Problems with the Euro

[Ken-f]

Sorry, I'm not to sure if there is already a thread about this.

I wanted to know now, about 5 years down the track since the euro was released (cl9), what kind of problems you've experienced.

So far for me:
> A/C Compressor exploded and shattered
> Front passenger window is really noisy
> Both front door lock actuators are slowly dying
> Creaking Clutch.
> Numerous small globes (in the buttons) blown
> Battery Died (Totally normal tho)

Edit: > Glove box not aligned. (Common issue as well)

[oneian]

NO problems to report so far.. everything is as good as gold.

[Ken-f]

How long have you had your car for? Did you buy it brand new?

[Darkii_]

Mines an 07, so far just steering wheel squeaking when i turn when stationary / moving slowly - reported as under investigation =s

[euromandeluxe]

i have an 05. picked it up at 29,000km about a year ago. currently at 42,000km.

-there's a whine/screech taking off uphill in first. apparently its the release bearing. dealer hasn't been able to reproduce it. should take it back to them asap.

-creaking clutch pedal (temp fixed with some lubricant at the last service)

-driver's side door sometimes doesn't lock or unlock with the remote. takes 2 or 3 times. i've read about it on these forums before.

-rattling noise near glovebox when driving above around 5,800rpm. also read about this before.

..everything else is okay. :)

[r-r-redEuro]

Mines an 07, so far just steering wheel squeaking when i turn when stationary / moving slowly - reported as under investigation =s

i have the same problem!! omggg, i dont know why but it just happened like RECENTLY. i was gonna tell them to do it during my 30,000km service.

also when i reverse i hear my right rear brakes making really loud squeeking noise its like "eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee" and when im driving you hear it hissing or something ?

does anyone know ?

i thought i needed to change my brakes but its only 30,000kms on it and my fronts have a fair bit of meat left.

do the rear brakes wear faster then the front ?

[power_of_dreams]

creaking clutch -> master cylinder replaced under warranty
dead battery -> normal, replaced
squeaking drivers seat -> not fixed
drivers side a-pillar rattle -> fixed under warranty
intermittent glovebox rattle -> not fixed
first start in the morning, power steering squeak -> not fixed, barely noticeable

[tony1234]

Mine's an 06 bought new.
1)auto sensing wiper module.Fixed under warranty.
2)Battery.Started turning over slow last winter.Replaced myself with higher CCA battery.Fixed.
That's all!

[Darkii_]

i have the same problem!! omggg, i dont know why but it just happened like RECENTLY. i was gonna tell them to do it during my 30,000km service.

Yep mine was recent too, told them at my 30k service aswell lols...under investigation i'm told. Emailed Honda to check if theres a fix etc, no reply after a month.

[akina]

My gearbox failed :(

[Ken-f]

Wow....thats serious! How much did it cost for repair?

[akina]

Luckily it went under warranty :thumbsup:

Honda ftw!

[davec]

Creaking clutch!!

[Rob_A]

also when i reverse i hear my right rear brakes making really loud squeeking noise its like "eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee" and when im driving you hear it hissing or something ?

does anyone know ?

i thought i needed to change my brakes but its only 30,000kms on it and my fronts have a fair bit of meat left.

do the rear brakes wear faster then the front ?

I had this with mine it was the rear pad wear indicators. I did my rear pads at 76,000kms and fronts at 70,000kms.

Rob

[r-r-redEuro]

I had this with mine it was the rear pad wear indicators. I did my rear pads at 76,000kms and fronts at 70,000kms.

Rob

really ? its so bad but like ive only clocked 30,000kms on my car :S and when im driving it willl hiss even up to speed at 80+ kms, but when im moving very slowly at like 5km+ it doesnt make a hiss. then in reverse it goes EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE. :confused:

[mattchuej8]

- clutch didnt creak but felt like it clicked like a snapped at a certain point.
- vibration while picking up speeds
- as above when reversing it sounds like those remote control cars. "eeeeeeeeeeeeeeee" lol

Lucky i had dealer warranty so all were fixed for free.

[Blk-Em1]

Hi Guys,
pretty new to the euro world but here is a few things that ive noticed when owning an 05 model for a 2 months

creaking clutch - temp fix with lube from honda under warranty but checking on the service records form previous owner, the master clutch cylinder has already been changed once before and from what ive heard is that this problem was already supposed to be fixed in the 05+ models?

right window actuator not working > fixed under warranty

car idle revs high when clutch pushed down (or in neutral) before coming to a stop (1600prm - 1900rpm) > took to honda, they reset the ECU but still has the problem
^
has anyone else had this problem?

Still love my euro tho :D just a pain in the a$$ to take it back to honda

[Ken-f]

Yea, after the problems I had, I still love the car aha.

[oneian]

Doesn't shift smoothly into 2nd gear, after cold start. Will be changing gear oil next week. hopefully will fix this

[Ken-f]

Do you mean....it feels rough at the stick? Or the actual car jerks a lot when u shift?

[power_of_dreams]

Doesn't shift smoothly into 2nd gear, after cold start. Will be changing gear oil next week. hopefully will fix this

won't change alot if you are talking about downshifts. Even after changing my gb fluid it still struggles to downshift into 2nd on cold mornings. it just needs to warm up, not much you can do.

[euromandeluxe]

won't change alot if you are talking about downshifts. Even after changing my gb fluid it still struggles to downshift into 2nd on cold mornings. it just needs to warm up, not much you can do.

how many km's was yours at when you did the gb fluid change?

did you notice any of the other aspects of shifting feeling any different afterwards?

[Accord Basic]

I have 03 Euro travelled 140k.

clutch creaking;
driver side door actuator repaired;
driver seat noice;
steering wheel trim (behined the horn) pop up and never go back;
battery replaced;
Air con sometime working sometime not;
engine noise from speakers when the rear de fogger on (all stock audio);
heater seat switch bulb replaced;
tapper or follower noise from Engine.

[oneian]

Do you mean....it feels rough at the stick? Or the actual car jerks a lot when u shift?

Car doesn't jerk, its a slight rough grind into 2nd thats :O) But as 'power of dreams' pointed out guess its a lot to do with the cold mornings thats all..

[johnprocter]

i have the same problem!! omggg, i dont know why but it just happened like RECENTLY. i was gonna tell them to do it during my 30,000km service.

also when i reverse i hear my right rear brakes making really loud squeeking noise its like "eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee" and when im driving you hear it hissing or something ?

does anyone know ?

i thought i needed to change my brakes but its only 30,000kms on it and my fronts have a fair bit of meat left.

do the rear brakes wear faster then the front ?

mate i had this problem and they found out the power steering pump was leaking... to test this fill up your power steering fluid and see if it still gives u the noise

[r-r-redEuro]

mate i had this problem and they found out the power steering pump was leaking... to test this fill up your power steering fluid and see if it still gives u the noise

the abit about the steering wheel squeeking whilst turning when stationary or moving slowly ? or the driver side rear brake squeeking ? :(

[Darkii_]

I think he's talking about the squeaking while turning + stationary/moving slowly. I checked my power steering level and it seems like its still in the high level or something?

Not sure, i'll have a look again later

[johnprocter]

the abit about the steering wheel squeeking whilst turning when stationary or moving slowly ? or the driver side rear brake squeeking ? :(

steering wheel squeeky whilst turning when stationary and moving slowly !

[power_of_dreams]

how many km's was yours at when you did the gb fluid change?

did you notice any of the other aspects of shifting feeling any different afterwards?

33k
I would go into 2nd on the downshift alot easier, with and without rev matching

[sodhi90]

Anyone had CV boots splitting on them?, i got 100ks on my 03 euro 5AT and i notices grease splatted everywhere on the inside of my front left rim , gonna get it checked out tomorrow.

[panda_oz]

I have a second hand 2003 Euro with ~ 110,000 on the clock. I have started having intermittent electrical problems see my post:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114432

This is quite a serious problem and Honad have yet to diagnose it properly.
It doesn't seem to be an isolated problem as another Euro driver noted similar problems (read post #15 in the link):
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Honda/Accord/2003/electrical/dashboard_electrical_short.shtml

[The X Man]

drivers side a-pillar rattle -> fixed under warranty

Can you tell me what they did? I have the same problem on both sides and it's driving me insane.

[power_of_dreams]

Can you tell me what they did? I have the same problem on both sides and it's driving me insane.

they told me they took it apart and put foam in there, sort of like where the dash meets the A-pillar.

havn't heard it since, so happy with the job they did.

[The X Man]

they told me they took it apart and put foam in there, sort of like where the dash meets the A-pillar.

Ah, i hear clicking (like a wiring loom or something is loose and hitting the plastic) where the A-pillar airbag cover meets with the rook lining, right next to your head and on both sides. It's bloody annoying.

[power_of_dreams]

Ah, i hear clicking (like a wiring loom or something is loose and hitting the plastic) where the A-pillar airbag cover meets with the rook lining, right next to your head and on both sides. It's bloody annoying.

hmm doesn't sound like the same thing. best of luck getting it fixed though :thumbsup:

[sdablhad]

'05 auto, 55,000klms. only problem is the brake discs warping (fronts) had them skimmed once and that helped for 5 - 10k but now back to how they were before. get a decent amount of brake shudder thru the steering wheel when braking slightly harder than usual.

[crunkman99]

baught the car im the second owner. 03 euro 90xxxkms .

driveshaft cracked, get a noise like a nail is stuck in my tyre

all the head unit contorls and radio controls stopped working. had to replace the dash. still under warrenty.

fuel pump ground snapped off

numerous dead battereys :(

and just brake pads lol.

[SPQR]

My 04 Standard 5AT is approaching 90K. In its life it's had:

Wandering at speed (design fault - live with);
The front disk rotors replaced (warped - my cost);
Noisy steering when turning at parking speeds (which turned out to be split power steering high pressure hoses - warranty);
Blown aircon circuit breaker (which was due to ozone loving ants in the breaker - warranty);
Tramlining (which was fixed by fitting 205/50R17 tyres instead of 225/45R17 - my cost);
Broken centre console lid (not fixed yet - my cost eventually);
Warped and squeaky front disk brakes (not fixed yet - my cost eventually);
Three shock absorbers seized spontaneously at around 85K (four replaced - warranty); and
The paint has seen better days (wife now drives and parks my car - explains the dents too).

[The X Man]

I suppose i should comment on the problems i have had.

Purchased Brand New July 2008

Sunroof seal badly sun damaged on pickup - replaced under warranty
Wiper blades stuffed on pickup - replaced under warranty
Drivers seat squeeking loudly - replaced under warranty
Rear LHS door seal hanging off - fixed myself
Clutch creaking - fixed myself
Glovebox did not sit flush - replaced under warranty
Rattling front & right door trims - attempted fix under warranty - no good
Rattling behind glovebox - fixed myself
Rattling from A pillar covers - TBA
Tramlines like a mofo - TBA


Would i buy another Honda? No effing way.

[tony1234]

I suppose i should comment on the problems i have had.

Purchased Brand New July 2008

Sunroof seal badly sun damaged on pickup - replaced under warranty
Wiper blades stuffed on pickup - replaced under warranty
Drivers seat squeeking loudly - replaced under warranty
Rear LHS door seal hanging off - fixed myself
Clutch creaking - fixed myself
Glovebox did not sit flush - replaced under warranty
Rattling front & right door trims - attempted fix under warranty - no good
Rattling behind glovebox - fixed myself
Rattling from A pillar covers - TBA
Tramlines like a mofo - TBA


Would i buy another Honda? No effing way.
Wow.So many problems.i've got an 06 and it's rattle free despite having done 54K with stiffer and lowered springs and shocks.It's the best car i've owned in regards to warranty issues.:confused:

[dreamer]

Purchased Brand New July 2008
Would i buy another Honda? No effing way.

Is it a CU2 or CL9?
Can't believe CU2 has so much problems..

[power_of_dreams]

Rattling behind glovebox - fixed myself

can you tell me what the problem was and what it sounded like?
the build quality has been the only dissapointment for me. the amount of rattles and squeaks really gets to you

[The X Man]

Is it a CU2 or CL9?
Can't believe CU2 has so much problems..

CL9 Model

[The X Man]

can you tell me what the problem was and what it sounded like?
the build quality has been the only dissapointment for me. the amount of rattles and squeaks really gets to you

The rattle behind the dash was a loose plastic piece of trim to the right of the glovebox. There weren't any holes for clips so i put a little cloth tape on it and problem solved.

Yep. I found the build quality in mine to be terrible, especially the door trim rattles. I have had lots of new cars (Mitsubishi, Subaru, Toyota) and apart from the Aurion this one is the worst out of all of them.

[Ken-f]

Glovebox did not sit flush - replaced under warranty





I've seen this in 3 euros that i've been in. Its really annoying to look at! Anyway to fix it?

[The X Man]

The dealer replaced the whole lot. Nice and flush now.

[Ken-f]

damn. hoping for a DIY.

[unity]

Rough idle upon cold start up. Car shakes quite a bit when put into gear after allowing the car to warm up for 1 minute. Idle then settles after a few minutes when the engine has warmed up. Not fixed. Have to leave car overnight at dealers and that's just not convenient at the moment.

[tony1234]

I've seen this in 3 euros that i've been in. Its really annoying to look at! Anyway to fix it?
Don't leave the manual and logbook in the glovebox.It seems to be too heavy to be left in there.

[ticktock]

Rough idle upon cold start up. Car shakes quite a bit when put into gear after allowing the car to warm up for 1 minute. Idle then settles after a few minutes when the engine has warmed up. Not fixed. Have to leave car overnight at dealers and that's just not convenient at the moment.

I'm noticing this with my 06 euro auto. It settles down after a few minutes so I thought it might be "normal" with the colder weather now. Maybe I should take it in to the dealer for a look since it's under warranty until October :confused:

There are a few intermittent rattles around the place too. Can those be fixed under warranty?

[unity]

I'm noticing this with my 06 euro auto. It settles down after a few minutes so I thought it might be "normal" with the colder weather now. Maybe I should take it in to the dealer for a look since it's under warranty until October :confused:

There are a few intermittent rattles around the place too. Can those be fixed under warranty?

Whilst it settles after a few minutes it still feels wrong. Not only does it feel rougher but also louder at idle. I suppose many people don't notice it because they may drive for a few minutes before they come to a stop and by then the car is warmed up and idling correctly. However, i usually have to stop at a traffic light within a minute of leaving home and this is when I notice it most.

Let me know how you go with your problem. I've told my dealer and they want me to leave my car with them overnight which i can't do just this moment. Where are you located?

Most dealers will fix rattles, especially if you had purchased the car from them. Are you going to purchase the extended warranty? Probably a good idea. Or atleast use that as a bargaining tool.

[ticktock]

Let me know how you go with your problem. I've told my dealer and they want me to leave my car with them overnight which i can't do just this moment. Where are you located?

Most dealers will fix rattles, especially if you had purchased the car from them. Are you going to purchase the extended warranty? Probably a good idea. Or atleast use that as a bargaining tool.

I'm in Adelaide. I'm the second owner, just bought it about 2 months ago in a private sale. It's been great, but just noticed this rough idling for a couple of minutes after starting in this cold weather. I'll probably enquire at my local dealer about it. Let us know how you go too.

[unity]

I'm in Adelaide. I'm the second owner, just bought it about 2 months ago in a private sale. It's been great, but just noticed this rough idling for a couple of minutes after starting in this cold weather. I'll probably enquire at my local dealer about it. Let us know how you go too.

Get it done soon. You won't notice it anymore when the weather begins to warm up again.

[Crapdaz]

I'm in Adelaide. I'm the second owner, just bought it about 2 months ago in a private sale. It's been great, but just noticed this rough idling for a couple of minutes after starting in this cold weather. I'll probably enquire at my local dealer about it. Let us know how you go too.
Sorry i have to ask rough start from cold.

Do you park it outside in the vast forces of nature?
And by rough, can you elaborate a bit on how it is rough?

Cause i know mine is rough on cold starts [ in garage(not as bad as outside) ]or outside) but within a few minutes once the engine is slightly warmer it is fine.

[unity]

Sorry i have to ask rough start from cold.

Do you park it outside in the vast forces of nature?
And by rough, can you elaborate a bit on how it is rough?

Cause i know mine is rough on cold starts [ in garage(not as bad as outside) ]or outside) but within a few minutes once the engine is slightly warmer it is fine.

Yes the roughness is very subjective. For me the rough feeling is quite a strong vibration that is never felt at any other time other than during warm up.

To me it feels like it's a problem because my Civic will warm up with nowhere near that amount of roughness.

[ticktock]

Sorry i have to ask rough start from cold.

Do you park it outside in the vast forces of nature?
And by rough, can you elaborate a bit on how it is rough?

Cause i know mine is rough on cold starts [ in garage(not as bad as outside) ]or outside) but within a few minutes once the engine is slightly warmer it is fine.

It's parked in a garage but I doubt it's much warmer in the garage in the morning than outside. The fact that it is rough for only a few minutes then sorts itself out made me think this is *normal*. Like Unity said it's a strong vibration. It's not horrible but it is a definite departure from the normal very smooth idle where you can hardly feel the car is even on. Reading other comments in this forum it might just be normal, I have no idea. I might speak to my service dept and see what they say.

[Crapdaz]

with outside you get moisture in the air which can create frost.

whereas in the garage your less likely cause its not directly in contact with wind

[lingamair]

Hello,

Had the CU2 for 2 months and the following problems have occured.

1. Pinging (mild but noticeable)
2. Horn fused.
3. Cruise Control unable to "SET". It can be turned on/off but cant set speed regardless whether travelling at 60, 80 or 100.

[blk05gli]

lingamair - i'd speak with your dealer principle for some answers mate.

[sash_euro]

i have the same problem!! omggg, i dont know why but it just happened like RECENTLY. i was gonna tell them to do it during my 30,000km service.

also when i reverse i hear my right rear brakes making really loud squeeking noise its like "eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee" and when im driving you hear it hissing or something ?

does anyone know ?

i thought i needed to change my brakes but its only 30,000kms on it and my fronts have a fair bit of meat left.

do the rear brakes wear faster then the front ?

on newer cars yes, sometimes that is the case, ive replaced my rear pads but my fronts still have 60%.

the rear pads are stupidly small, about the size of 2 50 cent peices

[felixd]

the OEM pads will last for at least 50000kms street use :) that screetching noise is normal cuz the brakes still cold

[lingamair]

lingamair - i'd speak with your dealer principle for some answers mate.

Hey, thanks! Problems are fixed :) Cause - Stupid fuse.

[r-r-redEuro]

the OEM pads will last for at least 50000kms street use :) that screetching noise is normal cuz the brakes still cold

nah it only lasted me 30,000kms and when i changed my brakes the mechanic said it could of been metal on metal ANYtime now so lucky me. but i didnt machine my discs yet and i have noticed a small tiny squeek when i slow down, could it be that the brakes need to to worn into or i need to machine my discs ?

[tknova]

nah it only lasted me 30,000kms and when i changed my brakes the mechanic said it could of been metal on metal ANYtime now so lucky me. but i didnt machine my discs yet and i have noticed a small tiny squeek when i slow down, could it be that the brakes need to to worn into or i need to machine my discs ?

Wow, only 30,000km from the rear pads. I'm up to 55,000km and there now due for replacement.

[dtngo]

nah it only lasted me 30,000kms and when i changed my brakes the mechanic said it could of been metal on metal ANYtime now so lucky me. but i didnt machine my discs yet and i have noticed a small tiny squeek when i slow down, could it be that the brakes need to to worn into or i need to machine my discs ?

The pads may be glazed. I've seen anti-squeek sprays designed for brakes, but have never tried them. My wifes car barkes squeels like a mofo after it rains.

[unity]

I'm in Adelaide. I'm the second owner, just bought it about 2 months ago in a private sale. It's been great, but just noticed this rough idling for a couple of minutes after starting in this cold weather. I'll probably enquire at my local dealer about it. Let us know how you go too.

Hey ticktock, my dealer gave me a 2006 Euro for the day and I gave it 2 cold starts and it felt exactly the same as my car. So my conclusion is that it's normal, although it is a little annoying. Wait till summer and you won't notice it anymore.

[r-r-redEuro]

steering wheel squeeky whilst turning when stationary and moving slowly !

okay guys i had this problem looked at when i went for my 30,000km service. they just lubricated the steering wheel and it was gone ! thats all. no power steering fluid or anything.

[ig3o]

- squeeky clutch
- clutch bearings
- 2nd gear does not go in at high revs

[Ken-f]

How hard are you trying to get it into 2nd ig3o? Usually I have to use a bit of force.

[ozscott]

Come on guys...dont do this to me! I have 2 land rover V8s - one 280,000 the other 150,000 and I not many dramas at all...and all original drive train! I just bought a new (on the ship) auto Euro...I know forums tend to attract both enthuasists and people with problems so surely so JD Power thingos in the US are still right...aren't they?!!!!

Cheers

[ig3o]

How hard are you trying to get it into 2nd ig3o? Usually I have to use a bit of force.

lol i try really hard.. but i gotta let the revs drop down from 7200rpm to about 5500rpm and it slips in..

[r-r-redEuro]

okay guys i had this problem looked at when i went for my 30,000km service. they just lubricated the steering wheel and it was gone ! thats all. no power steering fluid or anything.

okay the above quote i said earlier about the squeeking being fixed ? well it's come back. =.=" they said they lubed the steering wheel and it went away and now its back :S :(

[akina]

nah it only lasted me 30,000kms and when i changed my brakes the mechanic said it could of been metal on metal ANYtime now so lucky me. but i didnt machine my discs yet and i have noticed a small tiny squeek when i slow down, could it be that the brakes need to to worn into or i need to machine my discs ?

what?~!?!

I'm still on the 1st set of pads... i'm on 33000ks with 2 track days and mine are still there! lol

How hard have you been driving?

[power_of_dreams]

the markers on the OEM pads extend pretty far in so even when your brakes start squeeling there is plenty of meat left on the pads. just honda's way of getting you to buy new pads ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$)

[r-r-redEuro]

alexxxxxxxxx !!!!! kid. LOL anyways. umm my brake pads, im talking about the rears ones. and my fronts have about 60% left. so yeah i dont know hwy the rears are wearing out so fast ! i wanna know why so i can save money in not buying new pads every 30,000kms. lol

[power_of_dreams]

rears go first on accord euro.

[aaronng]

alexxxxxxxxx !!!!! kid. LOL anyways. umm my brake pads, im talking about the rears ones. and my fronts have about 60% left. so yeah i dont know hwy the rears are wearing out so fast ! i wanna know why so i can save money in not buying new pads every 30,000kms. lol

Your handbrake cable may be too tight. Or you are doing a lot of handbrake turns.

[JPEG]

Hey guys im having a tranny problem...seems to make weird supercharger like noises in 1st and second gear...its a 2003 auto non luxury btw....and when its in park its like i can hear the whole gearbox spinning...in a supercharger like way :)...but my gear changes are all smooth and the car drives perfect...its done 125000km and its out of warranty :(..where can i get a second hand low mileage gearbox? Or should i just drive it till it seizes? help would be much appreciated

[r-r-redEuro]

Your handbrake cable may be too tight. Or you are doing a lot of handbrake turns.

it might be too tight because every time i read my honda service receipts it says, tighten handbrake etc. but no i don't ever do handbrake turns except for 2 occasions, one was chucking a u turn, and the other was me and my friend just wearing out my old tyres before i put on new ones the day after.

[aaronng]

Has the auto transmission fluid been changed? If you want to get a 2nd hand gearbox, the wreckers would be your best bet.

[JPEG]

Has the auto transmission fluid been changed? If you want to get a 2nd hand gearbox, the wreckers would be your best bet.

yup changed it today with some treatment stuff too...same noise...its only on park and 1st and second gear then it goes away....may be the clutch pack...:( looking for a second hand tranny now....

[aaronng]

it might be too tight because every time i read my honda service receipts it says, tighten handbrake etc. but no i don't ever do handbrake turns except for 2 occasions, one was chucking a u turn, and the other was me and my friend just wearing out my old tyres before i put on new ones the day after.

Count the number of clicks on the handbrake as you pull it up tight. It should be 6-8 clicks.

[aaronng]

yup changed it today with some treatment stuff too...same noise...its only on park and 1st and second gear then it goes away....may be the clutch pack...:( looking for a second hand tranny now....

Is this the first ATF change since new? It should be changed every 2 years. Hopefully you used Honda ATF. Don't add any of the aftermarket treatment things. Those can cause problems in the long run.

[jfaust]

hi all,

- my driver side actuator is stuffed up. cannot use my remote key to lock or open.

[aaronng]

hi all,

- my driver side actuator is stuffed up. cannot use my remote key to lock or open.

Very common problem unfortunately. If you still have warranty, get it replaced. Otherwise, you will be up to some $$$ to get it replaced. The door trim will have to be removed to replace the actuator. On my Euro, the driver's side actuator is sticky.

[EuroAccord13]

For my case, it's the front passenger side actuator that is sticky, it doesn't work when I use central locking button on the driver door but it works when I use the remote......

[aaronng]

For my case, it's the front passenger side actuator is sticky, it doesn't work when I use central locking button on the driver door but it works when I use the remote......

I wonder if the wiring from the central locking button to the actuator has somehow gotten loose/corroded. If the actuator is stuffed, it won't work no matter if you use the central locking button or the remote.

[jfaust]

to open the door i have to actually stick the key in to open it. so now i have no use in using the remote central locking.... :(

[Ken-f]

My drivers side is getting worse. There is some on ebay.....but i dun want to fork out the money just yet.

[ticktock]

Hey ticktock, my dealer gave me a 2006 Euro for the day and I gave it 2 cold starts and it felt exactly the same as my car. So my conclusion is that it's normal, although it is a little annoying. Wait till summer and you won't notice it anymore.

Thanks unity. I'd actually decided not to worry about it as I thought it might be normal. Cheers for the confirmation.

I still need to get some rattles sorted out though (seems to be an unfortunate feature of the euros). I've got a grinding rattle coming from around the the left side of the centre console or near the glove box when I drive on rougher bitumen or higher speeds on highways. Also a strange tapping noise coming from behind me but no idea precisely where lol. I hope the dealer can fix them under warranty on my next service.

[aaronng]

Thanks unity. I'd actually decided not to worry about it as I thought it might be normal. Cheers for the confirmation.

I still need to get some rattles sorted out though (seems to be an unfortunate feature of the euros). I've got a grinding rattle coming from around the the left side of the centre console or near the glove box when I drive on rougher bitumen or higher speeds on highways. Also a strange tapping noise coming from behind me but no idea precisely where lol. I hope the dealer can fix them under warranty on my next service.

Tapping noise is from the rear parcel shelf. A little lithium grease into the correct spot and it disappears for quite a few years. Mine hasn't returned after 4 years. Put some thick lithium grease into the spot with the red arrow and make sure you push it in properly using a blade or a strip of cardboard.

http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/1571/tsxreardeck12oi.jpg

[ticktock]

Tapping noise is from the rear parcel shelf. A little lithium grease into the correct spot and it disappears for quite a few years. Mine hasn't returned after 4 years. Put some thick lithium grease into the spot with the red arrow and make sure you push it in properly using a blade or a strip of cardboard.


Thanks aaronng, I'll give that a go! Though I had a quick look there and am not sure where the tapping noise can be coming from as it all looks and feels quite sturdy. Is it from those two bits of metal moving against each other? Wouldn't expect a tap noise from that..

[aaronng]

Thanks aaronng, I'll give that a go! Though I had a quick look there and am not sure where the tapping noise can be coming from as it all looks and feels quite sturdy. Is it from those two bits of metal moving against each other? Wouldn't expect a tap noise from that..

The spot weld between the sheets of metal is really poor. If you look just between the gap and the trim, you'll the spot weld. Compare the left side with the right side. Left has like one and a half welds, while the right side has two full welds.

Tapping is when it is still mild. At first, I thought it was a loose cable or plug in the roof. It gets worse by changing to stiffer suspension, the tapping turns into a metal creaking sound.

[The X Man]

The spot weld between the sheets of metal is really poor.

The spot welds over the whole fuc*ing car is really poor. I'm struggling to get mine fixed (yes, spot weld issues in the A Frame also).

[power_of_dreams]

Thanks aaronng, I'll give that a go! Though I had a quick look there and am not sure where the tapping noise can be coming from as it all looks and feels quite sturdy. Is it from those two bits of metal moving against each other? Wouldn't expect a tap noise from that..

let me know how you go. I have a tapping from the rear as well, especially over bumps. I thought it might be number plate rattling.

[Type R Positive]

The spot welds over the whole fuc*ing car is really poor. I'm struggling to get mine fixed (yes, spot weld issues in the A Frame also).
Seriously man, why don't you just sell your car and be done with it? :confused:

[tony1234]

The spot welds over the whole fuc*ing car is really poor. I'm struggling to get mine fixed (yes, spot weld issues in the A Frame also).
I can't believe the problems you're having with your car.You need to take your issues up with HA.Your car sounds like a real lemon.

[Ken-f]

According to his other posts on forums, his other cars also have problems. IIRC one of them were an aurion. I think he just has extremely high standards.

[The X Man]

According to his other posts on forums, his other cars also have problems. IIRC one of them were an aurion. I think he just has extremely high standards.

Well if people on here stop raving shit about how good these Honda's are some people wouldn't have as high expectations would they? I bought this car based on what i read here and it was a bad move, let me tell you.

Yes, my car has been back 11 times in a year for warranty work alone and it's still not fixed. You think i spent 40K for that? If you do then your a moron.

Yes, i am pissed off with the car and will never touch another Honda again.

[Type R Positive]

Well if people on here stop raving shit about how good these Honda's are some people wouldn't have as high expectations would they? I bought this car based on what i read here and it was a bad move, let me tell you.
My CU2 is awesome, no probs here. My CL9 was awesome too, which is why I brought my CU2. Viva La Honda! :thumbsup:

Buy a Holden and see what a shit car really is... :zip:

[The X Man]

I can't believe the problems you're having with your car.You need to take your issues up with HA.Your car sounds like a real lemon.

Tried, HA don't give a shit. They have their money and i have a lemon. The dealer is trying hard to fix these issues but just keeps hitting brick walls. It had numerous faults from the day i picked it up brand new and some of those faults are still not fixed.

Yes, i had an Aurion that had numerous faults from the moment i drove it out the showroom and despite it going back as much as the Honda has an engineer from Toyota decided that the car had too many faults and was to be stripped down at Altona to work out why. They settled the situation amicably and professionally to my favour. HA would never do that.

I think i am jinxed when it comes to buying new cars....

[Ken-f]

Well if people on here stop raving shit about how good these Honda's are some people wouldn't have as high expectations would they? ....

Well, thats kinda why I started this thread as well. BEFORE i bought it tho, I was well aware of the major problems like creaking clutch, door actuator etc. All the other problems I had are relatively minor.
Doesn't make me change my mind, that its still a nice car to drive/own. Every car will have a few issues here and there.

[The X Man]

Well, thats kinda why I started this thread as well. BEFORE i bought it tho

Yes, i understand all cars have faults but i did not expect mine to have so many faults so quickly, especially for a so called "quality car". So far it's spent an equivelent of nearly 4 weeks at dealerships getting these issues addressed, and that in the space of it's first year on the road!

[tony1234]

My CU2 is awesome, no probs here. My CL9 was awesome too, which is why I brought my CU2. Viva La Honda! :thumbsup:

Buy a Holden and see what a shit car really is... :zip:
Yeah i agree.My CL9 has been virtually faultless.no squaeks,rattles even though i've got lowered stiffer suspension.slightly off topic,i know of a Honda dealer that bought back a CU2 off a customer because of the pinging issue.It must've been pretty bad.

[buddah51au]

No Problems whatsoever with my CU2, absolutely awesome. There can be issues with any car. I worked at a Merc Dealership for a period & even they have issues with cars that cost 7 times more than a Euro. If your fussy enough you can find issues with any car.

[LXRY]

Hi guys....

my problems till now car just done 100,000klm's :

- Had the drifting to the right issue on a flat surface (k frame adjusted caused another problem).

- Pulls to the right under right camber (never fixed - honda's response "live with it, it's a characteristic of the car, you bought a sports car, it has low profile tyres"...and "we have noted it and if it causes damage we will fix it later on even if it runs out of warranty" - (If you believe that.....:eek:)

- tyres promised never recieved due to wear caused by pulling to the right before k-frame got adjusted and caused right camber problem.

- front passenger pillar rattle (dealer fix not warranty)

- Glove compartment rattle and not aligned properly (never fixed)

- Rattle in front passenger door (never fixed)

- power window switches rattle when music turned up ( Aarong fixed them however after 50,000klm rattle returned).

- Squeaky drivers seat (never fixed)

- pulsating under braking (fixed not warranty)

- rattle right hand vent (fixed itself after 60,000klm)

- rattle column shaft (fixed warranty)

- rattle under glove compartment (never fixed)

- rattle centre console above stereo (never fixed)

- battery replaced after a bit of a fight (warranty).

- Under acceleration bad moisture smell from aircon/heater (dealer masked smell once since then never fixed).

- CV joint (boot) replaced warranty.

- Tint replaced twice due to severe scratching (warranty).

- Rear parcel shelf vibration when music on.

- parking sensors dodgey as f*ck... (never fixed)

- Rear door strap replaced (warranty).

- Auto transmission nob/boot loose fixed (warranty).

- Cd jammed stereo replaced (warranty)

- Rear speaker distortion replaced (warranty)

- sunroof rattle (supposedly fixed, still doing it)

- FULL POWER STEERING RACK replaced due to stationary squeal (warranty)

- knock when braking, accelerating, turning left...this happened after power steering got replaced, this has now been fixed took a while looks like left hand shaft replaced and maybe a few ball joints not sure as was never given documentation. (Got the same response as above "We have noted this and if it causes damage or gets worse we will fix it"....demanded it fixed straight away not later).




I'm expecting more.....40,000 klm's to go till warranty expiration.







Yes, i understand all cars have faults but i did not expect mine to have so many faults so quickly, especially for a so called "quality car". So far it's spent an equivelent of nearly 4 weeks at dealerships getting these issues addressed, and that in the space of it's first year on the road!

Your not alone believe me...this is why honda can't sell their cars. Majority of previous honda owner will not buy honda as they have had quality issues and customer satisfaction issues. I was offered a sh*t trade in price at 70,000klm's. If previous customers are happy they will buy again, just goes to show they not happy !! If anyone doubts me and thinks that it is due to the economy crisis, well european car sales up since crisis and most japanese car dealer (except for the customer satisfaction king, TOYOTA which prides it self to customer satisfaction of course) are down BADLY.

[euro1603]

for people complaining about rattles in there car, for fk sake.. what do you expect, if you had money then buy an audi quality then or better still play some music and stop listening for new rattles in the car.. and i can assure you audis have problems too, my mate is fed up with all the electrical faults and they charge a fortune to fix and this was a brand spanking new 60k car after 4 months.

[euro1603]

Well if people on here stop raving shit about how good these Honda's are some people wouldn't have as high expectations would they? I bought this car based on what i read here and it was a bad move, let me tell you.

Yes, my car has been back 11 times in a year for warranty work alone and it's still not fixed. You think i spent 40K for that? If you do then your a moron.

Yes, i am pissed off with the car and will never touch another Honda again.

mate i'm sorry to hear all the sht that is going down with your car.. you must be very unlucky with new cars.. why would you come to a honda forum where everyone i assume loves their hondas to get reviews on a car that YOU're gonna drive.. buy a second hand car instead..

[revolution]

for people complaining about rattles in there car, for fk sake.. what do you expect, if you had money then buy an audi quality then or better still play some music and stop listening for new rattles in the car.. and i can assure you audis have problems too, my mate is fed up with all the electrical faults and they charge a fortune to fix and this was a brand spanking new 60k car after 4 months.

Couldn't agree more :thumbsup:. You paid just a mere $40K for a Japanese car, not a $100K Mercedes, expect there to be rattles (I have a few when it's cold but all go away once interior is nice and warm). You pay little and expect alot, there is no such thing in this world.

[ozscott]

The newer Jap stuff is tighter inside that many european cars...my new CU2 is by far the tightest inside that I have seen and I have been in quite a few newer BMW's Merc, Audi etc. It simply has NO sounds or shakes.

Cheers

[The X Man]

Hi guys....

my problems till now car just done 100,000klm's :



Sounds like i have had alot of the same problems you have had too. After several attempts they replaced the entire drivers seat and that fixed the problem. Also had the sunroof completely changed in less then a week after buying it because it was cactus. Thats just the start.

As for the front pillar rattle issue, yes, i have been struggling to get this one fixed. It wouldn't be so bad if this "loud cracking" noise that occurs each time you go over a bump was somewhere other then 20cms away from your ears!

For the guy that suggested buy a 2nd hand car next time around - that's exactley what i am going to do - i'm over the new car thing.

[10KRPM]

i agree there are faults with every car.

i had a brand new 99 wrx, shitty clutch and that was about it. Noise was a problem so i had the doors sound deadened.

S15 - 2nd hand with about 23000km. Nothing really bad here but very tinny for what was back then a 40k+ car. Let the gf drive it....she drifted it into a palm tree.

Bought another one...this time a spec r. Gear box was clunky as hell....sold that and moved onto....

Dc2r - This was alvin's old car.....which i sold to him with all the goodies. Treated like a toy ( was a hk students hill climb car before i bought it) Cant really make a comparision on it as it was loaded up to the 9 yards before i got it.....so cant compare it to stock.

Current car - wifes euro cl9 auto lux 05. We bought this brand new and its still going strong. Nothing wrong with it .....almost 80 000km on it and still going strong. Although the leather is starting to peel....might stick electrical tape on that :p

[unity]

i agree there are faults with every car.

My boss drives a CLS 500 and it's constantly plagued with problems, and very expensive problems too.

[ticktock]

The spot weld between the sheets of metal is really poor. If you look just between the gap and the trim, you'll the spot weld. Compare the left side with the right side. Left has like one and a half welds, while the right side has two full welds.

Tapping is when it is still mild. At first, I thought it was a loose cable or plug in the roof. It gets worse by changing to stiffer suspension, the tapping turns into a metal creaking sound.

I know it's been a while but I was going to take a note of all the rattles and ask the dealer to fix them at my next service. I had a go with the lithium grease where you suggested but it didn't seem to help. Well, I actually don't hear that tapping noise any more, probably because another rattle from behind has become more pronounced lol. There's now a fast rattling/fluttering noise coming from the rear on the right side. I liken it to the sound of a moth flapping it's wings against something.. About that speed. Sounds like it's coming from around the right rear passenger door. Sometimes it's even there when the car is on but stationary!

I'm trying to fix some of these myself before the service as I'll be going on a road trip next month and wouldn't mind minimising annoying rattles. Otherwise I'll just turn the radio up ;)

[aaronng]

I know it's been a while but I was going to take a note of all the rattles and ask the dealer to fix them at my next service. I had a go with the lithium grease where you suggested but it didn't seem to help. Well, I actually don't hear that tapping noise any more, probably because another rattle from behind has become more pronounced lol.
Then the lithium grease fix worked.


There's now a fast rattling/fluttering noise coming from the rear on the right side. I liken it to the sound of a moth flapping it's wings against something.. About that speed. Sounds like it's coming from around the right rear passenger door. Sometimes it's even there when the car is on but stationary!

I'm trying to fix some of these myself before the service as I'll be going on a road trip next month and wouldn't mind minimising annoying rattles. Otherwise I'll just turn the radio up ;)

Probably some lose wiring or something behind the door trim vibrating. Is your car stock? A stock Euro shouldn't have vibrations like that.

[ticktock]

Then the lithium grease fix worked.

Probably some lose wiring or something behind the door trim vibrating. Is your car stock? A stock Euro shouldn't have vibrations like that.

Yeah it's stock. I stopped noticing the tapping before I applied the lithium grease. I should get someone else to drive while I get in the back and listen to where exactly this rattle is coming from. I'm not exactly sure it's coming from the door. Could be from the seat, boot area or roof. Problem is it's intermittent, though it seems to be out in force most of the time these days.

[boggyhole]

Your handbrake cable may be too tight. Or you are doing a lot of handbrake turns.
I don't think it is the hand brake as this is a separate drum internal to the rear brake. The rears tend to go first because of the electronic brake distribution (EBD) as it tries to reduce the impact of "lurch" braking by trying to provide even braking to all 4 wheels rather than mostly on the fronts as in the old type vehicles. This is the feeling of the whole bonnet dipping down under heavy braking. The EBD system reduces this, but no one has really thought through the impact on the rear (smaller) brakes. Still the brakes on the Euro is much better than your bog standard crummydore.

[The X Man]

New problem with mine (what else is new?) this time requiring the repalcement of a major driveline component!

[tknova]

New problem with mine (what else is new?) this time requiring the repalcement of a major driveline component!

Wow, you sure have had numerous problems with your euro.. :(

[The X Man]

Wow, you sure have had numerous problems with your euro.. :(

Yep, it's fkn ridiculous, i'm over it.

[boggyhole]

Must be a Friday car :(

[sk3103]

for people complaining about rattles in there car, for fk sake.. what do you expect, if you had money then buy an audi quality then or better still play some music and stop listening for new rattles in the car.. and i can assure you audis have problems too, my mate is fed up with all the electrical faults and they charge a fortune to fix and this was a brand spanking new 60k car after 4 months.

My other half has an 2008 Audi A4. Must say the build quality isn't so outstanding as a good ol' CL9... Had a weird issue with rattling passenger side front headrest however with a bit of forceful bending... all chear. :thumbsup:

[TALEB TYRES]

Has anyone had a problem with the central locking?

the front passenger door wont lock with the remote(you can see it moving down a little then back up but wont lock when button is pressed)

btw this is an 04 euro cl9

[Ken-f]

The issue has been covered about 1000 times. The actuator in there is dead. Not too expensive to replace. Very common issue. (I've got the same, but its intermittent)

[JTR]

Hi guys,

I have a 04 Euro 5sp AT, just under 80k ODO, had it for over 3 months. I have started to notice a low whining noise coming from the engine on the driver side that occurs when I drive between 60-80km, take the foot off the accelerator and then ease it back. Been to a Honda dealer a few times for a major service, change transmission fluid and clean throttle body but the noise is still there. I have been told by mechanics that my tyres are noisy but they think it might be the helical gear or the final gear in the diff, but they are not 100% certain.

Have also notice my coolant reserve has been dropping, and can smell it when I open the hood. Right now I'm confused and just want to find the problem to put my mind at ease :D. Can I ask if anyone has heard of a similar situation or can point me in the right direction in finding this problem?

Sorry I have not been through all 11 pages in this thread

Thanks in advance!

[limleong]

Hi guys,

Have also notice my coolant reserve has been dropping, and can smell it when I open the hood. Right now I'm confused and just want to find the problem to put my mind at ease :D. Can I ask if anyone has heard of a similar situation or can point me in the right direction in finding this problem?

Sorry I have not been through all 11 pages in this thread

Thanks in advance!

JTR,

If you can smell a "sweet smelling" ordour, I suspect it is leaking radiator. Older Honda 1980s and 1990s have a tendency to have radiator leakage somewhere between 80K and 150K km. I would suggest you go to a raidator specialist to check it out ASAP. My old Integra had that problem and needed to have the top radiator tank replaced. It is unusual for your Euro though as it is a reasonably new model.

[JTR]

JTR,

If you can smell a "sweet smelling" ordour, I suspect it is leaking radiator. Older Honda 1980s and 1990s have a tendency to have radiator leakage somewhere between 80K and 150K km. I would suggest you go to a raidator specialist to check it out ASAP. My old Integra had that problem and needed to have the top radiator tank replaced. It is unusual for your Euro though as it is a reasonably new model.

Thanks for the reply limleong. I'll get it checked out tomorrow.

[rambohung]

After reading all the faults you guys have, I think my Euro is not bad. I have a Euro Sport AT almost 90k Km
Problem so far:
1) Fog light didn't work when picking the car up new at dealer
(fixed under Warranty)
2) Rust spots found at bottom left & right corner underneath the rear window after 5000Km
(fixed/re-paint under Warranty)
3) Right front suspension click/creeking sound when car turn right & ride over a small gutter/ditch
(warranty re-torque & re-grease suspension mount, but still didn't work, at the end, replace new mount, fixed)
4) Then it is the Left front suspension creeking sound when doing 3 point turn as the car shifting weight.
(warranty re-torque & re-grease suspension & mount, fixed)
5) A/C whooping sound. Will tell honda on the coming up service

Surprisingly my brake pad still got 60%+
Hope I don't have any more problems

[Phased]

I bought my car at 93,000kms over a year ago and it's currently sitting at about 120,500kms.

I'm very meticulous and anal when it comes to maintenance so I would like to think that what could of been prevented has been.

Actual Problems:
- Passenger Door Lock Actuator (Purchased new from Honda for $176 and installed it myself in about 20 minutes)
- Creaking Clutch (Red Stuff Grease (Similar to HTB) and/or Graphite Powder every oil change - 5000kms)
- Drivers Side Driveshaft (Clicking and Roughness on Highway; Took it out myself sent it off for reconditioning got it back same day and only cost $90 inc. pick-up and delivery), passengers side clicks on occasion and I will be getting that reconditioned next time I get a day off uni/work.
- Smell from Climate Control; particularly when its raining even when the Cabin filter is changed and I've cleaned the intake vents!!! Regardless of Air Conditioning Status.

Minor Quirks/Issues:
- Some interior squeaks depending on road surface quality/speed etc... usually it's quite good though
- Noisy Injectors (typical of K-Series engines; could also be valve lash, which I will be doing next service)
- Long Second Gear, VERY annoying for accelerating unless you're revving out 1st which I don't want to do! and even then it's ordinary.
- True White + Amber cluster isn't complimented by the cheap looking climate control/dash lights (light green/white)

[biee2]

i thought i add to this thread to...hehe

bought my car brand new in 2006

problems so far:
creaking clutch pedal.....(not fixed yet coz honda keep on re-oiling it)
both rear door check straps worned/dried so bad they sound lik a duck quacking when you open the doors (replace under warranty after some negotiations for about 2 weeks)
2 front door actuators are about to die so will need to have then fixed when they die (hopefulli they die out b4 my warranty runs out so i can get it done under warranty)

minor issues:
sometimes after a drive i can smell burn rubber or something....(i dont rip burn outs). pretty sure its my clutch though......

so yeah compared to some of you fellas i have to admit i havent had anything to serious.....and i guess im pretty happy with my car.

my car is close to 45000km on the clock now so yeah not much k's compared to alot of the other euros....will be doin service for her soon =p

[The X Man]

Very lucky! Well with my ongoing saga a Honda engineer came down to Adelaide and we went for a drive and he noted the grinding noise from the left front. Suggested the dealer replace all the bearings in the gearbox but a month later and a week in the workshop the entire gearbox was replaced.

Guess what, the grinding noise is still there, exactley the same as before and to make matters worse when reversing the whine from the gearbox is horrifically loud and the noise stops and starts as you reverse (like a flat spot on a tyre). I have had several people already ask what the noise is when reversing, it's that fu**ing loud!

So after around 17 visits and nearly 6 weeks total the car has been at the dealership we still have problems, all in well under 2yrs.

Yes before you say, i am looking for a new car now as i have had it but it won't be another fu**ing piece of shit Honda!

[Phased]

Very lucky! Well with my ongoing saga a Honda engineer came down to Adelaide and we went for a drive and he noted the grinding noise from the left front. Suggested the dealer replace all the bearings in the gearbox but a month later and a week in the workshop the entire gearbox was replaced.

Guess what, the grinding noise is still there, exactley the same as before and to make matters worse when reversing the whine from the gearbox is horrifically loud and the noise stops and starts as you reverse (like a flat spot on a tyre). I have had several people already ask what the noise is when reversing, it's that fu**ing loud!

So after around 17 visits and nearly 6 weeks total the car has been at the dealership we still have problems, all in well under 2yrs.

Yes before you say, i am looking for a new car now as i have had it but it won't be another fu**ing piece of shit Honda!

There are always going to be cars out of the entire production that suffer serious problems. You should consider yourself lucky... The VZ/VY commodores had an oil pump issue that led to Oil Starvation and engine seizure if it wasn't fixed... Serious Throttle problems in toyota's, BMW's (not the newest models) had a serious tailshaft and steering rack issue that wasn't covered under warranties etc... all of which are Serious, Common problems...

No one knows exactly how you treat that car, even assuming you treat it perfectly... Who's to say one of the mechanics that serviced it put the wrong fluid in the transmission... changed something and didn't put it back together properly or used the incorrect part... That's why I service my car myself...

My car hasn't been trouble-free... but it always starts and always drives nice... Never stopped me
from getting from A to B.

When does this grinding happen? Has your Outer CV Joint been replaced/inspected?

[The X Man]

I treat and look after the car well, even the dealer and engineer commented on its overall condition. That said the noise isn't CV related, it comes and goes depending on the load the engine is under and with throttle response and any given speed.

[tony1234]

I treat and look after the car well, even the dealer and engineer commented on its overall condition. That said the noise isn't CV related, it comes and goes depending on the load the engine is under and with throttle response and any given speed.

I feel sorry for you.Your car sounds like its a piece of shit.My car is the opposite.66000kms.No problems,tight as a drum,no rattles,even with Eibach/Bilsteins on it and running 40 PSI.Not much you can do but keep on Hondas case to fix it.Good luck.

[lingamair]

Just wondering, does any CU2 owner have a problem with the fuel door sticking and refusing to open?

[aaronng]

Just wondering, does any CU2 owner have a problem with the fuel door sticking and refusing to open?
I've seen this on 3 CL9's. If you look at the inside of the fuel door, there is a little metal tab that is supposed to spring against the body. Sometimes that tab can get bent too much towards the fuel door. Just bend it back towards the body slightly and the door should spring open again.

[Simonnn]

I've had my 04 CL9 for a little over a year now and have had no problems at all, until a few days ago when the sunroof suddenly started making rattling sounds! (I've done a search and it seems to be a somewhat common problem, makes the same sound as a box with screws in it and you start moving the box around). However, it just stopped rattling the other day.. very weird.

[felixd]

hmm most of the problems here r the lux model :(

[Phased]

I don't think that the problems are related to the model. :P

The problems (excluding the sunroof, and fog lights) are capable of effecting all models. I just think Luxury's are more common among enthusiasts. When you look at the price difference... The luxury is very good value. Sunroof, HID's, Fog-lights, Heated Seats, Leather Trim, Larger Rims(thus wider tyres), Electric Seats, Extra Two+ airbags (earlier models) & Rain Sensor Wipers; all for around $7k... not bad.

[biee2]

I feel sorry for you.Your car sounds like its a piece of shit.My car is the opposite.66000kms.No problems,tight as a drum,no rattles,even with Eibach/Bilsteins on it and running 40 PSI.Not much you can do but keep on Hondas case to fix it.Good luck.

pwoahhh 40psi....isnt that abit hard? i have mine on 36psi and i can feel every bump on the road....hehehe i was planning to increase it but im scared my tired gonna explode in my face or something =p i actuallli lik the firm ride but sometimes my passengers dont

[aaronng]

pwoahhh 40psi....isnt that abit hard? i have mine on 36psi and i can feel every bump on the road....hehehe i was planning to increase it but im scared my tired gonna explode in my face or something =p i actuallli lik the firm ride but sometimes my passengers dont
It won't explode. What tyres and rim size are you using? Tony1234 has great Continental tyres, which probably absorb the bumps much much better compared to the cheaper brands/model of tyres. My Bridgestone RE001 used together with coilovers have a limit of about 36 psi. If I go to 38 psi cold, then the upper pillowball mounts rattle very badly.

[ORLANDO]

I have had on my 2006 lux:
- front discs machined at 25K kms
- new engine block due to porous block
- brake master cylinder leak

other than that, no ratlles, tight as, only 40K kms, now looking at lowering it with Eibach prokit with ingalls rear camber kit...

[biee2]

It won't explode. What tyres and rim size are you using? Tony1234 has great Continental tyres, which probably absorb the bumps much much better compared to the cheaper brands/model of tyres. My Bridgestone RE001 used together with coilovers have a limit of about 36 psi. If I go to 38 psi cold, then the upper pillowball mounts rattle very badly.

i have stock 16inch wheels with tires that came with the car when i bought them....sp sport i think they are. there starting to wear after 3+ years now so will be needing some new ones soon. hopefulli can save up enough to get new rims and tires by the time current ones are no loonger any good =]

[phantom_civic]

how did your gearbox fail? i have an 03, and it makes this click from underneath the car wen i take off..
is this a concern?
cheers

[aaronng]

i have stock 16inch wheels with tires that came with the car when i bought them....sp sport i think they are. there starting to wear after 3+ years now so will be needing some new ones soon. hopefulli can save up enough to get new rims and tires by the time current ones are no loonger any good =]

3 years on the SP Sport is good. I only got 1 year. :p

Between rims and tyres, if you are forced to pick either rims and cheap tyres or good tyres alone, I would go for good tyres.

[sk3103]

Looking at most of the replies, I guess my CL9 is doing a good job. So far I had...

- Failed Drive Belt Tensioner
- Rattle from front passenger side headrest
- Faulty rear parking sensor (Replaced with new one under warranty)

[Brendon]

Hi guys, new member, new CU2 Lux Black.

Car went in for 1 month free service today. First significant problem to report is the auto headlights.

Headlights come on when it is dark but the stalk is in the "off" position - not normal.
Headlights come on when it is dark and the stalk is in the "Auto" position (fine), but the dashboard and internal control lights don't come on - not normal.

Long story short, the car needs to spend the whole day at the dealer shortly so they can figure out what's going on. Dealer reckons that they've never seen this issue before and it could be a faulty relay or poor wiring.

Anyone else experienced or heard of this problem?

[biee2]

3 years on the SP Sport is good. I only got 1 year. :p

Between rims and tyres, if you are forced to pick either rims and cheap tyres or good tyres alone, I would go for good tyres.

yeah same i would go tires....planning to get some decent grippy tires when i have to replace mine, i hate it when i take of at the lights from a stationary position and then lose traction on the painted line lol its so annoyinggg =.="

[anfernee0525]

Never get a red euro.
They have a paint fault on it.
If you 're lucky enough to notice before your paint protection expires( 3 years)
You will get a free respray.
Otherwise good luck mate.. your car will become pink in5-7 years.

[limleong]

Hi guys, new member, new CU2 Lux Black.

Car went in for 1 month free service today. First significant problem to report is the auto headlights.

Headlights come on when it is dark but the stalk is in the "off" position - not normal.
Headlights come on when it is dark and the stalk is in the "Auto" position (fine), but the dashboard and internal control lights don't come on - not normal.

Long story short, the car needs to spend the whole day at the dealer shortly so they can figure out what's going on. Dealer reckons that they've never seen this issue before and it could be a faulty relay or poor wiring.

Anyone else experienced or heard of this problem?

Brendon,

This is a very uncommon problem for Honda. Honda is generally pretty robust with electrical/electronic parts/operations unlike European cars (Audi, BMW) which are commonly plagued with electrincal problems only after 1 - 2 years. My gut feel is the electronic control module for the light has gone bad somehow.

[Brendon]

Thanks limleong. We'll wait and see what happens.

On the plus side, I washed the car for the first time on the weekend. I forgot how good the metalic paint looks when it sparkles especially with my dark tint. It's a great looking car.

[biee2]

recently i took my euro to the dealer to have my sqeaking clutch as many of you guys kno about this problem. now this is not the first time i have bought the car to them with this problem, but every time i bring the car in honda just re-oil the clutch and it would come bak lik in about 2 months or so. well this time they said they pulled out the master cylinder and regreased the inside of it. any one has has the same thing done? coz im wandering how long this will last.....honda refuses to replace my master cylinder =[

[drezy]

my car is 03 euro... 140k + milage.. recently had driveshafts re-co'd as car was vibrating like crazy when accelerating.... my mechanic charged $600 to re-co but i think honda will replace and that would be at least $2k ?

[Ken-f]

biee2, I have similar situation (like many others). I put silicone spray. worked a treat the first time, but its almost as if it is 'immune' now. I'm thinking if i should try some grease which is a lot thicker and hopefully can last longer....not sure tho

[biee2]

biee2, I have similar situation (like many others). I put silicone spray. worked a treat the first time, but its almost as if it is 'immune' now. I'm thinking if i should try some grease which is a lot thicker and hopefully can last longer....not sure tho

mine got quite bad the first time....was full on QUACK QUACK QUACK every time i use the clutch, everytime i drop of my car i sit outside near some trees to wait for my bro to pick me up and i see them take my car in and then out in lik 5 mins =.=" and then i get a msg its done...lol and my bro not even arrived yet to take me home. but yeah it onli last about 1 month b4 it comes bak....sometimes it sqeaks sometimes it doesnt, it has mood swings lol. but yeah 2 months and it will be sqeaking 24/7.
coz my car still has warranty but gonna expire soon...i wander how much they gonna charge me when i have no more warranty =[

[aaronng]

mine got quite bad the first time....was full on QUACK QUACK QUACK every time i use the clutch, everytime i drop of my car i sit outside near some trees to wait for my bro to pick me up and i see them take my car in and then out in lik 5 mins =.=" and then i get a msg its done...lol and my bro not even arrived yet to take me home. but yeah it onli last about 1 month b4 it comes bak....sometimes it sqeaks sometimes it doesnt, it has mood swings lol. but yeah 2 months and it will be sqeaking 24/7.
coz my car still has warranty but gonna expire soon...i wander how much they gonna charge me when i have no more warranty =[

Is it squeaking from the pedal area or from the engine bay (transmission) area? For the pedal area, use the silicone spray. I have had my master cylinder replaced 2 times and the sound will come back. It is probably a lube issue with the master cylinder (not sure who the manufacturer is). If the creak is coming from the engine bay, then that is the clutch release fork and it is difficult to lube (probably impossible) in our cars.

[Ken-f]

biee2, exactly same haha. It comes and goes randomly as well. If i dont drive for a while, its gone (for a while) yesterday it was fine. Really nice, no squeek at all. Lets see how i go this morning.

[eurogo]

hey, new here lol, i have an 05 euro luxury, originally bought from the same dealer i bought it off, has always been serviced there also. i cant fault it at all to be honest, ive had a civic also and never had one problem with the civic, bar the clutch slipping and needing replacement. love my hondas haha

[biee2]

Is it squeaking from the pedal area or from the engine bay (transmission) area? For the pedal area, use the silicone spray. I have had my master cylinder replaced 2 times and the sound will come back. It is probably a lube issue with the master cylinder (not sure who the manufacturer is). If the creak is coming from the engine bay, then that is the clutch release fork and it is difficult to lube (probably impossible) in our cars.

its comming from the pedal....not from the engine bay. i have tried to lube it myself using silicon spray with the long tube thing and sticking it into the hole with the clutch half pressed down but it normally onli stays quite for lik 2 weeks when i do it...sometimes not even 2 weeks =.=" thinking i need to realli shovel that stick into the hole and give it a good squirt....lmao sounds corny hahaha but yeah atm its been a couple of weeks and its been sweet.....nice smooth clutch is the best feeling....expecialli after putting up with the squeeky one.

[aaronng]

its comming from the pedal....not from the engine bay. i have tried to lube it myself using silicon spray with the long tube thing and sticking it into the hole with the clutch half pressed down but it normally onli stays quite for lik 2 weeks when i do it...sometimes not even 2 weeks =.=" thinking i need to realli shovel that stick into the hole and give it a good squirt....lmao sounds corny hahaha but yeah atm its been a couple of weeks and its been sweet.....nice smooth clutch is the best feeling....expecialli after putting up with the squeeky one.
I spray only a little bit. After spraying it, you need to pump the clutch pedal many times to distribute the lube. Sometimes I will also spray a 2nd time after pumping the pedal the first time. If you do it properly, it will take care of the problem for a few months. If it still comes back really quickly, then the seals could already have been damaged and you will need to replace the clutch master cylinder.