removing oil pan on d16

[twing]

Hi guys,

Does the 2-1 pipe need to come out in order to remove the oil pan?

[richy b]

most likely it would have to, should be 5 bolts in total, 3 to exhaust head, and the 2 which connect to centre pipe

[ECU-MAN]

you certainly have to remove the dump pipe to remove the sump. also the gearbox to engine brackets.

[EK1.6LCIV]

sorry to bump an old thread, didn't see fit to make a new one

what condition will the exhaust gaskets be upon removal and what have people used before to reseal them (2-1 gaskets)?

I'm also a bit skeptical on the amount of honda lube (for the price this gear better not dare leak) the manual calls up, seems pretty light on

[Riviera]

nothing wrong with loctite exhaust goo

and you talking about oem oil?... get some flash stuff lol or just use penrite's 15W 40 now 15W 50 range...

[EK1.6LCIV]

nah the amount of sealant maker (have honda lube at mine to use, like gasket goo, etc)

just bored this weekend, will maybe post up some pics

[EK1.6LCIV]

been fun so far lol, bout an hour and a half into it

splash guard
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF6582.jpg

then removed the 2-1
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF6583.jpg

booo
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF6584.jpg

then all of the bolts holding the supports and flywheel cover come off
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF6586-1.jpg

drain oil and then sump is accessible
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF6588-1.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd127/kwelrap/DSCF6592.jpg

will update more later

[beeza]

Notice any difference with the header wrap Ryan?

Would be best to port match that gasket and any others too and get the wires extended on the 02 sensor and get it mounted where the 2 meets the 1.Looks like there's a bung under the header wrap just before the cat.Cause atm it's only reading 1 cylinder!

Love the valve cover :)

What size exhaust system are U running?

Top stuff mate!!

[EK1.6LCIV]

Notice any difference with the header wrap Ryan? yes, doesn't melt my inner driveshaft boot anymore lol the top section doesnt need it

Would be best to port match that gasket and any others too and get the wires extended on the 02 sensor and get it mounted where the 2 meets the 1.Looks like there's a bung under the header wrap just before the cat.Cause atm it's only reading 1 cylinder! It's fine mate, still gets good ks a tank and makes clean power/emissions :)

Love the valve cover :)

What size exhaust system are U running? 2" system

Top stuff mate!!

and replied, will post more pics 2moro :)

[beeza]

Thanks mate,is it a press bent system?

[EK1.6LCIV]

sure is, works very very well

put everything back up, rubber mallet is your friend, along with hondabond and rtv for the exhaust

nothing out of the ordinary, the only bonus was having the aftermarket 2-1 and a custom made flange near the cat with easy access over the oem system lol

[beeza]

Good work mate,great to see!

I'm gonna stick with my 2" press bent too and get rid of the twin loop for a 2" oval straight through mercury motorsports muffler for $150 fitted.

Like I said b4,sick and tired of trying to find money I simply have not got.After the muffler is in,if it feels like it can handle the cam without being too restricting I'll do that too.

Anyways,top job,anymore pics?

btw did ya see my TB mod in The batmobile thread? what do ya reckon?

[EK1.6LCIV]

no more pics, got stuck into it again early this morning, removed the sump bolts, rubber mallet knocked it off its hold, took it outside for a thorough clean with heaps of degreaser and the hose, let it dry off, etc. Wasn't alot to clean off compared to the silvia, lol, bugger all gasket goo stuck on the block left to remove, was awfully surprised. Didn't take long to dry, tiny lil baffled sump, put the new gasket in there, applied the right amount of hondabond (or rtv if you must though hondabond is $25 dearer for a toothpaste sized tube) and went over with a thin layer on most the rest of the surface to ensure it doesn't leak again :). Went back on with ease, tighten the bolts in a three step fashion to the required torque starting from the center and working your way back criss cross fashion to the outer bolts. Attach the flywheel cover (rubber mallet again slightly you'll know what I mean), put the stiffeners back then reattach your two to one section with new rtv on gaskets and bolt that back up, instant success. Wait at least an hour for everything to cure up then add some new oil and start her up waiting til it gets to the right oil pressure and go for a drive to check for any leaks.