Integra DC5 Base 2002, k20a3 AUTO & Hondata Reflash

[hourpung]

Hey Guys,

Ive been searching everywhere and calling around and it seems like no one in Australia can reflash my ECU.

I am not after k100 or Kpro i am just after the RSX reflash on the hondata website. I was quoted 4K for my base model which is not worth it. I am just after abit of performance boost.

Do you guys know anyone that does it down here? I am from South Australia and it looks like my only option is to send my ECU to the US and get them to do it.

Thanks.

[TypeS]

Either that, or you could buy an already reflashed 2nd hand ECU from the states. Of course, you'll have to get your immobilizer matched to the ECU, but it'll eliminate downtime and may even be cheaper.

[ECU-MAN]

Kpro doesnt support Auto trans !!!

[Tofu]

he said he doesn't want kpro or k100
you only have two options, send it over there or buy a second hand ecu that's already been reflashed.
i encountered the same problem when i had my base auto, but i didn't do it in the end cuz it's just not worth the trouble.

[aaronng]

If you are looking at at least 2k for just the reflash, why don't you get some good headers instead?

[Dr.k20z1]

i recommend you just doing the basic bolt ons if your wanting just a lil more performance. at the end of the day its a base (auto), to get the full potential, you may aswell get type s/r.

just get i/h/e....

[Tofu]

hey! let the man/girl enjoy his/her base auto dc5
they can still be a heap of fun with suspension mods done to it. I've had a auto dc5 before my TypeS and at times i wished i still kept it.

[hourpung]

hey! let the man/girl enjoy his/her base auto dc5
they can still be a heap of fun with suspension mods done to it. I've had a auto dc5 before my TypeS and at times i wished i still kept it.

Hey what mods did you do to your suspension?

I am looking at getting some lowering springs. I am feeling heaps of bump on the road at the moment using stock wheels.

I might go to 17 or 18. What do you think?

[Tofu]

going 17s and 18s will make the car feel more bumpy, especially with 18s
i had Mugen Sport suspension, which it replaced my original spring and shocks combo.
Just replacing springs might actually make it more bumpy from riding in my friend's cars that has done this. I personally haven't just replaced springs in my own cars before. I've always gone with spring and shock replacement at the same time or just buy coilovers.

I'd suggest getting a rear sway bar, either 22mm or thicker for the base auto. Then look at getting something for the suspension rather than just springs. Springs just makes the car lower, and improves handling very slightly.

[hourpung]

SinCe your such a pro and I'm jus some noob. What would you recommend going 17 or 18 wheels.

Is there a noticable difference between 17 by 7 and 17 by7.5? Thanks for the suspension help. Will take that onboard. Would coil covers help me feel less bumps on the road?

Thanks for your help.

[Tofu]

i currently have 17x8 on my TypeS with +40 offset and i find this pretty good and fairly flush at the rear, but i would prefer more offset at the front. There are people who run 17x9 with a crazy offset. I'd go for 17s over 18s, but 18s do look better. With regards to bumpiness between 17vs18 i think it also depends on what tyres are on them. Some tyres have a softer sidewall some stiffer. a 17" wheel with stiff side walls might feel bumpier than 18s with softer sidewall tyres.

To eliminate bumpiness from a coilover/suspension point of view, you will be searching high and low for the perfect setup, which is not going to happen. If you change anything, it will be bumpier unfortunately. My best friend also has a TypeS and he refuses to change his suspension because he likes how it rides stock, but hates how it is so high. You'll always compromise ride quality when changing to aftermarket suspension.

[hourpung]

i currently have 17x8 on my TypeS with +40 offset and i find this pretty good and fairly flush at the rear, but i would prefer more offset at the front. There are people who run 17x9 with a crazy offset. I'd go for 17s over 18s, but 18s do look better. With regards to bumpiness between 17vs18 i think it also depends on what tyres are on them. Some tyres have a softer sidewall some stiffer. a 17" wheel with stiff side walls might feel bumpier than 18s with softer sidewall tyres.

To eliminate bumpiness from a coilover/suspension point of view, you will be searching high and low for the perfect setup, which is not going to happen. If you change anything, it will be bumpier unfortunately. My best friend also has a TypeS and he refuses to change his suspension because he likes how it rides stock, but hates how it is so high. You'll always compromise ride quality when changing to aftermarket suspension.

i dont know but my brother has an accord and he changed the suspension to a sports one. He currently has a 17*7 225/45/17 set up. His ride feels so much more smoother than mine. We go on the same bump and the feeling is night and day between his and my car. Maybe im comparing two totally different cars.

I think i am just going to go with 17x17 RPM R508 black with machine lip on a pearl metallic RSX. What do you thinK?

[Tofu]

i'm not sure about the accord because i've never been in one with modified suspension, but i think having a stiff chassis plus stiffer suspension makes the car feel bumpier too...just from my own observations.

[randalln]

the accord has a real smooth ride with either stock or most aftermarkets, it's a different story for the DC5 series.

Tofu what mods did ya end up doing to ur old DC5 base n how did it turn out?

[Tofu]

for my base auto, i had mugen sport suspension, whiteline 22mm rear sway bar, spoon rear lower tie bar, spoon strut bar front/rear, oem TypeS 26.5mm front sway bar, vision rear camber kit. Using stock 16" wheels with Toyo T1R tyres. OEM TypeR header + cat, fujitsubo powergetter catback, injen cai and a few bits and pieces like endless brake pads and fluids.

With these mods, it held quite well against a stock TypeR around the twisties, but coming out of the corners i can't keep up.

[hourpung]

for my base auto, i had mugen sport suspension, whiteline 22mm rear sway bar, spoon rear lower tie bar, spoon strut bar front/rear, oem TypeS 26.5mm front sway bar, vision rear camber kit. Using stock 16" wheels with Toyo T1R tyres. OEM TypeR header + cat, fujitsubo powergetter catback, injen cai and a few bits and pieces like endless brake pads and fluids.

With these mods, it held quite well against a stock TypeR around the twisties, but coming out of the corners i can't keep up.

hey tofu, i managed to grab a used buddy club n+ damer coilovers for 1100 used.
hopefully i can feel some sort of differences.

[Tofu]

good choice! post pics when they are installed!

[hourpung]

good choice! post pics when they are installed!

do you think 1100 for a used buddy club coilover (roughly a year) is alright? Btw i got myself an 18inch rim with continental contactsports 2 tyres. :o

Hopefully everything turns out well. :thumbsup:

Oh i nearly forgot. i also got a type s race header. Do you think its stupid to use it with stock exhaust. I don't really want a loud noise and if the performance isnt sufficient i wouldn't mind sticking to stock exhaust.

[Tofu]

after fitting on the TypeS race header your stock base model catback will not fit.

The base model's catback is shorter i think from memory, so you will need to get an extra bit welded onto your stock exhaust to fit the TypeS header.

OR, if you're getting a new cat with the TypeS header, just make the pipe from the cat longer, but the size of the piping on the stock base catback is quite restrictive, so this defeats the purpose of installing a "race header"

OR (i would prefer this option) buy second hand stock TypeS or TypeR catback