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View Full Version : Question about brakes for a B18C2 Conversion



burner42
09-11-2009, 11:11 PM
i'm looking at doing a b18c2 conversion, would it be better to get a dc2 brake kit, or a vtir kit? also what is more readily available? as i'm looking to buy from a seller in Melb, he has a rear brake set for ek4, what would you guys recommend? Cause i prefer to get a complete set then trying to search around, what would be the less headache approach?

GSi_PSi
09-11-2009, 11:13 PM
i think they are both the same. DC2 VTiR and EK4 VTiR brakes

burner42
09-11-2009, 11:27 PM
i think they are both the same. DC2 VTiR and EK4 VTiR brakes

yeh i keep hearing that, however in terms of prop valve and BM Cyl, can i say use DC2 front brakes and Ek4 rears? cause i find it very hard to find ek4 front setup. Therefore was weighing up between the two, and seeing which is more readily available, i'd rather get that then hard to find ones.

vinnY
10-11-2009, 01:18 AM
if they are the same, i don't see why not

MM89
10-11-2009, 04:26 PM
if you're not running abs, even dc4 gsi brakes are the same.
they all use the 14N knuckles.

upgrading to dc2r bmc/bb is a good idea
this setup + good pads + good fluid will take you a long way
in an EK.

burner42
10-11-2009, 07:59 PM
if you're not running abs, even dc4 gsi brakes are the same.
they all use the 14N knuckles.

upgrading to dc2r bmc/bb is a good idea
this setup + good pads + good fluid will take you a long way
in an EK.

but dc2r are 5 studs aren't they? as i already have rims that i like, i'm trying to stay away from that if i can, if i were to use integra vtir front brakes with ek ftir rear brakes, is that in theory workable? the other guys have said they are the same, however does anyone have a working system they can advise me? thanks

vinnY
10-11-2009, 08:27 PM
he's talking about the brake booster/master cylinder only(1"), not the whole conversion
if you are only going up to 262mm front and rear disc you shouldn't need more than 15/16"

burner42
10-11-2009, 09:58 PM
My bad, sorry on my iPhone, didn't read in full. It's just cause I find that those are really hard to find, I don't want to be running around trying to find the smaller things. But that said, I'll keep that in mind

MM89
10-11-2009, 10:22 PM
you don't NEED 1" master cylinder, but it'll be good to have.
having felt the same set of brakes with a 15/16 mc and a 1" mc, the latter feels more solid, predictable and responsive.

if you need to find parts, hondworld is usually pretty good or seeker motorsport on the next street has parts there sometimes if you're lucky.

burner42
10-11-2009, 11:35 PM
cheers mate, thanks for the info

EK1.6LCIV
11-11-2009, 10:00 AM
if your car is getting close to 200oookm

I'd upgrade the lot: mc/bb, prop valve, front and rear brakes, then get new rotors and pads with a full flush

and investigate the cost of going 5stud with the current dollar as you're already doing the same amount of stuffing around anyhow

Redlinemotorsport
11-11-2009, 07:30 PM
do the lot, dont bother putting on vtir, why not just go TYPE R and spend the money.

burner42
11-11-2009, 07:41 PM
cause i want to have money left for the conversion itself, if i overkill on brakes, i won't have enough funds left. Type R, i would need 5 stud, of which i don't want to.

ZeForce
13-11-2009, 09:40 AM
262mm fronts, 239mm rears, good set of pads, new rotors, 15/16" MC is sufficient for the street.... if you plan on doing track work then maybe worth looking at ITR or bigger

dougie_504
14-11-2009, 02:05 PM
Hey man, I thought you were modding your D-series, like with those headers you just bought? <lol>

How much is the B18C2? Can you get a B18C7 instead?

And yeah as ZeForce said just upgrade to 262mm at the front and 239 at the back with some good quality pads like Bendix, RBC, Mintex etc.

Limbo
14-11-2009, 04:14 PM
only difference is i would use ITR fronts 282mm rotors and ITR calipers. Rear the EK4 or dc2 will be fine.

The difference in ITR front calipers would be nominal to the ek4/dc2 ones

burner42
14-11-2009, 10:12 PM
Hey man, I thought you were modding your D-series, like with those headers you just bought? <lol>

How much is the B18C2? Can you get a B18C7 instead?

And yeah as ZeForce said just upgrade to 262mm at the front and 239 at the back with some good quality pads like Bendix, RBC, Mintex etc.

as far as i know, D series modding is done, need to feel VTEC, hence looking at conversion

funds are limited, so ek4/dc2 should be ok, and yes, i've ordered the EK4 rears already

dougie_504
15-11-2009, 12:36 AM
as far as i know, D series modding is done, need to feel VTEC, hence looking at conversion

funds are limited, so ek4/dc2 should be ok, and yes, i've ordered the EK4 rears already


Oh, I thought you had a SOHC VTEC D-Series? VTEC is shit in those anyway <lol> my B16 CRX feels and sounds twice as good...

But why not B18C7? Funds?

bennjamin
15-11-2009, 01:05 AM
do the lot, dont bother putting on vtir, why not just go TYPE R and spend the money.

because legally and technically it is not required for such a vastly more expensive modification.

Just go the same braking system that was required with the engine you are getting. That is , DC2 / DC4 / EK4 / EM1 brakes front n rear. And the 15/16th booster/master cylinder. Top off with fresh new decent pads and a full brake bleed and you will brake fine

burner42
15-11-2009, 01:24 AM
because legally and technically it is not required for such a vastly more expensive modification.

Just go the same braking system that was required with the engine you are getting. That is , DC2 / DC4 / EK4 / EM1 brakes front n rear. And the 15/16th booster/master cylinder. Top off with fresh new decent pads and a full brake bleed and you will brake fine

are the 15/16th booster/master cylinder easy to find locally? that's what i thought, no need to over doing it just for street use.


Oh, I thought you had a SOHC VTEC D-Series? VTEC is shit in those anyway <lol> my B16 CRX feels and sounds twice as good...

But why not B18C7? Funds?

B18C7 is alot more expensive from what i've been seeing, yeah i don't wanna be spending every single paycheck in this car. It's already blown the budget by $5K already, was only meant to be a work car

bennjamin
15-11-2009, 01:33 AM
are the 15/16th booster/master cylinder easy to find locally? that's what i thought, no need to over doing it just for street use.

Yes. Fairly easy to source locally.

B18C7 is alot more expensive from what i've been seeing, yeah i don't wanna be spending every single paycheck in this car. It's already blown the budget by $5K already, was only meant to be a work car

I personally have a b18c7 in a eg , and running EK4 front and standard rear discs ( same as ek4 anyway). It runs fine.

The engine is surely 50kw more power than standard , but its 1-200kgs less than the engines original designation.

dougie_504
15-11-2009, 01:35 AM
<lol> yeah I'm modding my daily driver and the dream-build of my CRX would see me spending another $17,000 on it ---> twice what I bought it for.

And my dad and I just bought a Honda City Turbo II from a dude who bought it to "get out of the car-modding game" and eventually cracked the sh!ts because he realised he was gonna be working on it to no end.

It's a disease we have :(