Creaking clutch pedal [Euro]

[xxb4xx]

Well from a liberty b4 with a heavy duty clutch, the euro is like a feather..

I'm going to drown everything in thick lithium grease when I change the spring.. Make sure I killed it good.. Spring looks so tiny and stupid on these cars too.. Never the less, it will be drowned in grease too, and more than likely my car mats too

[tony1234]

Well from a liberty b4 with a heavy duty clutch, the euro is like a feather..

I'm going to drown everything in thick lithium grease when I change the spring.. Make sure I killed it good.. Spring looks so tiny and stupid on these cars too.. Never the less, it will be drowned in grease too, and more than likely my car mats too
Lithium grease is good.I don't have the squeaky clutch problem but every service i ask them to spray some in the MC fork area(or whatever it calls)just in case.

[aaronng]

Which spring is this??

[drezy]

i had this problem as well.. lubrication would only last a few days before creaking came back.... got the master cylinder replaced 6mths ago (my 120k service) and problem solved... creak hasnt come back.. yet.. touch wood..

[xxb4xx]

well..

I attempted to change the spring.. Then washed the car..
I again attempted the spring.. Instead detailed interior..
I again attempted the spring.. Instead polished the car by hand..

Finally after giving up, I went mechanic and paid him to do it, 1 hour later car was ready.. And... Fcuking creak is still there!!! But pedal comes up quicker LOL,

I drowned every component with lithium grease and now all is well.. The main shaft to the master cylinder and firewall seal got waterproof and heat/friction proof blue marine grease.. Including accelerator and the clutch spring..

[power_of_dreams]

got my master cyclinder replaced today under warranty.
what a relief....

[corn_flakes]

i was just lubing my motorcycle chain today and had an idea...

LOL what if i sprayed some of my chain lube stuff into the master clutch cylinder? it seems 'greasy' enough...

wonder if that will work? :)

[xxb4xx]

man I drenched mine with lithium grease, been like 2 weeks+ and not even a sign of creaking... Knock on wood

[corn_flakes]

i just sprayed some of my motorcycle chain lube into the cylinder and it has stopped creaking...lets see how long it will last...lol

[dtngo]

I picked up a Euro recently and also have the creaking noise. I'll try the greasing solutions from the thread.

The Euro's pedal feels harder than my old NX Coupe with a HD clutch. The NX also had a similar creaking and stiff pedal (notorious on NX and SSS's), which resulted in a snapped clutch cable after a while lol. Fark I thought my days of stiff creaking clutches was over lol.

[aaronng]

I picked up a Euro recently and also have the creaking noise. I'll try the greasing solutions from the thread.

The Euro's pedal feels harder than my old NX Coupe with a HD clutch. The NX also had a similar creaking and stiff pedal (notorious on NX and SSS's), which resulted in a snapped clutch cable after a while lol. Fark I thought my days of stiff creaking clutches was over lol.

Euros don't have clutch cable though, it's a hydraulic system. I have driven a range of Euros, some with a soft clutch pedal like mine and others with a really heavy one eventhough it is stock.

[dtngo]

lol, I know that :)

Need to get myself some grease!

[oongie]

Can Lithium grease from repco will do the job yeah?

[power_of_dreams]

just go into dealership and ask them to replace the master cylinder. easiest solution, no hassles

[xxb4xx]

Can Lithium grease from repco will do the job yeah?

Exactly what I used and no issue still!! Not even close,

Powerplus lithium spray grease FTW

[Phased]

The creaky clutch problem has been announced by Honda. If you look through your service history (if they kept all the receipts) you will find that there is a good chance it would of already been done.

Just looked through my service history and found the bullitin number.

Bullitin Number: SB015T04 (Faulty Clutch Master Cylinder)

[power_of_dreams]

The creaky clutch problem has been announced by Honda. If you look through your service history (if they kept all the receipts) you will find that there is a good chance it would of already been done.

Just looked through my service history and found the bullitin number.

Bullitin Number: SB015T04 (Faulty Clutch Master Cylinder)

unlikely they will fix it if you don't bring it up first.

[Ken-f]

Does this mean we can get it fixed even out of warranty for free?!

[Phased]

unlikely they will fix it if you don't bring it up first.

Lol. Of course not, I'm just stating that if your cars within warranty then you mention the creaky clutch and mention the bullitin number if they start talking trash.


Does this mean we can get it fixed even out of warranty for free?!

To my knowledge, no. If its a recall yes, however if it's just a bullitin dependant upon fault detection, I'm unsure if they will cover it.

[power_of_dreams]

Lol. Of course not, I'm just stating that if your cars within warranty then you mention the creaky clutch and mention the bullitin number if they start talking trash.



To my knowledge, no. If its a recall yes, however if its just an announcment dependant fault detection, I'm unsure if they will cover it.

yeah, you mentioned there is a good chance it may have already been done. I think if they did it, you would probably know about it because you brought it up in the first place. :confused:

[Phased]

yeah, you mentioned there is a good chance it may have already been done. I think if they did it, you would probably know about it because you brought it up in the first place. :confused:

Haha, I get what your saying. You may not if the car was second hand though :p

[Ken-f]

damn.......as i thought.

[power_of_dreams]

Haha, I get what your saying. You may not if the car was second hand though :p

That's true.
The first time I took it in the did some shitty lube job and claimed it was the cruise control trigger (it's a different sound, that is a click not a creak)

The second time they replaced the master cylinder. I asked the guy if this was a common problem, he said there were a few.

So it is defo something they know about. If your car is under warranty you should get it replaced no hesitation. I'm not sure what the go is if you are out of warranty, but I still think its worth a try.

[Phased]

That's true.
The first time I took it in the did some shitty lube job and claimed it was the cruise control trigger (it's a different sound, that is a click not a creak)

The second time they replaced the master cylinder. I asked the guy if this was a common problem, he said there were a few.

So it is defo something they know about. If your car is under warranty you should get it replaced no hesitation. I'm not sure what the go is if you are out of warranty, but I still think its worth a try.

You would think by posting a public bullitin they have admitted to a fault in their product. If the product is faulty then regardless of warranty they should replace it. However, as we all know. This isn't a perfect world.

[SPO73D]

Hmm, thought i would revive this thread.

So, do we all agree that the creaking clutch is a result of the master cylinder? and replacing this cylinder should fix the problem?

Oh, and how much are we looking at costing to replace it.

[Rob_A]

My mum and I both have or should I say had the creaking pedal issue.

Hers has had a master cylinder, clutch pedal bushes and as of last week had a pedal box replacement. All was done under warranty. Finally after having the pedal box replaced the noise is gone and feels much better. I had been complaining to honda at every service since 5000km and now its at close 120,000kms.

Mine isn't as bad as hers was, I can leave with it as I would hate to thing what a pedal box is worth.

Rob

[SRVTIR]

i had the same problem with my 03 model euro. It has a mass creek in the pedel and you could feel it within moving it within the engage point.

I took it to a mechanic and he llubed it. It worked fine for another week and kept creaping. I know for a fact that the issue wont go away unless you constantly lube it.. which isnt a problem for most men ;) wink wink

Now i have a 07 model euro, it creeks when its cold & not when its hot.. very weird.

So i got the h*&Ts and bought the Euro R pedals from JDM yard.. They look MINT!

[xxb4xx]

Hy guys..

I used silicone spray on mine, it's honestly been about 5 months and no creek since.. But I lubed it all, I even "lubed the shaft all the way into the firewall" lol.. Silicone spray seems to have done the job for now

[aaronng]

Hy guys..

I used silicone spray on mine, it's honestly been about 5 months and no creek since.. But I lubed it all, I even "lubed the shaft all the way into the firewall" lol.. Silicone spray seems to have done the job for now

What's what I do with mine. I spray in to the master cylinder while pressing down the clutch. Keeps the creak away for a few months.

[SPO73D]

What's what I do with mine. I spray in to the master cylinder while pressing down the clutch. Keeps the creak away for a few months.

For a Noob; anyone got like pics, or DIY into how to do this.

[Darkii_]

^ +1 if someone could take pics / use paint and make circles around the areas that should be lubed that would be great.

[aaronng]

Go look at your clutch pedal. There is a rod that goes from above the clutch pedal into the firewall. Where the rod goes into the firewall, spray there. Easy.

Here is a generic pic:
http://www.lieblweb.com/tacoma/Mechanical/ClutchPedal/Cotter.jpg

See where the rod is just to the bottom right of the green arrowhead? It goes into the firewall where the black ring is. That is where you spray. It is not black on the Euro, but it is still a ring where the rod goes into. Same thing.

Here is another pic:
http://www.automotivearticles.com/uploads/clutch_pedal_1_.jpg

Look where the arrow labeled "rod adjustment" points to. Follow the rod to the right in the pic into the firewall and you will see it goes through a ring. Spray into the ring.

[SPO73D]

Hectic, Great work from aaronng once again :thumbsup:

Can we use any kind of lube? or does it have to be silicone spray?

[aaronng]

Hectic, Great work from aaronng once again :thumbsup:

Can we use any kind of lube? or does it have to be silicone spray?

I've used silicone spray successfully. Don't use WD40, that damages the rubber seals.

[SPO73D]

Hmmm, Tried to give this a go, but couldnt really see the part of the car where it goes. i tried looking for the things in that pic, but there isnt much room from the top. I Jacked it up and still had no luck :(.

Im guessing we go in from under the car? and it would be the back half of the engine bay, but there isnt anything similar to the pics.

[aaronng]

Hmmm, Tried to give this a go, but couldnt really see the part of the car where it goes. i tried looking for the things in that pic, but there isnt much room from the top. I Jacked it up and still had no luck :(.

Im guessing we go in from under the car? and it would be the back half of the engine bay, but there isnt anything similar to the pics.

Nonono, it is in the driver's compartment. NOT in the engine bay. Put your head into where your pedals are, and look up.

[SPO73D]

Thanks, That was alot simpler than what I thought needed to be done :)

Creaking clutch gone, lets see for how long. Thanks Aaronng for hectically quick reply LOl.

[aaronng]

Thanks, That was alot simpler than what I thought needed to be done :)

Creaking clutch gone, lets see for how long. Thanks Aaronng for hectically quick reply LOl.

No problem. I find that if I drive daily, the creak goes away for a few months. But if I leave the car unused for a month, the creak comes back. Makes sense since everytime you press the clutch pedal, you are redistributing the silicone lube on the seal.

[xxb4xx]

Even a lube stick is good.. it looks like hardened vaseline.. works great too.

[aaronng]

Even a lube stick is good.. it looks like hardened vaseline.. works great too.

Not sure how to get it in the hole though. The gap is about 3-4mm only.

[xxb4xx]

Not sure how to get it in the hole though. The gap is about 3-4mm only.

Sorry dude, I meant for lubing the shaft itself, not actually going through the firewall, I combo'd the both, but the silicon spray has been a life saver so far..

Hey Aaron, I know your gonna read this reply :)

How long does the extension need to be to get to the plugs? or how long is the drop in?

[aaronng]

Sorry dude, I meant for lubing the shaft itself, not actually going through the firewall, I combo'd the both, but the silicon spray has been a life saver so far..

Hey Aaron, I know your gonna read this reply :)

How long does the extension need to be to get to the plugs? or how long is the drop in?

The rod doesn't touch any parts inside the master cylinder, so I don't think there is a need to lube it. I didn't lube my rod (man that sounds bad) and the creak still went away.

I use a 20 cm extension. The longer the better because you don't want to rub the ratchet on your rocker cover and scratch it. I bought a Superworksgold extension from Supercheap. Pretty good and even has a grip part so that you can turn it by hand even with a bit of grease on it.

[xxb4xx]

Awesome, thanks mate,

p.s I used to work at Supercheap and had some SuperGold parts.. then I worked at Bunnings and I upgraded everything to Sidchrome :)

Now I work at a bank and have soft hands like a poof.

[Ken-f]

No problem. I find that if I drive daily, the creak goes away for a few months. But if I leave the car unused for a month, the creak comes back. Makes sense since everytime you press the clutch pedal, you are redistributing the silicone lube on the seal.

Mines the other way. If i drive heaps, its more obvious. If i dont drive in a couple days, then its gone for a while.

[kitbkk]

I'll do the silicone spray too but I'll have to lose some of my beer belly first:p

[aaronng]

Mines the other way. If i drive heaps, its more obvious. If i dont drive in a couple days, then its gone for a while.

Then you need more lubing. I did mine by pressing the clutch pedal down as far as I can by hand, then spraying the silicone in using an extension nozzle into the gap. After that, pump the pedal a few times to distribute the lube.

[xxb4xx]

as said above, When I did mine, I drowned the living hell out of it, all the way inside and around..

[SRVTIR]

your just not lubricating enough ! :P lmao man i had to say it lol.. just sounds so wrong lmao

[rayd]

just had to add - i had this issue , and two days ago bought myself some silicone spray - 3 sprays and it the problem is completely gone! not fussed if it comes back - the can only cost $10 :D

amazing stuff!

[xxb4xx]

I'm honestly suprised not many people know about silicone spray, the stuff can be used anywhere you use wd40! But with less dirt and dust being attracted and works longer, also another great dry lube that many peeps don't know about is graphite powder.. For a dry lube it's awesome!

[kenshinfan1]

Hi guys had a humming noise in my tyre so i brought it in on thursday to get it checked out. No creaking clutch.

Got car back still had humming noise... burswood honda said nothing they can do about it as it was because of uneven trye wearing. When driving the car had creaking clutch!!!

Brought car back on friday they lubed it up. no creaking clutch BUT.... now the car is using alot of fuel 11L/100km on the computer, it is slow in going past 2000rpm (Unresponsive) car feels sluggish where as this morning when i brought it in it was damn responsive! wonder what they did to my car. everytime i get it back a new problem appears! NOT HAPPY

any one know of a common problem why the car is sluggish and consumes so much fuel.Before i got 8.2 and sometimes 7.6l/100km fuel economy. i have a manual and put in a full tank of BP ultimate 98ron. i wonder if they syphoned out my petrol...... and put crappy shit back in......

[Ken-f]

also another great dry lube that many peeps don't know about is graphite powder.. For a dry lube it's awesome!

I was waiting for someone to mention it ahaha.

[xxb4xx]

Hey Kenshinfan1, check around the engine bay, it sounds like they have accidently left a hose disconnected or a cable yo a sensor, which is now either losing vacuum or not getting the correct Reading to the ecu and stalling the car from revving...

[kitbkk]

Digging up this old thread.
My car had to be on a tow truck on Saturday because the clutch master cylinder suddenly started leaking and then had no pressure in it at all within a couple of hours. Couldn't get into any gears and pedal didn't come back up after pressing it down. :( Had to pay $250 for the tow truck:thumbdwn:

Ok... a bit of history.. I had the master cylinder replaced for the first time when car had around 20,000km.. Then, not long after that, around less than another 10,000km it started creaking again, the dealer didn't give it another replacement but lube it and the creak went away for 4-5000km then I use silicon spray regularly every 5k km or so..

Today at my mechanic's, we took out the old whole master cylinder unit and replaced it with a new one from Honda. Paid another $220 for just the part!
Here is a photo of the old one and where the problem is.
The whole unit.
http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/8172/img0771bd.jpg
Remove this clip with the pliers to see the wear inside the push rod.
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/7572/img0772la.jpg
The arrow points where the wear is.
http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/8492/img0774c.jpg

It is very stupid that the whole unit has to be bought. The wear is at the plastic push rod before the seal. It has been bad that made me thinking that my clutch (after market) is the heaviest I have ever driven. I think this is the reason of my premature wear of my old ORC clutch that only lasted 10k kms. (I have been driven 2-3 manual cars before I owned the euro and all of them never had clutch replaced) After we put in the new unit, my clutch just feels a tad heavier than other cars with stock clutch.

Before it started leaking, there had not been any creaking for about a year... So watch out for this guys..

[egSi]

i had a creaking pedal too kit. just lubed it up and its all sweet now. i hope this doesnt happen to mine.

maybe just rev match shift in future? :p ;)

[Phased]

You will find that the silicon spray will fix the "creak" temporarily however it can actually do more long term damage... as Silicon breaks down rubber/nylon seals. It's funny you mention the premature clutch wear as it seems common on euro's for clutches to need replacing as early as 80-100,000kms. I haven't Had any trouble with mine, besides noisy compound! I somehow think it's got something to do with how Euro Owners Drive them... Don't forget they are a popular car aimed at older people that aren't really "into driving" of which probably slip them and don't treat them very well...

The thing that annoys me is that because we purchased the exact same part; who's to say that Honda have re-engineered it and fixed it... The exact same thing may happen again.

I know the Euro represented good value for money... but the List of VERY "Common Faults" is irritating. I've fixed (myself) EVERY common fault the euro's are known for (except steering rack, that is good) It still is a Honda and although the Engine/Transmission itself is solid, reliable and typical of Honda... the rest of the car doesn't seem up to scratch. ie. Clutch, Lock Actuators, Driveline (Driveshafts), Steering Rack Issues etc.

[kitbkk]

trav, i kinda rev match every time, both up and down shift.

yep, i agree 100% with Phased. I sprayed mine in December last year (saw my post in the previous page), then the creaking was gone for 5-6 months. However the creak came back about a week ago then I hit it up with some more silicone spray.. until it is fully damaged and leaked.

I upgraded my clutch from OEM to ORC not because it was gone or there was anything wrong.. The ORC clutch only lasted 10,000 KM.. Reported back here on the forums and people pointed out it might be my driving style.. Though I never play with my clutch for example using it to hold up the hills etc.. The master cylinder was the cause that makes it very very hard to launch the car until now I know 100%. To Compare before and after replacing the whole master cylinder unit (just before it was completely stuffed), I can say it is like triple the stiffness of the pedal.

Yeah it is very annoying that we have to keep replacing a faulty part for another part that you know will be faulty again in the future... RANT//

[Phased]

trav, i kinda rev match every time, both up and down shift.

yep, i agree 100% with Phased. I sprayed mine in December last year (saw my post in the previous page), then the creaking was gone for 5-6 months. However the creak came back about a week ago then I hit it up with some more silicone spray.. until it is fully damaged and leaked.

I upgraded my clutch from OEM to ORC not because it was gone or there was anything wrong.. The ORC clutch only lasted 10,000 KM.. Reported back here on the forums and people pointed out it might be my driving style.. Though I never play with my clutch for example using it to hold up the hills etc.. The master cylinder was the cause that makes it very very hard to launch the car until now I know 100%. To Compare before and after replacing the whole master cylinder unit (just before it was completely stuffed), I can say it is like triple the stiffness of the pedal.

Yeah it is very annoying that we have to keep replacing a faulty part for another part that you know will be faulty again in the future... RANT//

Clutches designed for racing or hard street work (ie. Cushion/Brass Button, Puck, Twin+ Plate etc.) shouldn't be driven like a normal clutch... otherwise you will be lucky if you get 10,000kms out of it.... They're not designed to be slipped, instead you have to hard release and do kind of a "semi-launch" when you take off, even when your not planning to drive hard at all. I've heard from many that regardless of the way you treat them; Racing clutches (especially ORC/Ogura) don't last very long... Especially when compared to OEM or Standard Replacement.

Yeah I know, it is VERY annoying to think that even spending $180 on a Master Cylinder... that in a few months (or possibly the next owner) it will just do exactly the same thing.... Damn Honda! Ain't what they used to be!

Rant(Clutches) return 0;

[Simonnn]

Hold on.. I've been spraying mine like every two days with silicon! should I stop? :(

[ricsvtr]

why not use Lanox instead of silicon spray? Silicon is known to degrade rubber over time, Lanox is supposedly safe for use on rubber

[roony]

Digging up this old thread.
My car had to be on a tow truck on Saturday because the clutch master cylinder suddenly started leaking and then had no pressure in it at all within a couple of hours. Couldn't get into any gears and pedal didn't come back up after pressing it down. :( Had to pay $250 for the tow truck:thumbdwn:

Before it started leaking, there had not been any creaking for about a year... So watch out for this guys..


u have actually put fear of complete failure in me now. Over the last 6 months, I have had its sprayed 3 times. the creak came back the next day. Overall the clutch is really stiff too.

I think its high time i considered getting RSA :\

How much was the total cost including labour? I got a qoute few months back, if I remember the total inc labour was around 460$ or so (and they said 1 yr or 20k warranty)

[power_of_dreams]

here is my 2c.
lube don't do nothing. It stopped mine creaking temporarily, as to whether it is actually bad (as suggested by some above), I can't comment.
I have had my master cylinder replaced. That fixed it.

That was 1-1.5 years ago.
Clutch has now begun creaking again, warranty set to run out in January. Have also had passenger side door actuator fail recently.

The problem I have is that the creaking has continued even after master cylinder has been replaced. This should have been the be all and end all of the problem....

[kitbkk]

u have actually put fear of complete failure in me now. Over the last 6 months, I have had its sprayed 3 times. the creak came back the next day. Overall the clutch is really stiff too.

I think its high time i considered getting RSA :\

How much was the total cost including labour? I got a qoute few months back, if I remember the total inc labour was around 460$ or so (and they said 1 yr or 20k warranty)
I had only sprayed it with silicon spray twice or three times too. then it just failed not long after that.. it just depends on your luck i guess if it will completely fail ie the master cylinder will lose its pressure 100% and causing the car to become not drivable.
The whole master cylinder is $220 from Eastern Honda (VIC) and my mechanic charged me around $120 I think for labour.

[Simonnn]

I had only sprayed it with silicon spray twice or three times too. then it just failed not long after that.. it just depends on your luck i guess if it will completely fail ie the master cylinder will lose its pressure 100% and causing the car to become not drivable.
The whole master cylinder is $220 from Eastern Honda (VIC) and my mechanic charged me around $120 I think for labour.

Was that $120 for labour including the clutch fluid as well?

[kitbkk]

yeah simon. though clutch fluid is not expensive from honda.

[cheapdouchebag]

thanks for the help. been stalking this thread. just bought my euro
it creaks when i push it down at the very bottom.
but at times it doesnt do it at all for instance when i wake up n get outside to warm the car, leave it untill warm revs drop to about 700rpm, then its gone
but the creak sometimes happens when i just cold start n drive normally. and i do rev match as well

[Euro08Jaz]

Yea sounds like master cylinder, I had a similar thing happening, it will get progressively worse.

[tron07]

No such problem with the facelifted version... maybe you should change with the FL euro parts.

[Simonnn]

I know the facelifted version suffers from the creaking clutch as well (if by facelift you mean 06+ CL9, and not CU2). Whats an FL euro part?

[tron07]

FL euro means 06 onwards CL9.... CU2 is a new car already.

[raffyboy]

why not sell the CL9 then get CU2? lol that is my answer since I have my Cl9 for 3 years now

[Euro08Jaz]

No such problem with the facelifted version... maybe you should change with the FL euro parts.

I have the face lift version and yes it does suffer from the same problem. The dealer swapped out the faulty master cylinder from my 07 built euro

[tron07]

I have the face lift version and yes it does suffer from the same problem. The dealer swapped out the faulty master cylinder from my 07 built euro

lets hope it doesnt appear on mine....

[tony1234]

lets hope it doesnt appear on mine....

I dont' have the problem either.Hope i never get it!!

[roony]

well i rang honda today about a service, generally chatted with him but the clutch issues in the euro. He did begin to say that a revision was made later on, but then later wouldnt confirm it lol.

Anyways, got a spray, gonna try to temp fix it.

thanks for the pic aarong,http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?12165-Creaking-clutch-pedal-Euro/page45

any advice on how much to spray? thanks.

Edit: nm, sprayed a bit. Will take it for a spin. I hop this time is lasts for more than a day :(. I have found when the car or weather is cold, its ok. Only when the drive gets longer or hot temps is worse.

[Simonnn]

I will be getting my cylinder replaced sometime next week, my pedal has been the worst I've used. Hopefully it fixes the issue! :D

[roony]

cool, hopefully will go smooth. keep us posted :)

[Simonnn]

I finally got my master cylinder replaced today and am SO happy!! the clutch pedal feels as smooth as butter now!

Here is a video of how bad my pedal was prior to the replacement (I think mine has been the worst case I've experienced, let me know how yours compares!)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzGzuCS3dp0

Thanks to Kit for telling me where to get it replaced for cheap :D

[roony]

wow that is pretty bad. I would say on worst days mine is around 80% to that. Im really getting fed up, cause no matter how many times i spray it, comes back within 2-3 days. but glad to hear yours is all fine :).

is there an operational click when u release the clutch?

[npcan2]

LOL Simon! Ur pedal was so bad! Many lolz were had at your pedal. btw, vacuum your car!

[power_of_dreams]

keep in mind that changing the master cylinder is not the be all and end all.

I have had it swapped before, and the creaking is back, though not as bad.

Warranty almost up, so will push for another master cylinder replacement

[dale]

And my 2006 :(

[Simonnn]

FYI mine has been going 4 months without a creak at all. The guy who I got the master cylinder said it was a TSX cylinder.. which apparently does not creak, ever!

Hopefully he didnt lie :P

[Euro08Jaz]

Haha mine was just at bad, it didnt start out that bad, months of being told that they couldn't hear the problem and when it got to this stage they finally fixed it!

[liberty68]

hi simonn ,

where did you get you sports pedal set ? been looking for set my shelf no luck as yet

[Simonnn]

Got mine from another member here, if you dont mind forking out a bit extra I think they're available on heeltoeauto.com :)

[liberty68]

thanks will give them a try

[liberty68]

Tried heeltoeauto.com do not have at the moment ? will look around ,Does anyone know some one that has in stock ?

Thanks Manuel

[marquee]

Mine happens quite a bit i just lube it on the clutch assembly and it goes away.

[Simonnn]

Mine happens quite a bit i just lube it on the clutch assembly and it goes away.

That's true, but the creak comes back sooner or later. Also, constantly using it can lead to the cylinder dying (As discussed in this thread earlier).

[liberty68]

Hi
I can get sports pedal set for euro 2009 model $ 150 they look the same as mine any one know
if they will fit my euro 2006 model ?

[nhia84]

Hey guys,
Recently purchased a 2004 CL9
I've started to notice that after the car has warmed up and usually after 15mins of driving I will start to feel a click in the clutch as I press/engage the clutch and it can be heard as well. If I slowly engage the clutch it does not click however.
I've gone through this thread twice and the impression I'm getting is that the click is a result of the clutch master cylinder needing to be replaced
I also believe that because its not the creaking noise everyone else is experiencing, the use of the silicone spray on the adjustment rod will not resolve the problem I am having
Can someone please confirm my conclusions?

[EuroSteve]

The creaking clutch pedal issue continues to confuse me. I've had it on and off for the past couple years. At one time I had it continuously for weeks, so I sprayed some silicon spray into it and it went away. It came back a month or so later, so using a length if thin tube (model engine fuel line), gave it a really good spray. I haven't had the pedal creak in 6+ months now! *touches wood*

PS. Be sure to use a rag to soak up any silicon lube that dribbles back out, otherwise your car will smell like a workshop! ;-)

[nhia84]

Thanks for the feedback there EuroSteve, I did try to silicon spray method over the weekend and it indeed resolve my clicking issue. Did make my car smell for a bit even after I wiped the surround area down; but nothing air freshner cant mask haha.

Now I'm hoping it doesnt come back too often :P

[Simonnn]

FYI mine has been going 4 months without a creak at all. The guy who I got the master cylinder said it was a TSX cylinder.. which apparently does not creak, ever!

Hopefully he didnt lie :P

A little update for those curious (8 months after master cylinder replacement).. I've been feeling minor creaks in my clutch pedal these last few days :( guess it comes back sooner or later TSX clutch or not!

[roony]

A little update for those curious (8 months after master cylinder replacement).. I've been feeling minor creaks in my clutch pedal these last few days :( guess it comes back sooner or later TSX clutch or not!

oh that really sucks :(. You would think they would have resolved this issue with a newer revision. I got mine replaced couple months back. So far so good, fingers crossed :\. maybe something else aggravates it.

Out of curiosity, does it take you a bit of effort to change gears? I find I have to concentrate a bit to make sure I release the clutch smoothly (tiring in long heavy traffic), else at times I end up shuddering the car with a not so smooth release.

[Simonnn]

That happens to mine in first mainly, the other gears are generally fine.. Maybe have a look at changing manual transmission fluid?

[roony]

For me its mainly 2-4th gears where I have put more effort. Im actually having the 110k service next week and will be chanigng the gear fluid too. Hope that helps.

[aaronng]

I just learnt to match the revs when release clutch. So Clutch in, shift and when revs drop to about where I want it to be, I release the clutch in one swift motion. Get it right and it is smooth and not-tiring. Get it wrong and the car starts to bunny-hop. :p

[roony]

Thanks for the tip, I do belive I have to get used it. I have always driven manual but this clutch is certainly heavier than previous cars such as corollas and honda city. The creaking issue also put me off alot as it was super hard.

I think also alot of the times I change gears at higher revs (drive spirited), I change to the next gear at a higher speed which makes me put more effort to release the clutch smoother. I think i should tone down my aggressive nature :P

[belowzero85]

Just put some lithium grease spray into my creaking clutch pedal and after 2 burts of spray onto the rod , pumped the clutch twice and the creaking is gone. I know it isnt a permanent fix , but with the other problems i have on this car its the least of my worries.

[roony]

Well had my car serviced today, changed the gear box fluid and things are more smooth now :).

Do any of you guys use the double clutch method for downshifting aggressively?

[marquee]

Double clutch is for up shifting isn't it and rev matching is for downshifting and I don't use it not much point for road use

[npcan2]

^^ Spot on!

The euro pedals are well positioned for heel-toe shifts.

[aaronng]

Double clutch is for up shifting isn't it and rev matching is for downshifting and I don't use it not much point for road use

No, double clutch is for downshifting. The up shifting part is a fake statement from Fast and Furious.

Double clutch allows the input shaft in the gearbox to match speeds with the gear that you want to go into. Hence by double clutching, you can go from 4th gear to 1st gear smoothly assuming that you are still under the top speed for 1st gear.

[aaronng]

Well had my car serviced today, changed the gear box fluid and things are more smooth now :).

Do any of you guys use the double clutch method for downshifting aggressively?
Yes, if I am on the freeway sitting at 90 in 6th gear and want quick acceleration, I double clutch and go straight into 3rd. It minimises wear on the synchros. You can still do it without double clutching, but you will feel resistance going into gear and sometimes you can hear a thud when you do so which is the input shaft being forced to speed up by the synchros.

[roony]

Since the last post here I have learned quite well to double clutch, can do easily for 3rd, 2nd still a bit tougher with the rev matching.

Anyways, I fear my replaced clutch master cylinder might be starting to act up. Last week noticed it make a kinda rubbing faint noise upon release (uptil half point). Hard to describe really. Happened a couple days after the car was run a bit, havnt heard it since. I just hope the creaking doesn't start.

[ajphillips92]

thought it was just me that this happened to glad its not

[racerwannabe]

This issue has been causing me much grief lately. I've tried silicone and grease spray cans but it comes back after about a day. So I bought a grease gun and injected a ton of grease in there and hopefully that will do the trick.

[power_of_dreams]

Has anybody found a permanent fix?

Honda have greased it before and replaced my master cyclinder but the issue is still there. I am no longer under Honda warranty.

I have taken it to my mechanic and he lubed it as well, that worked for a month or so, but it's back again.

[Richard B]

Dragging up old but relevant thread..

I have this creak and have trouble reaching the source.

Did anyone point out a sure fire way to reach this damned creak spot with lube, inside these 51 pages?

What is out there that has a nozzle long enough?

Thanks..

[jjman]

nope alas there isnt.
it is a poorly designed clutch system basically. Usually the creak is coming from the master cylinder actuator rod, but often also the clutch pedal pivot mechanism (they arent braced enough and flex all over the place), and then also the actuation mechanism to the clutch at the engine often gets a bit dry and notchy.

The fix for mine was to remove the master cylinder actuator rod (which was notched and worn on one side from the poor design and under lubrication) and rotate it 180 degrees so the side that doesnt rub was now the side that receives the noticeable rubbing friction. In doing this give it a liberal application of lithium grease. Sadly this still only keeps it smooth for a few weeks to a few months depending on use, at which point it needs a regrease. I also find ambient temps have an effect on it as it seems at some temps it can still get a harmonic squeal that goes away when the temps change.

Beyond this you might find the clutch pedal pivot mechanism needs some attention and i even reinforced mine to stop the flexing (removed one aspect of the not-so-smooth and heavy pedal action).
Finally, lubing the actuation mechanism to the clutch down on the engine can also help some of the noise and harshness.

After doing all these things and continuing to keep the master cylinder actuator rod lubed i can keep the clutch smooth and noise free.

[Richard B]

I fixed it for now.

Went to soupacheep and bought a can of spray lithium grease with a long nozzle and got upside down among the pedals. Someone before me had tried to fix the problem as there was grease everywhere.

I noticed the flex in the assembly! it's horrible! I thought that perhaps the creak was coming from the mounting.

I re-greased every single pivot point until the whole thing looked like a lard sculpture.. it's probably all going to come down in the next heat wave. But it kept creaking.

Last thing I did was put a squirt into the push rod tube for the master cylinder. And that fixed it. It's silky smooth and quiet now.

Might think about bracing the housing a bit before I go to a heavier clutch.

[jjman]

nice one. yeah maybe wipe off the excess from the pedal mechanisms as it wont be doing much good and will cause a mess when it runs down.

Yeah its the master cylinder thats the main culprit. Im sure someone out there has changed the MC before to something else that doesnt have the issues.
Pressure plate and actual friction plates are fine in this car. if probably over-engineered by the feel of it. Doesnt need to be that beefy a clutch for a 4cyl.
the clutch on my 410hp Skyline was just as heavy!

[power_of_dreams]

I had my master cylinder replaced under warranty like 5 years ago. It still creaks.

[jjman]

yep, needs the constant lubing on the actuator rod if you want to keep the squeaks away. Rod might even need rotating if it has become worn and scored on one side.

[safetycar]

Supposed to be fixed in the A04 part.
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/honda-genuine-clutch-master-cylinder-genuine-honda-2004-08-acura-tsx-cl9-latest-updated-a04-version.html
No idea about long term though.
There's also this: http://www.mandm-honda.com/shop/products/detail.php?product_id=219

[racerwannabe]

Get the clutch slave cylinder replaced and squeak be gone!

[jjman]

nope. thats been covered mate. people replaced it and the squeek back within 3-6 months. its a fault in the design of the MC.

[Richard B]

I now keep a can of white lithium spray grease with a long nozzle in the back of the car. Seemed the cheapest / less involved solution to it all. Seems to last longer with each application too - probably because there's a fair bit of grease in there now.

[jjman]

I now keep a can of white lithium spray grease with a long nozzle in the back of the car. Seemed the cheapest / less involved solution to it all. Seems to last longer with each application too - probably because there's a fair bit of grease in there now.

thats what i do too! :)

[racerwannabe]

nope. thats been covered mate. people replaced it and the squeek back within 3-6 months. its a fault in the design of the MC.

Nope, changed mine about 5 years ago and the squeak has not returned. Yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jjman]

ah ok, sweet!.
i did see someone note that at some point honda did upgrade the MC they used as the replacement and that this might indeed solve this issue. was it you saying this or perhaps can you confirm if you received this updated part?

-because there was many people who said they had the MC replaced under warranty back when these cars were new (mid 2000s) and they said it only fixed the problem for a short time before returning.