Recommend me a MTF (other than OEM)

[flipfire]

I cant seem to get hold of OEM fluid near my area.

According to the service history receipts, its nearly been 2 years since the oil was last changed (by the last owner). Also the gearbox bearings was replaced, flywheel machined and new clutch was installed.

Currently i find it sometimes stiff when putting in 2nd and reverse. Whats a good MTF that might help ease it?

TIA

[aaronng]

If there is a Honda dealer near your place, you can get OEM MTF there. Otherwise, look for an aftermarket one for use with synchromesh gearboxes and a viscosity of 75w80. Elf does make one in this viscosity.

[flipfire]

I called up my local honda dealer today, turns out i called sales last time and didnt put me through to service/parts. They have fluids in stock but they sound a little pricey

I was after:

OEM MTF is $20.62/1L x 3 = $61.86

OEM Coolant is $14.23/1L x 5 = $71.15 (No 5L bottles)

OEM Brake is $10.30/L x 1 = $10.30

= $143.xx Good price?

[EK1.6LCIV]

they dont sell 5L bottles of OEM coolant only 4L ones and they under $40

and oem MTF is alot cheaper than that in Brisbane, if it was easier to ship Id send u the lot lol

but royal purple MTF has worked for a few mates, bit steep tho...

[flipfire]

They said they only sell 1L bottles. Forgot to add in the thermostat too

I hear mekong spare parts at canley vale sell honda fluids cheap but i cant find the time to drive down there.

[EK1.6LCIV]

they sell 1L and 4L bottles, might be worthwhile heading to a larger dealership in town

[shadou]

If you're worried or on a budget you do not need to use OEM coolant or OEM brake fluid, you may use any generic brand as long as the brake fluid is DOT 4.
I would use OEM MTF for ease of assurance.

[flipfire]

Rather stick with OEM.. (now that i can get them). I hear some coolants will kill your water pump.


they sell 1L and 4L bottles, might be worthwhile heading to a larger dealership in town
I thought it was 1L and 5L bottles

Next dealer is a little too far, probably just pay those extra $$ :(

Btw how much should a d-series thermostat cost me?

[EK1.6LCIV]

other coolants will fk alot of the cooling system up in the std Honda engine, from the water pump to your radiator in general...

no idea on the cost of a thermostat as Im on my stock one and at 230000ks, Ive seen these last a very long time...

[shadou]

what sort of coolant are you using ? I used to work in a shop using generic green coolant on all cars over an extended period of time (except in toyota vehicles where red oem coolant was used).
Honda coolant is pricey, is preferred but many people have gotten away with aftermarket.
thermos <$100 usually

[EK1.6LCIV]

Honda coolant is hardly pricey considering the service intervals for it, and the quality of protection it offers not one single product in any spare parts store apart from bmw will offer.

seriously I ripped apart the top tank of my oem rad not long ago as it split at the top, just to have a look and I was amazed at what I saw inside, a brand new radiator core even at 220000+km...

try the same with that green shit after even half that and you will see large deposits of filth for the savings of a mere $10...

[aaronng]

I wouldn't hesitate as spending that extra on Honda OEM coolant, especially if it is something that is only replaced every 100,000km if your cooling system is working properly. That's 5 years, so the coolant will cost me only $14.23 a year, which is soon going to be less than a pack of smokes!

[flipfire]

other coolants will fk alot of the cooling system up in the std Honda engine, from the water pump to your radiator in general...

no idea on the cost of a thermostat as Im on my stock one and at 230000ks, Ive seen these last a very long time...

Seeing as my car has done much less k's than yours and i didnt experience overheating issues last summer, ill skip on the thermostat :D

Btw when flushing the coolant, do i just flush it from the radiator drain plug or do i also undo the drain bolt next to oil filter? Whats the difference?

[aaronng]

Seeing as my car has done much less k's than yours and i didnt experience overheating issues last summer, ill skip on the thermostat :D

Btw when flushing the coolant, do i just flush it from the radiator drain plug or do i also undo the drain bolt next to oil filter? Whats the difference?

A failed OEM thermostat does not cause overheating. It causes excessive cooling when the car is moving. So if the needle is in the middle area when stationary and then drops down when you drive at highway speeds, then the thermostat has failed.

Drain it from the radiator drain plug after turning the heater to max.

[EK1.6LCIV]

drain plug, then fill it up with distilled water (full in the rad and reserve) waiting until the thermo kicks in, top up the level in the rad, repeat two times, then fill up the rad and reserve accordingly with oem coolant :)

remember to collect all old coolant and water u put in the system and take to the dump (not to be put down a storm drain) :)