What brand of oil

[granta8082]

Hi I have a stock 2000 vti-r with 179,000 k and want to know what brand of oil to use.

[aaronng]

Use the search function. You can use a 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40 or 10w-40 oil. Supercheap auto is having an offer on Castrol Edge 5w-30. Good oil at the $35 sale price.

[vcreation]

it all depends on the condition of your engine.
i would NOT recommend any conventional minerial engine in a B18c2 Engine. go with fully synthetic or synthetic blend

if u are close to a Supercheap Auto.. then depend on ur engine condition
if ur engine is in perfect condition with no oil leak/burn at all. go with castrol 5w-30, very good on special for $35. but i think 5w-30 is too thin for a 180kms engine

if your engine has very minor to no oil lose, try the Castrol Magnetic..10w-40 $28 in bigW or supercheap on special $28, i really like this one and use it in my 290kms engine. this oil is perfect all around, good wear protection, cold start ability, good thickness. best bang for ur bulks

if ur engine is surely losing oil, then go with the Shell Plus (high milage) 15w-50. a thicker oil that will reduce ur oil lose. but i find this oil make ur car use slightly more fuel, may be because it's thicker. about $32 a bottle (never go on special)

if you really have tons of money to spend and want the best for ur car. go MobilONE superSyn 0w-40 if ur engine is at tip top condition or 5w-50 if you have small oil lose. but they are $58.67 on special. normal price $82 !!!! wowoowow

u may look into AMSOIL, Motul, Redline oils from performance dealers, but as ur car is stock... no point wasting that money

[aaronng]

Magnatec 10w-40 is shit. Magnatec is a conventional mineral oil. It is NOT magnetic. All it has is some additive that makes it stick to surfaces for longer compared to other mineral oils. You're better off running Edge 5w-30 for that 180k engine. You'll burn through magnatec in no time because as the viscosity modifiers break down the oil becomes thinner. Edge 5w-30 on the other hand has less viscosity modifiers and the viscosity stays similar throughout your service interval.

If your engine is consuming oil, then get it checked. Replace the PCV valve and do a compression check. Using thicker oil as a bandaid fix is never good in the long term.

[jdm_b16a]

The bottom line is: you get what you pay for.

The debate around what oil to use (and what oil is best), and is synthetic better than mineral oil has been chewed over for many years now.

In Australia being a warmer climate you can steer clear of the low numbers as they ensure a thin oil with less resistance (friction) when the engine is cold. As it warms up the oil thickens to the upper numbers, offering greater protection at higher speeds. Oils that are like this are called multi-viscosity (or multi-grade). An example is 10W-40, which I like to use. The thicker the oil gets as your car warms up the more power is robbed from it by the heavier consistency of the oil.

Oil weight, or viscosity, refers to how thick or thin the oil is. The temperature requirements set for oil by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) is 0 degrees F (low) and 210 degrees F (high).

Oils meeting the SAE's low temperature requirements have a "W" after the viscosity rating (example: 10W), and oils that meet the high ratings have no letter (example SAE 30). An oil is rated for viscosity by heating it to a specified temperature, and then allowing it to flow out of a specifically sized hole. Its viscosity rating is determined by the length of time it takes to flow out of the hole. If it flows quickly, it gets a low rating. If it flows slowly, it gets a high rating. Hence, a 0 or 5W oil is like water; a 20 or 30W is the upper extreme and much thicker. Your engine has to work harder to turn over and start.

Always follow the manufacturer's recommendation.

Consider switching to synthetic oil and changing your oil at greater intervals for maximum protection. Some people argue you can extend your intervals with synthetic oil (because it doesn't break down as quickly since its man-made, as opposed to mineral oil which comes out of the ground.)

Either way if you settle on an oil brand and type, stick with it and be sensible when servicing your car.

Peter

[aaronng]

The oil doesn't get thicker as it warms up though. It gets thinner. Hence the reason why the oil pressure gauge reads high when the engine is cold and gradually decreases as the engine/oil warms up.

[jdm_b16a]

The oil doesn't get thicker as it warms up though. It gets thinner. Hence the reason why the oil pressure gauge reads high when the engine is cold and gradually decreases as the engine/oil warms up.

Whoops! You're quite right - I should do my research before relying on memory.

This is why thin oils can be a problem under certain conditions, depending on your engine tune and how you drive. Obviously if oil gets too thin it will allow metal to metal contact, but if it's too thick it will rob power, since it takes more energy to push it around the engine. And the oil film will not shear easily between metal components, so you get added friction within the oil film. It's all a balance, trying to get the thinnest oil which will still maintain an oil film between the metal components.

It might seem that a high viscosity oil is all that is necessary to properly lubricate an engine. Unfortunately, this is not true. If a high viscosity oil is used during cold weather, it will become so thick and resistant to flow that it cannot properly circulate and reach the parts of the engine requiring lubrication. A thick, high viscosity oil will also become so gummy in cold weather that the starter cannot turn the engine fast enough to start it. The proper viscosity oil will remain fluid enough after the engine has cooled to permit easy starting, yet after the engine has reached operating temperature will retain sufficient viscosity to maintain an adequate lubricating film.

Peter

[Extracted information from http://www.vw-resource.com/engine_oil.html ]

[ekvtir90]

I bought mobil 1 fully synthetic 5w-30 for my car going to put it in my car for next service integra vtir. what do you guys think of mobil?

[aaronng]

I bought mobil 1 fully synthetic 5w-30 for my car going to put it in my car for next service integra vtir. what do you guys think of mobil?

Very good oil. Very expensive.

[vcreation]

I bought mobil 1 fully synthetic 5w-30 for my car going to put it in my car for next service integra vtir. what do you guys think of mobil?

mobil1 is really good but that one expensive.. $72.85 on special?

[ekvtir90]

Yes there on special bought them from autobarn it was the last one on the shelf.

[TheSaint]

i changed out my oil in my 94 VTI-R to Honda FEO 10w30 and it made a huge difference ... dont know what crap was in it before but my car ran a whole lot better with FEO in it

i than went and did the same to my GLI EG civic as well and got good results there too

the service guy at Honda gave me a discount as well ... +1 recomendation for Honda FEO

[vcreation]

5w30 or 10w30 are great for any kind of tegs, but i wouldn't use them in the hottest months of summer, for winter is awesome

[PNS 001_EG3]

Ive used several different oils in my type dc5r. Mobil 5w 30 castrol 5w 30 and motul 8100 5w 40 all of these were the top range oils all around $85 and motul was by far the better oil. (the easiest way to choose the best oil is go buy manufactures specifications and if the engine is worn go with a slightly heavier oil, like everyone says you get what you pay for) spend the money and get the right specs and you cant go wrong. Ps castrol Magnetec is terrible, id use baby oil before that rubbish

[4shizz]

Motul 8100 is fantastic stuff. the only other brand that has bettered me is royal purple.
i use motul regluarly (3000k change intervial, may be overkill but its good seeing the oil come out clean) and ill use royal purple during track time.

[aaronng]

If the oil is coming out clean, then it is not cleaning the carbon deposits (or you have no carbon deposits to clean :p). The blacker the oil gets, the better, since it means that the oil is suspending the carbon particles formed during combustion.

[TheSaint]

if the car is going on higher KM's - IE 300 000kms ... should i be starting to consider a different oil rather than Honda FEO 10w30?

[PNS 001_EG3]

Castrol Magnetic 10w-40, perfect for the kilometres done on your engine.

man magnash#t is just cheap rubbish, what is with you people lol

If you have higher Kms get a heavyer grade oil so if they recommend 5w 30 in you manual go 10w 40. but if your not burning oil just stick to 5w 30

Its not rocket science people

[markis]

ok en0ugh of opini0nated slander. Who told u that magnatec is mineral? Its semisyn. Toyota and honda use it. I should knw i use to work ther

[aaronng]

ok en0ugh of opini0nated slander. Who told u that magnatec is mineral? Its semisyn. Toyota and honda use it. I should knw i use to work ther

The 10w-40 has a mineral base stock with a small proportion of additive package (ester package to give polarity so that it is attracted to the metal). Of course, those additives are man-made, so Castrol calls it a semi-synthetic. However, it is NOT made of a mineral and synthetic mixture basestock, so in my opinion does not qualify to be called as a semi-synthetic.

For the cheap price in bulk (which is why dealers use it eventhough they should be using Honda FEO or Toyota's own branded oil), I don't expect much of Magnatec.

The only good Magnatec is the 10w-30 and is more expensive since it is a semi-synthetic (but not available anymore). Plus, I don't see any dealers using the Magnatec 10w-30. :)

Doesn't matter if you worked at a dealer before. That doesn't hold any weight. Only an oil analysis holds weight and I have seen analysis on the range of Magnatecs being tested on the famous engine oil forum. 10w-40 is a mineral with a tiny bit of ester, 5w-30 has a blended basestock. :)

Look at Castrol's technical datasheet. On every synthetic oil (even the pseudo-synthetic hydrocracked oils), they say it is synthetic. But for Magnatec, nowhere in the datasheet does it say that it is a synthetic oil. http://www.tds.castrol.com.au/default.aspx

[dinorider]

man magnash#t is just cheap rubbish, what is with you people lol


It's the Power of Mass Media Advertising.

Notice that many can't even spell 'Magnatec' properly and it comes out 'Magnetic' LOL.

Just like why do so many people continue going to their neighbourhood Pedders shop for lowering and 'performance suspensions' even though those in the know are well aware that 90% of Pedders shops are crap? Because Pedders advertises heavily and people know no better.

[markis]

Castrol Magnatec combines synthetic technology with intelligent melecules that cling like a magnet to critical engine parts, to create an additional layer of protection - http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/default.asp

[markis]

http://www.alibaba.com/product-free/100799055/Castrol_Magnatec_Lubricant.html - "Synthetic based engine oil" and of course me working as a mechanic using this same oil and seeing how it performs means squat.? are you a mechanic? :)

EDIT: upon a thorough search. i see mixed opinions about magnatec. alot of people claiming its shit and alot of people saying its great. im just going off what ive been trained. so personal experience tells me that its a fine oil and copes with heat just fine.

then again ive used all castrol oils in my GTRs and silvias and evos. 10w-60 took heat like a champ., 0w-40 was smooth as silk good economy didnt break down. the 5w-30 was shit house. caused solid lifters to chatter within 500kms on the gtr. was switched out with 0w-40. and out of my years of experience and advice from regular drift and track junkies i still use ROYAL PURPLE.10w-40. $80 a bottle. it takes heat better than castrol will ever do and yielded the best result in that commodore oil analysis years ago.

[aaronng]

Castrol Magnatec combines synthetic technology with intelligent melecules that cling like a magnet to critical engine parts, to create an additional layer of protection - http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/default.asp

Synthetic technology is a marketing blurb. The additive package has to be man-made as it is not naturally occurring. So Castrol used the words "synthetic technology" instead of saying that it is semi-synthetic. Having 5% synthetic additives in a 95% mineral oil does not make it a "true" semi-synthetic blended base stock.

Bear in mind that Castrol Edge 5w-30 that they call a synthetic engine oil is actually a hydrocracked mineral base stock oil. Castrol loves their marketing. Nothing wrong with the oil though, I still use the Edge 5w-30.

[aaronng]

http://www.alibaba.com/product-free/100799055/Castrol_Magnatec_Lubricant.html - "Synthetic based engine oil" and of course me working as a mechanic using this same oil and seeing how it performs means squat.? are you a mechanic? :)

EDIT: upon a thorough search. i see mixed opinions about magnatec. alot of people claiming its shit and alot of people saying its great. im just going off what ive been trained. so personal experience tells me that its a fine oil and copes with heat just fine.

I have used it and I have to say that Magnatec 10w-40 breaks down in 7000km of normal combined driving (at which the engine runs rough, I repeated this over 3 oil changes for 18 months), which is typical of a mineral oil. Even Mobil's Synth S (now Mobil 2000) lasts longer than that and keeps running smoothly.


then again ive used all castrol oils in my GTRs and silvias and evos. 10w-60 took heat like a champ., 0w-40 was smooth as silk good economy didnt break down. the 5w-30 was shit house. caused solid lifters to chatter within 500kms on the gtr. was switched out with 0w-40. and out of my years of experience and advice from regular drift and track junkies i still use ROYAL PURPLE.10w-40. $80 a bottle. it takes heat better than castrol will ever do and yielded the best result in that commodore oil analysis years ago.
Castrol calls that 5w-30 a fully synthetic oil and you have experienced it to be anything but by not being able to withstand the heat in the GTR. That is what I would expect to happen since it is only a "Group III synthetic" which is actually a hydrocracked mineral oil. It protects reasonably well like a synthetic when fresh but breaks down as quickly as a mineral oil under heat and pressure. :) That is why I always take Castrol's marketing with a pinch of salt, same for the reason why I don't consider Magnatec 10w-40 a semi-synthetic and the Edge 5w-30 a true synthetic because they just are not. :thumbsup:

[Limbo]

generally if your gonna use a minerial just do more regular oil changes at least every 5k.

Mineral oils generally break down more quickly with heat.
synthetic oils are more stable and don't break down as quickly with heat. They generally have better detergents & addatives.

I've used the magnatec & its fine so long as you change it every 5k, before it breaks down. More to use if its cheap, otherwise just stick with the FEO, its cheaper and will do the job just as well. I use to bulk buy this and stick it in my family's cars :) FEO is cheaper than toyota oil LOL, worked fine with all of them.

if your looking for value FEO & regular 5k changes.
If you want better protection, synthetic oil all the way.
I recommend 5w30 edge (good for daily driving & value especially when they are on sale)
Track - i use Motul v8100 - 10w40 (the ester based one)

Using the elf 5w40 at the moment. Haven't really tested it as i just changed to it.

I'm gonna give the Nulon 10w40 full synthetic a go next (not just cos of those fake Regoli tests). Looking from their tech sheets they seem pretty good and they seem quite value for money.

The worst oil i used has been penzoil, extremely bad cos it burnt like crazy.

I change all my engines every 5k regardless if i use minerial or synthetic.
If the oil burns within 5ks change to a different one, either its not suited to your motor or the oil is crap

[Limbo]

based on my usages i've used;

penzoil (10w30 synthetic)
penrite (5)
vavoline (durablend)
FEO
castrol - magantec & edge (5w30)
motul - v3000 & v8100
mobile 1 - 10w30 & 5w50
nulon - 10w30
Shell - 10w30, Ultimate
Prob some others that i can't rem at the moment also

the only ones i had problems with were the penzoil & vavoline, which seem to burn for no reason.

on my b16 i've mainly used edge 5w30 seem to burn once i boosted the car, which is understandable, motul v3000 (which had been good very little burn). I've changed my oil as little as 2k at times or less. Currently using Elf 5w40

[markis]

good point aaron. ur perspective backs up what ive just previously read. why they market both the oils as semi syn and syn beats me. luckily i use RP :)

[dinorider]

why they market both the oils as semi syn and syn beats me. luckily i use RP :)

Gimmicks to fool the ignorant consumer, that's why.

Just got to do our own homework and research.

[markis]

but homework and research nets results that support both sides of the argument. ie. i read an oil review saying it is and another saying it isnt. i think an email to castrol will clear this up.

[aaronng]

but homework and research nets results that support both sides of the argument. ie. i read an oil review saying it is and another saying it isnt. i think an email to castrol will clear this up.

Their official stance on it now is that it is. There was a lawsuit in the US when the hydrocracked mineral oil first came out where Mobil sued Castrol. Castrol marketed it as a synthetic but was a actually a modified mineral basestock. But Mobil lost the case, so now every oil company can use call their human-modified mineral oil a synthetic. Which is kind of sad since it is similar to someone taking an apple, spray painting it and calling it an orange.

Having said all this, I have nothing against using these miss-marketed oils (except for Magnatec past 7000km). As long as we are not paying extra for an oil that is marketed as a synthetic but isn't. Also, that's one reason why Supercheapauto can afford to drop the price of their Castrol Edge 5w-30 "synthetic" down to $30-35 during sales and still make a profit. It is a cheap mineral-based oil. But at $30-35, it is good value and I buy those in bulk when on offer. :p

[dylz]

My car has 130xxxks on it average condition really slow oil leak car lives in a kinda hot climate.

What oil should i use?

What oil filter should i use?

What is the oil capacity in a vtir teg

[aaronng]

My car has 130xxxks on it average condition really slow oil leak car lives in a kinda hot climate.

What oil should i use?

What oil filter should i use?

What is the oil capacity in a vtir teg

10w-40, fix the oil leak, use Honda OEM oil filter and the oil capacity should be about 4 litres. When you fill up, you should check the dipstick anyway.

[markis]

cheers for that Aaron. do you have any inside info on Royal Purple 10w-40

[aaronng]

cheers for that Aaron. do you have any inside info on Royal Purple 10w-40
Royal Purple is supposed to be a Group IV PAO synthetic that is blended with some Group V ester-based oil. Their claim is that they have the heat and pressure resistance of Group IV, but the protection and polarity of the Group V, making it stick to the metal. I've not used it personally, so I'm not sure on how smooth it keeps the engine running and how long it will last before becoming rough.

I guess from their description, you could call it a true synthetic version of Magnatec.

[InVtecWeTrust]

Can anyone tell me the exact amount of oil a vtir integra takes with filter..

I didn't get a owners manual with the car :(

[aaronng]

Can anyone tell me the exact amount of oil a vtir integra takes with filter..

I didn't get a owners manual with the car :(

When you do an oil change, fill it up with 4 litres first and then check the dipstick after waiting about 3 minutes. Top up to the maximum mark.

[aznstyler]

whats the best for a b18c1 + alot of vtecingg

[pinoy-boi]

Holly noobsters lol. just keep it always at the full mark, nd try not 2 over fill it, its not rocket science, come on guys........... nd also try using the search button...... will help u lots

[EVLGTR]

just get an OEM Honda oil....as what Tatsuro Ichishima, founder of Spoon Sports says, "it isnt whiskey so dont waste your money on expensive oils"......

[aaronng]

just get an OEM Honda oil....as what Tatsuro Ichishima, founder of Spoon Sports says, "it isnt whiskey so dont waste your money on expensive oils"......

Japanese OEM Honda oil is synthetic, while Australian OEM Honda oil is mineral.............. :thumbdwn:
What Tatsuro Ichishima said does not apply to us since they get wine while we get piss.

[EVLGTR]

Japanese OEM Honda oil is synthetic, while Australian OEM Honda oil is mineral.............. :thumbdwn:
What Tatsuro Ichishima said does not apply to us since they get wine while we get piss.

It may not be synthetic but our car isnt JDM either therefore Australian-delivered Honda motors should be perfect with Australian OEM Honda oils.

Ask yourself why would they sell OEM Honda Oils at our dealers.

[aaronng]

It may not be synthetic but our car isnt JDM either therefore Australian-delivered Honda motors should be perfect with Australian OEM Honda oils.

Ask yourself why would they sell OEM Honda Oils at our dealers.
What does JDM have to do with using a synthetic over a mineral?
Ask yourself the same question when the oil is not made by Honda, but by Caltex and labeled for Honda. :)

[EVLGTR]

What does JDM have to do with using a synthetic over a mineral?
Ask yourself the same question when the oil is not made by Honda, but by Caltex and labeled for Honda. :)

I suggest you read the thread ----> "What brand of oil"

LMAO. Being synthetic or non-synthetic isnt the point . i didnt even mention to get synthetic or mineral oil in the first place ROFL

This is a Honda forum isnt it?...Why would you want to go out and stress about other different brands. You'll be drilling your head in thinking about which other brands to buy. There are lots of brands to begin with, stick to the basic with OEM Honda FEO, it is the best bet and the most simplest choice.

If its produced by Caltex, so be it, i dont give a rats ass as long as what Honda provides and within their specs im happy with it

[aaronng]

I suggest you read the thread ----> "What brand of oil"
You can just answer the question with a single sentence, or you can go deeper and explain the differences between the different types of oil that one brand uses and the differences between those different ranges so that the member can then make a choice with more information to guide him or her.



LMAO. Being synthetic or non-synthetic isnt the point dumbass. i didnt even mention to get synthetic or mineral oil in the first place ROFL
It is the point, especially when you are quoting Tatsuro Ichishima and his statement is based on JDM OEM oil which is synthetic and totally different to AUDM OEM oil.



This is a Honda forum isnt it?...Why would you want to go out and stress about other different brands. You'll be drilling your head in thinking about which other brands to buy. There are lots of brands to begin with, stick to the basic with OEM Honda FEO, it is the best bet and the most simplest choice.
Because this is a Honda forum. As enthusiasts, we all want our engine to be protected the best it can be. That is why WE ALL STRESS about whether there are better brands than OEM oil. If you are the type that goes for the simplest and not consider if it is the best for what you are asking of your engine, then what is the point of contributing to this thread since you would be recommending the easiest but not the best solution. Why do you think so many members buy Motul, Elf, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Mobil, Castrol oil when "simple" OEM oil is suitable (at least for the first 7000km on a stock engine :))



If its produced by Caltex, so be it, i dont give a rats ass as long as what Honda provides and within their specs im happy with it
The specs for OEM oil used to be API SJ. They have now updated it to meet API SL. Sorry, but I want at least API SM for my engine.

[EVLGTR]

You can just answer the question with a single sentence, or you can go deeper and explain the differences between the different types of oil that one brand uses and the differences between those different ranges so that the member can then make a choice with more information to guide him or her.

Because this is a Honda forum. As enthusiasts, we all want our engine to be protected the best it can be. That is why WE ALL STRESS about whether there are better brands than OEM oil. If you are the type that goes for the simplest and not consider if it is the best for what you are asking of your engine, then what is the point of contributing to this thread since you would be recommending the easiest but not the best solution. Why do you think so many members buy Motul, Elf, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Mobil, Castrol oil when "simple" OEM oil is suitable (at least for the first 7000km on a stock engine :))


The specs for OEM oil used to be API SJ. They have now updated it to meet API SL. Sorry, but I want at least API SM for my engine.

errrrr because simple OEM oil is suitable, so far i havent heard of any OEM oil that F@#'s up an engine...hahahaha...what do you want to do? RACE it everyday like a dumbass who thinks a public road is a racetrack?.....well done mate.

Why would they make an OEM oil to F@#$ up an engine in the first place?

I think if you wanna get a bit more technical, hey, feel free to post EVERY oil brand in here and tell us all the cons and pros if you have plenty time to sit around the house/work coz im interested to read it all.....LMAO

By the way best of luck choosing the "Right" oil....Hahahahahaha.


It is the point, especially when you are quoting Tatsuro Ichishima and his statement is based on JDM OEM oil which is synthetic and totally different to AUDM OEM oil.

YES and you said they have fine wine and we piss on beer, its just an example i made how we dont have JDM machines (wine) and get a tuned-down AUDM machine (beer)...so whats your point????
You dont understand what im writing as an example do you? maybe you oughta go back to

[aaronng]

errrrr because simple OEM oil is suitable, so far i havent heard of any OEM oil that F@#'s up an engine...hahahaha...what do you want to do? RACE it everyday like a dumbass who thinks a public road is a racetrack?.....well done mate. Why would they make an OEM oil to F@#$ up an engine in the first place?
Yes, OEM oil is suitable. But, the question is whether OEM oil is best value for your dollar? If I can get Castrol Edge 5w-30 for the same price as OEM oil (which we do regularly during Supercheapauto sales), then I will do so. Why? Because it protects the engine better and it also tends to resist the formation of gum deposits when you expose oil vapour that is recirculated through the PCV system back into the hot inlet ports and valves. I have even had one of my cars running mineral oil end up with a gummed injector because of this. You don't need to have to race your car illegally on the street to have a reason to go for good oil to protect your $20,000-50,000 investment (albeit a depreciating one). To put it simply, why would you eat mince beef everyday if you could have steak everyday at the same price?



I think if you wanna get a bit more technical, hey, feel free to post EVERY oil brand in here and tell us all the cons and pros if you have plenty time to sit around the house/work coz im interested to read it all.....LMAO
Why don't you just use the search function? The pros and cons of each brand/model of oil has been discussed many times before. Otherwise there is always the bobistheoilguy forums where users have posted up their used oil analysis to compare metal wear.



By the way best of luck choosing the "Right" oil....Hahahahahaha.
Easy, the right oil is one in the price range that you are willing to spend and yet provides protection beyond what OEM oil can provide based on your driving habits and how well you treat your engine.



YES and you said they have fine wine and we piss on beer, its just an example i made how we dont have JDM machines (wine) and get a tuned-down AUDM machine (beer)...so whats your point????
You dont understand what im writing as an example do you? maybe you oughta go back to middle school chump
The point is, Ichishima's statement is based on someone buying expensive Group IV or Group V synthetic oil versus using JDM OEM oil (Group IV). Yet you decided to quote him as backing for your argument to use AUDM OEM (Group II) mineral oil. Now, that is very misleading to the other users here, especially those who know Ichishima's influence but don't know the context on which his statements were made.



You dont understand what im writing as an example do you? maybe you oughta go back to middle school chump
They say that people tend to start using insults when they are backed into a corner. ;)

[EVLGTR]

List all BRANDS and their pros and cons

[aaronng]

Thanks for your late night reply, *yawns* im sooo sleepy, i am touched but you still havent answered my question.

List all BRANDS and their pros and cons

And my answer is still the same, use the search function. Why should I type all that out for you, when it is obvious that you are not after the information for its usefulness. :)

[EVLGTR]

And my answer is still the same, use the search function. Why should I type all that out for you, when it is obvious that you are not after the information for its usefulness. :)

Errrrr im actually after the information that you claim to have.....its simple, If you dont use Honda's OEM FEO then what IS the best?

The post states "What brand of oil"....therefore im just asking to list every brand of oil that you know which is better than the OEM FEO and provide me the pros and cons so i know that you're not pulling it out your arse and hence it would satisfy my knowledge and leave it at that:)

[simonnowis]

everyones going to have their own opinions on brands, and as mentioned before really depends on your engine/condition etc. if your looking for something like feo, i recommend royal purple 10w-40. which is what im planning to use next. Pros so far: its synthetic + will have to exp if there is any difference at all, Cons: will find out if any. in the end, engine oil is engine oil it does what its ment to and not the only requirement to keep your engine in tip top condition.

[geeang]

Errrrr im actually after the information that you claim to have.....its simple, If you dont use Honda's OEM FEO then what IS the best?

The post states "What brand of oil"....therefore im just asking to list every brand of oil that you know which is better than the OEM FEO and provide me the pros and cons so i know that you're not pulling it out your arse and hence it would satisfy my knowledge and leave it at that:)

As he has already stated before, use the SEARCH function, oil brands/preferences has been discussed at length multiple times before.
Aaronng has provided his insight into those discussions, which are easily found if you searched for topics regarding oils.

[aaronng]

Errrrr im actually after the information that you claim to have.....its simple, If you dont use Honda's OEM FEO then what IS the best?

The post states "What brand of oil"....therefore im just asking to list every brand of oil that you know which is better than the OEM FEO and provide me the pros and cons so i know that you're not pulling it out your arse and hence it would satisfy my knowledge and leave it at that:)
I don't need to prove anything to you. But if you are after that knowledge, these are only a short list of the oils that are better than FEO in protecting your engine: Castrol Edge 5w-30, Edge 0w-40, Mobil 1 10w-30, Motul xcess 5w-40, Motul 300V 10w-30, Elf Exellium 10w-30, Excellium 5w-40, and the list goes on. These are all Group IV and Group V oils with the exception of Edge 5w-30 which is a Group III. Group III still protects almost as good as a Group IV but does not have its resistance to harsh operating conditions. Of course, this list is only for Hondas as your R32 requires a totally different viscosity which makes this list of oils unsuitable for your engine. :)

[EVLGTR]

I don't need to prove anything to you. But if you are after that knowledge, these are only a short list of the oils that are better than FEO in protecting your engine: Castrol Edge 5w-30, Edge 0w-40, Mobil 1 10w-30, Motul xcess 5w-40, Motul 300V 10w-30, Elf Exellium 10w-30, Excellium 5w-40, and the list goes on.

In that case you can start doing your homework by writing up Castrol Edge 5w-30, Edge 0w-40, Mobil 1 10w-30, Motul xcess 5w-40, Motul 300V 10w-30, Elf Exellium 10w-30, Excellium 5w-40 pros and cons

"Its only a short list but the list goes on".....

Now you're involving R32's engine oil?....forget it dude.....you know JACK S#*T about oils, if you dont want to prove all engine oil brands and their pros and cons just say so and leave it at that.

[aaronng]

the obvious pro of a better oil is "maintains thin oil film on moving surfaces under high pressure, does not break down under heat and pressure as quick" and the con is "more expensive". That would be the SAME of ALL the oils listed there except for Edge 5w-30 that I mentioned had a con of not lasting as long as the Group IV oil under heat and pressure.

Anyway, I have entertained him enough. If he does not have anything to contribute positively to this forum, then he is not welcomed here.

[EVLGTR]

probably wouldnt hurt to be abit more courteous others.

Sorry to have hurt your feelings, i'll be a little bit more courteous next time

[Zilli]

this thread is a very useful one to us all. The behaviour that has been going on in here will not be tolerated. All have been warned.

[infusionz]

anyone use martini oils before what u guys think of them?

[Trice]

just bumping this thread as i do not want to open a new one...

currently engine is running on 170,000kms and needs a servicing, and decided to do it myself, the previous service the mechanic had used a motul racing oil, and i was wondering where i can buy this from as i liked the effect it did on my car, what do u guys recommend? and the engine is leaking a bit as well.


and also do i buy the oil filter from honda?

cheers

[aaronng]

just bumping this thread as i do not want to open a new one...

currently engine is running on 170,000kms and needs a servicing, and decided to do it myself, the previous service the mechanic had used a motul racing oil, and i was wondering where i can buy this from as i liked the effect it did on my car, what do u guys recommend? and the engine is leaking a bit as well.


and also do i buy the oil filter from honda?

cheers

Which Motul oil was this? Do you know the name? Autobarn and Repco sell Motul oils.

For oil filter, yes you can buy it from Honda.

[Trice]

Which Motul oil was this? Do you know the name? Autobarn and Repco sell Motul oils.

For oil filter, yes you can buy it from Honda.

Well im not sure, thats why im kinda asking lol, a motul racing oil which is suitable for around 170000kms :s

[aaronng]

There is the Motul Xcess 5w-40, which is a fully synthetic group IV, and then above that you have Motul 300V, which is a Group V (there should be a range of viscosities available, I think). 300V is very expensive though. I'd say go for Xcess but monitor the oil level weekly incase your engine is burning oil.

[Trice]

Im pretty sure its burning or leaking(?) oil as i serviced the car only about 3000kms ago, tx for the reply

[rice_spirit]

sorry to hijack the thread..but given that there are many better oils out there than OEM honda is it still okay to use honda oil? the thing is i just got a minor service (105 000kms) from hannys and they gave me honda oil.. i did ask for fully synthetic but i've been told that they only have elf 10w-50 which is really thick and is only used if my engine is burning a lot of oil..

so assuming that money isn't really an issue should i go and get the oil changed to something fully synthetic or is it actually fine to use honda oil as long as you change it every 5000kms?

btw this is for a daily driven dc2r with occasional vtec

thanks

[aaronng]

sorry to hijack the thread..but given that there are many better oils out there than OEM honda is it still okay to use honda oil? the thing is i just got a minor service (105 000kms) from hannys and they gave me honda oil.. i did ask for fully synthetic but i've been told that they only have elf 10w-50 which is really thick and is only used if my engine is burning a lot of oil..

so assuming that money isn't really an issue should i go and get the oil changed to something fully synthetic or is it actually fine to use honda oil as long as you change it every 5000kms?

btw this is for a daily driven dc2r with occasional vtec

thanks
Don't worry. Just drive the car as per normal and change the oil out in 5000km.

[Zinga77]

Hi guys,

I have been searching on the net and this forum for what type of oil to use on a type S but have had no luck so thought I would ask here.

I have just purchased a 2006 type S that has done 75,000kms... I have noticed that the 70,000km service was not done by previous owner so I am going to service it now and then again at the 80,000km mark

What brand and type of oil would you recommend for the Type S engine... the car is being used usually for daily under 10km at a time drives during monday to friday and vtec a few times... on the weekend I would usually drive the car longer then that and use the vtec a bit more

Would appreciate your advice and sorry if this has been answered previously cause I couldnt find it
Thanks

[aaronng]

Would appreciate your advice and sorry if this has been answered previously cause I couldnt find it
Thanks
Look here. Also applies to the Type S. http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?93623-What-oil-are-u-using-for-your-integra&highlight=engine+oil

[Zinga77]

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction... so I guess after reading that it seems like the honda feo or if you want to go premium then the mobil 1 or motul

[aaronng]

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction... so I guess after reading that it seems like the honda feo or if you want to go premium then the mobil 1 or motul

For medium cost but good protection, Castrol Edge 5w-30 is an option too. It is good value if you buy it during supercheapauto's 20% off sale.

[minircc]

agree with aaronng. i have used Castrol Edge 5w-30 for a long time now and it is a good oil.
i have also tried many different oils over the past 10 years.

[xtan]

I bought mobil 1 fully synthetic 5w-30 for my car going to put it in my car for next service integra vtir. what do you guys think of mobil?

For my past 3 services have been using this stuff. Works great, barely losing any oil, got 170k on engine.
I've been wanting to try motul 8100v, but haven't had time to as mobil1 seems to be working great for me, going to try genuine Honda FEO 10w-30 as i already bought it for my next service next week :).

[aaronng]

FEO 10w-30 is a full mineral oil. So don't expect it to be as smooth as Edge 5w-30.

[mikul]

if i was you ...i would use genuine high performance honda oil :)

[aaronng]

if i was you ...i would use genuine high performance honda oil :)

What oil is that? Honda Australia only sells genuine Honda Fuel Efficient Oil (FEO).

I admit the JDM Honda Gold oil is very nice being a group IV synthetic, but it is not readily available here.
http://www.honda.co.jp/auto-parts/oil/ultra/image/products_04.jpg

[Zinga77]

Thanks for the advice... so does it matter how many kms the engine has done when choosing an oil? My car has done 75,000km so does that mean I should be looking out for a different type compared to when I have done 150,000 km

[aaronng]

Thanks for the advice... so does it matter how many kms the engine has done when choosing an oil? My car has done 75,000km so does that mean I should be looking out for a different type compared to when I have done 150,000 km

You choose based on your engine condition. Relying on number of kms alone only tells half the story. I would choose an oil and stick to it until you get signs of an old engine. If by the time you reach 150,000km and the engine doesn't burn any oil, just stick to the same oil that you are using.

[cnc]

my car reccomends 0w-20 oil do you think its ok for me to change it to 5w-30?

[aaronng]

my car reccomends 0w-20 oil do you think its ok for me to change it to 5w-30?
What car do you have?

[silverspoon]

Hi, was planning to post a new topic, but think here might be the place.

I have been told by my housemate that I should try some 0w-50 in my car. I have a 2002 ITR thats done 90000km closing in on the 100000km service. I was planning to experiment with this change in oil as my housemate has owned an assortment of cars and I trust and heed his words. But has anyone tried this before and results? I do oil changes every 8000km so its about due for another one.

[dc2r-0636]

hey guys would anyone know if i would lose power if i use motul 5W40 oil? or the 10W40? http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/4stroke/4stroke03.html
currently using castrol edge sport 5w30. would there be any noticeable power loses? if any

thanks

[DC2-PWR]

Use mobil 1 oils, I've used penrite 10W-50, and used Royal purple 10-40W twice, and now I'm hooked to Mobil 1 5W-30. It's an insane oil, you'll feel the difference and notice low fuel consumption aswell.

[Bludger]

of course you'll notice better fuel consumption when going from 50 to 40 to 30.

has nothing to do with brand but more so the viscosity.

[silverspoon]

I'm about to try Motul 300V 5w-40. It is highly recommended in Japan for street and track cars alike. Apparently there is a noticeable difference in acceleration, smoothness and oil reducing. At $90 for 4L though it is worth experimenting with. Will post my results as they come to hand.

[silverspoon]

Ok guys did my oil change yesterday. I instantly noticed a difference in power delivery, not sure if it's just fresh oil but anyways it is a lot smoother and the acceleration of the car is more precise. Worth my recommendation although the price is a bit high.

By the way, has anyone tried out the new FEO Ultra 5w-30 synthetic that Honda has produce? I went to buy my oil filter and washer and noticed it, they said it was literally brand new. Only recommended in 2001 and up vehicles and that Honda finally decided to test and produce something synthetic for the consumer market. If anyone tries this oil please post results.