How do I get these bloody tight caliper bolts off

[Chriskoss]

I need these bolts (pic attached below) taken off so I can put my new rotors and pads on

Cant get them off for the life of me.. tried using alot of wd40.. breaker bar to improve leverage, they just wont come off, I dont think theyve ever come off either, besides changings the pads perhaps

How can I bloody get these bastards off!

cheers

[mocchi]

no need to take out the caliper-caliper bracket bolt, only need to take out caliper-knuckle bolt.

you need to grow some man muscle. hahah.
btw my breaker bar is as long as my arm. roughly.
how long is yours?

[jdm_b16a]

If you mean the bolts holding the bracket on (as opposed to the longer, slider bolts), they might be tight but any torque wrench should do the job. If they are tighter than that, you have a real problem.

I know that doesn't give you a solution but make sure you are going the right way (anticlockwise), so try going forward slightly then back, and keep repeating until you have success. These bolts are subjected to a lot of heating and cooling, and may "dry", which is usually indicated by a whiter, powdery look when you remove them. Use some anti sieze on them when you put them back in.

Also, use a socket with multi-grooves as opposed to the cheaper ones which are only five-sided. Make sure it is a solid fit, try to avoid an extension bar too (so make sure socket is directly on the torque wrench.) Use your other hand to hold the socket firmly against the bolt head, and lever the torque wrench from its longest point (the handle).

Good luck.

Peter

[Neesmo31]

Ahh typical seized bolts in alloy housings. Firstly try and use good tools (it good ring spanners or 6 sided sockets if possible) and get a hammer, put the spanner or breaker bar and socket on the bolt, and give the tool your using a nice sharp hit to try and crack the thread. Dont belt the hell outta it just try and get a nice sharp load going into the bolt. Even try going clockwise as well, and then be careful when your unscrewing it so you dont strip anything. Once its out use a good nickel antiseize or locktite (locktite still locks the bolt/nut on/in the thread but also prevents corrosion getting into it and seizing it on again)

Hope that helps.

[Neesmo31]

lol we said the exact same thing jdm!! lol. you beat me though.

[mocchi]

Also, use a socket with multi-grooves as opposed to the cheaper ones which are only five-sided. Make sure it is a solid fit, try to avoid an extension bar too (so make sure socket is directly on the torque wrench.) Use your other hand to hold the socket firmly against the bolt head, and lever the torque wrench from its longest point (the handle).

Good luck.

Peter

many ppl suggest to use those 5 sided sockets to take out problematic bolts.
i've tried this and just like peter i find the multi grooved one to be more suitable.

maybe the difference is just the quality of sockets themselves.

[e240]

I know it may sound elementary, but are you turning it the right way?

[aaronng]

Make sure you are turning it the right way, get proper 6-sided sockets so that you don't risk rounding the bolts off, and use a breaker bar and a rubber mallet. Hit the end of the breaker bar with the mallet so that siezed bond is broken. Similar concept to an impact driver.

[mrpsi]

i took these bolts of my car last week with ease.

as said before make sure you are going the right way. Trying hitting the ring spanner with the hammer.

Careful with the bolts as you dont want to damage them.

[Chriskoss]

Yes turning left for loosening..

I tried giving it a hit, and I am using 6 sided sockets.. it just wont budge! I dont think I have those star-grooved sockets, but Ill try using a ring spanner next

I do need to take off the bracket too if Im replacing my disc's aswell?.. in the DIY it says everything should come off I think.. Am I wrong?

Mocchi the bar I was using was short..Ill make a longer one then, the length of my arm and give it a go.

The main problem is the awkward angle.. the socket is like slipping off at an angle when I try and use both hands to loosen the bolt, because the fender guard is in the way of me really getting in there.. I slipped off once and fell on my ass.. on my tools.. wasnt very pleasant.. loud curse words were said that could of been herd down the street lol

Could someone confirm which bolt in the pic needs to come out for me to replace the rotors and pads?

thx

[mrpsi]

Please see image. You will have to do the same for the other bolts on the other side of the caliper.

http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/5153/25112009132.jpg

Also to remove the rotor you may need to undo some screws at the front near your wheel studs.

[Chriskoss]

Thanks for that mate. Pic is very helpful!!!
Im changing both pads and discs so I guess it'll all come off.. and yea I havent even thought about the inner bolts yet, theyre in a bastard of a spot.. ahh I wish they made it easier lol

[aaronng]

Yes turning left for loosening..

I tried giving it a hit, and I am using 6 sided sockets.. it just wont budge! I dont think I have those star-grooved sockets, but Ill try using a ring spanner next

I do need to take off the bracket too if Im replacing my disc's aswell?.. in the DIY it says everything should come off I think.. Am I wrong?

Mocchi the bar I was using was short..Ill make a longer one then, the length of my arm and give it a go.

The main problem is the awkward angle.. the socket is like slipping off at an angle when I try and use both hands to loosen the bolt, because the fender guard is in the way of me really getting in there.. I slipped off once and fell on my ass.. on my tools.. wasnt very pleasant.. loud curse words were said that could of been herd down the street lol

Could someone confirm which bolt in the pic needs to come out for me to replace the rotors and pads?

thx

Ring spanner won't be as good as a socket and breaker bar. Most ring spanners are also 12-points and not 6-point unless you have Snap On spanners. Are you using a normal ratchet or a long breaker bar?

[Paul1985]

Please see image. You will have to do the same for the other bolts on the other side of the caliper.

[IM G]http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/5153/25112009132.jpg[/ IMG]

Also to remove the rotor you may need to undo some screws at the front near your wheel studs.

If the caliper bolts are seized, these screws are going to be a bitch to remove without ruining the head on them.

I use a ratchet/breaker bar with my jack handle over the ratchet handle to get leverage for some bolts.

Regarding the caliper ones, hammer trick is the best, get the ring end on there, hold it in position, give it a good wack or 2. Dont let the spanner slip off. You may not be able to use a large bar as you will have issues getting it in position to loosen it.

Use some CRC/WD40 etc, will help.

[wynode]

If you mean the bolts holding the bracket on (as opposed to the longer, slider bolts), they might be tight but any torque wrench should do the job.


Just wondering why you recommended a torque wrench. Normally you don't use a torque wrench but a good socket and breaker bar for really touch bolts.

Also try giving the actual bolt head a good hard hit to help loosen things up.

[wynode]

Ring spanner won't be as good as a socket and breaker bar. Most ring spanners are also 12-points and not 6-point unless you have Snap On spanners. Are you using a normal ratchet or a long breaker bar?

What Aaron means is are you using something like this (http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_4950.jpg) [/URL] (#1) or [URL="http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_4957.jpg"]this (http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_4957.jpg) (#2). Hopefully #2 :)

[Chriskoss]

Yeah im using no1.. its a cheap set from supercheap.. it fits on the bolt fine. I do find it stripping the bolt whenever I slip off.. Its so hard to wack it with a hammer and hold it there the same time, ill give it another go tomorrow

[Sir_vtec]

A big fat 70cm breaker bar or a 1ft breaker bar with the correct size socket is all u need, simple.

Once u buy that tool from burson's or auto 1.... Sidcrome one, undoing big bolts is a piece of cake guarantee. Invest in some bigger quality hand tools.

#1 rule with tools; never cheap out. u break your cheap shit and will replace it and round bolt heads as well.

[chunky]

^ x2 :thumbsup:

[Chriskoss]

What tool are we talking about here guys

[string]

I've found the 12 point ring spanners to be a good fit for those bolts. A good hit with a mallet and they're easily free.

Don't be afraid to use force, just make sure your putting the force in the right place and with the correct size tool.

[Neesmo31]

1\2" drive for the win. You will end up breaking something if your using 3/8" or smaller - then that broken tool will proceed to go through your hand.

You get what you pay for, and the difference in good tools vs shit ones is very very noticeable. Bad tools usually stuff what your trying to remove/install.

[Paul1985]

I've found the 12 point ring spanners to be a good fit for those bolts. A good hit with a mallet and they're easily free.

Don't be afraid to use force, just make sure your putting the force in the right place and with the correct size tool.

Thats right.

A ring spanner will be easier to hold on the caliper bolt than a ratchet more than likely. Put the ring on the bolt, hold the ring spanner in position about halfway down the spanner (closer to the bolt head), or if possible, hold the ring over the bolt with your hand, give it a hit with a hammer/mallet.

[bennjamin]

chris , did you rotate the entire arm towards the correct side for hitting DOWN ? That is , the drivers side rotate the wheel to the RIGHT and the passenger side rotate to the LEFT.

Wiith this done , grab a single faceted ( 6 sided) socket and a ratchet or breaker bar , place it on a flat plane ( horizontal) and hold it onto the 17mm nut as firmly as possible. A few good wacks on the end of the ratchet/breaker bar with your palm or a rubber mallet should crack it.

[tiksie]

Wd40 ?

[Neesmo31]

Also you can support the pivoting point of the breaker bar with a peice of wood/jack to stop it trying to slip off the head of the bolt. This will ensure all the force you put onto the head is perpendicular to the bolt.

[string]

Thats right.

A ring spanner will be easier to hold on the caliper bolt than a ratchet more than likely. Put the ring on the bolt, hold the ring spanner in position about halfway down the spanner (closer to the bolt head), or if possible, hold the ring over the bolt with your hand, give it a hit with a hammer/mallet.

Bolded for truth. Left hand holds the ring on the bolt and keeps the spanner from shooting off, right hand gives a powerful but controlled hit. I always use a metal mallet; rubber doesn't give the sharp impact that you need to crack these sorts of bolts. They're only a 12mm head and don't need the outright torque of a breaker bar, but if you've got the space, they make short work of any bolt.

WD40 helps a little bit but a real penetrating thread lubricant can really make a difference. Overkill for brake caliper bolts though IMO - just eat a few more weetbix for breakfast!

[Limbo]

where abouts r u? i'm willing to give it a go with a breaker bar & my socket set.
If not i'll snap them off and we'll have to goto honda to get new ones. Only $2 a bolt ;)

[Chriskoss]

where abouts r u? i'm willing to give it a go with a breaker bar & my socket set.
If not i'll snap them off and we'll have to goto honda to get new ones. Only $2 a bolt ;)

Im near chatswood, 25mins from livo

I tried what you all suggested.. hitting it with a ring spanner and hammer.. it just wont budge, I believe its just seized from the many many years of heating up and cooling down.. the pads wouldnt have been changed in over 5 years I think because the pads are like over the change pad marks lol..

Whenever I hit it, it just bounces back, and/or slips off, such a bitch!

What do I do now that I think the bolt is just purely seized on?

[Limbo]

i'll just take it out for ya or i'll end up snapping it.
I've snapped one before by tightening it too much. Its all good.

I have a good socket set which has snapped chassis bolts before ;)

i'll see if i get a chance on Sunday if you haven't done it by then.
PM me ur number

[lithium]

Im near chatswood, 25mins from livo

I tried what you all suggested.. hitting it with a ring spanner and hammer.. it just wont budge, I believe its just seized from the many many years of heating up and cooling down.. the pads wouldnt have been changed in over 5 years I think because the pads are like over the change pad marks lol..

Whenever I hit it, it just bounces back, and/or slips off, such a bitch!

What do I do now that I think the bolt is just purely seized on?

i don't have much to add as all the advice given so far has been good. just want to say be very careful if it's slipping off the bolt head - every time your socket or ring spanner slips, it's rounding that head. round it completely and it'll be 100 times harder to get off!

perhaps you could invest in a brand name ring spanner of the appropriate size? they'll grip the head better. this recently did wonders for me when trying to get off a seized 14mm nut on a belt tensioner :)

just to add: you can also try something like freeze-and-release from loctite and soak the bolt in it for a few hours then try again. it's worked for me before
and to add again: it's not normal for a 6 point socket to slip unless your angle is incorrect and you can't get the socket on properly (in which case you can't use the socket/rachet unless you can come up with a cunning system of extensions or CV joints that allows you to get the socket square onto the bolt. you'll never get a tight bolt off that with an improperly fitting socket!). if the socket is on squarely and it still slips, is your socket mangled? i know budget sockets often destroy themselves on high-torque bolts - try investing in a brand name socket in this case :)

[Neesmo31]

Rattle gun and impact sockets?

[Chriskoss]

Yeah I might use a rattle gun or impact drill. Will buy one when I get some spare dosh.. looks like the only other option

[wAYzoR]

Are you hitting it with a rubber mallet or a hammer? I find working with a good spanner and big rubber mallet alot nicer to crack bolts rather then a hammer... If that doesn't work a good rattle gun it is.. Good luck

[aaronng]

^^ Yeah, hammer for some reason just causes the spanner to bounce back. A rubber mallet is much better.

[Sir_vtec]

but seriously... I just think a quality socket and a quality 1ft + breaker bar will do the job heck u wont even need wd40. Just turn the wheel to one side for easier access. I guess if you have no tools then u would attempt with a spanner and mullet, but ffs go buy a breaker bar man, makes life 1000x easier.

[Chriskoss]

Ive used a breaker bar.. made my own, 1ft long, still wont budge, I can feel the bolt rounding off now, yeah my socket set it cheap but it fits on the bolt fine, its just bloody tight, im no weak fellow either, will an electric impact driver do the trick?

[bennjamin]

either, will an electric impact driver do the trick?

probably not. An electric impact gun applies its max power for a short time only , dropping to a 75%-90% grunt for most of its charge then goes dead flat. My point is on these stubborn bolts , you would have to be DEAD straight on with a 6 sided socket to achieve the strongest hit of torque to crack the bolt.

[aaronng]

Ive used a breaker bar.. made my own, 1ft long, still wont budge, I can feel the bolt rounding off now, yeah my socket set it cheap but it fits on the bolt fine, its just bloody tight, im no weak fellow either, will an electric impact driver do the trick?
1 ft breaker bar is too short. Mine is 2 ft long. At 2 ft, the torque you apply will be double that of the 1 ft for the same amount of strength used.

Stop trying until you get proper good 6-point sockets. Once you round it, it will be many times more difficult to remove.

[Neesmo31]

By the sound of how its all going i reckon the head of the bolt is rounded or damaged enough so that when you put some decent leverage on there it will just slip off. 1ft is tiny for a breaker bar. You need 1/2" drive stuff, and at least 2ft of leverage to have any sort of chance in removeing that kind of bolt.

I know its shit spending money but go down to your local and buy a nice 1/2" drive breaker bar (as it sounds like you like doing work yourself) and some new good sockets to suit, and you will not regret that you did. You will use it all the time for other odd jobs that come up and you will be happy that you bought it.

If its starting to round off now and slip, dont do anything more until you get some good tools or a hand. As you will end up having to cut the head off the nut, drill and tap a new thread which is a bit more effort that just undoing a bolt.

Good luck mate.

[aaronng]

Doesn't even need to be a nice breaker bar. I have 1 nice one and 1 supercheap one which I bought for $17. The supercheap one works fine for most bolts.

[Paul1985]

Rattle gun and impact sockets?

Probably would struggle to get a rattle gun and socket onto the caliper bolts..

If you had an oxy welder you could heat the bolt up and it would come out easily.

[na-118]

LOl picture showing it slowly getting stripped abit of wd40, 75 mm breaker bar, if not rattle gun with a i think 916 impact swivel socket,

[chrome]

You mentioned your socket fits on the bolt fine, but you feel it slipping. My advise is that you need to go get better sockets, the cheap ones tends to yield when you try and crack a stubborn bolt. A 2 foot breaker (1/2" drive) and a decent quality socket should be your next step before you totally round off the head.

You need to turn the steering all the way to the right (if you are working on the right side front caliper), which will face the caliper out of the wheel well and give you the most space to use a long breaker bar.

If you do round off the head, then you might still be able to get it off by using special sockets that grab the flats rather than the corners. Metrinch makes such a set, but quite expensive to get. You might just want to bring it to a shop and have them deal with it then.

[Neesmo31]

Wouldnt you need to heat the alloy up so it expands off the bolt? The thermal difference between the 2 should see the alloy expand before the bolt does. When i say nice breaker bar i mean a nice long one lol. Difference between good and shit breaker bars (if the same length) is nothing, would just be how much strain they could take before they break.

Man this bolt must be one tough cookie!

[Limbo]

well with breaker bar it its seized it should snap off at worst.

[Neesmo31]

Im thinking thats what might happen. Remember once you get them out - renew the bolts and perhaps run a tap through the hole to clean out any foreign shit, then locktite nickel anti seize and torque it to the proper setting and youll be laughing.

[wAYzoR]

As stated above, good tools will get you along way and you will never regret it later on. What you want to do is try to crack the bolt first, giving it slow torque you will have a higher chance of snapping the bolt.

[Chriskoss]

OK guys, some really good advice there, I appreciate all your helpful inputs..
Will buy a breaker bar, and some good sockets. How do I tell if theyre good sockets? Just buy the most expensive ones? Ill try look out for sidchrome or snap on..and go from there

I did read heating up the bolt with a torch will get it free, that may be my next step after forking out for new sockets

[aaronng]

OK guys, some really good advice there, I appreciate all your helpful inputs..
Will buy a breaker bar, and some good sockets. How do I tell if theyre good sockets? Just buy the most expensive ones? Ill try look out for sidchrome or snap on..and go from there

I did read heating up the bolt with a torch will get it free, that may be my next step after forking out for new sockets

Good does not mean by brand. The toughest socket would be an impact socket which are usually black in colour. Combine that with a 6-point that doesn't slip, you get one of the best sockets. I have a cheap $40 set off ebay, but it is a set of metric 6-point impact sockets which has almost no brand but is still much tougher and less likely to slip when compared to a Sidchrome set.

[Chriskoss]

Thanks Aaaron, that helps..

Im confused which sizes I need.. theres like 1/2''.. 3/4'' etc etc.. is 1/2 '' the normal size for aus?

P.S could you throw me a link on ebay for a socket set you would reccommend like the one you got off ebay

thanks

edit : Something like http://cgi.ebay.com.au/PROTECH-9pcs-3-8-Chrome-Vanadium-Impact-Sockets-A-F_W0QQitemZ110461235831QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Hand_ Tools?hash=item19b800b277

or http://cgi.ebay.com.au/GENIUS-8pcs-Chrome-Vanadium-3-8-Dr-Impact-Sockets_W0QQitemZ120496955771QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU _Hand_Tools?hash=item1c0e2da17b

[aaronng]

Thanks Aaaron, that helps..

Im confused which sizes I need.. theres like 1/2''.. 3/4'' etc etc.. is 1/2 '' the normal size for aus?

P.S could you throw me a link on ebay for a socket set you would reccommend like the one you got off ebay

thanks

edit : Something like http://cgi.ebay.com.au/PROTECH-9pcs-3-8-Chrome-Vanadium-Impact-Sockets-A-F_W0QQitemZ110461235831QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Hand_ Tools?hash=item19b800b277

or http://cgi.ebay.com.au/GENIUS-8pcs-Chrome-Vanadium-3-8-Dr-Impact-Sockets_W0QQitemZ120496955771QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU _Hand_Tools?hash=item1c0e2da17b
1/4", 3/8", 1/2" are the square drive size. That's the size of the square hole on one side of the socket. You chose them based on the torque you will apply and what you are using the socket on. 1/4" is more for trim, airbox or other really low torque bolts. 1/2" is the standard that we use for most bolts on the car except for the hub nut. 3/8" is in between the two, which I use only if I am in a cramped space and the 1/4" is too small to handle the torque.

The two ebay links you provided are for A/F sized sockets (measured in inches), which don't fit Hondas. Hondas use metric sized nuts and bolts, so you need to get metric sockets (measured in mm).

Have a look at these. They have most of the sizes you need, except for 15mm, which is used for only a few bolts on the car (fan belt tensioner pulley on mine).

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/15PCS-1-2-DR-SHALLOW-AIR-IMPACT-SOCKET-SET-CRV-10-32MM_W0QQitemZ350282709152QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Ha nd_Tools?hash=item518e79f8a0
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/11pc-1-2-DR-AIR-IMPACT-SOCKET-SET-METRIC-new_W0QQitemZ160380171799QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Def aultDomain_15?hash=item2557673617
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/10-PC-IMPACT-Socket-Set-1-2-Drive-Metric_W0QQitemZ300364913379QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_ Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item45ef24dae3

[Chriskoss]

Thanks aaron, you've been most helpful, I understand now about the sizes... ill buy a 1/2'' dr breaker bar to suite the sockets, should do the trick fine.. Really hope the bolt isnt rounded off to much.. it still grips onto my 5 dollar set sockets fine enough though!

Ill let you all know how it goes

Much appreciated

[na-118]

lol what have you been using 38? use 3/4 haha

[aaronng]

lol what have you been using 38? use 3/4 haha

Not much space behind the brake rotor to fit a 3/4 though. :p

[na-118]

1/2 inch swivel socket won't help?

[Neesmo31]

Usually...

1/4" - nipping up hose clamps, small electrical brackets, interior hardware.
3/8" - seat rail bolts, rocker cover bolts, mounting brackets for ps/as.
1/2" - suspension bolts, brake hardware, engine mounts, hub nuts.
3/4" - nothing on a car should warrant using that.

Just as a basic guide - PS how did you go?

[na-118]

you know what 3/4 i was talking about 3/4 socket on half inchmate, i know what i use my tools for

[Neesmo31]

Righto righto.. not having a go or anything just a bit of help for old mate.

[ewendc2r]

Two words. Impact Wrench.

[Chriskoss]

Update..

Finally bit the bullet and bought a proper socket set. Luckily supercheapauto had a catalogue sale on, and picked up this nice set for 100 bucks down from 200!.. comes with everything I need like breaker bar, swivel socket adapter, good sockets.. and its friggin' good quality, tough as nails! Hopefully it will get the job done, will let everyone know how it goes.. cheers

[Neesmo31]

Good on you man. What brand is it? All you need now is a nice 3/8 drive set - repco got a sale on sidchrome kits atm. And some beautiful sidchrome metric ratchet ring spanners... *homer drool noise*

[lithium]

good choice - good tools are the way to go
just to check, you aren't using an imperial socket on a metric bolt are you?

[aaronng]

Nice. Notice they are all 12 point, so in the future, you might want to get a 6-point short impact socket set from ebay if you come across more supertight bolts.

[Limbo]

judging from the ratchet looks like a decent set.

[Chriskoss]

Its a very decent set. Its multi grooved sockets, they got the caliper bolts off in a flash..

Anybody know by any chance.. how to wind the front caliper pistons back in, they cant fit over my new pads

thanks

Oh and I realised I was going the wrong way at first with my old socket set, and thus tightening the bolts. But I realised I was going the wrong way.. I thought left was loose, right tight.. but it was right loose.. duno how that works.

[wAYzoR]

LOL its good to hear you got it off mate, ya probably got it mixed up with direction because you were looking it at from the back side of the bolt. Remember.. righty tighty, lefty loosey..

[grifty]

lefty loosey righty tighty, hopefully that will help you remember next time.

$100 is pretty good for a set like that, i need a new set since i broke a ratchet and a few other things lol.

[Chriskoss]

Yeah wayzor I used that rule, but it was the opposite way to loosen/tighten, prob cuz im looking at the bolt from the front side, and if I looked from under the car at the back of the caliper it'd be the correct way lol.. o well all is well ends well..

Got the 2 front rotors and new disc pads on, took me liek 4 hrs to figure it all out, I firstly put the new rear rotors on the front and I was like wtf this doesnt look right LOL.. ahh you learn as you do it hey

will post pics up tomorrow in the light to show how they look, not bad for 240 AUD for a brand new set of F+R slotted and drilled rotors with F+R pads.. from US ebay

[altong0840]

i got mine stuck before as well~ finally i use a 3M extend on my beak bar to undo the bolt~ yes! 3Metre long beak bar extend! fish oil+ WD-40

[Limbo]

Use clamp on the piston, its the easiest or a big flathead screwdriver.

Just a though you may want to replace those bolts you've almost destroyed so that they don't round off later


Its a very decent set. Its multi grooved sockets, they got the caliper bolts off in a flash..

Anybody know by any chance.. how to wind the front caliper pistons back in, they cant fit over my new pads

thanks

Oh and I realised I was going the wrong way at first with my old socket set, and thus tightening the bolts. But I realised I was going the wrong way.. I thought left was loose, right tight.. but it was right loose.. duno how that works.

[kccord]

Sorry if this has been suggested, buy one of those butane torces from bunnings, Heat up the knuckle around the bolt until dark red and tap it with hammer slightly while undoing it with breaker bar.


My friends oddysey same case, hopefully no idiot mechanic put loctite in there or someshit on last change.

[bennjamin]

Sorry if this has been suggested, buy one of those butane torces from bunnings, Heat up the knuckle around the bolt until dark red and tap it with hammer slightly while undoing it with breaker bar.


My friends oddysey same case, hopefully no idiot mechanic put loctite in there or someshit on last change.


do not do this if you intend to reuse the knuckle....heating up can change its metal properties/structure and thus strength.

[Chriskoss]

Yeha thanks limbo.. I luckily found a small enough G clamp and it worked wonders.. now I just need to take some fluid out.. straw + suck it in should work? lol nah I need a syringe or someshiii

[kccord]

do not do this if you intend to reuse the knuckle....heating up can change its metal properties/structure and thus strength.

Minor heat will not cause the knuckle to suffice, we're talking about pee wee butane torch to heat up bonded material/expand a bit to whatever is stuck in there, not an oxy. Knuckle/caliper area are more subjected to regular heating/cooling at rapid rates during daily moderate driving, brakes are friction heat exchangers.

Or should I say heat up the caliper bracket around the threaded hole, not knuckle.

Work in mining workshop, we heat up lighty with an oxy on seized bolts to get them off. Notice the word lighty/dark red colour.

$0.02

[felixd]

if not then take it to the mechanic to take em out :)

[bennjamin]

Minor heat will not cause the knuckle to suffice, we're talking about pee wee butane torch to heat up bonded material/expand a bit to whatever is stuck in there, not an oxy. Knuckle/caliper area are more subjected to regular heating/cooling at rapid rates during daily moderate driving, brakes are friction heat exchangers.

Or should I say heat up the caliper bracket around the threaded hole, not knuckle.

Work in mining workshop, we heat up lighty with an oxy on seized bolts to get them off. Notice the word lighty/dark red colour.

$0.02

Not biting your head off - just thinking in a different direction than you are.


While it works on the field - its not common mechanic practice.
My point is , on the internet this is very bad advice. People will take this info and possibly damage their car components and injure themselves or another person/s. And then very likely come here and blame you and sue you. It can and has happened :)
Thats why its important to suggest realistic , safe variations on possible answers guys n girls !

[aaronng]

Yeha thanks limbo.. I luckily found a small enough G clamp and it worked wonders.. now I just need to take some fluid out.. straw + suck it in should work? lol nah I need a syringe or someshiii

Use a large syringe or get a turkey baster from coles. Don't use a straw because you might ingest some or it might drip onto your paint and damage it.

[bennjamin]

Use a large syringe or get a turkey baster from coles. Don't use a straw because you might ingest some or it might drip onto your paint and damage it.


or try this for the tightasses like me

Grab a small/medium sized water bottle , make sure its clean and dry. Get a silicon or plastic/rubber tube around 20-30 cm.
All you do is cut/drill/push a small hole in the lid big enough for the pipe to fit thru , make sure its reasonably air tight and you now have a DIY bleeder/sucker tool ! Great for both bleeding brakes / clutch slaves or for sucking any type of liquid out of a spot.

[Neesmo31]

I could say something dirty regarding girls/girlfreinds but i wont lol. I think this has been a very comprehensive thread regarding 1 stuck bolt! Yeah all i can say is good loctite nickel antiseize and torque your bolts up correctly. Many people swing off breaker bars tightening things up but its totally unecessary. A correctly torqued bolt will not come loose.

[Chriskoss]

or try this for the tightasses like me

Grab a small/medium sized water bottle , make sure its clean and dry. Get a silicon or plastic/rubber tube around 20-30 cm.
All you do is cut/drill/push a small hole in the lid big enough for the pipe to fit thru , make sure its reasonably air tight and you now have a DIY bleeder/sucker tool ! Great for both bleeding brakes / clutch slaves or for sucking any type of liquid out of a spot.

Thanks Bennjamin, Ill try that!