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vinnY
05-11-2009, 02:30 AM
okay so since no one could/wanted to/had the time to answer my question (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=122618) i thought i'd take matters into my own hands, pulled the 40a abs fuse and pulled the code again, bam code 14(fl, wss) and code 52(motor stuck off)
so i'm assuming i'm running off the 98+ codes from here (http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=978933&highlight=abs+error+code)

put the fuse back in, reset abs ecu and start up the car again(abs light off at this point)
drive down the road, hit the brakes and goes stiff but has no braking force and the abs light pops on
from here on the brakes act as normal as if abs were never there, abs light stays on permanently even after restarting the car and will not go off unless i use the service procedure to reset the abs codes
so i pull the code for the ecu with the 40a fuse back in and i just get code 14;
14 - wheel senor (electrical noise/intermittent interuption) FL

now i've done;
replaced the wss(stock ek4 and one from a dc2r) - no difference
checked abs ring - appeared fine without any missing teeth
followed the wss tests in the service manual regarding mucking around with the 26p connector - everything checks out
tested both my wss' - both appear to be between 930-960ohms which should be okay

did a bit of poking around and saw that the gap between the wss and the abs ring on the drive shaft appear to be more than it should be (0.4-1mm), either that or i'm just tired(midnight mechanic ftw)
would the abs ring/wss gap be causing this?
the other side appears to have a similar gap but i don't have any errors with that side

ECU-MAN
05-11-2009, 03:45 PM
its a good idea to use an occiliscope or waveform viewer to see the wave form of the WSS. and compare it to the other side that is OK.

have you dome or had any suspention work done at all on the front ? ( replaced shocks )

vinnY
05-11-2009, 03:50 PM
unfortunately only have basic tools to work with here

been a long time since i've done anything suspension wise, died a while before i changed anything in the front end though(have gone 4x114.3, new bushes and adjustable coilovers)

i did however change the sensor last night, clear the abs ecu(service procedure not just remove fuses)
drove down the road at about 40km/h then braked
firm pedal, can feel the abs unit pulsing then the light just came on and stayed on
got home, checked the code, 14 again

chowdaa
05-11-2009, 09:28 PM
not sure if this will help but do you have different wheel sizes front and rear? is the fault is wheel sensor? and doesn't specify which side? if so try swapping sides and seeing if the fault follows? The gap idea is very plausible, it won't be producing a strong hall effect if the sensor is too far away, but are they adjustable tho?

ECU-MAN
05-11-2009, 09:53 PM
you really need to inspect the signal coming from the WSS to the ECU as code 14 is

- noisy signal
- damaged ( chipped ) pulser or gear.
- ABS ECU


pull out the Front Left WSS, make sure the WSS head is not damaged in any way

make sure the pulser gear is not damaged at all. closely inspect it again with goos lighting.

vinnY
05-11-2009, 10:40 PM
chowdaa; error's the front left, it's been replaced from a known working car already so the sensor appears to be okay
they're side specific(mounting hardware is anyway) so i can't really swap it around even if i wanted to
can't adjust the gap either unfortunately, if it's out the service manual just says replace until it works

ecu-man; yeah i'll have to take a closer look, unfortunately all i have access to is a multi meter :(
i have however tried different sets of drive shafts with different abs rings(in an effort to fix another problem which i still haven't figured out) and it didn't appear to change anything at all
i guess i could try sourcing some new abs rings from a driveshaft shop
i followed the service manual procedure to check the 26p plug and it seemed to not fault at all at any connectors so i'm abit stumpted

the 4x114.3 itr setup wouldn't have a different offset between the driveshaft and wss would it?

ECU-MAN
06-11-2009, 10:48 AM
no the offset to the ring from the WSS should be the same.


does your meter have a frequency setting or a Duty setting ?

vinnY
06-11-2009, 11:14 AM
ah thanks for the clarification ecu-man

unfortunately my multimeters are just cheap junk and only have real basic functions :(

chowdaa
06-11-2009, 09:38 PM
knowing you swapped and tested everything on that side, unfortunetly besides from wiring which i am sure you would have checked for continuity and short to earth, i would seem like an abs control unit. Unless you have already swapped it.

vinnY
06-11-2009, 10:00 PM
yeah i'm stumped
no spare abs ecu's kicking around so i can't really test that :(
might just have to live without it i guess

ECU-MAN
08-11-2009, 07:30 PM
what is the part number of your ABS ECU ?


I might have a test one you can borrow.

fatboyz39
09-11-2009, 05:00 PM
real cars dont have abs :P