Kumho KU36's

[kevt88]

Anyone running Ku36's on their S? If so, how does it go on street & track?

[kongfu]

value for money but not for performance.

[F20C]

What about re001's? for 210 each.. abit more expensive then i last remember paying lol..

[vyets]

re001 aint got nothing on the ku36 :P

They awsome for street, track they are lacking abit but are good enough unless you want to get serious.
Don't last very long but. But they are real cheap

[F20C]

Well my rears are gone, there are literally no lines in the tyres bwuahah.. But i was tossing up RE050's or RE001's or my old S1 EVO's.. but S1's are like 475 each.. and dont last very long at all..

[2002 TeGgY]

RE001's are awesome, and last for quite a while (depending on what you put them through ofcourse lol)

[kevt88]

hmm well for 600 for a set of 16inch's. i think its worth trying for my coming track day.

[F20C]

i honestly think their awsome.. i had them awhile ago but moved back to s1's but if anyone read the other thread before i need work! now i cant buy either haha :(

[vyets]

Yeap 600 a bargin do it!
re001 are good, but they not in the same class as the ku36 the re01R or re11 however is :)

[LonSkii]

Ku 36 is a great tyre and a lot cheaper than re001

RE11 is coming out soon. here are review
http://www.1010tires.com/tire.asp?tirebrand=Bridgestone&tiremodel=Potenza+RE-11
scored 48/50

and KU36 review here
http://www.1010tires.com/tire.asp?tirebrand=kumho&tiremodel=Ecsta+XS+(KU36)
scored 48/50 too !!

and this place sell the cheapest KUMHO tyres in Aus
http://www.option1garage.com.au/NewTyres.htm

ps. i don't work for them. i have dealt with them, and their service is really good !

hope this helps

[kongfu]

another alternative you could try R1R..very good performance in dry and wet.

[ludecrs]

I run the KU36 on the rear and RE01R on the front.

I have ZERO complaints. Car grips like all buggery on the street. I no longer get wheelspin, or slide around corners.... but, I am comparing a 330hp S on 225/40 to a 330hp S on 255/35 rubber.

[F20C]

225/50/16 KU36 $155.00 from option1 exactly what i need and alot cheaper then re001's

[WhiteAP1]

Wow, thats cheap! Im due for a new set soon, all corners infact. Keep up the reviews guys.

[ludecrs]

225/50/16 KU36 $155.00 from option1 exactly what i need and alot cheaper then re001's

Option1 is up here about 30 minutes drive from me. Good guys to deal with as thats where my KU36's came from.

$200 per corner for 18" rubber. Can't complain about that.

[JMSBND]

another alternative you could try R1R..very good performance in dry and wet.


You mean Toyo yes?

Had them till this week. Great tyre and good value in a 16" for sure. Would have stayed with them if buying R spec again for sure.

I just bought 17" rims and layin off the track a bit so gone away from R spec a while. I went for Adrenaline 225x45x17 front and 255x40x17 rear. $1000.00 the lot seemed a decent price I guess.

[DC5TYPER]

I run KU36 255/40/17 All round. All I can say so far is :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

$280 corner from On the Run motorsorts.

Dry grip in straight line and corners is spot on. No loss of traction so far. Ive yet to push the limits of the tyre and plan to on upcoming track days.

Wet grip is not great while the tyre is cold. This tyre needs to be warmed up to the appropriate operating tempreture to have any sort of grip in the wet.


Other comparable tyres in the same class are AD08, RE-11 and Z1 Star Spec.

Tirerack have got a Video review with these 4 tyres. KU36 has the best cornering grip out of all 4.

This would indicate that the KU36 is highly suitable for track work.

[kevt88]

well my brother had ku36 18's on his liberty at track day(WP) and by session 3 or 15laps after, the tyres seem to heat up and lose grip progressively.

But i guess theres not much you can do about that except maintain the tyre pressure repeatedly.

Edited by: Ludecrs
Don't ask for PQ points, you will be flamed.

[jaeyon]

for sydney guys there is http://www.fsport.com.au/fsport_siteroot/home.html to save on shipping

[F20C]

Any for melbourne? lol..

[Bowzer]

Nice reviews, might consider a set of these in the rear, i've been running Direzza Z1 star specs great grippy tyre in dry and damp conditions but they didn't last very long in the rear... front still have heaps of tread left...

Whats the tread wear rating on the KU36's?

edit:

Interesting looks likeare badge as Ecsta XS in other markets, tread wear 180 similar to the Direzza Z1's

[irvinchua]

Well my rears are gone, there are literally no lines in the tyres bwuahah.. But i was tossing up RE050's or RE001's or my old S1 EVO's.. but S1's are like 475 each.. and dont last very long at all..

I'm running RE050a on all 4 corners and when they run out soon, I'm gonna get RE11.

I have considered the RE001s but I've been told the RE050a is still a better tyre albiet a while lot expensive. So, not being one who wants to downgrade (I believe that if you replace something, it's got to be the same grade or better), I'm saving up for a set of pads and a set of RE11. Can't wait.

[tamay_s2k]

im running yokohama C drive tyres on standard wheels. are they decent tires?

[F20C]

RE001's are the ones that "dont go flat" type of tyre huh? they come stock on bmw's..

[ncmx5]

RE001's are the ones that "dont go flat" type of tyre huh? they come stock on bmw's..

im pretty sure they're not run flats...

i just had my KU36's put on on Friday. So far its okay. I've just ran it in and havent pushed it yet. Got the Direzza Starspecs on the front from the last set. The rear Starspecs only last 20,000kms... thats including 1 track day and heaps of mountain runs. So all in all, not bad.

[nigs]

$155 for KU36....
I got ripped :(

Oh well, awesome tyre none the less!

Easy and predictable tyre to live with.

[Lerlo]

$155 for KU36....
I got ripped :(

Oh well, awesome tyre none the less!

Easy and predictable tyre to live with.

Ive been running ku36s for about 6 months now, and when it was new the grip was really really good. but on the track it melted really fast and bits of rubber were flying of it, similar to when your using an eraser on paper. RE001s on the other hand had no problems on track. Track temp wasnt very hot, about 28 degrees and i wasnt pushing the car hard.
Also, after the first 1000km, the grip became noticably less, maybe due to winter temperatures, im not sure. Wears fast as well.
Still a decent tyre for the price.

PS. I find is had very predictable handling, these tyres lose grip slowly when pushed to its limits.

[kevt88]

All competition tyres benefit from heat cycling. Heat cycled tyres show more consistent performance, prolonged life and reduced wear.
Heat cycling the tyres consists of one or two cycles of running the tyres under load without sliding or unduly stressing the tyres.

The following is a suggested Heat Cycling Procedure:-
Each cycle should consist of the following steps:

1. Mount the tyres set the tyre pressures at the recommended cold tyre pressure
2. Run 4-5 laps of the circuit at approximately 50% of normal race speedand
3. Reset tyre pressures to the recommended hot tyre pressure
4. Run several consistent laps over a period of 10-15 minutes commencing at approximately 50% of race speed and gradually building to 80% of race speed.
5. Do not over stress tyres and avoid driving over kerbs, ripple strips or any other undulations on the track.
6. Remove tyres from the car or raise the car or axle stands and allow the tyres to cool naturally to the ambient air temperature.
7. Maximum conditioning occurs when the tyres are cooled unloaded and after a period of 24 to 48 hours.

[F20C]

so im going to buy some rubber this week anyone got any places in melb that are decent on prices? i dont plan on spending 300-400 on a tyre right now..

[vyets]

tyres R us on mcintyre road for cheap 2nd hand tyres :)

[DC5TYPER]

so im going to buy some rubber this week anyone got any places in melb that are decent on prices? i dont plan on spending 300-400 on a tyre right now..

On the run motorsports. Clayton

I got mine there cheap.

[F20C]

tyres R us on mcintyre road for cheap 2nd hand tyres :)

lol not 2nd hand.. new but not 300-400 bucks each lol.



On the run motorsports. Clayton

I got mine there cheap.


I'll check it out, cheers DC5

[papa_]

bridgestone at highpoint got my potenzas for 1100...cheapest i could find

[4age8u]

RE001's are the ones that "dont go flat" type of tyre huh? they come stock on bmw's..

thats re050a i think standard on bmw,mercs,audi,feraris etc...i got them allround on my eg all i can say is it grips and when u hit the limit they let go really slowly

[F20C]

thats re050a i think standard on bmw,mercs,audi,feraris etc...i got them allround on my eg all i can say is it grips and when u hit the limit they let go really slowly

yer i think those are re050a.. what do you mean by the limit? the tyre speed limit?

[vyets]

Grip limit meaning driving your car at the limit lol cornering wise not straight line wise

[will.i.am]

tempe were selling the Khumos for 17" at $150ea... thats not bad for street slicks... they soft, not to baD on performace but my mates evo 9 chopped through them in like 4 months of driving hard on the street. so i doubt theyre very durable.

[F20C]

my s1's lasted me about 5000-7000 k's

[kevt88]

tempe were selling the Khumos for 17" at $150ea... thats not bad for street slicks... they soft, not to baD on performace but my mates evo 9 chopped through them in like 4 months of driving hard on the street. so i doubt theyre very durable.

I got a quote there, 16 inch. $200 per corner...

[jaeyon]

I got a quote there, 16 inch. $200 per corner...

the most popular sizes would be cheaper. some 17s are cheaper than 16's

[genghiskhan]

have you guys bought off option1garage?

[ludecrs]

Yes.

Thats where my KU 36's came from.

[DC5TYPER]

Just came back from a track day. 1 Second quicker with KU36 compared to Old used set of A048's.

Tyre very consistant. Very happy. More grip than I expected.

Cheers

[Nepolian]

FSport has them for people in Sydney! Can be cheaper than O1G when you consider the postage!

[vyets]

Just came back from a track day. 1 Second quicker with KU36 compared to Old used set of A048's.

Tyre very consistant. Very happy. More grip than I expected.

Cheers

Great stuff Vel considering they are a street tyre compared to the a048.
Did you go winton again? So 1:44 now eh :D

[DC5TYPER]

great stuff vel considering they are a street tyre compared to the a048.
Did you go winton again? So 1:44 now eh :d

1:43.4

Many laps between 1:43.4 and 1:44.5

hehe

We wanna go up again Nov 3rd with Tempered

[vyets]

I'm going up with tampered.
Fcuking awsome time with street tyres man. I'm doing 1.44.6 with streets. Come tampered :D

[sho]

i got mine from blairs tyres cheaper than FSport for those who are interested on getting a set from sydney :)

[Bowzer]

Just got a set of 255/40/ZR17 fitted on the rears $225 fitted and balance as for improved ride comfort, it is quite noticeable. The Z1's were worn out so it would be a bad comparison will have to wait and see

[DC5TYPER]

I'm going up with tampered.
Fcuking awsome time with street tyres man. I'm doing 1.44.6 with streets. Come tampered :D

Mad. We should battle, Street tyre war! hahahaha

[DC5TYPER]

Just got a set of 255/40/ZR17 fitted on the rears $225 fitted and balance as for improved ride comfort, it is quite noticeable. The Z1's were worn out so it would be a bad comparison will have to wait and see

$225 is the new low price for 255/40/17. Its toooooo cheap for the grip it gives you around the track.

[KaZe86]

ohh track... cant wait... :D maybe i should get a set of theses instead of semis on the stockies where in melb can i get a set for cheap cheap?

235/45/17 fronts
215/45/17 rears

[DC5TYPER]

ohh track... cant wait... :D maybe i should get a set of theses instead of semis on the stockies where in melb can i get a set for cheap cheap?

235/45/17 fronts
215/45/17 rears

I think Essendon Tyrepower got them cheap. or call Johnny at OTR motorsports in clayton

[KaZe86]

yeah will get some prices then check out my mates place also tyrepower hawthorn

[anexiole]

hi, there :)
1) i have used Firenza Sumitomo before and they were fairly loud. How's road noise on the KU 36 compared to this?
2) does KU36 have some sort of "rim protection"?

[DC5TYPER]

hi, there :)
1) i have used Firenza Sumitomo before and they were fairly loud. How's road noise on the KU 36 compared to this?
2) does KU36 have some sort of "rim protection"?

Yeah the KU36 is loud. Annoying sometimes but that's the compromise. The only bad thing about these tyres are the noise.

[rokkuchan]

Ku36 sucks... dont like it. I'd prefer Re001 which has smoother steering.

[doosra]

How many km's would you say the Ku36's would last for normal street driving.... ? Also, I'm after 205/45/17. Do they come in this size and how much can I expect to pay?

[euromandeluxe]

^ that's pretty narrow, you stretching?

[greek_rambos2k]

hey my mate is running ku36 on his prelude. has had them for 2 yrs and has done 6 track days on them and they still have plenty of tread left. very grippy tyres in the dry. shithouse in the wet tho

[doosra]

^ that's pretty narrow, you stretching?

I've got 235's on the rear but 205's on the front. I purchased the car with these tyre specs already so im just keeping with them. Car is lowered as well, so maybe he had 205 so there's no camber wear and scrapping.

My fronts are 205/45/17 and rears are 235/45/17. My rears tyres are new so only fronts need replacing. What is the ideal tyre size recommendation keeping in mind it's lowered?

[greek_rambos2k]

I've got 235's on the rear but 205's on the front. I purchased the car with these tyre specs already so im just keeping with them. Car is lowered as well, so maybe he had 205 so there's no camber wear and scrapping.

My fronts are 205/45/17 and rears are 235/45/17. My rears tyres are new so only fronts need replacing. What is the ideal tyre size recommendation keeping in mind it's lowered?

hellooooo. the tyre sizes you are running arent the best. your fronts are fine width/45r17 but your rears need to be width/40r17. running 45s on the rear means ur car is going 4.7% to slow so if your going 100kmh your actualy going 104.7kmh. rather if you use a 40 ratio your going only 0.7% slow which means if your speedo says 100kmh your going 100.4kmh. much more accurate. so yeah when you get new tyres fix that little problem...

[9large]

hellooooo. the tyre sizes you are running arent the best. your fronts are fine width/45r17 but your rears need to be width/40r17. running 45s on the rear means ur car is going 4.7% to slow so if your going 100kmh your actualy going 104.7kmh. rather if you use a 40 ratio your going only 0.7% slow which means if your speedo says 100kmh your going 100.4kmh. much more accurate. so yeah when you get new tyres fix that little problem...

Your calculations are incorrect, unfortunately. All else being equal, compared to AP1 stock dimensions, 235/45R17 is fine on the rears, but 205/45R17 has a slightly smaller rolling diameter than the stock 205/55R16 size.

To calculate the rolling diamter in mm, multiply <wheel diameter> (in inches) by 25.4, then add 2 x <tyre width> x (<profile>/100).

e.g. rolling diameter of 235/45R17 = 17 * 25.4 + 2 * 235 * 45% = 643.3mm

Note, the rolling diameter is not the circumference.

[greek_rambos2k]

i used several calculators to do it? hmm weird (when i say calculators i mean wheel calculators not like yehh the normal maths one. lol) my bad

[doosra]

After all the calculations, what tyre size do u guys suggest for fronts? With wider rims do u think they'll hit my guards?

[9large]

The answer is, it depends.

For road use, conservative sizes you may use are: 215/45R17 fronts and 245/40R17 rears. Something slightly more lively: 245/40R17 fronts and 255/40R17 rears.

The width of your rims naturally play a part, but it's the width of your tyres that primarily determine if your fenders need modification.

There's so much info about S2000 tyre fitment - try searching the forums on OzHonda or s2ki or even Google if you need more info.

[doosra]

My rears still have lots of tread so I think I might go with 215/45/17 fronts and leave my 235/45/17 rear.. Checking out tyre calculators this is probably best option..

[dlai5552]

I think you should go with 235/40 as it looks better and also doesn't mess with your speedometer as much as the 45's will!
I plan to get 235/40/17 for 17x9 wheels, but in Dunlop direzza star specs. You should go for star specs!!

[9large]

Both 235/40R17 and 235/45R17 differ from the stock AP1 rolling diameter by about the same amount - 1.84% and 1.88%, respectively. Looks are one of the last things you should worry about when it comes to your tyres Lol. But it's besides the point as his rear tyres are new.

[dlai5552]

where do you guys get this tyre calculator? help please?
I'm trying to figure out how much harder it will be to fit, 255/40/17 on my s2k compared to 235/40/17.
Do you guys think it will have much of a difference in performance in the end?

[euromandeluxe]

for your 17x9? what's the wheel offset? need that to determine if it will fit.

Performance depends on what you're after. What's your front tyre size? What's your current rear size? Do you find the rear to be taily? Wider rears will (generally) mean more rear grip and less oversteer tendency.

this is the tyre size calculator i use:

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

[euromandeluxe]

And why does noone look on s2ki! lol

S2000 wheel/tyre fitment guide
http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/342793-wheel-fitment-guide/

[9large]

Good stuff euromandeluxe - someone who actually does some research :thumbsup:

p.s. It's a crack-up some folks are trying to use these "calculators" when it's so easy to work out! I even provided a formula!

[dlai5552]

I've been using s2ki like no tomorrow.
wheel size will be 17x9 +45 offset.

I've been researching for like a week straight on my easter break about tyres and found that,
For a staggered fitment, the car will be more taily then a non-staggered fitment as the non-staggered will provide more grip on the front to compensate for the power to the rear,
creating and equilibrium of force/g force to be distributed across the front and rear tyres during a turn (especially for track).

However, by using the staggered fitment with aftermarket front sway bar, the car will be stiffer on the front and will hold out the natural oversteer of the s2k but still has a some oversteer in it of course.
And also, by using this fitment, it is recommended for more experience drivers who are able to correct properly.

But, I am trying to minimise the hardness of fitting the wheels, as I really don't want to relocate bumper tab.

[euromandeluxe]

Where'd you get that info from? unless Ive grossly misunderstood something staggered setups (wider rears) are used to decrease oversteer, especially in high power RWD cars.

Equal widths (non-staggered) does mean more grip in the front, but that would be to dial out understeer and improve turn-in. oversteer is the rear losing grip, not the front, so a non-staggered setup will increase oversteer bias, not decrease it.

Maybe someone with more knowledge can chime in but I've always been of the understanding that staggered is to reduce 'tailyness'

[9large]

Spot-on euromandeluxe. Also, anti-roll (or sway) bars help resist the car from "leaning" or "rolling" when cornering. With a stiffer front anti-roll bar, the effects of oversteer can be reduced.

[dlai5552]

If you read all throughout S2Ki, it says otherwise.
But I may be wrong, it's all mainly personal opinions

[doosra]

I ended up going with ku31's 215/45/17 cause of the price. Plus I don't thrash or track my car. $115 per corner fitted! Can't complain :)

[doosra]

Actually change of plans, went to ozzytyres and they advised me to go 215/40 which means speedo is out by 4.6% but they said "nah, your car is rwd so it doesn't matter". They're all full of it.. Never had a good experience with them so I went Tempe .. 215/45/17 is the best dimensions but seeing that my cars lowered, they werent sure whether it'll scrub if I put them on so I just went with 205/45/17 which I originally had. Kumho ku31 - 130 each.. Not too bad

[Hasbeen]

An anti-roll bar or sway bar is a weight transference device. It's action is to transfer weight from the outside wheel on the end of the car to which it is fitted, to the inside wheel on the other end of the car.

As 9large says, a stiffer front bar will transfer weight to the inside rear wheel, thus increasing rear grip.

A stiffer rear bar will help reduce understeer, in the same way. Unfortunately it will also decrease rear traction, possibly leading to wheel spin, & launch problems.

They are particularly effective on turn in, & are less effected by bumps than is the case when stiffer springing is used for the same effect.

They are limited in their application, & unfortunately you often see people trying to do things with them, when they should be adjusting roll centres first, then fine tuning with roll bars.

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[Hasbeen]

G String, that's how it used to work, back when I was racing the F1 & F11 Brabhams, but may be they have changed it since then.

They even came with adjustable links on our anti-roll bars to allow us to adjust the amount of weight transference, & correct the handling to suit different circuits & conditions.

Of course these were rear wheel drive cars, not so subject to lift off tail sliding, sometimes confused with oversteer, in front drive cars.

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[ludecrs]

Getting slightly O/T, but wouldn't inertia / momentum change the weight distribution under heavy braking (for example)?

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[Hasbeen]

String, you don't need any scales or gauges to see the result.

To start with, think of the original mini. If you look at photos of them racing, or just cornering hard, you will see them with a back wheel high in the air.
The Mini Cooper came fitted with a stiff front roll bar, & did not do this. Fit a Cooper roll bar to the mini & that rear wheel will come down onto the road too. That rear wheel, had no weight on it at all, while in the air, & now, quite obviously, has some, This you can change depending how stiff you make that front roll bar. Where do you think that weight is coming from?

I have a photo somewhere of myself in a Hillman Imp, & Spenser Martin , [winner of the 67 gold star in an F1 Brabham], in a Vauxhall Viva, coming through Murrays corner, into pit straight in the 64 Bathurst 500. I have the Imps front wheel high in the air, & Spenser has the Vivas rear wheel high in the air. This was the cornering attitude built into each car. Any enthusiast who bought either of these things back then, trotted down to the local spring maker, & bought a suitable roll bar to correct this silliness of the stock car.

With the Viva, Spenser would have been on the power since turn in, but with one back wheel now in the air, [& an open diff], he could not apply any to the ground. There is still enough weight on the outside front wheel to have it nearly scraping that corner on the road. This weight is coming from the rear corner waving around in the breeze.

The same front wheel lifting as with the Imp applied to many cars back then, when manufacturers did not even consider fitting rear roll bars, the original Lotus Elite, & the Morgan are 2 I raced, that improved dramatically with a rear bar getting some weight transferred onto the inside front corner. A stiffer front bar only made them under steer like mad.

Yes Ludecrs, you are absolutely right, turning in while braking will give you extra weight & grip on the front, but only while you hold the brakes on. Once you come off the brakes the thing will return to it's natural characteristic, ofter understeer today. A really competent driver can keep the tail out with power, if they have enough, & a rear wheel drive car, [think drifting], but the tyres will not last very long. Most drivers can not use this technique for very long, at higher speeds, before they disappear backwards into the scenery. It also will not apply, of course, where there is no braking into the corner. I for one would not like to be going across the top of the mountain, or through the chase at Bathurst in a car that required the application of brakes to set up it's handling. I did not use the brakes at all from the cutting to skyline in the F1 Brabham.

Similar results can be achieved with high bump setting on the shocks. The outside front shock can transfer enough weight, at turn in, to effect the grip, & change the handling. Once a cornering attitude has been established, a really good driver can hold it, rally drivers did it all the time in the old 2WD cars, but on bitumen you will have to be good, or the thing will bite you.

There are so many things like camber change, roll centers, static weight distribution, down force among them which interplay that roll bars are only a small, but critical part of handling. It's the bloke who understands which combination of these things, at which end, will give you what you want, who becomes a champion.

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