EM1 Sway bar + ASR/Beaks

[BIGTYM]

I want to upgrade the rear of my EM1. I know that I have a swaybar as standard i thinks it 22mm. I want to upgrade and install ASR + Beaks to stiffen it up plus add some bling factor. My question is. Is it worth my while upgrade to an EK9 26mm swaybar first or will me stock one be fine?

[Tai]

Pretty sure stock Em1 rear is only like 14-16mm but Could be wrong.

[akira]

EM1 front swaybars are 26mm and rear swaybars are 16mm. if you want to upgrade, then upgrade to ek9 rear swaybars which are 22mm and better handling with ASR.

[BIGTYM]

Pretty sure stock Em1 rear is only like 14-16mm but Could be wrong.


Sh1t didn't realise there was such a difference between EM1 swaybar & EK9. So does that mean I have to upgrade bar first?

[BIGTYM]

EM1 front swaybars are 26mm and rear swaybars are 16mm. if you want to upgrade, then upgrade to ek9 rear swaybars which are 22mm and better handling with ASR.


Thanks for the info

[vampzzz]

if you upgrade the bar you need the ASR/beaks or your gonna tear your subframe.

do both at the same time.

[Tai]

let me know if u wana sekl ur stock swaybar

[BIGTYM]

let me know if u wana sekl ur stock swaybar

No worries soon as I upgrade sway bar is all urs!

[jks24]

or you can use dc2r rear sway bar as well right? Im thinking of doing the exact same thing to my EM1 soon :)

[RtN]

for dc2r sway bars on EK endlinks you will need to purchase endlink spacers from ASR themselves.

[BIGTYM]

Sounds like too much f'ing around.

[EK1.6LCIV]

you will need the CTR sway bar and endlink kit (JDMConcept/JDMYard has them so do other traders) and the ASR brace to install it (otherwise if you do install the CTR bar to your stock subframe it will cause it to break as it's a bigger diameter bar), nothing more besides basic tools:

jack, jack stands, torque wrench and metric socket set :) a yank site has a diy including how to install light weight lower control arms (may as well if you're basically removing them anyhow, not needed but if you ever wanted to it's a worthwhile mod)

std one is fine, it's all I have on my EJ8 (buddy sold me his stock Em1 bar, endlinks and I went to honda for the brackets and super cheap for high tensile bolts)

but out of the several huindred dollars you'll spend you may as well buy decent coilovers which will be more beneficial

[Killa From Manila]

if the em1 rear swaybar is the same as the ek4 one, then it wont fit with the ASR brace because the holes on the d brackets have a different spacing. If u use a dc2r swaybar u need to buy ASR endlink adaptors, i think they were <$20 shipped when i bought mine

[Alexx]

Just look to the states and get the complete kit - ASR brace, ASR 24mm bar, ASR D Bushes, and ASR rose jointed endlinks to suit EK. Very good value for money at the current exchange rate.

Killa is right, stock bar does not fit on an ASR brace. Brace isnt necessary for stock bar anyway.

If you get ASR, dont bother with a beaks tie bar - its useless and serves no purpose except for reducing ground clearance.

[BIGTYM]

If you get ASR, dont bother with a beaks tie bar - its useless and serves no purpose except for reducing ground clearance.


What about the bling factor?

[jks24]

What about the bling factor?

lol im keeping my skunk2 lower bar on when i get my asr brace on, extra bling yo :p

[Alexx]

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/869/tiebarsneedmore.jpg

I stand by my statement - When i see a tie bar on an ASR brace i don't think its bling at all, i think they have wasted their money.

[DEMON83]

or you can use dc2r rear sway bar as well right? Im thinking of doing the exact same thing to my EM1 soon :)

DC2R is 23mm and EK9 is 22, both are solid bars and for EK4/EM1 stock sway bar is 16mm hollow. the EK9 will fit right up as DC2 has diff LCA's and a diff mounting point to EK/EM.

I have EK9 22mm with ASR brace, Carbing lower tie bar and F7 LCA's on my EM1, u cant go wrong with that! highly recommend.

Will be changeing to Skunk2 lower tie bar when 1 of the traders has the clear anodized 1 in stock... as it forged billet aluminium and the Carbing is mild steel. every bit of weight loss counts lol

[BIGTYM]

LOL..Christopher Walken

[Alexx]

Will be changeing to Skunk2 lower tie bar when 1 of the traders has the clear anodized 1 in stock... as it forged billet aluminium and the Carbing is mild steel. every bit of weight loss counts lol

LOL you are talking about weight? If you go without a tie bar altogether, it weighs nothing at all! Wow fancy that :p. Asr acts as a tie bar.

[Killa From Manila]

needs extra stiffness for those nebo runs

[lil_foy]

DC2R is 23mm and EK9 is 22, both are solid bars and for EK4/EM1 stock sway bar is 16mm hollow. the EK9 will fit right up as DC2 has diff LCA's and a diff mounting point to EK/EM.

I have EK9 22mm with ASR brace, Carbing lower tie bar and F7 LCA's on my EM1, u cant go wrong with that! highly recommend.

Will be changeing to Skunk2 lower tie bar when 1 of the traders has the clear anodized 1 in stock... as it forged billet aluminium and the Carbing is mild steel. every bit of weight loss counts lol

Ok so a asr spands across the width of your subframe.
Placing a tiebar across the gap would mean you're just joining it to the asr.

Now tell me this, do you really think that you're going to flex the asr enough to justify a tiebar before you snap a bolt/bend something else.

Tiebars+asr are a waste of money as stated, simple bling factor.

[DEMON83]

Ok so a asr spands across the width of your subframe.
Placing a tiebar across the gap would mean you're just joining it to the asr.

Now tell me this, do you really think that you're going to flex the asr enough to justify a tiebar before you snap a bolt/bend something else.

Tiebars+asr are a waste of money as stated, simple bling factor.

Would never dream of telling u anything as u know everything.... Its a personal choice and on my car i can have as much bling / reinforcement as i like... :D

[lil_foy]

Would never dream of telling u anything as u know everything.... Its a personal choice and on my car i can have as much bling / reinforcement as i like... :D

Just as I expected, you have no reply to me other then dribble.
I'll admit I dont know everything but I do have common sense which seems to eb lacking alot nowdays.

Have as much bling as you want but dont go thinking it's going to improve your laptimes because well.. its extra un-needed weight and you know this.

[jks24]

lol round 2?

[bennjamin]

Would never dream of telling u anything as u know everything.... Its a personal choice and on my car i can have as much bling / reinforcement as i like... :D


you dont know everything -

Only the JDM DC2R has both 22mm (solid)and 23mm(hollow)rear swaybars , depending on year. The local AUDM DC2R has a 22mm swaybar.

[Limbo]

yep as per Ben, also the ek4/em1 swaybar is solid not hollow.
Only the 23mm is hollow, none of the others are at all

[mocchi]

you dont know everything -

Only the JDM DC2R has both 22mm (solid)and 23mm(hollow)rear swaybars , depending on year. The local AUDM DC2R has a 22mm swaybar.

anyone got a weight comparison for hollow and solid?

23mm, is that actually 22mm metal, 1mm paint?

im pretty sure one time i bought a 23mm sway bar, stripped it to bare and measured it again. 22mm with vernier caliper.

regarding stiffness, i remember one time i read in a book that having a solid bar doesnt increase rigidity. any input?

thanks.

[bennjamin]

Interesting , but i would think it's an as is measurement.

As far as I know , the 98 spec rear swaybar is 23mm outer diameter and hallow to save on weight and maintain the rigidity of the previous swaybar design.

Anyone got some fact sheets on these swaybar ?