Oils for turbo B series?

[mooshie]

Interested in what everyone uses/recommends?

looking through other threads on oil on here, it seems to be the hydrocracked synthetic 10 or 5W-30 or full synthetic 0W-40 type oils that are the most popular. The first being around the $50 mark and second $80-$100.

I would think that the 0W-40 would give better lubrication at the higher temperatures involved in a turbo motor, but is it really that much better for the additional cost?

also, would the higher viscosity cause problems over the Honda recommended 30?

Currently I am using Royal Purple 0W-40 but looking to swap to Castrol Edge 5W-30 for better availability and price (can be as low as $30 on specials). This is on a Turbo B18C and very soon to have an oil cooler with thermostat installed.

[aaronng]

If you have an oil cooled turbo, then I would recommend you stick to Royal Purple or Edge 0w-40. The Edge 5w-30 is hydrocracked and might not be as resistant to heat as a PAO/ester synthetic.

[DLO01]

I used Royal Purple 10W40 in my Turbo ITR. :thumbsup:

[mooshie]

Any thoughts on the Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40? it is a full PAO synthetic as well and seems to be around the same standard price as the Castrol Edge.

[eg5civic]

If you have an oil cooled turbo, then I would recommend you stick to Royal Purple or Edge 0w-40. The Edge 5w-30 is hydrocracked and might not be as resistant to heat as a PAO/ester synthetic.

is 0w-40 no good for a normal b series...

i has a bottle and everyone said 5w-30 over the 0w-40

[Limbo]

i wouldn't go the 0w-40, it burns too fast, even with an oil cooler.
I ran it for a bit but got too much burn, i had the castrol edge.

Currently i'm running motul 10w-40, seems to be alot better even when i tracked it.
10w40 or the 5w50 are the thinest you should go.

You have to rem that even at normal driving turbo cars are alot hotter than standard cars.

When i was NA my oil temp would be about 60-70 degrees driving in normal traffic.
WHen i boosted it i added a larger oil cooler and even in normal traffic the oil stays at 80-90 degrees. I'm lucky my car on track also keeps at about the 90 degree mark, but it help to show the difference in na & turbo car temps on oil

I'm gonna give the mobil 1 5w50 a go again and see how we go

[aaronng]

Very odd, because at operating temperature (100ºC), the viscosity of 0w-40 and 10w-40 are the same.

[IEVAQ8]

i used to use mobile 10-40

[slidetaker]

Any thoughts on the Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40? it is a full PAO synthetic as well and seems to be around the same standard price as the Castrol Edge.

Helix Ultra 5W40 is mostly severly hydrocracked Grp III, but rest assure it is a good value for money product for your application. For 5W40, Motul X-cess is another one pretty much for the same price.

I will choose M1 0W40 for a little more money for daily road use. Better add packs and base oil.

Either M1 15W50 or Valvoline SynPower 10W50 shall give enough protection for racing track use.

[Limo]

i used to use mobile 10-40

same.. never a prob

[Lukezen27]

I'm using Edge 5w-30 :thumbsup:

Don't use a drop between oil changes

[aaronng]

i swear by penrite sin0 at operating temp it is supposed to have the same thickness as a 0W-40 oil but has the same resistance to shearing as a 0W-50 oil



actually they are not the same... 0w-40 is better as it will get to operating temperature quicker whereas the 10w-40 is doing harmful damage to the engine while its still warming up

but yes if they are both at operating temp they should be the same

my opinion is to use a ester and PAO based oil that gives you 0-5w(maybe 10w in summer) on startup with either a 40 viscosity rating at operating temperature for road use or 50 for the track

just my opinion
The first number is measured at -18 ºC. In our climate, it makes very little difference between we see temperatures from 10 ºC upwards. It is only in the snow fields where it makes a difference. Even so, the oil will flow at an even lower temperature of down to -30 ºC. So no, 10w-40 does not do harmful damage. Not sure where you heard that from.

[Limbo]

dunno might be brand, i ran the castrol edge first time 0w40 and motul 10w40.

or.... i'm loosing oil overnight

[destrukshn]

using 10w50 valvoline full synthetic (syn power i think its called)
for better temp control, as people say anyways.
never had a problem, though i do change it every 3000kms

[MacDiZZle]

The first number is measured at -18 ºC. In our climate, it makes very little difference between we see temperatures from 10 ºC upwards. It is only in the snow fields where it makes a difference. Even so, the oil will flow at an even lower temperature of down to -30 ºC. So no, 10w-40 does not do harmful damage. Not sure where you heard that from.

your right... saying its doing harmful damage may have been wrong BUT i said it to illustrate a point... not that the oil wont flow, but how quick it flows
because 0w oil is thinner and lighter at start up it gets to optimum temp quicker then 10w and the quicker you get the oil hot the sooner its going to start to protect your engine. if i drive out my driveway and to the end of my street (about 4 kms) the oil in my pan is already starting to register at 60 degrees which is a lot lot quicker then any other oil ive used.

also using sin0 i dont burn a drop in between services :thumbsup: i cant see any downsides

i also really liked Motul 300V 10W-40, but hated mobil 1... it burnt oil bad when i went to the track

[IsItQik??]

I use Syntholube TXI Xtreme 5w60. I've found it a little hard to find, so when I did I took as much as I could afford. It has been a fantastic oil, offering great protection and not burning a drop.
Mind you this is on a fully built, bored, sleeved b18c7 running a custom GT30 with 40mm Tial wastegate.

[lookingforboost]

Nulon 5-40 awesome love it and the money stays here ;)

[Limbo]

yeah but turbo cars get hotter than 100 degrees
the 10w40 is just slightly better


Very odd, because at operating temperature (100ºC), the viscosity of 0w-40 and 10w-40 are the same.

[trentd]

motul full synthetic 10-40w, perfect, feels smooth, warms up in good time, and doesn't heat up quickly.
i run a honda integra gsi turbo, and i reakon that the motul has done the best for me

[SLOWEGG]

If its only a stock motor, just use any synthetic 30 or 40 and you'll be fine. I know someone using OEM honda oil, no probs.

[VTi_b0i]

LOL so many different theories i have no idea what to use :S im due for a change now, so im looking at what to get...
for the last year ive been using Castrol Edge 5-30 (I think)

[SLOWEGG]

Just stick to what you have been using if you havent had problems with it. No need to spend big bucks when a <$50 bottle will do the same.

[trentd]

Just stick to what you have been using if you havent had problems with it. No need to spend big bucks when a <$50 bottle will do the same.

Good statement.


Motul has never let me down and after each oil change the car feels fantastic.
and much quicker with the motul. others i have used i haven't felt a difference after an oil change.

[VTi_b0i]

im just paranoid LOL after u factor in a conversion, then turbo kits, all sorts of bolt on mods, 20k+ has been spent and im paranoid it may blow up so i want to get the oil just right LOL im sure everyone on here understands

[Lukezen27]

im just paranoid LOL after u factor in a conversion, then turbo kits, all sorts of bolt on mods, 20k+ has been spent and im paranoid it may blow up so i want to get the oil just right LOL im sure everyone on here understands

20K without LDS Christian :eek:


You need that fixed soon :p

[DLO01]

If you use a decent oil, it would be the last of your worries. :p

[mooshie]

I went for the Edge 0W-40, I think that it is a little too thin when cold, might try something in a 10W next time. I noticed that it accentuated a couple of small oil leaks that I have near the bottom of the block, no drips, but you can see where the oil is coming out.

My car tends to sit cold for a while as it is a toy and not a DD

[Limbo]

mine's the same, but i don't have any leaks showing.
It just seems to burn when i track it

[trentd]

lol i'm buying oil tonight.

[VTi_b0i]

I do have LSD Luke LOL i got that done like 4months ago haha

[Lukezen27]

I do have LSD Luke LOL i got that done like 4months ago haha

Sweet

So why no 1/4 times?

Made a big diff yeah?

[VTi_b0i]

lol TBH not really much difference, still bugger all traction, but now u can feel its TRYING to grab traction. you can FEEL both wheels spinning. i havent gone to the drags yet cause i am tracking down 5lug rims and tyres for my conversion. My tyres are fcuked and no point getting new tyres on these rims when theyl be coming off haha that and i work night shift so i needa get the nyt off to come, and ive been pretty broke lately haha

[Phased]

The reason why the 0w40 is more expensive is to achieve a 0w40 weight (mainly 0w) that meets API/ACEA standards etc. you have to use a larger amount (if not 100%) of PAO/Ester/Diester(Group IV/V) base stocks, you will rarely see a Hydro-Processed(Hydro-Cracked) 0 weight oil, not a good one anyway.

Personally I wouldn't be using a 0 weight in a turbocharged car, particularly one that wasn't engineered to be turbocharged. 0 Weight oils are better suited to climates the majority of Australia rarely see's (Below 0 Deg.C).

It does largely come down to what you want to achieve and how deep your pockets are.

Consider:
- You have built a car to produce far more horsepower than what the original engine was designed for thus added load, temperature (especially considering turbo's recycle air which creates added heat) and stress.
- Your goal Oil Change intervals (do you drive this car often?)

Attributes that I would be comparing first when looking for an oil that would suit your setup...

- Noack Volatility (% Weight loss at high temperatures)
- Wear Tests (Self Explanatory)
- Flash Point (Temperature at which the oil ignites/burns)
- Total Base Number (Resistance to Acidity and Other harmful contaminates)

I would recommend any Group IV oil for daily driving and Group V oil for track work... (Group IV: AMSoil 10w40 | Group V: Royal Purple 10w40, Redline 10w40, Motul 300V 10w40)

I'm not a fan of "Extended drain intervals" as although oils may be better than others, it doesn't change the effect of contaminates from intake air, combustion deposits etc. Although some oils resist contaminates better than others (referring back to TBN).

I'm currently waiting for Oil Analysis back for Comparing Royal Purple 5w30 to AMSOIL 5w30 and also once I've finished with my current Castrol Edge 5w30. (Basically I'm Comparing Group III, IV and V.)

Also NEVER underestimate the effect of a good oil filter. I personally use AMSOIL Ea which are fully synthetic however the K&N, Purolator PureOne and Mobil1 Semi-Synthetics are quite good too. You don't want to see a Ryco (torn apart) even before use, trust me!

If your willing to spend the extra money for a better oil, go for it. In my opinion and research I have found you are better off with a Group III oil with a good Oil filter and 5k change intervals than a more expensive oil with a OEM/Ryco Filter. However nothing goes past a good oil, filter and short OCI's ;).

/rant

[lookingforboost]

have you done any tests with the nulon oils yet? and you say the Purolator PureOne oilo filters are better then the ryco ones?

[Phased]

have you done any tests with the nulon oils yet? and you say the Purolator PureOne oilo filters are better then the ryco ones?

I haven't had any experience with Nulon to be honest. I can't seem to get onto their website (as it seems that it has been hacked). Although I have no factual basis to this I would assume that it would be a Group III oil (Hydro-Processed), I doubt Australia has the ability/demand to produce a PAO/Ester Synthetic oil. I could be wrong. If they are a group IV I would be surprised and interested, their pricing seems to be quite fair.

The Purolator PUREONE filters are Semi-Synthetic (Fibreglass and Cellulose) last I heard. I have a friend that used them on his LS1 for a while however I never knew where he purchased them from. In filter analysis (results I didn't actually see first hand, as it was done in Queensland) they come out above the average brands that just use cellulose(paper) filter media.

[kccord]

Phased, very keen to hear from you back about the oil analysis. Cheers.

[Phased]

Phased, very keen to hear from you back about the oil analysis. Cheers.

Will do. It will be a few months yet, as I'm not going to send the samples off until I get a sample from my current oil. (Castrol Edge 5w30). I'm very interested to see the results. My main point is to compare a synthetic (PAO Group IV/Ester Group V) with a Group III Mineral Hydro-Processed to see how much a PAO differs if you extend the drain intervals to make the extra cost worth it.

When I say extended drain intervals I refer to a 7.5k(up to 10,000kms) Interval with PAO and 5k with a Group III. I will be switching back to Amsoil if it still performs better than Castrol Edge at the end of 7.5k. I have a feeling that the Castrol Edge changed at 5,000kms may be close/possibly better than changing a PAO (AMSOIL) at 10,000kms.