View Full Version : which cams .. !
danny_2132
18-11-2009, 11:44 AM
hey guys , i have a dc2r and i plan to run a set up with I/H/E , cams and a hondata ..
what cams do you guys recommend for this set up?
im tossing up between buddyclubs and skunk2 .. i dont know what spec or stage to go for thats why im asking .. thanks guys ..
dougie_504
18-11-2009, 12:01 PM
Skunk2 Racing stage 2 cams and cam gears is my suggestion. Thought about retainers, valves, vale springs, port & polish?
danny_2132
18-11-2009, 12:05 PM
Skunk2 Racing stage 2 cams and cam gears is my suggestion. Thought about retainers, valves, vale springs, port & polish?
are they the stage 2's or pro 2's ? i havent thought about the retainers n valves etc...any suggestions .. ? ... i wouldnt need port & polish would i ??
ninzee
18-11-2009, 01:22 PM
same sh1t bro stage 2s r good for mid range power but if ur looking for high end go for toda spec C's
if your looking to do cams u def need valve springs and retainers to see any real difference, port & polish doesnt need to be done but you might as well since you will be ripping apart the engine anyway
ninzee
18-11-2009, 01:34 PM
ay have you considered Rocket M22x Cams apparantly there pretty good too
VTec1987
18-11-2009, 02:39 PM
yeh i want to know the same thing..
thinking of bc3 cam but i dun no
any opinions?
ninzee
18-11-2009, 02:44 PM
wat engine u got?
dougie_504
18-11-2009, 02:53 PM
same sh1t bro stage 2s r good for mid range power but if ur looking for high end go for toda spec C's
if your looking to do cams u def need valve springs and retainers to see any real difference, port & polish doesnt need to be done but you might as well since you will be ripping apart the engine anyway
Thumbs up!
To OP:
Basically if you want to do camshafts and camgears you should start with valves, valve springs and retainers to get the full benefits. Otherwise I wouldn't bother.
Port and polish isn't necessary but it's very recommended if you're going into the head to do some work and it will ensure your engine is flowing perfectly.
Also recommended is to change the water pump and timing belt since you'll have the head off.
For another few hundred dollars you could also get your head reconditioned so that it's super tight.
This will all cost BIG bucks (with parts, ECU, labour & tune I'm thinking like $6000+) I don't really see the point in doing any internal work unless you do it all. It costs money to go into the engine head and you may as well do it all at once so as to avoid paying labour time and time again, as well as to be able to get the full benefits of the mods.
Alternatively I think I/H/E on your DC2 (VTiR or Type R?) will do fine. That alone should give you a nice, noticeable 10% and I'd recommend doing that first and then deciding if you want to go further because it gets so much more expensive after that. Also, the stock ECU will be fine for I/H/E, only go aftermarket ECU if you do internals.
Good luck!
Andy.
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