.

e240
09-06-2009, 06:12 PM
Just get an Ikeya Formula Sequential conversion kit...

Sequential gearbox - make one horny just thinking about it...

moo moo nel
09-06-2009, 06:20 PM
Just get an Ikeya Formula Sequential conversion kit...

Sequential gearbox - make one horny just thinking about it...

Can you help me to get one?
I will give you $500 :p

ludecrs
09-06-2009, 07:21 PM
The box is fine and you dont need to change it.

If Elias can run a ten second pass, launching at 9k rpm on the standard H gate, im pretty sure the box can handle a "worked motor"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-kZM_IDEx4

Elias broke 2nd gear a few years back, but still outdid the boosted RX8 around Oran Park without it.... both cars driven by Warren Luff on the same day.

Ferrari
09-06-2009, 08:34 PM
Elias's car running 10 sec has a PPG gearbox and a nissan diff, and 1000 hp axles there is no way he would have run those numbers otherwise.

WhiteAP1
09-06-2009, 09:17 PM
Elias' car running 10 sec has a PPG gearbox and a nissan diff, and 1000 hp axles there is no way he would have run those numbers otherwise.

There you go. I knew about diff (skyline diff IIRC and a lovely shade of blue at that) didnt realise he upgraded the box, i just thought he swapped them out every so often. Abuse anything the wrong way and it will break. Still i dont think a $25,000 replacement is needed if you decide to increase power, considering how the standard box is already pretty damn good .

stndrd
09-06-2009, 09:58 PM
firstly, i am not another one of these "gonna, wanna" people. i am doing all my research and asking the 'stupid' questions that most people shrug off with smart ass comments because at the end of the day, im gonna be blowing 35k if not more to set up the s2k how i want and i want to know what the rest of the s2k world does so i dont shaft myself from trying to be 'different'.

the plans for the car are to be a dedicated track car once completed with a complete TODA Racing 2.35L stroker kit with ITB, cams etc etc. I just wasnt sure if the stock box would be able to handle track abuse with these sort of mods using top shelf oils. i didnt realise holinger's were 25k, and i honestly cant justify that sort of money on a gearbox (unless the h-gate just doesnt do it for me ne more and i win the lottery) so a good o'l set of PPG internals will do the job yes?

F20C
09-06-2009, 10:33 PM
I can't see anything wrong with the factory box if you plan to keep it N/A and have engine work. The weakness in them are synchro's, and they should will be fine providing you bleed your system frequently and use a good fluid. And monitor if clutch master is leaking. If your heading down the path of forced induction, then it's a bit like asking how long is a piece of string??? Depends on how serious, how much power, and generally how hard you physically are on gear changes. Can i ask why would you consider sequential? These gearboxes are terrible if you plan to keep your car as a street/circuit car.

cant you just upgrade the synchros with the ap2 synchros? they would last longer then the ap1's.. i assumed their stronger?

WhiteAP1
10-06-2009, 01:18 PM
firstly, i am not another one of these "gonna, wanna" people. i am doing all my research and asking the 'stupid' questions that most people shrug off with smart ass comments because at the end of the day, im gonna be blowing 35k if not more to set up the s2k how i want and i want to know what the rest of the s2k world does so i dont shaft myself from trying to be 'different'.

the plans for the car are to be a dedicated track car once completed with a complete TODA Racing 2.35L stroker kit with ITB, cams etc etc. I just wasnt sure if the stock box would be able to handle track abuse with these sort of mods using top shelf oils. i didnt realise holinger's were 25k, and i honestly cant justify that sort of money on a gearbox (unless the h-gate just doesnt do it for me ne more and i win the lottery) so a good o'l set of PPG internals will do the job yes?

Its all good man! Thats how you should have started this thread.

Unless your going for big forced induction power I'd say leave the gearbox alone. Changing the synchros is a good idea (makes the most sense) but again you can get away with leaving it alone. (until a certain point)

Im running aftermarket internals,bolt ons, a slightly higher compression etc.. Not only is it for the track its a daily driver. Its making over 150kw at the wheels and the standard gearbox has endured my abuse and miss-shifts for some time now.

My suggestion is to leave the box alone for now. The fact that your stroking it would mean your red-line would now be lower and wouldn't cause as much stress as 9K rpm would.

If your keeping it NA, keep the OEM box. (This is all with the assumption that you current gearbox is in decent condition at the moment)

F20C
10-06-2009, 04:39 PM
whiteap1 do you get that shitty 2nd gear grindage? lol

WhiteAP1
10-06-2009, 05:03 PM
Every now and again not in a while though. I find it happens more if im turning.

F20C
10-06-2009, 05:05 PM
really? mine doesnt either but i randomly get it while i move from granny driving to abit harder.. (shifting at 2.5k to 3k range then moving to about 4-5) sometimes i get it at 9k.. but thats like once a month haha.

e240
10-06-2009, 05:58 PM
Can you help me to get one?
I will give you $500 :p

Sure...I'll put it in my bank account and maybe after 1000 years, we might just have enough.... :-p

jaeyon
10-06-2009, 07:18 PM
whiteap1 do you get that shitty 2nd gear grindage? lol

i get 2nd gear grinding as well. its a synchro problem. i believe there is a tsb on it too

F20C
10-06-2009, 07:48 PM
jaeyon whats a tsb? im thinking of getting a reco on my box, and upgrading the synchros to ap2 shynchros. anyone else done this? and a price you paid?

stndrd
10-06-2009, 08:26 PM
tsb stands for technical service bulletin. its along the lines of a re-call, tho not as bad. pretty much a tsb says that problem 'a' has occured x amount of times and after honda does some research as to why it happens and what fixes it, they release a tsb to all honda service departments to say this is how you fix problem 'a'.

jaeyon do you know the tsb ref number at all? would like to give a couple of old work mates a call and see if they can get their hands on it (if they are still working for honda...)

jaeyon
10-06-2009, 08:31 PM
http://www.s2ki.com/shared/library/TSB/A00-055/index.htm

^^^, however it doesnt refer to synchros, it is referring to countershafts? i have no idea what that is.

im not sure if they will fix it for you though for free, would be sweet if they did though

my 2nd gear grind is pretty bad, cars done high kms as well

F20C
10-06-2009, 09:20 PM
my grind isnt often but when it is it hurts :( so if they have released a tsb for it wether or not your car is still insured they will fix it? or must you still have warrenty on your ride?

jaeyon
10-06-2009, 09:22 PM
my grind isnt often but when it is it hurts :( so if they have released a tsb for it wether or not your car is still insured they will fix it? or must you still have warrenty on your ride?

lol it always does. the tsb has been released, however as most s2ks on this forum will be out of the warranty period, whether or not they fix it is at the dealers discretion, which most of the time means no.

unless your friendly with your dealer they might do it for you, however mine with 140 000kms i dont think theres any chance i could get mine done free of charge :(

F20C
10-06-2009, 09:24 PM
ahh do i have a chance? i just clocked 82k last night lol. I'll do some ring arounds see what can be done about it.

jaeyon
10-06-2009, 09:27 PM
ahh do i have a chance? i just clocked 82k last night lol. I'll do some ring arounds see what can be done about it.

lol i think your chances would be slim, but if you do find a dealer willing to do it post it up!

ideally id like to find an ap2 gearbox with the carbon synchros, however i have a feeling with the plans i have for this car, some more stronger gears would also be in order (plan on going FI hopefully next year!) so ill just make do with what i have till it breaks.

does the crunch happen all the time or just when the car is still cold? i find that once my cars properly warmed up, its alot easier to get into gear, just need to take it easy when changing with nice firm shifts

F20C
10-06-2009, 09:30 PM
see it randomlly does it, i never drive my car cold i let it warm up (3 bars lol thought i'd state that) anyway like i might drive hard in 1st hit 8.7k rpm and as im changing gears into 2nd it would grind? It used to do it while i was driving in the 4-5k range but it hasnt for sometime now so really its just around the vtec range..

JAP-S2K
10-06-2009, 10:18 PM
see it randomlly does it, i never drive my car cold i let it warm up (3 bars lol thought i'd state that) anyway like i might drive hard in 1st hit 8.7k rpm and as im changing gears into 2nd it would grind? It used to do it while i was driving in the 4-5k range but it hasnt for sometime now so really its just around the vtec range..

Try changing you clutch fluid first. Although it's probably to late now, but the whole crunchy nut gear changes start from this problem. A grit build up around the master cylinder piston causes the master cylinder to leak, thus giving inconsistent pedal pressure, this in turn puts more stress on synchro's and it becomes harder to select gears at higher rpm's or when making faster gear changes. This enventually causes major synchro damage.

Simple maintenance will prevent this from happening. I looked into this, as i was replacing leaking clutch master cylinders quite frequently. And was informed that is a common issue no just in Honda's but most manufactures.

I just did a fluid change(motul rbf600 fluid used) instead replacing the clutch master again, and it feels alot better and the gears seem to feel nice and notchy again. I also did a gearbox fluid change too. I highly reccomend this be done.:thumbsup: Hopefully this solves your crunchy gearchanges.

F20C
10-06-2009, 10:21 PM
Stupid question but, how would i refil box fluid?

JAP-S2K
10-06-2009, 10:30 PM
There's a filler plug on the side, maybe best you take it to someone. As it's best done off a hoist and filled with an oil pump.

JAP-S2K
10-06-2009, 10:37 PM
lol i think your chances would be slim, but if you do find a dealer willing to do it post it up!

ideally id like to find an ap2 gearbox with the carbon synchros, however i have a feeling with the plans i have for this car, some more stronger gears would also be in order (plan on going FI hopefully next year!) so ill just make do with what i have till it breaks.

does the crunch happen all the time or just when the car is still cold? i find that once my cars properly warmed up, its alot easier to get into gear, just need to take it easy when changing with nice firm shifts

John, i've been told that AP2 gearboxes do not have carbon synchro's. And that the synchro's are as per AP1 with only 6th gear ratio and final drive being changed.

Believe it or not the factory box is actually quite strong and providing you don't plan on drag racing, doing burnouts or drifting(eg. heaps of costant abuse), and stick to circuit and street driving, you shouldn't encounter any problems.

F20C
10-06-2009, 10:47 PM
Well when i go to get my clutch master cylinder fixed ill get them to change the fluids to if they didnt went they changed my clutch (for some weird reason i dont think they did)