Calibrating the Voltage on the TPS

[beeza]

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

Any additional/relevant information gained from this thread has been added to the first 2 posts.So all the info you need is in the first 2 posts.No need to look through the thread for any additional information.

Aim:

To calibrate the voltage on the TPS Sensor,a sensor on the throttle body that tells the ECU where the throttle is positioned.Over time the Tps goes out of calibration and your car's performance suffers greatly for it.

I was VERY impressed with the difference this made to my car.It increased throttle response,smoothly revving across the whole rev range and makes for a far enjoyable car to drive.

If your car is around the 8 year old mark,you should DEFINATELY do this IF you want better performance from your car and offcoarse,who dosen't?!

Again,I can't emphasize how effective this is,a must do!

Combined with modifying ya stock TB,your car won't be the same and you'll NEVER wanna go back to stock again! :)

So do em' both eh!

Modifying the stock TB for more airflow (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?132174-Modifying-the-stock-Throttle-body-for-more-air-flow&p=2732844#post2732844)

EK1 Civic has just done this,this is what he said after it:


The car runs so different now, i have to use the pedal less, the responce is amazing, even when i put the foot down it goes even harder then before. I tested going up a hill to see for improvement, basically went in gear 3, 42kms at about 1700 revs and it held it the whole time without having to push the pedal any further. Feels like my lil civic has been reborned. Amazing DIY props to u beeza :D

THE TPS IS OVERLOOKED OR SHOULD I SAY NOT UNDERSTOOD BUT THE TPS HOLDS GREAT BENEFITS WHEN CALIBRATED.

Required:

Hacksaw
Suburu Upper Engine Cleaner/Super Engine Conditioner
Screwdrivers
2 screws 16mm x 5mm Metric thread with a dome head
2 pins
Multimeter
Allen Key (maybe needed for the Throttle stop screw)
Small socket and ratchet


This can be performed by yourself,without help,no problem.

This is being done on a d16y4.

The screws you need are 16mm long and 5mm wide,metric thread,with a dome head.Definately both d and b series engines use this screw.

16x5 Metric thread with a dome head:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_1314.jpg

Steps:

Remove the Throttle body -

4 bolts
3 sensors that just unplug (TPS,Map and IACV)
2 coolant hoses on the bottom,unclip the metal clamp and pull the hose off.A little coolant will run out,perfectly fine.If you don't want to loose the coolant,plug the hoses up.
Accelerator cable (and gearbox cable if an automatic)

Give it a clean:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_0910.jpg

If your tps is riveted on,U can hacksaw them off,dont need a grinder OR U can cut a line/groove down the middle for the screwdriver then remove it and re-use it:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy25/beeza4/100_2935.jpg

Use a screwdriver to tap the thread left in there out:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_0673.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_0675.jpg

There She blows!

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_0681.jpg

The Tps gasket is torn but it wont matter at all,so I will re-use it:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_0682.jpg

Now,clean the whole Throttle body up,I only use Suburu Upper engine cleaner to clean with now OR another product which I reckon is subi upper engine cleaner in another bottle is 'Engine conditioner',it's a Japanese product,i.e Japanese writing on the bottle and it's brilliant.Carby cleaner is crap.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_0684.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_0686.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_0687.jpg

Map Sensor:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_0696.jpg

Intake Air Control Valve (IACV),Clean that up real good!

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_0909.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_0908.jpg

Let it all dry out:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_0698.jpg

Time to get them screws!

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_0710.jpg

IMPORTANT: When U put it back together,make sure that little plastic doova on the tps goes between those 2 metal bits.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy25/beeza4/100_1210.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy25/beeza4/100_1211.jpg

Put it all back together:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_0911.jpg

Next,is to adjust the throttle cable..This is done by undoing these 2 nuts and tensioning the cable:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_1192.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_1193.jpg

At Closed Throttle (CT) the cable needs to be firm but not tight.At Wide Open Throttle (WOT) when the pedal hits the floor should be the same time as the Throttle body Wide Open Throttle stop (WOT) is contacted,therefore there is no significant load on the cable nor the WOT stop:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_1341.jpg

The WOT stop varies in design but the exact same principle.I know on the b18c it's on the bottom.

The easiest way to achieve this is to put your foot to the floor (WOT) and check the above.If there is a gap,the cable needs to be tensioned to close the gap.If the TB WOT stop is contacted before the pedal hits the floor,you need to loosen the cable off a bit.

Here's a VIDEO of the end result.A nice firm cable.When the accelerator pedal makes contact with the floor,is the same time the TB WOT stop is contacted,Beautiful!:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/th_TCStopandWOTstop.jpg (http://s99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/?action=view&current=TCStopandWOTstop.flv)

OK.Now the fun part.On the TPS sensor,there are 3 wires - Yellow,red and green (all with a black stripe)

Red is Positive and Green is Negative.

I inserted the pin through the wire but I have learnt that the better way to save damaging the wire is to stick the pin up into the plug where the wire connects to the plug,as so:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/Pin.jpg

[beeza]

Now,turn the car keys turned to the second click,so the lights on the dash come on.Then perform these tasks -

Set your multi meter to volts.We are looking for a range of 0-5 Volts,so the 20V setting is best:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_1145.jpg

Positive probe to positive wire and negative probe to negative wire:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_0919.jpg

Note: You can wedge the probes under something to stay on the pins,without the need to hold them.This will allow you to do this by your self.


THESE VOLTAGES ARE THE SAME FOR ALL HONDA'S

0.48V @ CT (Closed Throttle)

4.5V @ WOT (Wide Open Throttle)

Now,hold the Throttle plate at WOT:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_1341-1.jpg

And turn the TPS until you get 4.5V on the multi meter:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_0927.jpg

Then tighten it back down:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_0929.jpg

Re-check the setting haven't changed after tightening the TPS.

After you have done that,check the voltage at CT (Closed Throttle).This is where the TS screw (Throttle stop) will need to be adjusted to set the CT Voltage.

If you have a value greater than 0.48V,you will need to wind the TS screw out to open/increase the voltage range.If it's less,wind it in/up to close the gap/range.

Throttle Stop screw on the d16y4,from behind:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_1141.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_1142.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_1136.jpg

Adjust it like this with an Allen key:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_1139.jpg

Under here:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_1210.jpg

Firstly you will need to undo the nut on there to be able to turn the screw.Make sure the nut is tightened up when you set the values.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_1316.jpg

Undo/tighten the TS screw until you get a 0.48V Value for CT.

TIP: When you tighten the nut up with the ratchet,the voltage will increase slightly by 0.01V-0.02V.So,adjust the TS screw with the allen key to 0.46V-0.47V value and tighten the nut up good with your ratchet.This way you will get the required 0.48V and a tight nut on the TS screw!

Now,re-check the WOT value.I bet it has moved? It maybe at 4.52 for example.So CT is at 0.48 and WOT at 4.52,so the range is 0.02 too much.So we need to close the range in by 0.02.Do this via the TS screw.Turn it up to 0.50.Then set WOT again at 4.5V by turning the TPS until you see this value,tighten it back down.CT should now be 0.48V and WOT at 4.5V.



VIDEO:

This is the final result,a perfectly set up accelerator pedal and Throttle body,performing at it's best!

You can hear CT and WOT stop's being contacted.The pedal feels perfect.At the same time the pedal is contacting with the floor,the WOT stop is being contacted on the Throttle body.At CT there is no significant 'load' on the pedal but there is tension in the cable,keeping the pedal firm with no free play.Perfect.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/th_TpsCTandWOTVoltageset.jpg (http://s99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/?action=view&current=TpsCTandWOTVoltageset.flv)

Between the TS screw,moving the TPS and the tensioning the accelerator cable and a bit of patience,this can be achieved.

Note: If your car is an automatic and you cant get both value's,your gearbox cable maybe too tight and restricting movement,like mine was.I could get 0.48V but Wide Open Throttle was 4.33V.I loosened off the gearbox cable and I could get 0.48V and 4.5V easily.The cable was restricting movement.

You will need to loosen off the cable to free up some movement,it's the same set up as the accelerator cable:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_1326.jpg

If your automatic 'kicks' into gear,like too much then your gearbox cable is too tight,Loosen it off.

Also,be wary your carpet under the accelerator pedal may be restricting the pedal and may need to be removed like mine did to get a better pedal.

If U get WOT,4.5V and can only get say 0.52V for CT.This means U need to increase the range at which the throttle plate moves by 0.04V.To do this U can simply file a small amount off the throttle rotor,like this:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy25/beeza4/100_2919-1.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy25/beeza4/100_2923-1.jpg

Then set the WOT again first,then the CT,done!

After your done,set the idle via the idle air adjust screw.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_1125.jpg

Make sure the car is fully warmed up and simply turn the screw until the idle is where you want it.For a manual car,set the idle when the car is in neutral and for a automatic car,set the idle with the car in 'D'.It's 'D' that you will be sitting in at lights,so that's where you want to set it,not Park,'P'.

When you reset the ECU it will even the idle out.

Now we need to check that the values are the same at the ECU end.This will ensure the wires are fine and the ECU is seeing the same readings.

Remove the kick panel at the passengers feet to expose the ECU and wiring,1 clip and a bolt (How cool is the big march fly in the shot!):

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_0953.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_0951.jpg

Don't stab and ruin the wires like I did,stick the pins up into the connector,like this:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_1109.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_1099.jpg

Closed Throttle:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_1103.jpg

Wide Open Throttle (WOT):

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_1101.jpg

Also:

* Probe the Yellow and green wires to verify that you have 5v going to the TPS.

* Check the reading starts at 0.48V and smoothly increase to 4.5V,showing you have nice smooth throttle increase/decrease coming from the TPS to the ECU.This will verify the wiring between the TPS and ECU is fine.

VIDEO:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/th_100_1332.jpg (http://s99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/?action=view&current=100_1332.flv)

After you have completed that Reset the ECU (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67113) and bleed the air from your coolant lines.This can be done by parking your car on a hill so that the engine is the high point,this will allow the air to escape easier.Start the car up,pop the hood and undo the radiator cap,take it right off so you can watch the air escaping.Just let it idle for a few minutes (at least the fan comes on twice).Give the coolant hoses a squeeze to help the air escape.

Your car will run better with no air in the coolant system.

NOTE: If U experience a high idle that goes up to 2,000rpm and then drops off and keeps repeating this (as discussed on page 8),chances are the Throttle plate is a bit open and needs closing.First try screwing in the idle/air screw on the top,if that dosen't do the job,probably won't,you will need to screw the TS screw out to close the throttle plate.The CT voltage will read 0.44V or so when the idle stabilizes but don't worry it shouldn't affect the performance of the car as I am learning).

IF the idle persists to be erratic,i.e. quite bad then look to fix the problem via the FITV - You-Have-Cleaned-the-IACV-BUT-Your-Idle-Is-Still-High-Erratic-Adjust-The-FITV. (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?120938-You-Have-Cleaned-the-IACV-BUT-Your-Idle-Is-Still-High-Erratic-Adjust-The-FITV.)

Here is another GREAT DIY U can do aswell! Modifying-the-stock-Throttle-body-for-more-air-flow (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?132174-Modifying-the-stock-Throttle-body-for-more-air-flow&p=2732843#post2732843)

Enjoyz!

Still doubt how effective this is?

This is quoted from JohnL our very own resident Suspension Expert! (Taken from this (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120611) thread):


Yes it has definitely helped, the engine is significantly more 'drivable' now.Less clutch slippage is now needed on take off and some hills that used to need a downshift or largish throttle opening can now be driven up on a light throttle with no downshift. Downshift 'blips' are definitely more consistent / predictable with noticeably faster rpm rise.

I've been meaning to check this for ages, but since the engine was running acceptably I kept forgetting about it. I'm a bit surprised how much difference there is between 0.44v and 0.48v...


I can tell you that 0.04v below 0.48v is significant.


This seems most noticable when taking off from rest, appearing to require less clutch slippage with the engine feeling more 'muscular' at low rpm / light throttle opening. There also seems to be some improvement to throttle response when 'blipping' for 'rev matching' on downshift.


It's worked beyond expectations with my engine.

And....wait for it....


If the TPS CT voltage is off spec then the light throttle / low rpm torque will be adversely affected and the engine will be lacking in immediate response to lighter throttle inputs (and you spend 99% of the time at light throttle openings). This adversely affects the driveabilty of the car, and probably fuel economy as well.

Lack of low rpm torque is especially noticeable when taking off from rest, requiring more care / skill with balancing of the throttle input and clutch slippage because the engine is in greater danger of stalling.

You might think that if light throttle torque is poor then why not just open the throttle more, but this doesn't really work so well for 'normal' driving (you can get the same affect, but the engine feels like it's working a lot harder to achieve it). Having the TPS correctly calibrated can make the car much nicer to drive, particularly in traffic / around town.

I set CT to 0.51V and WOT at 4.53V for a week then put it back to 0.48 - BIG DIFFERENCE!

For Everything that I have ever learnt about Cars/honda's,this is by far the most important and effective.I wish everyone had this done already.Our Honda's would be tearing up the planet!

So skip the Hot chicks thread tonight for a change,read this a few times,get confident with it and....DO IT! :thumbsup:

:honda:

[hiroshifumi]

Nice

Always wondered how this is done :D

Just wondering if the values are the same with all honda engines? B16, B18 etc

[beeza]

Thanks mate.I'm pretty sure they are but I will need to check with the teach first (CRXer :) ).

[CRXer]

gee,i dont know beez,

its generally about the 0.5V closed>>>> 4.5V WOT range.
be good idea to consult the service manual for your particular motor u want to "calibrate"
i just use a data-logger & even if it was outta spec it can be just re-calibrated in the software,so no idea about voltage values beez,sorry,not even for my own tps lol.

im surprised the Y4 uses those values & it wasnt like totally reversed or something,in keeping with the rest of its design principles.
best to get an obd2 scanner(if your on obd2 of course) that gives sensor readings & calibrate it with that to see if ecu is indeed reading 0% > 100% throttle.

but if u can find the factory voltage figures for your tps then u should be fine.

if your having tps problems,good thing to check first is that your getting a good 5V reference volatge from the ecu across the yellow & green wires at the tps plug.
then go onto check the signal voltage back to the ecu across the red & green wires.

that idle valve beez,got any pics of the other bit that attaches to it?
is it a 3 wire plug that attaches?
must be one of those stepper types.

btw "calibrate" all your "corobarilaratededserers"

[beeza]

That word owns me!! :)

Cheers mate! I was gonna add the 5V reading but kept it simple,I understand you need to check it though and will add it in.

I'll get a pic of the sensor up on tuesday.

Thanks Teach! :)

[beeza]

It was only 1 calibrate incorrectly spelt :)

btw did you like the Big March Fly in the shot hahahahaaa

[CRXer]

the fly is fly,he's like totally flyin....spin out...

▼▼▼ tags? ▼▼▼

[ECU-MAN]

make sure you use soft jaws when putting the TB in a vice.

Nice DIY Beeza

[redefine]

so why is doing this so great, and what does it do??

im gonna do it when i get some carby cleaner.

[beeza]

the fly is fly,he's like totally flyin....spin out...

▼▼▼ tags? ▼▼▼

True true :D


make sure you use soft jaws when putting the TB in a vice.

Nice DIY Beeza

Cheers John!

Will add to thread :thumbsup:


so why is doing this so great, and what does it do??

im gonna do it when i get some carby cleaner.

Taken from 1st post:

"I was very impressed with the difference this made to my car.More responsive accross the whole rev range,smooth revving and makes for a far enjoyable car to drive.
I have been meaning to do this DIY for a while cause it made such a nice difference to my car's acceleration
If your car is 10 years old,you should definately do this if you want better performance."

[beeza]

that idle valve beez,got any pics of the other bit that attaches to it?
is it a 3 wire plug that attaches?
must be one of those stepper types.

Yo Jase!

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_0968.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_0970.jpg

[redefine]

yeah i read that...what i meant was what exactly does a miscalibrated sensor do to the ecu to take away response

[beeza]

Not sure redefine.The Tps would be sending the ecu figures that are not correct,so throttle response would be 'out of whack' - To use technical terms :)

Can anyone give a better description?

[CRXer]

wheres the bit that the plug your holding plugs into?
fk me,ive all of a sudden taken an interest & starting to get Y4 disease....
stop it beez!!!

[beeza]

Ain't nuttin' wrong with the y4!

I Love havin' the underdog and auto at that! :p

I'll get a pic up!

[beeza]

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/beeza2/100_1013.jpg

That's the best I could do cause of the limited space.

[beeza]

Does anyone know if the Tps screws are the same for d and b series?

[beeza]

Thread Updated!

[Gio]

Fark beez. Nice write up bro. You always have such in depth DIY's.

You beez, are the king of the y4. Nice and detailed too.

Gio.

[beeza]

haha Thanks mate!

[redefine]

lol u've convinced me to stick with the y4 beez :D

btw, guna do this at some point. what size screws do you need to put the tps back on??

[beeza]

lol u've convinced me to stick with the y4 beez :D

btw, guna do this at some point. what size screws do you need to put the tps back on??

That's Great :thumbsup:

I'll get back to ya on the screws :honda:

[beeza]

lol u've convinced me to stick with the y4 beez :D

btw, guna do this at some point. what size screws do you need to put the tps back on??

Thread updated!

[redefine]

sweet. thanks man. will let you know how it turns out :thumbsup:

[beeza]

OK.

The Final update is done from new knowledge gained.

Done!

:thumbsup:

[bennjamin]

title updated on you , baby !

[beeza]

Thanks Benny Boy!!

[beeza]

My car holds it's Speed/RPM/gear,up a hill,no worries! Before it would loose RPM,I would have to kick it back gears and floor it to make the hill,even when I attacked the hill,Dammit!

NOW,FORGET ABOUT THAT! Now I Kick it back to the selected gear and hold my foot in the one position/selected RPM and it holds it!!!! An Awesome feeling,especially when other cars,modern cars even,are dying out at the top of the hill and your just holding your speed/RPM (on the speed limit offcoarse) cruising past them without trying :)

The hilly road I'm talking about I drive on everyday,so I know EXACTLY the difference this has made.

[mocchi]

beeza, your diy explanation is just like how a chef would explain his/her signature dish. artistic and tempting!
made me want to do this diy!!!!!!!! arrrrrr!

[beeza]

Thanks mocchi!

Anymore talking it up and I would be flogging a dead horse :)

My car is a different car,Just Awesome aye.

[Ashwee]

Definitely going to have to give this a go - having some of these symptoms and no luck diagnosing. Thanks for the great info.

[beeza]

Your welcome Ashwee!!

Good on ya,great to hear mate.

It seems the majority of people on here would rather cover there car in carbon fibre wrap than make it perform at it's best,Go figure aye considering I started from scratch with this,nothing.Now,I'm spoon feeding it to other's and I would say most are saying 'Hmmm,too hard' and not even trying.

Come on,do this already!! Just follow the carefully layed out steps and you cant go wrong!

[beeza]

I did this to a b18c2 yesterday,no probs!!

[imratedpg]

seems good shud do this for me :angel: haha

[beeza]

U should do it YOURSELF.ALL the steps are layed out there,any probs PM me.

Or better yet,when ya go to do it,PM me and I'll give you my mobile if ya get stuck but you shouldn't,the DIY has been carefully planned and layed out to avoid confusion.

[DEMON83]

good stuff! keep it up

[beeza]

Thanks Leighton!!

LOVE ya Aviator pic mate!!!

SEXY AS :)

[beeza]

So,anyone done this yet?

[tiksie]

I did, but it didn't make a noticeable difference for me on the b16a :/

[beeza]

Did you do exactly as in the DIY Tiksie?

So when the pedal hits the floor at the same time the throttle plate makes contact with the WOT stop,with a reading of 4.5V

At idle there is no free play in the pedal or accelerator cable and the throttle plate makes contact with the throttle stop screw with a reading of 0.48V

Adjust the idle via the idle screw and reset the ECU?

Also make sure the timing is set correctly.

What were the readings before?

I`m almost convinced something was not done correctly.

[tiksie]

Did everything the right way dude :) Nothing changed (I Didn't feel a change anyway).

[beeza]

Damn,do U know the voltages before?

What engine is yours tiksie.

I`m suprised aye.

[tiksie]

Jdm b16a

Yeah voltages were off before by about 0.05 - 0.10

[beeza]

Cheers Tiksie.

[beeza]

Anyone else done this yet or are ya'll lazy bones? :)

[ewendc2r]

doing it tomorrow actually ...

[beeza]

Oh,great to hear man,cheers.

Any questions PM me and hopefully I can help! :)

[B16]

Just done this as I have been having partial throttle problems on the highway. Like a bloody noob though I forgot to check the voltage before. Will be going for a run later so fingers crossed. Only got 4.49 WOT though, couldn't be bothered after 4 trys to get closer!, CT is spot on though :)

BY THE WAY: My b16 TPS was not rivited on (much to my dissapointment :p ) it was afixed by two 6 point star fastners, luckily I had the right bit for my mulittool :p

[beeza]

Oh sweet that makes it easier!

So it's under by 0.01,so the TS screw can be screwed out so at CT it reads 0.47.Then recalibrate it to 0.48 and WOT should be 4.5.

Great to hear!!

[EK4 Phil]

Did this DIY on Saturday,

Worked great, Have heaps better throttle control and better gear changes because the RPM match's correctly.

I did a before check on the voltage, it was CT:0.50 WOT:4.6 so it was a bit out. My idle is now a bit high around 1k RPM even after changing the idle screw. I might have to adjust the throttle cable again and redo it, should be alright after this.

But in any case after doing this DIY the car is more responsive, feels faster and get better gear changes because of rev matching being more accurate.

Also something you might want to add to bleed the air from the coolant. It's a bit different on each engine even on the b's. ie mine B16A2 you don't actually have a bleed valve so you need to just open the radiator cap and turn the car on until the fan comes on twice. Did the trick for me.

[beeza]

Awesome Phil,great to hear mate!

I was getting a spare y4 IM and TB ready for this yesterday and the tps wasn't riveted on either,go figure.Some are,some aren't...

I dare the TB cable will need to be loosened a touch like U said to get the idle at 800-900rpm.Then re-check the voltages again.

I know it can be fidley getting the voltages spot on but do it,it's worth it.

Bleeding air from the coolant is a good little trick to do every now and then but it dosen't relate to this DIY though.But well worth doing!

[EK4 Phil]

Ah I forgot to say in regards to the bleeding air from the coolant, I had to do it because you undo a few coolant hoses from the TB and IACV and I had some air in mine so it caused a bouncing idle after it was warm and a bit of driving.

[beeza]

Ah YES!

Offcoarse offcoarse!!

Thank U,I will add it in :)

[beeza]

Done!

Thanks again Phil for that mate!

[Limbo]

just wondering did this make a difference with a tuned ECU?
or has the tuned ECU already taken into account of the incorrect values already on your TPS?

I might just mark mine & put it back to normal after a clean, cos i think the car would be tuned for whatever the setting is now.


Just done this as I have been having partial throttle problems on the highway. Like a bloody noob though I forgot to check the voltage before. Will be going for a run later so fingers crossed. Only got 4.49 WOT though, couldn't be bothered after 4 trys to get closer!, CT is spot on though :)

BY THE WAY: My b16 TPS was not rivited on (much to my dissapointment :p ) it was afixed by two 6 point star fastners, luckily I had the right bit for my mulittool :p

[vinnY]

weird i got it all spot on 0.48v at ct and 4.5v at wot
now the throttle plate is too open and it holds it at 2krpm :confused:

thought i might add i have an aftermarket throttle body, had to adjust it out to about 0.32v until it would idle without being affected by the open butterfly

[TheSaint]

if there are screws holding it in place - can u just take it off without having to take the TB and all that off as well?

also would it be easier/more beneficial to just buy a new one? for example i think blox make one

[vinnY]

^ you talking about the tps?
if it already has screws then you can just loosen, adjust, tighten

and just an fyi for everyone
0.44-0.56v on CT is within range
4.14-4.82v on WOT is within range
according to the 98-01 teg manual

i ended up with 0.5v on CT and 4.72v on WOT on my 65mm tb from professional products 0.48/4.5v config didn't quite work out for me

http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/102/screenshot97y.jpg (http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/102/screenshot97y.jpg)

[beeza]

weird i got it all spot on 0.48v at ct and 4.5v at wot
now the throttle plate is too open and it holds it at 2krpm :confused:

thought i might add i have an aftermarket throttle body, had to adjust it out to about 0.32v until it would idle without being affected by the open butterfly

The butterfly should be closed at idle.

When ya adjusted it out to 0.32v,did you do that via the throttle stop screw or the tps?

I assume ya tried bringing the idle down via the idle screw?


if there are screws holding it in place - can u just take it off without having to take the TB and all that off as well?

also would it be easier/more beneficial to just buy a new one? for example i think blox make one

If it already has screws in it,you can skip the first part of the DIY and go straight to setting the voltages.No need to remove it and no need to replace it if it ain't faulty.This DIY is to calibrate the voltages as they go out over time.

I would certainly recommend taking it off and cleaning it up though.

[vinnY]

with the tps set to 4.5v@WOT i could only get the idle voltage up via the throttle stop screw

double checked my manual and it appears my current figures are within range anyway so i'll run with that
just putting it out there that 0.48v@CT and 4.5v@WOT isn't the only figures it should be at

[beeza]

Cheers Vin! Interesting.

U couldn't get the idle down via the idle screw?

[vinnY]

nah idle did squat for me
admittedly i am running crome and idle is set to 1k because of the buddyclub cams, it will idle but if i tap the throttle and the idle screw is screwed too far in the revs drop too low and will almost stall before it picks up again

[beeza]

Gotcha.

It seams like your set up yeilds different voltages but saying that,there's that print out from the manual...

That's a MASSIVE range of voltages on there...

When U got the final voltages,how did U come to them? It's within that range but certainly a certain setting will yeild greater results.Strange.

What car/engine is your's Vin?

[vinnY]

yeah no idea, did some reading on h-t and it appears some of the guys favour 0.5v@CT and 4.5v@WOT mark so i figured if i have the CT set correctly as long as the WOT is still within range it's okay

just running an ek b18c7 tuned on crome

[beeza]

Cheers Vin,very interesting.I would like to know more about that print out in the manual,I mean everything I have learnt about it is that when it's spot on,it goes great guns,seems strange they give a big range like that.

Hmmmmmmmmmm

[vinnY]

yeah weird stuff, surprised no one else has run into this trouble
then again i seem to be the only one running a non stock throttlebody in this thread

[beeza]

Well that manual gives a 'range' but not an optimal setting,and there's gotta be one! right?! and I'm sure they are 0.48V and 4.5V.

U have 0.5V and 4.72V,so there's enough range there for the above voltages.

I had to loosen off my 'kick down cable' to gain some more range of voltage.Maybe try tightening that cable up a bit?? (if ya have one)

Hard without the car here...

[vinnY]

nah that's the thing, i can adjust it to 0.48v and 4.5v but it just ends up with my throttle body opening too much
same thing with tightening the throttle cable, all it would do is open up the throttle plate anyway

[beeza]

It's gotta be that TB then.It's an after market one yeah,not a bored out stock one?

[vinnY]

nah it's a 65mm professional products one, not bored out oem

[beeza]

Well,as long as the car is going tops! :)

[EK1 Civic]

Plan to do this tomorrow will degreaser be fine to clean the iacv and TB bits and pieces? i got like 2 cans spare from when i cleaned my engine so wondering if i would have to go down to supercheap for some carby cleaner. BTW that electric tester thing you used, can something similar be purchased from supercheap?

[EK1 Civic]

far out so hard just to take the bottom left nut off, i cant even turn it because when the socket just fits in, its touching this hard piece of plastic tubing that i think is connected to the fuel. Been trying to get it out for like 30mins LOL, anyways bak to work.

[EK1 Civic]

Hey beeza just a tip for you to update your DIY. The rivets aren't actually rivets, they are screws without a head on them. basically get a hack saw and hack a straight line deep enough for a flat head screw driver to unscrew. You can then re-use the piece to calibrate the tps.

[beeza]

Thanks mate!

The degreaser ya probably found out is ok...carby cleaner is better,but Suburu UEC is the best I reckon.

What bottom left screw is that? Did U try and take the IACV off with the TB still on? That's sooooo hard,best to take the TB off to get the IACV off.

Thanks for that tip mate.

[EK1 Civic]

Thanks mate!

The degreaser ya probably found out is ok...carby cleaner is better,but Suburu UEC is the best I reckon.

What bottom left screw is that? Did U try and take the IACV off with the TB still on? That's sooooo hard,best to take the TB off to get the IACV off.

Thanks for that tip mate.

Bottom left screw from the Tb, u know how theres 2 screws and 2 nut things. Had trouble getting the bottom left one off with the space provided xD

Trying to undo the CT nut to turn the screw. All my socket pieces are to big and then i got 2 which are to small LOL =/ Might have to finish this off 2morro. I did get the WOT voltage on 4.50.

[beeza]

Oh brilliant well done,U should be able to 'crack' the TS screw with the allen key.There's 2 small dabs of a glue that binds that small nut on there to the TB.

Yeah thats the bolt,not screw..it's all about having the right tools,I use a socket with a long extension for that one,and the other bottom bolt,so there's room to turn it.

I forgot to answer before but sounds like ya got a multimeter,supacheap should sell em'!

Awesome stuff mate!!

Now to 'Go all the way!' :) - Free power! (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?132174-Modifying-the-stock-Throttle-body-for-more-air-flow&p=2732843#post2732843)

[EK1 Civic]

Oh brilliant well done,U should be able to 'crack' the TS screw with the allen key.There's 2 small dabs of a glue that binds that small nut on there to the TB.

Yeah thats the bolt,not screw..it's all about having the right tools,I use a socket with a long extension for that one,and the other bottom bolt,so there's room to turn it.

I forgot to answer before but sounds like ya got a multimeter,supacheap should sell em'!

Awesome stuff mate!!

Now to 'Go all the way!' :) - Free power! (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?132174-Modifying-the-stock-Throttle-body-for-more-air-flow&p=2732843#post2732843)

Cant u just twist the nut off and it would break the glue? and then twist the screw with your finger? I cbf modifying my stock tb for more airflow, rather leave it stock so i don't damage anything. Going to learn how to change coolant fluid/mt fluid and add a CAI feed for the stock box once i'm done doing the CT voltage.

[beeza]

Yes U can do that but not really by hand,U would need a small shifter at least.U might be able to twist the screw by ya finger but depends on the screw,it might be tight and need the allen key to turn it,U will need the allen key anyways to be precise with the turning as to get the calibration right!

Maybe U can do the other mod later when U are more confident but it's not hard,the DIY covers everything.I have a y4y7/maybe y1 TB for sale here (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?131988-EK-d16y4-and-other-parts.-Check-it-out!) that would be perfect for the mod.

What engine do U have?

With the coolant fluid,if U change it yourself U will be just changing the coolant in the radiatorand a small amount from the hoses,i.e. there is still a lot of coolant in there that hasn't been changed.The other way is to take it to a radiator shop and for $130 they will 'reverse flush' it all out,cleaning all the crap out that builds up because it's it reverse,this is great to do once if its never been done and ya car has at least 80-100,000 k's on it say.After that once U can just change it by ya self knowing ya coolant is in great health!

The mt fluid,I recommend to jack the car up on the side,so its on a mad angle as to help the last of the fluid out,then pour a bit of new fluid in there to help flush the old fluid out.This helps to get the dirty fluid that is at the bottom out.

So stoked ya done this mate,that's a hell of a lot more for what I can say about most if not all 'pros' on here.They are just like 'Ah,ya don't need to do that' to me that says 'No,U cant show me what I dont know,I will REJECT it!' Ahahahahaaa that's just ego,too much ego on here,which is ashame cause Ozhonda is the best car site of em' all!!! No bloody wonder the other's just suck.Cars,ego,ego,cars,hard to seperate them a lot of the time unfortunately.

[EK1 Civic]

Kinda stuck on money atm, got driving lessons, P's coming in 4 weeks. New rego in a month to pay. =/ getting the car set, so it runs tip top for when i get my P's and its my daily drive. It barely gets driven 2-3 times a week as it is xD its got 104,000km on the odo.

Got a picture of an Allen key? i got one but i don't see how it helps, least i think i got one it came with my desk chair to tighten up the screws with tat hexagon indentation. The allen key has no hole to grab the nut and twist it out =/

I got the same engine as you, d16y4. Changed the coolant today, weird thing is it stays at 1800 revs and goes to 1200 or a tad less and bounces back and fourth. I think airs still stuck but i did leave it with the cap off, i didn't hear any fans turn on though. Is the bouncy idle due to the fact of having air in the system? Its my guess but im unsure atm. Flushed the radiator to, if tat helps. I posted a thread in the noob forum with a better description. http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?135879-Coolant-Radiator&p=2794135#post2794135

[beeza]

Just google image 'allen key'

I haven't heard of air causing that..

It sounds like it's the FITV that needs adjusting - http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?120938-You-Have-Cleaned-the-IACV-BUT-Your-Idle-Is-Still-High-Erratic-Adjust-The-FITV.

Wait,did U already clean the IACV out?

[EK1 Civic]

I cleaned out everything since i took apart the TB. Only happened once i flushed the radiator and changed the coolant. I'll tell you tomorrow if i fix the problem and how it drives since i've finished the tps voltages.

[beeza]

I would park the car on a steep inclne,front to the top of the hill (helps the air out by rising to the top/radiator), ,start the car,take off the radiator cap,and let all the bubbles of air out,sqeeze/pump the coolant hoses to help out the trapped air.Do this until the air stops,may take 10-15 minutes.

[EK1 Civic]

Done this and it still revs and de-revs from 1800-1200 and the fan came on 5 times... I'm thinking since i haven't driven the car in two weeks it may have lost pressure in the coolant hoses? I'll take it for a spin tonight and see how it goes. However i did it on a flat surface. If after the drive it continues, ill try again tomorrow on and inclined surface aka my driveway xD Trying to upload a video but i cant find the cable for my fkn fone :(

[beeza]

Sounds the throttle plate is a bit open.

First try the idle screw,U may be able to screw it in and control that idle that way.

OR

The TS screw is holding the throttle plate open,in which case,just wind it out until it settles.The CT voltage will be lower but dosen't matter as long as it's idling fine and going fine.This happened on Timmy's car and the CT voltage was 0.43 and WOT 4.5 but it did not affect the performance.

Stay positive mate! All this will learn ya good! :)

[EK1 Civic]

I'll take off the intake arm tomorow and check if the plate is open. I didn't get the issue till i changed the coolant though. But ill try it out. This is what is happening to my car atm.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mWEqSfq_r-Y BTW it only occurs once the engine is warmed up, once its cold it just keeps a solid 1800 revs as its warming up. If it sounds the same as what happened to your mates car, then please lemme know, ill be fixing it tomorrow and hopefully it runs tops :D

ALSO if i removed the TS screw and throttle cable, then the plate inside the TB would be 100% closed wouldn't it? Ill try just taking them two off to see if the issue persists or its gone.

[beeza]

I have no audio atm..

But just try what I said,if it's not that I reckon the FITV next.

[EK1 Civic]

Ended up being the throttle plate, i got WOT at 4.50v and CT at 0.44v. Max setting i could get without the plate beginning to open. Thanks for the help beeza, learned alot from this DIY. Learnt how to bleed the radiator, calibrate the TPS, adjust throttle cable and if plates open during idle it has bouncy revs xD. Maybe you could copy the video link into the DIY pointing out the fact is this happens its the result of the throttle plate being open during idle. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mWEqSfq_r-Y

Going for a test run tonight, nice DIY champ :D

[EK1 Civic]

The car runs so different now, i have to use the pedal less, the responce is amazing, even when i put the foot down it goes even harder then before. I tested going up a hill to see for improvement, basically went in gear 3, 42kms at about 1700 revs and it held it the whole time without having to push the pedal any further. Feels like my lil civic has been reborned. Amazing DIY props to u beeza :D

[beeza]

Thanks so much mate.

It's amazing what I can learn if one is open and willing,i.e. Can put the ego to one side.

Excellent.Very well done!!

:)

I'll update the thread when I get a chance.

[saad]

Cant wait to try this!

My idle is really random - when you start the car untill its warm its liek 2500RPM, then it drop to 800-900 rpm later, and then wil randomly increase and dcrease. Will doing this maintenance fix this?

[vinnY]

might wanna have a stab at this (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?4693-IACV-clean-check-!&highlight=iacv) then

[stevo716]

excellent write up man, need to calibrate my tps again as i broke mine, forgot the figures,
great detail in the write up great work
thanks xD
good to see ppl sharing hahah

[beeza]

Thanks mate :)

[stevo716]

just calibrated today, like to vouch how much diff this makes,
soo much more throttle response and power in a higher gear, like say make a turn 30kph in 2nd and power down it actaully picks up didnt use to
ill let u know bout fuel economy i was gettin pretty shotty fuel economy bout 350 a tank, ill let know how it goes next week

[zropts]

Tested the plug wires (green and red) on TPS when plugged in and turned the ignition to second click. No voltage reading. Can this be the TPS is gone?

[beeza]

If it was U would have know it I'm sure.I mean I haven't experienced a faulty tps but I'm sure U will know if it was buggered.

I think U haven't probed the wires properly..

[zropts]

Yes with no reading the TPS is gone! I got the new TPS... I calibrated it to 4.5V at WOT with a reading of 0.85V at CT (and I took TS screw off) best setting I could get. When I adjust the TS screw up, it makes the CT reading of 0.85V going higher. I adjust the TS screw down to the lowest point and I only get 0.85V. How can the CT be calibrated to get <0.85V?

Engine: Stock TB & JDM B18C

[beeza]

So the tps was gone? Was the car acting funny/different?

At WOT does the throttle rotor contact the contact plate? (i.e. as far as it can go?)

[zropts]

Yes the TPS was gone thus no voltage reading last time. The car feels a little bit more responsive but the car still jerks. I guess I got 1 part of the problem fixed but not the complete problem.

Yes at WOT, the throttle plate touches the contact plate. Throttle cable set firm.

[beeza]

Gotcha!

So,at CT is there any load/tension in the accelerator cable? (shoulda asked that before..) There should be none.

[zropts]

No load or tension when at CT.

I set my TPS now on CT at about 0.53V and WOT at 4.17V. This is the best reading I could get within the range in the 98-01 Teg manual.

As before I can get WOT at 4.5V but CT will be 0.85V which the voltage cannot be adjusted down due to the TS screw. The TS screw can only adjust the voltage 'UP'.

I can also achieve CT at 0.48V but then WOT is at roughly 3.86V therefore I cannot adjust WOT voltage up.

[beeza]

Something is not right..

The range needs to be increased.

Your car isn't an automatic is it?

Hmmmm

[zropts]

No, its Manual.

Also adjusting the tension on the cable does not affect any (CT & WOT) voltage readings.

[beeza]

Cool cool.

U can file down the throttle rotor,this will increase the range.

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?120191-DIY-Calibrating-the-Voltage-on-the-TPS

But 1st,I would take the TB off and make sure the throttle plate is opening 100% (and closing completely too,but this should be fine if the idle is fine).Hopefully it's not opening 100% and U can file down the rotor and get that range need back.

Like this:

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy25/beeza4/100_2906-1.jpg

When your CT is set the range is 0.64V short.

When your WOT is set the range is 0.37V short.

Hrmmmmmm...sounds like a cable tension problem..

I would check what I said above I reckon if U cant see anything else that could be causing this problem..

[EK1 Civic]

When i first did this, i didnt get a voltage reading, the pins werent shoved far enough into the tps. Tps might have not have failed on you. At first i thought i had the pins far enough and i wasnt getting any readings so i kinda moved the pin around and could push it in another 1.5cm or so and i got readings.

[zropts]

When i first did this, i didnt get a voltage reading, the pins werent shoved far enough into the tps. Tps might have not have failed on you. At first i thought i had the pins far enough and i wasnt getting any readings so i kinda moved the pin around and could push it in another 1.5cm or so and i got readings.

I didn't use pins... instead I cut the wires properly... lol... and then masked them up again. I got shi**y when I couldn't get a reading first by using pins so I just cut them and still no reading. Thats when I knew my TPS was gone!

[beeza]

How did your car run with the tps gone?

[beeza]

Dun worry,I just found my answer:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGAJ7w2OJrg

Yes,the tps is rooted.

[Mikecivic78]

Does TB gasket need to be replaced when doing this job?

[stevo716]

Does TB gasket need to be replaced when doing this job?
if its not ripped or nething u can reuse, otherwise yes

[Mikecivic78]

if its not ripped or nething u can reuse, otherwise yes

Thanks. Any idea on cost of gasket?

[stevo716]

Thanks. Any idea on cost of gasket?
eh 5 bucks if that

[Mikecivic78]

eh 5 bucks if that

Cheap As

Cheers mate

[stevo716]

Cheap As

Cheers mate

yeh paper gaskets are cheap

[beeza]

Dun worry,I just found my answer:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGAJ7w2OJrg

Yes,the tps is rooted.

The problem was the wires were mixed up,the map sensor and tps sensor wires were around the wrong way.


Does TB gasket need to be replaced when doing this job?

As steve said.I rang Honda yesterday and they dont sell tps gaskets cause the tps is riveted on and therefore will never be seen..

[beeza]

I'm really stoked this thread is getting views it deserves..not for the work i did but for the benefits this yields..hope Ya'll do it and the other DIY,modifying the TB for more airflow!

[DB8R]

Sorry for this being my 1st post been browsing and seen this post,

Recently my ECL came on with code 7 which was TPS replaced this but I can't seem to get the volts setting right on close it's reading 0.50v and on full throttle it reads 5.34v how do I go and set this up, am running 70mm Blox throttle body which I have not had any problems with previous TPS sensor

Dont no if am doing something wrong

Thanks for your help

[vinnY]

try to adjust for WOT first then tweak for a closed throttle

if you check a few posts back of mine I actually list a range, just as long as you're between there you should be right

[DB8R]

try to adjust for WOT first then tweak for a closed throttle

if you check a few posts back of mine I actually list a range, just as long as you're between there you should be right

Thanks for the reply,

I've done that too tried to set it at 4.5v on full throttle and close throttle was 0.02v started car ECL came which was again code 7 TPS so just put it back to 0.50v unless I've got another faulty TPS.

IACV valve has been replaced and cleaned I've disconnected this while car started and revs dropped does this mean it's working fine.

[vinnY]

how are you adjusting the tps for CT?

[beeza]

Cheers Vin!

Just make sure that little plastic doova is between the 2 metal bits too when U put the sensor on..(it's in the DIY) cause it can be easy to miss..

[DB8R]

how are you adjusting the tps for CT?

am doing that from throttle screw for C/T 0.50v and doing 4.5v on open throttle

[DB8R]

Cheers Vin!

Just make sure that little plastic doova is between the 2 metal bits too when U put the sensor on..(it's in the DIY) cause it can be easy to miss..

I will double check this just to make sure

Beeza just like to say you got some top guides been threw most of them keep them coming mate

[beeza]

Thanks mate,appreciate that :)

[DB8R]

Thanks mate,appreciate that :)

You most welcome mate

Another thing I wanted to ask when setting full throttle 4.5v does it have to be opened fully with pedal on the floor

[beeza]

U can set it in the engine bay holding the tb at WOT.

The pedal dosen't need to be on the floor,the tb just needs to be opening 100%.So from closed properly to 100% open.If these things are done first,it will make getting the voltages far easier/do-able.Also U know everything is mechanically at it's best/like it can from the factory.

When U put your foot down,the rotor makes contact on the tb.If the accelerator cable is clean and tensioned properly,U should be able to feel the click of the rotor when it hits the tb at WOT.

This is a great thing,cause it's real easy to feel when your at WOT and U therefore U dont feel the need to push your foot through the floor.

I find on my car I need to spray WD-40 every now and then on the cable/rotor/spring on the tb to keep that feeling there as it gets grimey and that feeling is lost.


Once U get the voltages,then U can play around with the cable tension to get the right feel..just making sure the voltages haven't changed when ya done!

[DB8R]

U can set it in the engine bay holding the tb at WOT.

The pedal dosen't need to be on the floor,the tb just needs to be opening 100%.So from closed properly to 100% open.If these things are done first,it will make getting the voltages far easier/do-able.Also U know everything is mechanically at it's best/like it can from the factory.

When U put your foot down,the rotor makes contact on the tb.If the accelerator cable is clean and tensioned properly,U should be able to feel the click of the rotor when it hits the tb at WOT.

This is a great thing,cause it's real easy to feel when your at WOT and U therefore U dont feel the need to push your foot through the floor.

I find on my car I need to spray WD-40 every now and then on the cable/rotor/spring on the tb to keep that feeling there as it gets grimey and that feeling is lost.


Once U get the voltages,then U can play around with the cable tension to get the right feel..just making sure the voltages haven't changed when ya done!


Thanks for the reply Beeza, I took off TPS to make sure that plastic doova is in 2 metal bits and rechecked V again I was still getting full throttle 5.41v, once it's on 5.41 I can not adjust TPS down any more (this is with pedal right to the floor) I will try above mate see how I get on. :thumbsup:

[beeza]

Frustrating without the car...just keep at it mate,U will find the problem soon enough.

Maybe a cable tension issue?

:)

[Peppy]

Hey Beeza, I'm not sure if you mentioned this (or have tried this) but I found that the easiest way to remove the TPS was to cut a line in the screw. I started it with the angle grinder and the thinnest disc I own, and after that the hacksaw would bite properly and not just jump around. When the groove was deep enough, they unscrewed so easily with . I guess JohnL was right when he suggested that. I've got a few pics if you want to adjust your DIY.

Btw, they were done almost well enought that I'd almost consider putting them back in, instead of replacing...

[dc2r-man]

The values i got with throttle closed is 0.49v and wide open throttle is 4.54v, are these values worth changing? or should i just leave it?

thanks

[dc2r-man]

doesnt any1 know?

[IV73CI]

The values i got with throttle closed is 0.49v and wide open throttle is 4.54v, are these values worth changing? or should i just leave it?

thanks


doesnt any1 know?






dude just leave it ..

your within the correct set TPS adjustments.

dont ****en change it or you'll have issues dude.

[dc2r-man]

dude just leave it ..

your within the correct set TPS adjustments.

dont ****en change it or you'll have issues dude.

Thanks thats what i wanted to know, whether changing it would make any difference or not!

[beeza]

Yup,close enough for horseshoes!


Hey Beeza, I'm not sure if you mentioned this (or have tried this) but I found that the easiest way to remove the TPS was to cut a line in the screw. I started it with the angle grinder and the thinnest disc I own, and after that the hacksaw would bite properly and not just jump around. When the groove was deep enough, they unscrewed so easily with . I guess JohnL was right when he suggested that. I've got a few pics if you want to adjust your DIY.

Btw, they were done almost well enought that I'd almost consider putting them back in, instead of replacing...

Oh,very nice!

Good one mate,cheers,will add it into the DIY!

[GU357]

definately trying this tomoro on the jazz, since i changed the tb the bitch doesnt wanna rev up properly

[tiksie]

I don't think the TPS on a fairly new car would be off enough to notice..

[GU357]

i changed my TB to a bigger one. so i had to recalibrate it.
now in my CVT honda jazz the idle speed is part of the tb u adjust the TB stop, but also when i calbriated so that .48v was foot off the car would lerch forward in D when i had my foot on the brake like the car wants to take off, because the clutch is engaged. its really wierd cause thats meant to be closed TB position. so i cant get correct response at fully open i had to calibrate it down so that off was more like .42V and fully open then subsequently became 4.42V which sucks. cant get this thing sitting properly.

[kraftycuts]

Just did this last night. It was on a spoon venturi TB.
However when I achieved 4.5v at WOT and 0.48 at CT, my butterfly gets stuck when closed?
gave it a good clean with throttle body cleaner suspecting carbon build up but it still gets stuck.
Its almost like I have to kick the accelerator pedal to open the throttle.

Another thing I noticed was that if I set the throttle cable tension so that it is WOT when the pedal hits the floor, I get alot of slack at CT.
Is it okay to have the throttle rotor hit WOT before the accelerator pedal hits the floor?

[grifty]

Just did this last night. It was on a spoon venturi TB.
However when I achieved 4.5v at WOT and 0.48 at CT, my butterfly gets stuck when closed?
gave it a good clean with throttle body cleaner suspecting carbon build up but it still gets stuck.
Its almost like I have to kick the accelerator pedal to open the throttle.

Another thing I noticed was that if I set the throttle cable tension so that it is WOT when the pedal hits the floor, I get alot of slack at CT.
Is it okay to have the throttle rotor hit WOT before the accelerator pedal hits the floor?

I get the same issue, when adjusting to 0.48 closed the tb plate gets stuck. I simply adjust the tb stop screw abit to stop it from sticking

[kraftycuts]

I get the same issue, when adjusting to 0.48 closed the tb plate gets stuck. I simply adjust the tb stop screw abit to stop it from sticking

Yeah i just went back and adjusted the TS screw and brought it up to 0.50.
I did some research and some people say they calibrate it from 0.50 CT to 4.5 WOT.

But this has definately made a massive difference in throttle response! I hardly have to push the pedal as far as I used to while cruising.

I also just adjusted the throttle cable tension so there is little play from the pedal before it actually opens the throttle plate.

[beeza]

Good stuff mate!!

Maybe cleaning it up will stop the sticking,it's in the corners where it gunks up that it will make it stick.

Clean it every so often,it helps to keep it smooth.

Best to clean it when U upper engine clean it with 'super engine conditioner' from 3 Bond.

Hello to Everyone!!!!!

[mocchi]

hello beeza!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

hehe

[beeza]

Hi mocchi!

Like ya avatar! :)

[mattmag71]

Thank you finished this on my EK1 98 hatch - she is purring and seems so much more responsive loving the Honda even more.

[Mikecivic78]

Thank you finished this on my EK1 98 hatch - she is purring and seems so much more responsive loving the Honda even more.

Well done mate. I am sure that Beeza would approve

[beeza]

I never get tired of hearing it :)

Good stuff Matt,thanks for posting,always makes me happy!!