Confused DC5S owners: Done the research on mods for you ..

[Lucas]

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[GSi_PSi]

what if your a hero and a wannabe

[beeza]

^^ LOLOLOL

This is one for the king of DC5,TIMMY!

[r3ckless]

waht type of fujitsubo?

[[Type_R]]

Fujitsubo RM01A ftw.

[burak213]

modding your car you should follow one rule


Do it once, do it right.

so spend the extra cash so it wont haunt you later on. Trust me its worth it

[Timmy_B]

modding your car you should follow one rule


Do it once, do it right.

so spend the extra cash so it wont haunt you later on. Trust me its worth it

Thats a better write up than the OP.

:thumbsup:

[45SET]

What about tyres, rims, stiffer sway bars, camber kits?

Personally if I was starting my Integra all over again I would go
- Decent coilovers (Tein SS as a minimum, but have heard good things about Tein Basic)
- Thicker/stiffer sway bars front and rear (24mm whiteline)
- Lower offset & wider rims (17x8 +35 as a minimum)
- Wider profile tyres (With 17x8 you can run 225/45)
- VERY good tyres (To many to mention)
- Rear camber kit (You'll need it to fit the tyres in the guards)

And that’s before you even start to worry about any form of engine/intake/exhaust work. If you drive the car right (Into a corner, mid corner, out of the corner) you'll have more then enough power. I’ve found that intake and exhaust mods have more of a placebo effect… in that you can actually hear that the intake/exhaust is louder, so you think that your going faster… when in actual fact you’ve probably only made 1-2kw at the wheels, and its probably no faster then stock.

Personally I found that the above mentioned suspension/wheel modifications gave the best instant results out of everything I've done to the car (Except for K-Pro). The coilovers stiffened the ride, and the swaybars did so even more. Having the wider track, and wider rims/tyres meant that I could hold a higher speed mid corner, and exit the corner faster. I’m currently running Kuhmo KU36 tyres, and I was amazed with their grip, it was truly one of the best mods I’ve done to the car.

Basically, there is no point in having heaps of power, if you can’t get it to the ground.

But like Burak said

Do it once, do it right! If this means you have to save up that extra $1000 to but a decent sent of coilovers (so you can be a “hero/wannabe”), do it. Burak and I use to actually run Eibach springs on stock shocks, we have both changed to coilovers, and both of us agree that there is light and day between the two. When I changed to Tein SS the results were well worth the extra money.

Edit: Also forgot engine mounts as an awesome mod. The inserts work a treat, and for ~$100 they are an awesome mod as the get rid of all axel tramp, meaning you can launch from higher revs!

[lithium]

nice post from the OP, interesting info and good research

what sort of gains do you expect with the headers and exhaust?

having gone that route with a non-Honda car i have to agree that exhaust/intake probably have a larger placebo effect than an actual performance gain. however i have been led to believe by various ozhonda-ites that on a type-r v-tec engine breathing mods can *actually* net a significant performance gain? :confused:

[beeza]

If you're a hero or a wannabe:
JOIN THE AUSTRALIAN DEFENCE FORCE, that'll straighten you out guaranteed :)

SATAN wants U for his Army!

Kill someone and your a murderer,kill someone in a war and become a hero :confused:

Good luck with that one bro.

U can be ordered to kill,a servant for your master.

[RoryAlexander]

Beeza, if we didnt have these "servants" Australia would have been claimed by the Japanese over 60 years ago.

Anyway, i agree with the guys who believe learning how to drive and correctly set up your suspension is the right plan of attack.

Why have a car that accelerates harder if you still only holding the same cornering speeds as pre-modification? :P

[midnightdood]

This is well said!


Beeza, if we didnt have these "servants" Australia would have been claimed by the Japanese over 60 years ago.

[Lucas]

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[Lucas]

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[Lucas]

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[RoryAlexander]

45SET: thanks a lot for the info, but that's why I said Im after STREET fun not full on track performance unless you really need an extra speed "Into a corner, mid corner, out of the corner" while driving on the streets of Brisbane .. !

I think 45set was just saying that if your driving on the street (solely), your not going to be pushing your car hard enough to notice the gains from I/H/E + piggyback system when compared to the gains given from a good suspension set up. Some of the fun on the street is trying to take certain corners at the speed limit (give or take a little ;] ), and I/H/E wont change your cornering speed..

Each to his own of course, personally i quite like making noise. But how fast i can go in to and out of a corner is very important, in street terms.

[lithium]

Lithium: up to STEP 3, you get 20KW according to someone we all know.. been working on HONDAs for YEAAAARs.. no need to mention his name because Im not sure if he minds or not.

ah, thanks - 20kw is an ok gain. what does it do to the torque curve?

having gone that way myself previously (and now knowing better), as you are after a street setup, i think killer wasps probably aren't what you're actually after. for city driving torque is king! sacrificing low to mid-range torque for a free flowing top end will actually make you slower in every day driving :) that said if the factory design is crap, you can occasionally find a set of aftermarket headers/exhaust that can indeed boost torque throughout the rev range. if you've already bought it all i hope the TODA ones are doing that?

[Lucas]

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[Lucas]

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[45SET]

45SET: thanks a lot for the info, but that's why I said Im after STREET fun not full on track performance unless you really need an extra speed "Into a corner, mid corner, out of the corner" while driving on the streets of Brisbane .. !


Do you have any mountains near where you live? Go for a drive through the mountains with your car, and "chase" a car with well sorted suspension (Even if its a EK4). It'll pull away from you in the corners, and be able to carry more speed out of them. Even though it might not have anywhere near as much power as your car, because it can carry a higher speed through the corner, It'll be faster.




RIMS? for the street what's wrong with originals?
TYRES? for the STREET whats wrong with Adrenalines ?
Sway bars? again... the originals are OK for daily driving ..


Rims: Stock rims are 17x7 +45. The rims I am recommending would be 17x8 +35.

So, for starters the rims are 1' wider then stock, so you'll be able to have a wider tyre on the rim... meaning more contact with the ground. A lower offset pushes the rims out closer to the guard, means that the car actually has a wider track, which means you'll get better traction through corners.

Not sure on how good the Adrenalines are, so I'm not going to comment, but I'm certain there are tyres out there that are better.

Sway bars. The stock ones are hollow, so aren't as stiff as a solid one. I know with the DC5R the sway bars are 22mm stock, and the whiteline ones I have are 24mm. I didn't think there would be much of a differace, but it just made the car that bit more stiff.



what you're talking about is absolutely correct, but a "next level" upgrades.. track upgrades.. where microseconds count..


you'll be quicker then a microsecond with the above mods I've suggested... I would hazard a guess at +5 seconds on a track



AND I said Im NOT an XPERT which means I dont know it all, and I might be all wrong... and Again I appreciate the info..

Not trying to be rude, but if your not an expert at this, then why are you giving people advice on how to modify their cars? Sure, giving advice is always a positive, but you've come onto the forum, told people that they are "wasting" money (Being a hero/wannabe) by doing certain mods to their cars.

You also say you are moding your car for "Street"... what does this mean? What is your end goal with the car?

[Honda_machine1]

Orrrrr instead, you could just not mod your type S cause there sweet as they are and spend the extra money on stuff that gives you more excitement like wakeboards, snowboards, surfboards and dinners out with girls...

But ey whatever floatsyour boat. Speaking of boats....those coilovers you didnt buy could get you 20% of the way to a boat.

[burak213]

Honda machine, im guessing you recently got your S?

you get bored after awhile and need to change it up to keep the fire alive with your car

[WATAJK]

Honda machine, im guessing you recently got your S?

you get bored after awhile and need to change it up to keep the fire alive with your car

+1
Got bored with my R
Started with a gearknob..
Its gotten really bad from then on LOL

[Honda_machine1]

Naaa ive had it for over a year easily. Its fun to drive, no need for all the other shit.

Balance it out and get a thrill from other things, ive ridden in cars that are rediculously fast, its good for a day but you get over it pretty quick. Theres other stuff to give you a higher thrill around!

[Lucas]

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[chargeR]

45SET:
Mate relax.. I said its just MY OPINION.. take it easy ..

You do your thing, and I do mine..

45SET hasn't fired up at all champ, so there is no need to tell him to relax ;). He is just giving his opinion.

I am inclined to agree with the guy, he suggests a very good alternative. The parts you have recommended are a nice beginning but none of them are near the best, and they certainly aren't for everyone.

A car modified in the way you suggest would in my opinion handly poorly, be too quiet, and be inconsistent on track. Completely unsuitable for me :).

[Lucas]

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[burak213]

what would be next for me?

i got wheels and coilovers

what should i do for handling mods?

also i got a cai would a header be worth it?

[nigs]

You're forgetting we are all Honda drivers.
So it's all ABOUT the VTEC.

Geeze, why else did we buy the car?
Certainly not for the light weight chassis, awesomely engineered motor from factory or great economy with a pinch of performance.

Noooo, it's all about the noise and fancy brand name parts.
So spending $5,000 odd dollars for louder VTEC sounds perfectly normal.

Fark corners, it's a FWD car.

/sarcasm

[GSi_PSi]

Confused DC5S owners! : should of bought a typeR

[burak213]

Confused DC5S owners! : should of bought a typeR

hahahaha :p

[02gzm]

In the area of suspension, take a look at Tanabe Sustec Pro 5's. (http://www.tanabe-usa.com/five.asp?id=20) If I had a DC5 I'd be getting a set of these. I found them when looking for new coilovers for my EG. My mate ended up getting a set for his DC5R and thinks they're better than his old HKS Hypermax 2's. And similiarly priced to the (overly expensive) Tein SS's. Win-Win situation.

JDM Concept sell them too.

[u mad?]

SATAN wants U for his Army!

Kill someone and your a murderer,kill someone in a war and become a hero :confused:

Good luck with that one bro.

U can be ordered to kill,a servant for your master.

:thumbdwn:

[lithium]

Give me til xmas, everything will be installed and I'll give you the honest verdict :)

best of luck and i hope it gives you the result you are after :)
actually i somewhat agree with those saying go suspension rather than power. you can spend a bucketload chasing straight line speed on your integra but at the end of the day - it's an N/A 4-banger, and you'll still get burnt easily by factory standard V8s, modern V6s and various modern turbo cars.

the area your car already excels in, straight from the factory, is turning corners and low weight. spend some money in those areas and it'll become second to none in handling :)

if you do nothing else for suspension i suggest - upgrade the rear sway bar (eg. whiteline one). by far the best value for money mod i've ever done to a FWD car

[r3ckless]

hopefully im getting my N+ installed this week. Im only going to get a toda header and exhaust - only if the price is a good buy. Dont really want speed, as i reckon the car is fast enough for sydney speed limits.

[Zinyo]

best of luck and i hope it gives you the result you are after :)
actually i somewhat agree with those saying go suspension rather than power. you can spend a bucketload chasing straight line speed on your integra but at the end of the day - it's an N/A 4-banger, and you'll still get burnt easily by factory standard V8s, modern V6s and various modern turbo cars.

the area your car already excels in, straight from the factory, is turning corners and low weight. spend some money in those areas and it'll become second to none in handling :)

if you do nothing else for suspension i suggest - upgrade the rear sway bar (eg. whiteline one). by far the best value for money mod i've ever done to a FWD car

I'm also planning to buy a rear sway bar for my DC5R and i got a few questions;
1.) What brands should i look for?
2.) How much would it set me back?
3.) Where can i purchase it? If you could point me to the right direction...
4.) What sort of changes/improvements should i expect once i get it installed (In terms of control, ride comfort going down the drain?, stiffnes, etc)
5.) I was also gonna buy a Beaks tie bar, would it have the same effect? Was thinking its one or the other...or both?

Need some pro advice bro

[Waggy]

I need to know if anyone has researched this one:

Are engine mounts REQUIRED when purchasing a header? I've heard you at least need inserts or you risk cracking your header from engine movement/fouling on the sway bar. Does getting an EP3 sway fix this or should you still get inserts at least?

[r3ckless]

Im not sure dude. But my car was owned by a 60 yo grandmother before i purchased it.. and after two months of driving. i had to replace the front engine mount 9 loving the extended warranty).... im gonna get innovative mounts sometime in 2010.

[02gzm]

Lol your car has engine mounts already. That's what holds the engine to the chassis. I think you meant solid mounts? No they aren't required. Your exhaust will have a flex/donut join to allow slight movement. You'll need an aftermarket or EP3 swaybar to clear the aftermarket headers too.

[lithium]

I'm also planning to buy a rear sway bar for my DC5R and i got a few questions;
1.) What brands should i look for?
2.) How much would it set me back?
3.) Where can i purchase it? If you could point me to the right direction...
4.) What sort of changes/improvements should i expect once i get it installed (In terms of control, ride comfort going down the drain?, stiffnes, etc)
5.) I was also gonna buy a Beaks tie bar, would it have the same effect? Was thinking its one or the other...or both?

Need some pro advice bro

i should mention i don't have a DC5R - the sway bar was installed on my Barina SRi. therefore disclaimer: my advice is hardly pro advice or even specific to your car :eek: that said i can try to answer your questions based on what i've done :)

1) Whiteline is the big name in Australia
2) you'll have to find out but usually they aren't more than about $300 for the kit
3) http://www.whiteline.com.au/. or if you feel uncomfortable ordering online you can ask your nearest repco/supercrap to order it in for you :)
4) ride comfort does deteriorate but it's quite acceptable - mostly you'll feel the bumps come through more, especially when you go over one-rear-wheel bumps (as the swaybar reduces independence between the two sides of your suspension). in terms of improvement i felt:
a) less body roll
b) the car will feel less 'front heavy' in corners (it won't want to lean on it's front outside wheel as much when turning, it seems to want to lean on both outside wheels instead)
c) the car doesn't want to understeer as quickly
d) as there is less body roll, both the front wheels remain in contact with the ground in a corner, so it's easier to put the power down coming hard out of a corner
if you get an adjustable rear bar you can even choose your balance between comfort and awesomeness :)

[r3ckless]

sounds sweeet.. i'll prolyl invest in front and rear sway bars soon then.

[Waggy]

Lol your car has engine mounts already. That's what holds the engine to the chassis. I think you meant solid mounts? No they aren't required. Your exhaust will have a flex/donut join to allow slight movement. You'll need an aftermarket or EP3 swaybar to clear the aftermarket headers too.

Yeah no shit mate. I assume that most know what I mean when I say "mounts" considering everyone on here is an expert.... but anyway.

I think I'll still end up with inserts, but it's good to know I don't need them. Tah.

[Zinyo]

[QUOTE=lithium;2575179]i should mention i don't have a DC5R - the sway bar was installed on my Barina SRi. therefore disclaimer: my advice is hardly pro advice or even specific to your car :eek: that said i can try to answer your questions based on what i've done :)

1) Whiteline is the big name in Australia
2) you'll have to find out but usually they aren't more than about $300 for the kit
3) http://www.whiteline.com.au/. or if you feel uncomfortable ordering online you can ask your nearest repco/supercrap to order it in for you :)
4) ride comfort does deteriorate but it's quite acceptable - mostly you'll feel the bumps come through more, especially when you go over one-rear-wheel bumps (as the swaybar reduces independence between the two sides of your suspension). in terms of improvement i felt:
a) less body roll
b) the car will feel less 'front heavy' in corners (it won't want to lean on it's front outside wheel as much when turning, it seems to want to lean on both outside wheels instead)
c) the car doesn't want to understeer as quickly
d) as there is less body roll, both the front wheels remain in contact with the ground in a corner, so it's easier to put the power down coming hard out of a corner
if you get an adjustable rear bar you can even choose your balance between comfort and awesomeness :)[/QUOTE

Thank brother:thumbsup:

Ne one here with first hand experience (DC5R) can point me to the right direction on which rear sway bar i should look into? Worth getting a BEAKS tie bar instead?

[02gzm]

Yeah no shit mate. I assume that most know what I mean when I say "mounts" considering everyone on here is an expert.... but anyway.

I think I'll still end up with inserts, but it's good to know I don't need them. Tah.

Calm down cranky pants. Wtf is with people being so angry today.

Polyurethane inserts are a good cheaper alternative to solid mounts for a street car. An even cheaper alternative is filling them with Sikaflex. But they'll need good preparation and some time to dry.

[burak213]

worth getting a BEAKS tie bar instead?


Straight up answer - No.


Not worth the price. Not worth the installation hassle. Felt no difference to the car.


If you have money to burn, then buy it for the bling.

[Lucas]

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[Zinyo]

Straight up answer - No.


Not worth the price. Not worth the installation hassle. Felt no difference to the car.


If you have money to burn, then buy it for the bling.

Thought so..rear sway bar it is

[Lucas]

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[burak213]

and???

[Lucas]

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[burak213]

was it worth it?

[MWAKU]

what if your a hero and a wannabe

:thumbsup: LKOLOLOLOLO

[Lucas]

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[Lucas]

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[45SET]

was it worth it?

Geek, it might only seem like a 20-30kw increase in power, but the torque/power you get across the entire rev range is awesome.

As Lucas (And anyone else with Hondata on a K-series) will tell you, it's well worth the money.

[Lucas]

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[M@lew]

Just get some semi-slicks. :D

[r3ckless]

wow.. k pro for type s is a waste ofmoney, if u gotta get a type r ecu lol

[Lucas]

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[burak213]

can i ask why you didnt do the other mods planned in ur first post b4 you got the kpro?

[Lucas]

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[45SET]

Keeping traction @ wot 1st gear is almost impossible with my current tires atm :) I always have to go part throttle then increase gradually ..

Im going to get new tires soon.. I know getting traction wot 1st gear in DC5 once the power is increased is one of the weak points in those cars launches , but if anyone got any advice let me know. :)

Refer my first post I made in this thread...

[timofytit]

best of luck and i hope it gives you the result you are after :)
actually i somewhat agree with those saying go suspension rather than power. you can spend a bucketload chasing straight line speed on your integra but at the end of the day - it's an N/A 4-banger, and you'll still get burnt easily by factory standard V8s, modern V6s and various modern turbo cars.

the area your car already excels in, straight from the factory, is turning corners and low weight. spend some money in those areas and it'll become second to none in handling :)

if you do nothing else for suspension i suggest - upgrade the rear sway bar (eg. whiteline one). by far the best value for money mod i've ever done to a FWD car

Hahahaha. I don't agree with your first paragraph in the least. 2nd Paragraph is they are not low weight, a CRX, MX5, and Lotus Elise are lightweight 4 bangers. I need another Jim Beam.


Anyway, back to the main topic. Thats some good mods you have made. Seems to be working well. If you are having problems with traction, you can try the Toyo Proxes R1R's. They work well for mine on the street, and it has a little more power, so should work for you. They come at a good price too. Just check the treadwear on what you buy in tyres too. The lower the number the more traction, but the quicker they will wear out. R1R's i have are TW140. 180 is usually the start for a good performance tyre. Semi's are 100 and below.

[Nepolian]

wow.. k pro for type s is a waste ofmoney, if u gotta get a type r ecu lol

You really know what you're talkin about there!!??


to get the best output after step 1 mods ( i/h/e ), I have to tune.
But how am i gonna tune if the K20Z1 ecu can not be tuned .. that's why I got Kpro ..

+ Im not going sc until Kraftwerks release the sc kit Im waiting for.. (where you keep your ac). they'll release it very soon.

That kit should be pretty good :thumbsup:

[r3ckless]

You really know what you're talkin about there!!??



That kit should be pretty good :thumbsup:

What i meant in that, is, IMO, if i was chasing power from a DC5, i would personally get a DC5R, and work from that.

[u mad?]

What i meant in that, is, IMO, if i was chasing power from a DC5, i would personally get a DC5R, and work from that.

umm why?



also, are you aware that the k20z is more powerful than a k20a2?

[r3ckless]

its only wat 7 or 8 kw?

Maybe i jsut being a tightass and seeing that teh k20z ecu isnt compatible with Kpro also lol.

[WATAJK]

umm why?



also, are you aware that the k20z is more powerful than a k20a2?

Please,
Type R over S anyday.
You want more a race feel, the R was always the better option.
7kws i believe, big deal??
Start doing mod's on a R and that quickly changes, also correct me if im wrong,
Doesn't the R respond much better to mods then the S or am i wrong ? (correct me if i am seriously)

Thanks.

[02gzm]

^^ Plus the R has LSD, is lighter and has a stiffer chassis.

But leather and a sunroof in the S is always a nice bonus :)
All depends if you're after a racey sports car or a luxury sports car. Pro's and con's to each.

[WATAJK]

^^ Plus the R has LSD, is lighter and has a stiffer chassis.

But leather and a sunroof in the S is always a nice bonus :)
All depends if you're after a racey sports car or a luxury sports car. Pro's and con's to each.

Thats it, im gettin a sunroof in my R eventually cant wait :)

[r3ckless]

^^ Plus the R has LSD, is lighter and has a stiffer chassis.

But leather and a sunroof in the S is always a nice bonus :)
All depends if you're after a racey sports car or a luxury sports car. Pro's and con's to each.


True that, and also i think OP has got springs for his sussy setup?

I would rather go around a corner with speed, rather than going ina stiraght line with speed.

[02gzm]

Thats it, im gettin a sunroof in my R eventually cant wait :)

If you're going down that route do a full roof transplant.
i.e. drill out the welds and swap the entire panel with a DC5 roof that already contains a sunroof.

Aftermarket sunroofs are never good in the long run.

[WATAJK]

If you're going down that route do a full roof transplant.
i.e. drill out the welds and swap the entire panel with a DC5 roof that already contains a sunroof.

Aftermarket sunroofs are never good in the long run.

Well there guys that will be doing my sunroof are recommended by honda and offer me a lifetime gurantee so i don't think it'll give me dramas.
Down side its going to cost $3500.
Lifetime gurantee can't go wrong

[markis]

as far as i see.
dc5R - recaros, crashy ride, poor bracing and rigidity, noisier, lighter by a slight margin. add a/c and the car is nearly 1250kg... oh and a helical lsd. :D
dc5S - better comfier seats, leather, sunroof, more bracing (honda quotes 21% torsional rigidity front and 25% rear.) more deadening, thicker sway bars, more power, more torque, more linear.

DC5R - boyracer image.
DC5S - Gentle refined touring car.

having driven both. i find the DC5S quicker, heavier, more comfortable, but lacks an lsd.

also the finish and feel of the DC5S is far superior to the DC5R

[rossirider]

^^ Plus the R has LSD, is lighter and has a stiffer chassis.

But leather and a sunroof in the S is always a nice bonus :)
All depends if you're after a racey sports car or a luxury sports car. Pro's and con's to each.

I don't really see the attraction to leather at all. In the summer its hot as hell and burns your skin, In the winter its cold as hell too. You slide around so much more on the leather and the seats don't hold you in at all on the S

[maracer]

Nice read Lucas:)

Good to see some people are happy to share there personal mods/taste on their own ride:thumbsup:

BTW, great result on the dyno, was that at the wheels or hubs?

[Zinyo]

as far as i see.
dc5R - recaros, crashy ride, poor bracing and rigidity, noisier, lighter by a slight margin. add a/c and the car is nearly 1250kg... oh and a helical lsd. :D
dc5S - better comfier seats, leather, sunroof, more bracing (honda quotes 21% torsional rigidity front and 25% rear.) more deadening, thicker sway bars, more power, more torque, more linear.

DC5R - boyracer image.
DC5S - Gentle refined touring car.

having driven both. i find the DC5S quicker, heavier, more comfortable, but lacks an lsd.

also the finish and feel of the DC5S is far superior to the DC5R

u joined a month ago/4 days ago...each to their own...do u know wat ur talking about?

[GSi_PSi]

if only we got the JDM DC5R... 162kw+ brembos + etcccc

[DC5.Raven]

Nice Mods and Nice Gains btw.

Mind posting the Dyno charts?
Would be interesting to see the torque curve.

[markis]

u joined a month ago/4 days ago...each to their own...do u know wat ur talking about?

you joined over a year ago do you know what you're talking about?:thumbdwn: yes i can search and read, and if you step back and look at it. the DC5S is the series 2 of the DC5.

[markis]

hey lucas what power where you getting with the toda headers, injen and RM01 only. not including the Kpro?

[Zinyo]

you joined over a year ago do you know what you're talking about?:thumbdwn: yes i can search and read, and if you step back and look at it. the DC5S is the series 2 of the DC5.

Yes I do know what I'm talking about...I know enough to keep the DC5R vs DC5S cr*p down cos its been done to death and each to their own/have their own opinion...so its an endless and pointless argument. Feel better now Mr DC5S is far superior...?

[markis]

ur the one arguing. im done. my life doesnt revolve around forums...

[16OTH]

IMHO the DC5S is a little more refined than the R, that doesn;t make it better, it just makes it more appropriate for someone like me (I'm an advertising sales rep and prone to spending the entire day on the road doing client appointments etc)

On topic, that's a nice list of basic mods and obviously it has quite a bit of credit given your dyno results (although as we all know HP/KW is not the ultimate deciding factor in how successful mods are)

looking forward to seeing/hearing more about the supercharger project when you get it going

[Nepolian]

LOL! love the type s vs type r battles.....who will win??

OP please post dyno when you can :)

[Zinyo]

ur the one arguing. im done. my life doesnt revolve around forums...

no hard feelings markis...dont get put off...type s is a nice car regardless wat anyone said man

[WATAJK]

as far as i see.
dc5R - recaros, crashy ride, poor bracing and rigidity, noisier, lighter by a slight margin. add a/c and the car is nearly 1250kg... oh and a helical lsd. :D
dc5S - better comfier seats, leather, sunroof, more bracing (honda quotes 21% torsional rigidity front and 25% rear.) more deadening, thicker sway bars, more power, more torque, more linear.

DC5R - boyracer image.
DC5S - Gentle refined touring car.

having driven both. i find the DC5S quicker, heavier, more comfortable, but lacks an lsd.

also the finish and feel of the DC5S is far superior to the DC5R


Yeah and in all that i believe that the R was actually intended to be Track'd considering 74% of Honda Sales of the Type R went on the track not on Road. The Type R was only removed with a refined image as Honda wanted there Integras on the road, not on the track. You watch in 20 years time, which car do you believe people will be wanting more? The refined S or the R?
I think that says enough.

The R doesn't have sound deadening for that reason, if you wanted a Race car or a car that felt like it, the R was always the better option. I reckon the Recaro's are ****in comfy and im the 3rd Owner to my R.

R over S anyday.

Thats my 2cents but each to there own.

[Mugen_B16B]

as far as i see.
dc5R - recaros, crashy ride, poor bracing and rigidity, noisier, lighter by a slight margin. add a/c and the car is nearly 1250kg... oh and a helical lsd. :D
dc5S - better comfier seats, leather, sunroof, more bracing (honda quotes 21% torsional rigidity front and 25% rear.) more deadening, thicker sway bars, more power, more torque, more linear.

DC5R - boyracer image.
DC5S - Gentle refined touring car.

having driven both. i find the DC5S quicker, heavier, more comfortable, but lacks an lsd.

also the finish and feel of the DC5S is far superior to the DC5R

yeah the S means supercar and R mean rubbish, everyone should drive a type s

[markis]

but your guys forget that an integra is a terrible track car. there are far better things out there than a FF 1200kg car. eg. evo, lotus.

so take our vtec induced egos out of the equation. if you own a type R you will naturally say R, same with the S. perhaps build a bridge?

[Zinyo]

but your guys forget that an integra is a terrible track car. there are far better things out there than a FF 1200kg car. eg. evo, lotus.

so take our vtec induced egos out of the equation. if you own a type R you will naturally say R, same with the S. perhaps build a bridge?

agree with the 2nd sentence but since i havent tracked my car yet i have no right to say for the first sentence...perhaps the older boys that track their cars regularly can reply to your first sentence...LOL...

You really seem to know it all...I'll stop @ this; how much is a Lotus and how much is an evo (2002+)?

[burak213]

relax boys, no need to get offtopic.


Lucas, whats the plans for your car? track or the strip?

[markis]

agree with the 2nd sentence but since i havent tracked my car yet i have no right to say for the first sentence...perhaps the older boys that track their cars regularly can reply to your first sentence...LOL...

You really seem to know it all...I'll stop @ this; how much is a Lotus and how much is an evo (2002+)?

my 2001 evo VII was 28k. there is no 2002 evo apart from GTA but thats auto and pathetic. 04 was the next VIII

you can pick up a pre my00 elise for under 30k.:thumbsup: hope that answers your question;)

[Zinyo]

my 2001 evo VII was 28k. there is no 2002 evo apart from GTA but thats auto and pathetic. 04 was the next VIII

you can pick up a pre my00 elise for under 30k.:thumbsup: hope that answers your question;)

wouldnt bother with evo 7...either 8 or 9 and they're well over 30k? What "track weapon" lotus under 30k are you talking about? the Elan? Super Seven? The Elise is nice but well over 30k? :wave:

[markis]

wouldnt bother with evo 7...either 8 or 9 and they're well over 30k? What "track weapon" lotus under 30k are you talking about? the Elan? Super Seven? The Elise is nice but well over 30k? :wave:

why wouldnt you bother with a CT9A? i just sold my evo 7 for 28k how are they over 30k. my mate got her IX for 35k and my mate got a 8 for 25k. but then again going of generic car sites like carsales nets acurate results everytime.

firesport is your friend. youll find track ready cars on there. including lotus you can get a 01 boxster 2.7 for under 25k too. just as macho as a honda but arguably quicker

[WATAJK]

This is gettin way out of hand.. lol

[Zinyo]

why wouldnt you bother with a CT9A? i just sold my evo 7 for 28k how are they over 30k. my mate got her IX for 35k and my mate got a 8 for 25k. but then again going of generic car sites like carsales nets acurate results everytime.

firesport is your friend. youll find track ready cars on there. including lotus you can get a 01 boxster 2.7 for under 25k too. just as macho as a honda but arguably quicker

As i said i'd prefer 8 or 9 personally (7 is nice but i just like the look of the 8/9better) and then again props to ur friend for finding/paying 25k for an 8 :thumbsup: Your second paragraph doesnt really prove anything tho, firesport nets accurate results? Its just more convenient since its free...back on topic enough rant from the both of us

[chargeR]

This thread is getting super off topic. I like it.


but your guys forget that an integra is a terrible track car. there are far better things out there than a FF 1200kg car. eg. evo, lotus.

so take our vtec induced egos out of the equation. if you own a type R you will naturally say R, same with the S. perhaps build a bridge?

Drivetrain layout and speed are only one of many considerations for a good track car in my opinion. Reliability, cheapness and availability of parts, longevity, suitability for any potential race classes, are all things that might be a consideration for a thoughtful track goer. An Integra will be much easier on brakes and tyres for example than an Evo, and I would rather buy replacement OEM parts for an Integra than an Exige. Too often people focus on the ultimate time and buying baller parts and cars to achieve said time, whereas often the challenge and enjoyment is in developing a car and improving skills. A fast driver in a slow car will often beat a fast car with a slow driver.


Yeah and in all that i believe that the R was actually intended to be Track'd considering 74% of Honda Sales of the Type R went on the track not on Road. The Type R was only removed with a refined image as Honda wanted there Integras on the road, not on the track. You watch in 20 years time, which car do you believe people will be wanting more? The refined S or the R?
I think that says enough.

The R doesn't have sound deadening for that reason, if you wanted a Race car or a car that felt like it, the R was always the better option. I reckon the Recaro's are ****in comfy and im the 3rd Owner to my R.

R over S anyday.

Thats my 2cents but each to there own.

Please don't cut a hole in your car.


Both :)
My plan is to have a nice comfortable enjoyable ride, ready to track whenever I feel like it.

I got a copy of the Dyno in front of me but My scanner is packed with the rest of my stuff, because as you are all aware, I'm moving to Adelaide tomorrow.
I'll post the chart
s soon as I settle in.

Not trying to be an arse but if you wanted a car that you could track whenever you feel like you could have spent some of your money a little better. A few dollars on some brake pads, braided lines perhaps, a change of all fluids with some quality gear, a pair of camber bolts for the front and a stiffer rear sway bar. $500-600 and you would have a lot more fun on track. As it is you might find your brakes going away very quickly and you will burn the inside front tyre out of a lot of corners.

However too many people on this forum and others seem to think that tracking your car automatically makes you an awesome kid, and look down on those that don't. Track days are fun but they certainly aren't for everyone :).

[Nepolian]

Most people would not track their car once a year!

I will go out on a limb here and say that most people will choose power over handling. I think people are kidding themselves when they say things like, "Oh you own a Honda, don't worry about power, you can go better when you can out handle someone with better suspension" and go out and buy set of track coilovers and bounce all over the road and can't even get traction!

Truth is, most people here, I dare say over 90% are red light warriors. They race from street to street or light to light.......so end of the day, power is probably a little more favourable when speaking in the real world and I think thats what Lucas (OP) is pretty much trying to get at!

Anyway, back on topic....the point of this thread is to inform new and wannabe owners about the DC5S and there is some of us here ruining the thread!

[markis]

lol. anyway ill throw this in the works. injen ($500) vs fujita (430) vs AEM V2 (unsure) BBFYB?

[onesweetb0i]

injen

[r3ckless]

Hey guys, i jsut got the Toda Header installed, and its very striaght forward, i only came across one hassle. the back O2 sensor ... it didnt reach the header.... Was going to have an auto-electrician extend it, howeveri thought if we cut the tape securing it at the top, possibly - there would be some extra slack.

Thank god there was!

So anyone installing a toda header, and realsied the O2 sensor's cable wasnt long enough, there is enough slack, without trying to extend it!

[RED-DC5R]

you are the best =] very useful info