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View Full Version : Is it easy to do a auto trans flush on CD5



repeated_love
01-07-2009, 09:13 PM
Is it easy to do a auto transmission change and/or flush on a 1994 Honda Accord EXi ?

A mate says it would be as easy as unscrewing the plug from the bottim and pouring in more from the plug at the top, once you've found the part. f course this is based on a Magna.

The mechs want $150 to do a change.

Jarkz
02-07-2009, 05:32 PM
I'm not sure if auto cd5's have a trans filter in the auto's or not?

I would be replacing that also, but your mate is right regarding trans fluid replacement.

CB7_OWNER
02-07-2009, 07:54 PM
Dont think there is a filter.. there is a bolt near your front right driver side, the bolt requires a sqaure socket i believe, thing like the end of your wrench ( but a mechanical grade), when you see the bolt you will understand, let the fluid drain, and poor some in.yeh think dats about it. easy

ECU-MAN
07-07-2009, 01:59 PM
no filter on the CD5 AT, clean the magnet on the drain bolt as well.

only use honda ATF

hectic_filo
16-07-2009, 12:17 PM
I wanted to flush mine too, I got it service before bcoz my D4 started flashing and all it need was a fluid flush, and it cost $150... I had a look under the car and i cannot tell which 1 is the drain plug, i thought its similar to the oil but yea.

aaronng
16-07-2009, 12:27 PM
The drain plug is on the side of the auto trans case (driver's side wheel well). Not underneath.

Use a 3/8" square drive breaker bar to loosen it. On our CD4, it was so tight that a ratchet was not enough. Had to cut out a 3/8" fitting and rod from solid steel because we didn't have a 3/8" breaker bar.

hectic_filo
16-07-2009, 12:40 PM
The drain plug is on the side of the auto trans case (driver's side wheel well). Not underneath.

Use a 3/8" square drive breaker bar to loosen it. On our CD4, it was so tight that a ratchet was not enough. Had to cut out a 3/8" fitting and rod from solid steel because we didn't have a 3/8" breaker bar.

thanks for the info m8:thumbsup: ill have a look this weekend and buy trans auto fluid too..

aaronng
16-07-2009, 01:38 PM
thanks for the info m8:thumbsup: ill have a look this weekend and buy trans auto fluid too..

Check the volume needed to do an auto trans fluid change on your car Overfilling or underfilling can cause problems. It has to be spot on and the level has to be checked when the gearbox at a certain temperature.

hectic_filo
16-07-2009, 02:01 PM
Check the volume needed to do an auto trans fluid change on your car Overfilling or underfilling can cause problems. It has to be spot on and the level has to be checked when the gearbox at a certain temperature.

thanks for the extra info aaronng.. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

FAT VTI
22-07-2009, 11:22 AM
The drain plug is on the side of the auto trans case (driver's side wheel well). Not underneath.

Use a 3/8" square drive breaker bar to loosen it. On our CD4, it was so tight that a ratchet was not enough. Had to cut out a 3/8" fitting and rod from solid steel because we didn't have a 3/8" breaker bar.

Couldnt use a cheater bar?

aaronng
22-07-2009, 11:26 AM
Couldnt use a cheater bar?

Nope, the ratchet was twisting (3/8 ratchet is not that thick), so we decided not to break it. Had the tool fabricated from steel and that worked with a cheater bar. Whoever did the auto trans fluid change at the dealer must have tightened it up with a cheater bar! This was years ago before I had my proper tool set for working on cars.

hectic_filo
23-07-2009, 08:21 AM
Nope, the ratchet was twisting (3/8 ratchet is not that thick), so we decided not to break it. Had the tool fabricated from steel and that worked with a cheater bar. Whoever did the auto trans fluid change at the dealer must have tightened it up with a cheater bar! This was years ago before I had my proper tool set for working on cars.


cheater bar ey?? can any one show me a foto.. :confused:

aaronng
23-07-2009, 08:37 AM
cheater bar ey?? can any one show me a foto.. :confused:

It's just a hollow metal pipe of about 1m long which you put over your ratchet to get more leverage. It's a cheap alternative to using a 3/8" breaker bar.

hectic_filo
23-07-2009, 08:51 AM
It's just a hollow metal pipe of about 1m long which you put over your ratchet to get more leverage. It's a cheap alternative to using a 3/8" breaker bar.


I know what your talking bout i just dnt know the name of the tool now i know.. i know how it looks like though ahaha :D

repeated_love
23-07-2009, 03:52 PM
How do you find out the correct level of ATF required? I rang Honda and they said 3.5 litres. My car is a 94 Honda Accord EXi auto. 2.2 litre engine.

BTW yes there is a DIY guide on OzHonda to change fluid but it is for manual and I thought i would ask a few more specific questions. The guide says you will need a silicon tube to fill the fluid up again, pass it through the engine bay. Also you would have to lower the car again to check fluid levels.

So what does the ATF service kit contain? I thought there is a small filter screen like a mesh strainer, do I buy this OEM from Honda or do other stores sell it?

Also I have never done a ATF change but some people recommend it every 40.000km. i have been holding off as well because I believe my gears may be slipping or something is wrong but 2 mechanics say it is fine nothing wrong. The car revs and then just drops back and they say this is what the Honda engine does, especially when turning a corner if I slightly press the accelerate before straighting up the revs soar then drop.

aaronng
23-07-2009, 04:37 PM
How do you find out the correct level of ATF required? I rang Honda and they said 3.5 litres. My car is a 94 Honda Accord EXi auto. 2.2 litre engine.

BTW yes there is a DIY guide on OzHonda to change fluid but it is for manual and I thought i would ask a few more specific questions. The guide says you will need a silicon tube to fill the fluid up again, pass it through the engine bay. Also you would have to lower the car again to check fluid levels.

So what does the ATF service kit contain? I thought there is a small filter screen like a mesh strainer, do I buy this OEM from Honda or do other stores sell it?

Also I have never done a ATF change but some people recommend it every 40.000km. i have been holding off as well because I believe my gears may be slipping or something is wrong but 2 mechanics say it is fine nothing wrong. The car revs and then just drops back and they say this is what the Honda engine does, especially when turning a corner if I slightly press the accelerate before straighting up the revs soar then drop.

You can't access the mesh strainer without taking apart the auto gearbox.

You don't need silicone tube. You need a funnel as you will be filling up through the ATF dip stick hole. You check the level by filling the new fluid in by the same amount that you removed. Put the dip stick back on. Then start the car and move from P to R to N to D and then back up again. Keep doing that a few times slowly. Then shut the car off, check the level using the dipstick and add more if required. I can't remember if you do this with a cold gearbox or with a hot gearbox. Check the Hayne's service manual for this.

Change your fluid often. If that internal mesh strainer blocks up from the clutch pack wearing prematurely from the ATF change interval being too long, then you will have to open the box up the replace the clutch pack and strainer. Not an easy feat seeing that the dealer tried to do that with my dad's CD4 and stuffed up twice. The 3rd time worked, but the box had the same problem with premature wear after another 12 months. So he got a box from a halfcut and had no problems for years after that since

repeated_love
25-07-2009, 02:21 AM
How do I track this thread?

I can't find it in my UAC.

Also I can't access Haynes service manual can someone scan me <10&#37; of it so that it doesn't constitute plagarism.

My brother said the dipstick itself says hot on it so possibly hot?

Also you can't possibly judge how much ATF it requires based on what pours out due to some fluid being lost from friction, evap etc.

Plan to go to Honda this morning to buy 4L bottle as that works out cheaper than the 1L bottles.

BTW the other thread I checked was

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35408&highlight=transmission+fluid

DIY write up just a bit hard for this noob to navigate this site : )

aaronng
25-07-2009, 06:00 AM
How do I track this thread?

I can't find it in my UAC.
It will be in User CP once you subscribe to this thread through Thread tools.


Also I can't access Haynes service manual can someone scan me <10&#37; of it so that it doesn't constitute plagarism.
You can buy one from Supercheap Auto tomorrow since they have 20% off storewide. If you plan to keep your CD5, the manual will be useful for many other things.


My brother said the dipstick itself says hot on it so possibly hot?
Then measure when hot. But you must put in the same amount that you took out.


Also you can't possibly judge how much ATF it requires based on what pours out due to some fluid being lost from friction, evap etc.
You check the level that is in the gearbox now through the dipstick without warming the gearbox up. It should read lower than the hot level. Drain and fill back with the same amount. Do the P, R, N, D, N, R, P, etc thing and then turn the engine off. Let it settle for a few minutes and measure at the dip stick. It should show the same level as you had before you started the fluid change. If it is at the same level, then go out for a 15 to 20 minute drive until the gearbox is hot. Then come back, let the fluid settle and then measure at the dipstick again. Top up until the hot line.

repeated_love
26-07-2009, 12:32 AM
Did the ATF change and it was at the upper level in P but after driving I had the car running and checked it while in D (with hand brake on). The fluid level was half so I topped it up and I think this is incorrect because now in P it is way over.

Can I syphon out the excess from the dip stick hole or do I have to drain it out again form the drain plug?

Will this damage the car instantly because now I need to drive to get the parts I need?

j.meng87
26-07-2009, 10:17 PM
Drain out the excess fluid as soon as possible as it wouldnt damage the transmission instantly but if left for a long term it would.

For future reference, honda workshop manual says to check the level after it reach normal operating temperature, with the car on ground level and engine off

I have a pdf file of the workshop manual, if you want a copy send me a pm

repeated_love
26-07-2009, 10:26 PM
I read a pdf manual for a 2 door Accord CD5 and found the section on ATF.

Yes you are correct that it says to test at normal operating temperature (when fan turns on) - do they mean fan turns on while driving or when parked and fan turns on? I don't fully understand.

Also it is not mentioned but I assume they mean test when the car is turned off and in PARK.

Well I went to Supercheap and brought a siphon filter and have been sucking out the excess fluid and making a mess of things. However I can't determine what level the ATF is at because the dip stick has fluid all over it and aove the upper notch.

j.meng87
26-07-2009, 10:48 PM
check after normal operating temperature (fan turns on) basically means drive the car around approx 10-15min or just park the car on your driveway and let it idle until the radiator fan turn on and off cycle twice before you off the car. If your following the second method, make sure you DONT turn on the A/C.

YES you turn off the car and leave it in park to check the fluid level.

Its better to drain the ATF fluid out and refill it than to siphon it out, once drain add 2L first then insert the dipstick in and check the level remember to wipe the dipstick clean of oil before doing the check (you dont have to start and reach normal operating temp) and slowly add until it reach the top notch.

Should be adding a total of 2.4-2.5L of ATF. Only after this you should follow the normal operating temp method to check the level. If it low then add little bit of ATF each time. Its always easier to add fluid than remove.

repeated_love
27-07-2009, 09:54 PM
OK drained the fluid again and put it back in with a funnel. The fluid was very murky does this tell me that my auto transmission is very dirty? I know there is the argument that if you run/flush anything through you may dislodge carbon etc and it may clog up the wire mesh filter.

Anyway I ended up putting back about 2.4L but am still not convinced I have done it right because after getting the car up to operating temperature (2 x fan cycles) the dip stick had fluid above the upper notch. But I give up and will have to settle for roughly 2.5L of ATF. Maybe I will check it agan perhaps the shaft has fluid all over it still.