Diff Rebuild - S2000

[BaSsMaXiMuS]

OK! This is my second diff now.

Yesterday I heard a knocking sound coming from the rear whilst driving up my driveway. I took the car to Hanny's today and my worst fear was confirmed. My diff is about to die.

Now... I have spare diff, I want to rebuild it. I was told that the gears may be OK still. All will be revealed tomorrow when I drop off the spare diff. If the gears need to be changed this will cost $1500.

I would like to rebuild this diff and perhaps improve it's strength. Are there any areas that I could beef up, improve?

Any suggestions are welcome.

[jaeyon]

if the gears are ok what exactly has gone in your diff?

[BaSsMaXiMuS]

Peter from Hanny's has to open up the housing to inspect my spare diff to really find out what is wrong. It started to humm so I changed it asap as this is my daily car, I couldn't afford to have it off the road.

Not too sure what else could go wrong with the diff apart from the gearing?!?

[-MuGen PoWer-]

What are the signs to look out for when the diff is about to go? knocking?
How can this be prevented?

[ludecrs]

I would like to rebuild this diff and perhaps improve it's strength. Are there any areas that I could beef up, improve?

Any suggestions are welcome.



Stage 1 PuddyMod diff is the answer you seek.

Hit up s2ki.com vendor PuddyMod. Not cheap, but will certainly solve your problems.

[JAP-S2K]

I reckon your driving your S like a silvia. I did the same years ago when i thought S2000's would make a great drift car. Change your driving style or seriously look into changing to a Nissan R200 diff. Diff technics do a kit. Might be a cheap option in the long run.

[Ferrari]

I was thinking when will you blow your diff, when you dropped it out of the car park lol. Oh well.

[mr_vtec]

ohh so drifting aint good on s2k diffs :| lol

[jooboo]

my s2k makes a click in the rear too...when i reverse, going forward, during gear changes and changes in direction...doesnt always happen but it does happen occasioanlly...anyone kno what it is?

[JAP-S2K]

my s2k makes a click in the rear too...when i reverse, going forward, during gear changes and changes in direction...doesnt always happen but it does happen occasioanlly...anyone kno what it is?

Check creaking sound thread. Might help your cause.

[BaSsMaXiMuS]

Stage 1 PuddyMod diff is the answer you seek.

Hit up s2ki.com vendor PuddyMod. Not cheap, but will certainly solve your problems.

Thanks mate, will have a look.

[BaSsMaXiMuS]

I reckon your driving your S like a silvia. I did the same years ago when i thought S2000's would make a great drift car. Change your driving style or seriously look into changing to a Nissan R200 diff. Diff technics do a kit. Might be a cheap option in the long run.

Yeah, I think my driving style has something to do with the premature wear. However I seldom dump the clutch just tend to take off quickly, but I guess through progression this outcome was going to eventuate.

[BaSsMaXiMuS]

I was thinking when will you blow your diff, when you dropped it out of the car park lol. Oh well.

LOL - A lot sooner that you thought I bet, I was surprised too :p

[BaSsMaXiMuS]

I have dropped off my spare diff at Peter's, awaiting feedback. I might get the two diffs reco'ed and sell them, then look at into getting something stronger, this move is going to open up a whole can of worms!! Eeeeek

[eriktufa]

Might as well put new lsd and gear while doing that.

[JAP-S2K]

Bass have you broken any driveshafts yet, as they usually don't last very long under abusive conditions.

[stndrd]

just remember tho that if you are going to change the diff ratio and will be fitting it to your daily, that you will have to go and get your speedo re-calibrated so that it aint reading 80 wen your doing 120 etc.

lsd wise, just throw a cusco type RS 1.5 way in and you will have no problems at all :D

[Ferrari]

he already has a altered diff ratio.

[BaSsMaXiMuS]

Bass have you broken any driveshafts yet, as they usually don't last very long under abusive conditions.

No, I haven't - We initially thought it was the drive shaft due to the sound that was coming from the rear whilst driving. Upon closer inspection this was ruled out.

[BaSsMaXiMuS]

just remember tho that if you are going to change the diff ratio and will be fitting it to your daily, that you will have to go and get your speedo re-calibrated so that it aint reading 80 wen your doing 120 etc.

lsd wise, just throw a cusco type RS 1.5 way in and you will have no problems at all :D


I have 1.44 Ratio. I had to get Modifry "yellow jacket" speed calib module to change the speed settings. Cheapest option atm.

[SHOGUNOVDDRK]

Good luck with the rebuild man

[JMSBND]

Chuck a 9" in it.............................lol

[BaSsMaXiMuS]

Good luck with the rebuild man

Thanx mate :p

[BaSsMaXiMuS]

Chuck a 9" in it.............................lol

.....and upset my wonderful weight distribution, hehe

Maybe a 9" up back and V8 up front will equate to perfect wd. muahah :cool:

[SHOGUNOVDDRK]

Actually 9" diff's are extremely popular with the Silvia boys and would probably be more suited for skidpan action.....

Anyway, If you've got pics of the blown diff i'd appreciate them :p

*looks for a written off S2000 to turn into a pig*

[JAP-S2K]

I have 1.44 Ratio. I had to get Modifry "yellow jacket" speed calib module to change the speed settings. Cheapest option atm.

Do you mean 4.11?

[ludecrs]

I think he meant 4.44.

Isnt the stock ratio 4.10? LOL

[BaSsMaXiMuS]

Yes, typo. it's 4.44

[BaSsMaXiMuS]

I think he meant 4.44.

Isnt the stock ratio 4.10? LOL

Yeah stock is 4.10

Know any one with 4.77's? Might be to tall with hwy driving.

[ludecrs]

Everyone I know runs the 4.56 / 4.57R's

[JAP-S2K]

Yeah 4.777's are the bomb. Can get annoying though on long trips.

[JMSBND]

Yeah 4.777's are the bomb. Can get annoying though on long trips.

I am going 4.77 I think. Apparently best way to get NA S2000 to get up and go.

[JAP-S2K]

def one of the best bang for buck if your considering tracking vehicle. It feels heaps quicker, but sadly in a straight line accel there's very little difference over factory ratio's, but then again who cares about straight line speed. 4.7's are for the track.

[9large]

Well in fact, it's in a straight line where you'll notice the difference between different FD ratios, the most and quite apparently.

As an example, see this Youtube clip comparing a stock vs 4.57:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89rGbTbFfKs

On any particular track, one ratio may not suit as well as others. For instance, a 4.77 FD may require you to shift gears more often than the stock FD - particularly mid-corner - on tracks with longer corners or sweepers. More time spent shifting gears means more time spent not accelerating, which may also affect the balance of the car and smootheness of your lap. Whereas on a tight track, the 4.77's may suit more than the 4.1's, allowing you to gain speed quicker between corners without being penalised too much for extra shifts. Naturally, the more power you have, the lower the FD you can get away with. For NA, 4.44 is generally considered the best compromise for track-work.

Basically, the right gearing at the track depends on several factors.

[BaSsMaXiMuS]

Well in fact, it's in a straight line where you'll notice the difference between different FD ratios, the most and quite apparently.

As an example, see this Youtube clip comparing a stock vs 4.57:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89rGbTbFfKs

On any particular track, one ratio may not suit as well as others. For instance, a 4.77 FD may require you to shift gears more often than the stock FD - particularly mid-corner - on tracks with longer corners or sweepers. More time spent shifting gears means more time spent not accelerating, which may also affect the balance of the car and smootheness of your lap. Whereas on a tight track, the 4.77's may suit more than the 4.1's, allowing you to gain speed quicker between corners without being penalised too much for extra shifts. Naturally, the more power you have, the lower the FD you can get away with. For NA, 4.44 is generally considered the best compromise for track-work.

Basically, the right gearing at the track depends on several factors.


I thing that even the 4.57 ratio is a good compromise. I would like to look into this gear set. Where would be a good place to enquire? Or can anyone lead a horse to the source??

[jaeyon]

I thing that even the 4.57 ratio is a good compromise. I would like to look into this gear set. Where would be a good place to enquire? Or can anyone lead a horse to the source??

from what ive found there are currently no suppliers for 4.56 gears anymore. however i believe you can get them from an mx5 (through mazda)?

i purchased the 4.44 gear from gtmotoring. 4.77s are fun but will be too short if you do highway and is probably more so suited to quite short tracks like wakefield

[9large]

I thing that even the 4.57 ratio is a good compromise. I would like to look into this gear set. Where would be a good place to enquire? Or can anyone lead a horse to the source??

Unfortunately, the 4.56 and it's strengthened, re-engineered variant - the 4.57 - are no longer available. They were a limited run of FDs from Richmond Gears in the US (commissioned by Rick's Accessories). Your best bet would be to wait for a nice set to appear on the 2nd-hand market (most likely on s2ki) if you are after the 4.56/4.57.

Otherwise, you can source a Mazda 4.44. I think a few aftermarket tuners make them (like J's Racing). The 4.77, of course, is available through Kia.

[WhiteAP1]

Well in fact, it's in a straight line where you'll notice the difference between different FD ratios, the most and quite apparently.

As an example, see this Youtube clip comparing a stock vs 4.57:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89rGbTbFfKs

On any particular track, one ratio may not suit as well as others. For instance, a 4.77 FD may require you to shift gears more often than the stock FD - particularly mid-corner - on tracks with longer corners or sweepers. More time spent shifting gears means more time spent not accelerating, which may also affect the balance of the car and smootheness of your lap. Whereas on a tight track, the 4.77's may suit more than the 4.1's, allowing you to gain speed quicker between corners without being penalised too much for extra shifts. Naturally, the more power you have, the lower the FD you can get away with. For NA, 4.44 is generally considered the best compromise for track-work.

Basically, the right gearing at the track depends on several factors.

All this sounds awfully familiar ;)

[drsilliez]

sorry to hijack, but since we're talking abt gears etc is there any sites/links etc you guys know to learn about gear ratios and stuff. i have no idea what gear ratios mean, whats good, whats bad etc.... thanks

[9large]

All this sounds awfully familiar ;)

I know... this appears to be a common topic across different forums :)

[BaSsMaXiMuS]

lOl at your glass diff :P

my mate has been through 3 diffs in his s2k but i guess thats what happens when you drive it like every street light is a quarter mile :P

lOl sorry, I hope it's all fixed and for doesnt happen again!!

ps did this happen when I seen yoO at hanny's that time??

Thanks, I hope it's all fixed too. At the moment the noise is getting worse, I have a funny feeling that I am going to be broken down in the middle of rush hour traffic.

Peter was installing the diff for me when I saw you last time. This is the second time it's broken. :thumbdwn:

Did you sell your car?

[BaSsMaXiMuS]

Unfortunately, the 4.56 and it's strengthened, re-engineered variant - the 4.57 - are no longer available. They were a limited run of FDs from Richmond Gears in the US (commissioned by Rick's Accessories). Your best bet would be to wait for a nice set to appear on the 2nd-hand market (most likely on s2ki) if you are after the 4.56/4.57.

Otherwise, you can source a Mazda 4.44. I think a few aftermarket tuners make them (like J's Racing). The 4.77, of course, is available through Kia.

Thanks fre the input. I will investigate this option a little further along the line. :thumbsup:

[WhiteAP1]

I know... this appears to be a common topic across different forums :)

True, i reckon ive posted that video and explained the same thing about 100 times since i got my 4.77 FD about 3 years ago.

[dwn_boi]

why is it that so many s2k's diffs break lol i just kept bagging my mate out calling him glass diff, maybe it was all that rev dumping he was doing?

Edited by ludecrs: Spam removed.

[BaSsMaXiMuS]

why is it that so many s2k's diffs break lol i just kept bagging my mate out calling him glass diff, maybe it was all that rev dumping he was doing?

From what I have been reading the diff is weak, but I think it has a lot to do with the way you drive it, I am going to contradict my self here because I usually drive the car with care. I V-tec it alot but don't thrash it.

Edited By Ludecrs: Spam removed from quote.

[ludecrs]

Guys, thread cleaned up.

2 warnings given (call me soft :p).

Just keep it relatively on topic okayyyyy

[F20C]

isnt it just the pinon which is weak in the s2000 diff? even if you did thrash it bass.. their track cars.. their diffs are made to last on track.. so really aslong as your not rev dumping or going sideways your diff would be fine?

[WhiteAP1]

isnt it just the pinon which is weak in the s2000 diff? even if you did thrash it bass.. their track cars.. their diffs are made to last on track.. so really aslong as your not rev dumping or going sideways your diff would be fine?

All depends on driver, the way the car is treated, the cars history and even the wieght of aftermarket wheels. I've never had any diff issues and i can say the same for a number of other s2000 drivers.

The s2000 diff may not be as durable as some other diffs when it comes to rev dumps or burnouts but on the other hand there are examples,even some FI, that are still running standard diffs with many hard track K's on them with no probs.End of the day abuse any car hard enough and it will break, its that simple.

[F20C]

i guess so.. doesnt the inline pro s2000 run a stock diff? 9 second pass on a stuck driveline i think.. im quite certain it was.. and that was alot off rev dumps obviously.. so maybe some are good but some are a miss?

[stndrd]

it may run a stock for a 9 sec pass but how many passes is it able to do before they put another one in? just because you see a car doing a 9sec pass on stock this and stock that doesnt mean it lasts. for all we know they may change diff every 3 or 4 runs =S

[F20C]

good point. but why would he keep spending money on replacing old parts? when it would be smarter to upgrade and replace them less often?

[ludecrs]

A Comptech Re-enforced diff will run you about $1200US + post.
An OEM one will run you about $700.

[F20C]

postage will cost an arm and a leg! but will be the better way to go huh


EDIT:: Out of curiosity anyone know what the 4.77 ratios top speed is?

[9large]

You can work it out. Theoretical maximum is about 237kph. Realistically, it's probably between 210 and 220kph.

[F20C]

237 redline? i've seen stock s2000's hitting 270 lol.. well 269 to be exact.. well i was watching youtube a car with 4.77 ratios hit 104mph.. which is around what the 160 range in a matter of 10 seconds :| lol.. didnt mention if it had work to it or not but yer..

[9large]

F20C, realistic top speed with standard gearing is about 240kph. And don't believe everything you watch on Youtube LOL

[vyets]

237 redline? i've seen stock s2000's hitting 270 lol.. well 269 to be exact.. well i was watching youtube a car with 4.77 ratios hit 104mph.. which is around what the 160 range in a matter of 10 seconds :| lol.. didnt mention if it had work to it or not but yer..

Hitting 160km/h in like 10 seconds is like running a 1/4 in 10 seconds lol. Most stock s2000's will hit 100ish mph at the end of the 1/4. and they run low 14's.

[F20C]

yer maybe its got mods done to it i just watched another video and it didnt seem as fast..

[BaSsMaXiMuS]

A Comptech Re-enforced diff will run you about $1200US + post.
An OEM one will run you about $700.

Heavy!! factoring in weight + shipping... another $600 ontop? What do they actually do to reinforce the diff?

I have heard ppl dip the the gears in some sort of coating to strengthen them?!? Couldn't find any iinformation on it though....:confused:

BTW.... by diff has had it, I was driving to the gym on Friday nite, the diff started to knock heavily, I managed to limp the car back home, it's sitting in thre garage now.. hopefully I get a call from Peter nxt week.

My next problem, getting the car there... eeek! :p

[ludecrs]

Heavy!! factoring in weight + shipping... another $600 ontop? What do they actually do to reinforce the diff?

I have heard ppl dip the the gears in some sort of coating to strengthen them?!? Couldn't find any iinformation on it though....:confused:


They "cryo treat" the diff.

This is the reinforced Comptech diff I was referring to.

http://www.weaksauceparts.com/store/images/t_18769.jpg

In simple terms, its used to help retain the diff and ring gear from getting forced out the back cover under hard acceleration / hard driving etc.

I know PuddyMod uses what is essentially a "collar sleeve" type design that locks in, so even if it breaks, the "collar" still holds it together and makes it work.

More Info On The Cryogenically Treated PuddyMod Differntial (http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=558914)

I'm sure someone like Aus or Jap could chime in some more in this area.

[JAP-S2K]

+1 for the comptech reinforced diff.

As for Cryo treating gearsets, there are +'s/-'s with doing this. IMO your making something thats already brittle (teeth prone to chipping/breaking off through poor diff design) and you make it stronger through cryo treatment(which is good, and proven on other mechanical parts) but is now even more brittle. IMO cryo treatment is only a bandaid solution, and your not actually overcoming the problem of why they break teeth off in the first place. Comptech nailed it with a solution. If reinforcing overcomes the problem of the crown and pinion wheel from pulling apart (this is why they break)then there's no need to cryo treat the gears.

Comptech is a sensible solution for those with F/I with higher and harsher torque loads. I would assume it would help those who are into 1/4mile racing too. However it still doesn't overcome the weak inner cv's.

[JAP-S2K]

BTW.... by diff has had it, I was driving to the gym on Friday nite, the diff started to knock heavily, I managed to limp the car back home, it's sitting in thre garage now.. hopefully I get a call from Peter nxt week.

Not trying to sound like a smart arse, but consider a change in driving style or fork out big on doing a very strong custom rear end. As diff's are not cheap or easy to find.

I'm amazed you've broken 2 diffs and not a driveshaft. :zip:

[ludecrs]

I found a better image of how it fits inside the diff.

http://www.ricks2k.com/products/images/Comptech/Diff/reinforced%20diff.jpg

[WhiteAP1]

I've had my gears cryo-treated, 3 years and 152 rwkws later, absolutley no problems. I agree that cryo treatment can have the opposite effect on some products but its been shown to work pretty well on the crown and pinion.


On another note, if anyones interested in calculating top speeds/gear speeds etc between different ratios, try this.

http://www.turnzero.com/technical_resources.php?resource=gear_calculator

[F20C]

thanks for that whiteap1.. im going to consider the 4.77 set i think. Top speed of around 230km/h..

[BaSsMaXiMuS]

Not trying to sound like a smart arse, but consider a change in driving style or fork out big on doing a very strong custom rear end. As diff's are not cheap or easy to find.

I'm amazed you've broken 2 diffs and not a driveshaft. :zip:

LOL - I have changed my driving style after the first diff went. Unfortunately when you buy something second hand there is no guarantee against anything.

But I don't want to blame anything on anyone. When I bought the car second hand it was working fine and when I bought the second diff it was working fine too so I guess I only have my self to blame.

Now... thanks for the info on "cryo treatment" and "alternatives" - I am organising a tow truck now...... I got quoted $220 for a 20km trip from Kellyville to Smithfield! :thumbdwn:

Anyone know any cheaper places?

[JAP-S2K]

LOL - I have changed my driving style after the first diff went. Unfortunately when you buy something second hand there is no guarantee against anything.

But I don't want to blame anything on anyone. When I bought the car second hand it was working fine and when I bought the second diff it was working fine too so I guess I only have my self to blame.

Now... thanks for the info on "cryo treatment" and "alternatives" - I am organising a tow truck now...... I got quoted $220 for a 20km trip from Kellyville to Smithfield! :thumbdwn:

Anyone know any cheaper places?

If your talking about a tow ring Johnsons towing 0439 869 464 his name is Brett. He's very careful and should be able to do a better price than that.

[SHOGUNOVDDRK]

I know a guy too.
Wait till tonight and i'll give you his number!!!

[AusS2000]

Hi all. Turbo charged, around 500hp, and on my original diff. I have broken an axle once launching and wheel hopping.

The Puddymod/Comptech reinforcing is a good method as the major cause of diffs dying is deformation of the caps and movement of the crown gear under harsh load. Only trouble is the Comptech reinforcement is a 'one-size faits all' solution so not as strong as Puddymods custom machining. But Puddymod requires shipment of a diff internationally. Very expensive. If you could find a diff specialist/machinist here that would do the work it would be ideal.

But these mods only address one area of the problem. Chris Barry (F20C in a Clubman) has blown a diff and pulled it apart and inspected. Apparently the crown gears hardening was too deep and edges not chamfered.

When a gear is manufactured you want the mating surfaces hard (and hence brittle) so they don't wear but if the hardening goes too deep the teeth have a tendency to break. Also, sharp angles encourage cracking so all angles at the base and edges of teeth should be rounded or chamfered (beveled). Not so in the case of this crown gear.

I assume that as in 1999 Honda only used a conventional 90 degree diff in the RWD S2000 the manufacturing was outsourced and the Quality Assurance less than ideal.

I'd say the best bet for a person who doesn't abuse their car is to consider aftermarket gears from Kia and possibly end cap reinforcement.

And if you intend to thrash the bejeezus out of your car with 7000 rpm launches, start saving for the Diff Technics R200 rear end.

(Oh, and Inline Pro do there own version of the R200 rear end so I suspect that is what they run in there 9 second car).

Oh, one more thing. Good maintenance is important. Have you changed your diff oil recently? I use Lubrication Engineers LE607 (now LE1605).

[JAP-S2K]

Well said :thumbsup:

[BaSsMaXiMuS]

Hi all. Turbo charged, around 500hp, and on my original diff. I have broken an axle once launching and wheel hopping.

The Puddymod/Comptech reinforcing is a good method as the major cause of diffs dying is deformation of the caps and movement of the crown gear under harsh load. Only trouble is the Comptech reinforcement is a 'one-size faits all' solution so not as strong as Puddymods custom machining. But Puddymod requires shipment of a diff internationally. Very expensive. If you could find a diff specialist/machinist here that would do the work it would be ideal.

But these mods only address one area of the problem. Chris Barry (F20C in a Clubman) has blown a diff and pulled it apart and inspected. Apparently the crown gears hardening was too deep and edges not chamfered.

When a gear is manufactured you want the mating surfaces hard (and hence brittle) so they don't wear but if the hardening goes too deep the teeth have a tendency to break. Also, sharp angles encourage cracking so all angles at the base and edges of teeth should be rounded or chamfered (beveled). Not so in the case of this crown gear.

I assume that as in 1999 Honda only used a conventional 90 degree diff in the RWD S2000 the manufacturing was outsourced and the Quality Assurance less than ideal.

I'd say the best bet for a person who doesn't abuse their car is to consider aftermarket gears from Kia and possibly end cap reinforcement.

And if you intend to thrash the bejeezus out of your car with 7000 rpm launches, start saving for the Diff Technics R200 rear end.

(Oh, and Inline Pro do there own version of the R200 rear end so I suspect that is what they run in there 9 second car).

Oh, one more thing. Good maintenance is important. Have you changed your diff oil recently? I use Lubrication Engineers LE607 (now LE1605).

That's good info. Thanks. :thumbsup:

I have enquired about the diff technics R200 rear when I was replacing my first diff, as you said it's expensive but for people who launch their cars at 7000 rpm it would be ideal. Since I seldom launch the car enducing wheel spin this would be overkill.

Yeah, I had the oil changed 4 months ago when I had the diff replaced. OEM fluid was used.

I was reading up about the KIA final gears being able to fit the S2K (KIA Sportage) - AusS2000 have you any idea of how much the gear set costs? This might be another option for me seeing my car is off the road for now...

[AusS2000]

'bout $600 IIRC.

[WhiteAP1]

I was reading up about the KIA final gears being able to fit the S2K (KIA Sportage) - AusS2000 have you any idea of how much the gear set costs? This might be another option for me seeing my car is off the road for now...

Dont forget to factor in the parts you need from honda (and how long it may take to get them) and labor. You'll also need a yellow box (speedo calibrator) to correct your speedo and labor to install if you cant DIY.The cost of the gear set is just the tip of the iceberg.

[BaSsMaXiMuS]

If your talking about a tow ring Johnsons towing 0439 869 464 his name is Brett. He's very careful and should be able to do a better price than that.

Thanks mate PM sent.:thumbsup:

[BaSsMaXiMuS]

I know a guy too.
Wait till tonight and i'll give you his number!!!

Hey Loyd, yeah sure that would be good.

PM sent

[Couges]

The clicking is just the driveshaft splines. Just grease them up. Easy fix.

If you need new gears then why not a set of good Japanese short ratio gears. I paid 1300 for some 4.77 J's Racing gears and 200 to put them in. Instant difference if you know how gearing works.

If these go then my next step is to put a set of Kia Sportage diff gears which are 4.77 as well and are exactly the same (straight fit) but would get them treated of course before I put them in. They are around 700 for the set.

There are places where they put an extra brace for the diff centre to strengthen it but can't remeber where.

Driveshafts are normally the weakest link and this can be overcome by upgrading the inboard joints with a billet item for around 800 a side which the guy from Liverpool way reckons he hasn't had one break yet with a standard diff in it.

[WhiteAP1]

If you need new gears then why not a set of good Japanese short ratio gears. I paid 1300 for some 4.77 J's Racing gears and 200 to put them in. Instant difference if you know how gearing works.

.

$1300? You do know that all J's does is re-sell the kia crown and pinion with a J's racing lable on the box. There's nothing japanese about them.

Only $200 for install? Did you remove and re-fit the diff yourself? Whoever you took it too must have some damn low hourly rates. Considering most places charge about 40-50 bucks an hour $200 wouldn't even cover the time it takes to fit the gear set.

[9large]

$1300? You do know that all J's does is re-sell the kia crown and pinion with a J's racing lable on the box. There's nothing japanese about them.


The Kia is actually sourced from Mazda (P/N MM05727110). Still - agree with your point - 1300 is a rip-off.

[WhiteAP1]

You can say that again.

http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=182172&st=0

Yeah I guess instead of saying there's nothing japanese about them I should say they are japanese designed and made in korea.

[intk20A]

You need to tighten your drive shaft nuts slightly to get rid of clicking noise....

But before you can your diff you might want to get your inner drive shaft joints checked out, they can cause a knocking or vibration on take off....the hardening on the outer casing of the joint wears away...

get these things checked out may not have to replace diff...

[crunkman99]

with the 4.77 diff, correct me if im wrong, but wouldnt it increase acellaration, as seen in the video were it beats the s2000 with the stock diff?

[WhiteAP1]

You get through gears faster but at a lower speed. The video is a good example of the difference from stand still till top of 4th or so.(approx)

[BaSsMaXiMuS]

Well it's been a while and I forgot about this thread.

This was the result of the clacking noise which I experienced when my car shat it self.

Rack and Pinion - Busted up pretty good! Even Robert was surprised at the damage it sustained.

Expensive lesson, car is back on the road at least. I now have a spare broken diff.

http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/9610/img0141iwi.jpg

http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/8146/img0139u.jpg

[SHOGUNOVDDRK]

Ouch Bro.

Thank you for teh pictures

[ludecrs]

I now have a spare broken diff.


How is the housing?

If its good, are you interested in parting with it? I need to send one to the US for exchange.

[BaSsMaXiMuS]

Sorry Ludecrs, I plan on keeping it. I already had offers for it also...