H22a-hsb/b20vtec or Kseries (20 or 24) conversion into ej8 civic coupe

[blabla]

Hi Guys,

I would like to know what the pros and cons would be for these conversions H22a-h2b/b20vtec or Kseries (20 or 24) conversion into ej8 civic coupe keeping in mind i would like to keep p/s and a/c.

[4age8u]

K is balla b is budget lol

[defect]

H2b can't use factory ac bracket for ac, no ps aswell. H2b kits has to be bought from states too.
B is pretty straight forward swap. Can keep ps n ac.
K is expensive, ballers only or keen fellas who like to eat mi goreng everyday lol

[jeffreymui]

i recken keep whatever u have now, or just chuck a b18C7 :P

[GSi_PSi]

B20VTEC -
Pro's
For power it makes is bang for buck, if built properly can make some decent power up to 150-160kw when built all motor , Is the easiest to swap into a Honda as it is a B series , Great aftermarket support, Can run both P/S and A/C without issues, Classic VTEC engagement
Con's
Cylinder walls are claimed to be weaker than other B series, Might have some issues if not built properly as block is needed to be upgraded to make up for the vtec. IE cooling system etc


K20-24 -
Pro's
Better technology (i-vtec ), Makes the most power up to 180-200kw when built all motor, Can keep both AC/PS, good Aftermarket support
Con's
Expensive really thats bout the only thing holding people back, hard to swap into some cars, Might have clearance issues depending on car,ie Hood clearance, sump clearance

H22A/H2B
Pro's
Makes very good torque/hp , engine itself is quite cheap, can be built to rival K series as shown in the US ie NAH2B 323hp 10sec pass civic
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2678353
Aftermarket support has blossomed ie H2B kits, harnesses, headers etc. Classic VTEC engagement
Con's
Might have clearance issues, ie Bonnet. AC/PS might not be available depending on car or header used. If gearbox is not converted to b Series- h22a gearing is quite long, Engine is heaviest out of all , maybe hard to swap into some cars

In conclusion if you got the money go for KSeries, if you have less money for K but still want power go H2B, if you want a simple swap,cheap and on a budget go B20VTEC

[SHI-FTY]

if ur after Hseries There is no room for the power steering section to remain on the crank pulley. People with dc and ek chassis' have to shave the powersteering groove off the pulley. As a matter of fact, any h2b peeps must have that shaved off. unless u cut into your frame rail which alot of people do anyway and then weld a plate inside of it giving you room to leave that groove on.

Other than that, another option would be to run it off the same belt as the alternator. But that would require a custom powersteering pump bracket. It would need to be moved inwards toward the headers about an inch or so.

another thing u will want to do is switch the factory alternator/tensioner bracket kit out of the h22 to a custom relocation kit which u will need to buy (few places i think not too sure tho quater sports make them and explict speed performance make them jst google to check em out if u r serious) this will save weight n free up space that with a combination of a D series alternator, Y? it is smaller and lighter, smaller pulley, smaller belt, 3 ribbed instead of 6 has less drag. that n also removal of balance shafts with a freeze plug that u got to buy as well

finally u might have issues with your bonnet (hood clearance) and it will need spacing with washers especially for h2b swaps, i no ek civics only dnt have this prob. dnt no if ur car is the same as ek tho

dats as much as i no about issues with the h swap but u want to do this only if u intend on drag racing, a H in a civic IMO is not a circuit car, and if u r a h2b boy the kits for these swaps are ment for drag use only but on the bright side u got ur self a 2.2l vtec with a closer ratio b series box combined with lsd is perfect if u cant go mad $$ on a Kswap

hope i havent turned u off but ive been lookin at doin the h2b swap myself for quite awhile n still keen on it!

[SHI-FTY]

woops im slow sorry if i repeated some of wat gsi psi said!

[Benson]

If you know where to shop, a K-series powerplant is relatively affortable.

Remember with the Kswap, you'll get I/H/ECU (Kpro). While with most B swaps, they all go for standard then slowly pour the rest of the money (even more) to make it as quick as the Kswaps.

[paps02]

in ej8 with H swap use hasport mounts = no bonnet clearance problems but youl have scraping problems with ur headers on gutters and speed bumps, u cant dump ur car.

swap will cost anywhere from 5k and up depending how hard u wana go.. gears arnt great for dragging hence the h2b swap came along. that will be more expensive than a H swap + u goto search for more parts = too big a headache..

then thers k swap...... if u want a type r aswell then k20 = 20k!!

[mr180sx]

It all comes down to who you know and where to source parts from. If you know the right person and know where to shop you can save alot of money.:thumbsup:

As Benson said, k series is affordable if you know where to shop!

[simonnowis]

to put it simply how much time and money are you planning to put in? how long do to expect to keep the car?

I backed out of a h2b conversion because it would make the car more of a project/weekend car rather than a run around car,plus the total costs including getting it legally on the road is over the cost of a b20vtec which really is bang for buck.

[TheSaint]

roughly how much does it cost to do a B20 swap?

i have these 'rough' figures in my head already (2010 prices - DIY install)
- B16 (VTIR) into EG/EK, $2000-$2500 for engine than an extra $1000 for parts and fitting
- B18c (VTIR/GSR) into EG/EK, $2500-$3500 for engine than extra $1000 for parts and fitting
- B18cR (ITR) into EG/EK, $3000-$5500 (depending on type and source) for engine than at least $2000 in supporting parts/mods
- K20 (ITR) into EG/EK, $5000-$10000 (depending on type and source) for engine than at least $2000-$3000 in supporting parts/mods

and it goes on ... but because the B20 vtec isnt a factory build, how much does it cost to build the engine? and is there any major difference between these and another B swap

im starting to consider this as it would be nice to clean down and build an engine from scrach in the garage and work on it slowly peice by peice than finally install it into a car later on

sorry if this has already been covered

[dougie_504]

What do you want from your car? Drag racing? Track racing?

[B16bcivic]

b20 swap = 15k straight fully built all motor.
b16 - 3k to 4k tops stock
b18cr - 7.5 easy stock
k20a - 15 easy stock straight swap stock.
h2b - 5 to 6.5k easy stock. <----------- Best deal and best buy for power use, drag and track. 13 sec motor with a few mods to it.

Ive done these conversions before went through all these engines and thats what cost me. want to know more i will direct you to the guy who does the conversion.

[GSi_PSi]

15K for fully built b20? what specs?> what output?....
i think somebody got jipped hard.
H2B for 6.5k only>? Including Engine, B series GBOX, Conversion harness, Install, Wiring Loom, Engine mounts, H2B adapter plate and mounts.. wow

[Gio]

roughly how much does it cost to do a B20 swap?

i have these 'rough' figures in my head already (2010 prices - DIY install)
- B16 (VTIR) into EG/EK, $2000-$2500 for engine than an extra $1000 for parts and fitting
- B18c (VTIR/GSR) into EG/EK, $2500-$3500 for engine than extra $1000 for parts and fitting
- B18cR (ITR) into EG/EK, $4000 - $6000 (depending on type and source) for engine than at least $2000 in supporting parts/mods
- K20 (ITR) into EG/EK, $8000> (depending on type and source) for engine than at least $2000-$3000 in supporting parts/mods

and it goes on ... but because the B20 vtec isnt a factory build, how much does it cost to build the engine? and is there any major difference between these and another B swap

im starting to consider this as it would be nice to clean down and build an engine from scrach in the garage and work on it slowly peice by peice than finally install it into a car later on

sorry if this has already been covered

Just made a few changes to what i have seen lately.

[B16bcivic]

B20 VTEC V3 Set-up

Engine Specification

Block
B20b8 CRV late model block
84mm RS machine Cast ITR spec pistons, New rings
STD rods notched for ITR/GSR bearings
Golden eagle head studs
ARP Rod bolts
ACL Race bearings
Micropolished Crank
Block line honed with ITR/GSR main cap girdle *exchanged
ITR pickup and sump *exchange
OEM seals & gaskets
Custom breather holes made from the block to catch cans

Head
Dynodave custom ported head
Supertech valves
Supertech retainers
Supertech valve springs
Rocket Motorsport valve job
Rocket M22x Camshafts
Skunk2 Pro-series intake manifold with ported runners and opening to match T/B
68mm Power Professional Throttle Body
Custom intake with BLOX velocity stack and filter combo
New OEM Seals and gaskets



Extra Accessories Included
RC 370CC
Hondata s200 *swap for the Power FC
Dynodave tune
Catch Can Set-up
Innovative billet mounts
Labour (take out old engine, put in new engine)
Engine service (new oil, spark plugs, new gearbox oil, new spark leads, new coolant)
Toda headers used 4-2-1 race version
Fix up exhaust

Mugen thermostat and fan switch
Total

Using from the old set-up
s4c b16a gearbox
Driveshafts
Other accessories i.e alternator, wiring loom etc
Toda Cam Gear


that was the set up

[SHI-FTY]

B20 VTEC V3 Set-up

Engine Specification

Block
B20b8 CRV late model block
84mm RS machine Cast ITR spec pistons, New rings
STD rods notched for ITR/GSR bearings
Golden eagle head studs
ARP Rod bolts
ACL Race bearings
Micropolished Crank
Block line honed with ITR/GSR main cap girdle *exchanged
ITR pickup and sump *exchange
OEM seals & gaskets
Custom breather holes made from the block to catch cans

Head
Dynodave custom ported head
Supertech valves
Supertech retainers
Supertech valve springs
Rocket Motorsport valve job
Rocket M22x Camshafts
Skunk2 Pro-series intake manifold with ported runners and opening to match T/B
68mm Power Professional Throttle Body
Custom intake with BLOX velocity stack and filter combo
New OEM Seals and gaskets



Extra Accessories Included
RC 370CC
Hondata s200 *swap for the Power FC
Dynodave tune
Catch Can Set-up
Innovative billet mounts
Labour (take out old engine, put in new engine)
Engine service (new oil, spark plugs, new gearbox oil, new spark leads, new coolant)
Toda headers used 4-2-1 race version
Fix up exhaust

Mugen thermostat and fan switch
Total

Using from the old set-up
s4c b16a gearbox
Driveshafts
Other accessories i.e alternator, wiring loom etc
Toda Cam Gear


that was the set up

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/12sec-Honda-all-Motor-t224233.html
this looks like the real build

[B16bcivic]

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/12sec-Honda-all-Motor-t224233.html
this looks like the real build

thats my old car lol. thats my car i sold it lol.

[B16bcivic]

Man Imma so buy the car back. thnx for the link hahaha i was looking for it if the guy was selling it. the motor itself costed 14.5.